Because the 56 originally had a single chamber master cylinder, the brake lines wrap around the car from front left to right, then to the back and right to left across the rear-end. So the conversion kits follow that same path to leave the back end stock.
It is when you have to bend the tubing away from the car and then have to corkscrew and snake the line through an obstacle course! You have my sympathy!
One more component of the car completed. I used to do a fair amount of custom built air and nitrogen line systems. I always enjoyed the build and found it to be very relaxing. The fuel and brake lines look great. Great update on project you have made on the car.
I can't wait to see this car completed....it takes me close to 2 years to do a project now with work/life....I made videos along the way on my current 88 toyota truck I have been working on. Another month and it should be complete and I want to start releasing videos once a week or so. I get the itch every time I watch one of your videos....its so fun to watch....great job....
I've watched this video several times. Not sure yet where I want my fuel lines and brake lines. My car was a V8 car from the factory, and my fuel lines and brake lines run on the inside of the frame using a dual purpose frame clip. Never had an issue with heat from exhaust in the past. Of course I have a 427 with Hooker headers, and had a local muffler shop run my exhaust straight to the rear bumper. But I sure do like the rubber/metal clips and self tapping screws! :)
If it's not going to be a concourse restoration, I would focus more on making it clean, tidy and keeping with your "style." Next to that, I'd stick with cost effectiveness. I could have bought reproduction clips for about 10 times what I paid for those. But if you've got them, reuse what you have. And there is a comment here about line diameter. I have a very small pump and minimal fuel demand for being a V8. 5/16 is plenty for me.
Hi Bill, just a thought. Just because you can, i would put an inline fuel filter to the electric fuel pump from the tank. i know you will have a filter before the carb , but i would still put a replaceable filter before the pump. That way you wont have any fuel pump clogging issues in the future. Just thinking out loud.
I had a Mallory canister fuel filter on the frame rail before that I elected to not put back. Whoever built Christine back in the 90s put a fuel system on it that would make a big block blush. All that, and smog heads. SMH. I decided against the big Mallory part but do plan to insert one right at the fuel pump like you suggest.
Yes! It's a musically tuned chime that hangs about 8 feet from the front of the garage. Sometimes the wind is too much durung my videos and it clatters so loudly that I take it down just to shoot footage. Glad you like it!
I kept my lines on the inside so you can't see them....one thing about electric pumps they say they don't suck they push fuel...therefore your better off as close to the tank as possible...gravity fed..but I spose it depends on the type of pump....a lot of times they put them on with a relay to the oil pressure sender incase of a roll over or accident when the engine stops so does the pump...still waiting to see it on the frame and doors fitted to see how much tweeking there is if any.... keep pluggin away
It's going to be set up similarly to the way it was before. The pump is in the same position, just on the opposite frame rail. One thing that I WILL do is put in a safety switch like you've mentioned. I found one that is electronic and has a 3 second delay to allow the pump to prime the carb. It's only 60 bucks.
