This trans Marshall is building is my trans for my 94 lightning,I tried to build this , and ran into some problems, the problem was I forgot two bearings so I reached out to Marshall and he was gracious enough to help me out not many people would do that, I’d like everyone to know that this trans is working perfect and it’s been a little over a year now and I don’t baby my truck and I don’t dog it I have fun with it. Thank you Marshall for helping me out
I feel guilty watching your videos. The information is classroom quality and those typically cost. THANK YOU! I am currently rebuilding a $5000 rebuild of a 4R100 that failed after 10,000 miles. I paid too much because I was scared of transmissions even though I have rebuilt many engines and rear ends. Your videos make the scarry part seem doable. Keep them coming I cannot get enough.
Thanks for the kind words ! Really appreciate that. You seem WILLING and FULLY capable to handle it. With a little guidance and a lot of patience you got this ! I hate hearing those type of stories where somebody pays that much and only lasted 10,000 miles. My main reason for doing these videos !Hopefully you got some really good upgraded parts for that price.
Thank you sir and those involved in these videos. I learned alot here. Using sand paper where needed, using loctite at times, paying attention to the work etc. My issue was with the bolts for the center support. The trans would shudder on take off in 1st as if driving on rumble strips. Thanks again.
That to me sounds like no line pressure rise . If it’s fine under light throttle but chatters under med heavy throttle it’s usually no line rise. Have to do a pressure check and see if the pressure rises with throttle pressure. 70 psi at idle and rises to 150 at full stall in drive. Is it chattering in reverse?
This is A well done video. The best part is explaining the trouble spots. I haven't done enough of this type of transmissions to know what's good or bad. When I'm hand sanding up parts. I enjoy watching these type of videos. I've watched 100's of these type of videos. This hands down THE BEST I've ever seen. This could used in how to make "An assembly video" WELL DONE NICE VIDEO!!!
Marshall Thank you, thank you, thank you for sharing these videos. You have captured year,and years of your knowledge on film. Thanks so much for your dedication of teaching us the right way of building this transmission.
I fully understand the concerns of wanting a parts list! Problem is depending on the type of build/ how bad the trans is/ what upgrades your going to do etc. it is very difficult to put a parts list together until the transmission is torn down and specifically order parts for your particular rebuild.
Thank you so much for responding! I must have watched this series 30 times. I've learned a ton and feel incredibly confident that I could do this... Of course thanks to you! I understand that they will all be different and I'm seriously thinking this trans has serious problems with that being said, I was looking at the rebuild kit in general. Each piece will be inspected as per your instruction and purchased accordingly. Did you purchase a bearing kit? Whatever it takes here in Cincy are saying they can't get Borg Warner clutches. Who did you get the kit from? Did you get the zip kit for the valve bodies? Or is there a lot that has all of those in one? A master kit? I have researched but I get myself so confused at times afraid that I will be double purchasing which I really don't want to do! I'm sure you understand. Super great instruction Marshall! I'm wanting to video my experience so I'll keep you posted. Don't worry I won't move my cheese! I can't wait to start these transmissions! (Have two)!!!!?
@@mebusy2280 Good Morning, I got my kit from Whatever it Takes as well but back then they could get them. Maybe just Google Borg Warner clutches as everything is hit and miss nowadays. You can buy just the seal and gasket kit separate and find the clutches as a stand alone pack if you can find them. Possibly Transtar. I didn't buy a whole bearing kit but you can if it is really bad. I would highly recommend putting a Transgo "Tugger" kit in there. It comes complete, not nearly as complicated as the Sonnax stuff and is better for towing or heavy hauling. Its hard to beat the Transgo kit. Good luck finding the parts keep us updated on your progress. Thanks for the comment
@@mebusy2280it’s actually not an upgrade. Just a .320 pressure plate and 3 stock steels and 3 stock clutches. Many earlier models came with 2 overdrive clutches.
I have been watching your E4OD videos. I'm a retired ASE master mechanic. I was the transmission man at a Nissan dealership in the 80s. I'm doing a E4OD from my RV with OD sprag and planetary failure due to a clogged oil passage in the pump stator. There is a spring and check valve and an orfice plug. What is the purpose of that valve? Your videos are excellent. Thanks
That valve/spring/cup plug is super important! It is the lube oil for the O/D planet assembly. It is in the converter charge/cooler circuit so it needs to be valved to prevent converter drainback issues instead of it just being an open orifice. The aftermarket companies sells an aluminum valve to replace the plastic one that can melt shut in Heavy Duty situations like yours. I talk about it all in a few of my videos not sure which ones but most likely the pump build video or the “Transgo Tugger Install” video. I remember the RE4F01A and the RE4R01A transmissions built a ton of those units back in the day. We called the R01A the Buck Rogers unit because it was so different the first time we saw it, Boy we sure didn't know what we were in for with all the newer units that succeeded it. Great question thanks for the Comment.
