In this video, I install a Transgo shift kit into the E4od that i'm rebuilding. I go through the installation from beginning to end, I install this kit on everyone I rebuild, great product. Thanks for watching and hope everyone is safe.
I've always really respected Gil Younger, shame that he has passed away. The products he designed were second to none! I've at a bare minimum used his "No YoYo" kits in every unit I've ever built. The Trans Go HD2 or HD2 Tugger kit in the E4OD/4R100 absolutely transform that transmission from a slush box that slides through the gears to a top notch crisp unit.
Also just sharing,,you may or not already know::: To get 4 plates into the intermediate clutch of an e4od or 4r100::: Use the 4r100 intermediate pressure plate and use 4 of the e4od intermediate .080 steels,,I just use the factory style 02 up high energy frictions. I actually only use factory frictions in all my performance rebuilds as they will outlast any aftermarket friction in mileage. To go from 3 plates to 5 on the intermediate of a torqshift,,, The diesels stock have a 3 plate intermediate... The v10 stock has a 4 plate intermediate,, Use the v10 pressure plate and 5 e4od intermediate .080 steels. I learned that from my customer buying a alto 3 pack of power packs for his torqshift and it was a mixture of stock parts for intermediate.
Hello,,first just wanted to say that I appreciate your videos and knowledge,,to start let me tell you that I am a ford only transmission specialist,,every trans I rebuild that has that aftermarket 3 or 4 springs in the outer accumulator,,they are usually broken,,,that being said,,I always throw that stuff out and put the factory blue or white springs back in,,,when I do a shift kit it costs me zero dollars,,,what I do is i bought a little lathe at harbour freight and I use it to machine/cut grooves into the factory lower circuit accumulator valves,,,basically I copy the Sonnax design,,then I was given years ago several hundred of the f150 lightning line modulator/accumulator regulator valve and sleeve assembly,,it measures .400 where the stock valve is .326 if I remember correctly,,, So to recap;; I replace the line mod valve and machine the 3 lower circuit accumulator valves.
While I saw you drilling the separator plate,,I thought I would add my 2 cents::: The 3 smallest holes at the top of the plate are for the accumulator feed holes,,you can open them up slightly also
I replace the center support on every rebuild,,,I use the one that is machined .050 and uses a snap ring for it to sit on Also just say::: I reuse every e4od/4r100 solenoid body regardless of metal contamination,,and have never had a problem,,,they are bullet proof,, The only years you have to watch out for is,,2002 would set multiple tcc solenoid codes,,,I resolder that year. Then watch out for the original 89 and 90 solenoid pack as the epc can fail those years,,it will start dropping line pressure as it gets hot. Otherwise I never replace a solenoid body,,I reuse every single one!!!!!
@@GaryFerraro I live in New Port Richey fla,, I worked at Ford dealerships from 94-05,,I work for my self,,I'm the Ford only specialist.. Not on Facebook much,,never heard of that. But I will look it up. Where are you
Hey Gary I could use some input on an issue with my 4r100. It a 2002 f350 7.3 with of course a 4r100. I'm second owner first owner took good care of the truck. But he developed and issue with the trans way before I bought it. Let me give you some back ground. If you jump in the truck when its cold. Say in the morning. Drop it into drive. ENGAGES into D without a problem. Once the trucks driving and trans it warmed up. If you put it in P, N, or R then put it back into D a lot of times, more often than not, it doesn't want to ENGAGE. The easiest way to get it to ENGAGE for me is to drop it into 1st (I'm assuming it raises line pressure) then it will usually ENGAGE without issues, and then occasionally when you do drop it into first and it doesn't ENGAGE, a tap of the gas pedal helps it ENGAGE. This can also be done in D to ENGAGE but its definitely less stressful to do it while in 1st. The previous owner has had this issue for sometime before I bought the truck. He said he knew one other owner of a truck with 4r100 that had this same issue and has been doing the same tactic to get ENGAGEMENT, just like I have. I plan on dropping the pan this weekend and inspecting whats in the pan (hopefully nothing) and the valve body bolts to see if any are loose and also dropping the valve body to check the bolts above it as well. I have heard some people have had them back out and cause this issue of ENGAGEMENT. I've also heard other things causing this issue, but I'm going to hope for the best. Im a very experienced tech and would have no problem rebuilding this trans if so is needed. But I'd definitely love to hear some input from you if possible. Vinny M.
Trans Go website is a great resource. They make this kit which is the shift kit, they also make a HD2 kit and a HD2 Tugger kit. Great description of each on the website.
Hi Gary, I have a 2003, Ford, 5.4L truck w/a 4R100. Rockauto shows a Transgo, SKE4OD shift kit for E4OD and 4R100 and the Rockauto price is $56.79. Rockauto also lists a Transgo E4ODHD2 Reprogramming kit ($85.79) for E4OD and 4R00. Please, do you recommend the standard shift kit (about $57.00) or the Reprogramming kit? Also, please do you recommend the 4R100LU, PWM valve assembly? If so, do I need to get a heavy-duty torque converter, or will a stock, re-man torque converter suffice? Thanks from east/central AZ.
@@GaryFerraro Good morning Gary, yes, the 4R100LU PWM Valve Assembly is also a Transgo product. I use the truck (F150 7700) as daily driver, to collect my winter firewood supply, trailer my Jeep CJ three or four times a year, and to trailer my tractor once or twice a year. The tractor and trailer is the heaviest load (about 8,300 lbs.). The Jeep and trailer is only about 4,800 lbs. Thanks, Tim.
When these springs are doubled up does that cause a stiffer up shift. I just had my 4r100 rebuilt a week ago and this thing is bumping into all gears . i feel like im getting the run around here. I picked it up and it was low 4 quarts of fluid, bolts missing all over the place and the bypass tube is leaking.
Now when shifting its bumping into all gears .. Guy is giving me the run around that its the o2 sensors 😂😂.. I paod 4100 to fix a problem i still have . its not nearly as bad but it still bumps into gear and you can feel it pretty good.
@@GaryFerraro 2002 expedition 5.4 4x4. Original issue was it was slamming into gears 1-4. It would shift so hard it would jerk the truck pretty damn good. Original price was around 2700 but i went for a few upgrades inside the trans. Now with all the work done i still havs the issue. Even though its not as bad , its still noticeable and can still feel it pretty good.
Got a question just got thru rebuilding my brother’s e4od out of a 93 e150 cause he only had 3rd n reverse and he drove it like that for about two weeks well now it has all gears shifts good but engine stalls in reverse and also when I place shifter to 1st. It doesn’t happen every time tho seems to do it more in operating temperature please help. On rebuild I replace solenoid block with brand new one and brand new torque converter installed superior shift kit also. Thank you
got a question I have a 1996 F250 diesel with e40d. I was going up up a hill pulling a trailer weighting around 6000 pounds it shifted from 1st to 2nd I herd a pop sound and like a rattle ,like I lost the drive shaft but I didn't, got back in the truck when you put it in any gear there is nothing like its in neutral,what do you think happened .
Pull the dipstick out and check the fluid level, if it shows overfull, your pump is no good, if it reads correctly, may want to drop the pan and see if any metal is in there, since this happened suddenly, something either stripped or broke