Like all your videos always something to learn, that Low reverse return spring is what that tugger kit had me do if you think it needs to have all the springs in that’s fine with me , as far as the pump goes I bought that pump from shiftrite it’s supposed to be a f8 pump I hope I didn’t screw that up , the tugger kit had me do some drilling on it , now the one valve that gets updated from plastic to steel had already been done by shiftrite , looking forward to that video as well, thank you for the detail you have shown in these videos , like I said before ,you are the e40d 4r100 wizard what ever you think is fine with me. Rick
All good man we’ll see, I didn’t see that in the Tugger kit I printed out online. I will look for a different set of instructions.It’s fine to have those springs out in all scenarios except drag racing. The Tugger kit is mainly H/D towing. We’ll see but the pump you didn’t do anything wrong but the steel stator had a crack in it I missed. I got a new pump body and gears and they sent me a whole pump but the stator body they sent me was dropped and it was cracked. So I went to transfer the good stator to to the good stator-body and the fitment wasn’t right . No worries I got it worked out and nothing I haven’t been through before.
@@marshallsanders5672 Marshall I’m so looking forward to helping you and Marshall make his El Camino look Beautiful , I’m so thankful my lightning will finally have the perfect transmission it deserves, your attention to detail is epic, I will do everything I can to make sure I give the same attention to detail on the El Camino
Marshall, I notice there are two different styles of sun shell, the type you are installing here seems to be the 'second design', which has different notches in it from what I typically see. Do u think I am gonna be wearin a frown on account a some different interface with the direct drum? My old sun shell was cracked around the sun gear. Anyway, yer vidjas hav been a great help so far. First auto trans I rebuilt in like 30 years. Thanks for everything!
No worries the sunshell you put in is just the updated one it will work in all E4OD’s/4R100’s. It was designed to keep the forward drum away from the direct drum and not use the thrust washer between the two drums if that makes sense! I just leave the thrust washer in anyway. The biggest thing is when the transmission is assembled that the front and rear unit endplay is correct. I show this in my video about checking endplays.
Ok I’m not completely following what your saying do you mean into the coast clutch drum ? If so pull that section out and see if the pump drops in with no guts and no d-ring ! Possibly the two pump halves are not aligned properly and the pump just won’t go into the case. Is the pump hanging up on the bushing or is the bushing pressed in Exactly where it’s supposed to be. Or are you talking about something completely different in saying input drum ?
Yea my transmission had a hard 2-3 shift it whould stay in 2nd to much and then it did feel like it was binding in 2 and take awhile to shift if you have lots of hills it never shifts on time
Yes Sir It goes into the center support and comes out to lube direct drum bushings and front planetary gear and bearing. I talk about it in one of my videos where I air check everything one more time, I’ve gotten a lot of questions on that!
Mr Sanders if you get this. Does the low reverse clutch pack have a wavey cushion plate for 93 I6 models? Greatly appreciative if you can give some insight, Thank you.
I believe that year does have a wave plate “factory”. With that said it can be stacked with or without the wave plate. Meaning as long as you get the proper clearance it doesn’t matter. .040 thousandths is what I like to see for clearance on that clutch a little looser is fine but over .055 and you start seeing a delayed reverse engagement. As a rule of thumb on any H/D or performance application I always remove the wave plate anyway. Reason being is the clutch releases quicker on a manual upshift if the wave is not in there preventing momentary binding as it makes a 1-2 shift. Hope this helps.
Thanks for answering all my questions I have another one, I’m looking for a .180 pressure plate but I have 2 .090 steels could I stack those two together instead of getting a .180 pressure plate?
Unfortunately no that won’t work. Any pressure plate has to be one solid plate because of the forces placed on it by the clutches/hydraulic pressure. If it’s just 2 steels they will flex to much and you’ll loose a solid clamp of the whole clutch pack causing them to fail prematurely. I won’t use any plate that’s 1/8” or thinner. Anything under that has caused me problems and Ive tried.
Yep it’s crazy ! I have used WIT “whatever it takes” transmission parts, “Transtar” , or PA Cargo for 90% of my parts the last 10 yrs. It is so hit and miss these days but these 3 have generally come through for me. Most of the Seal and gasket kits out there are TransTec no matter who you buy from and are high quality. I personally would just specify you want “Borg Warner” clutches and you should be good to go unless your looking for a more performance style clutch. Most bushing kits are the same as well especially with the 3 companies I just described. Hope this helps ! Just be careful not to get ripped off for your parts because there is a lot of gouging going on these days with many other companies !
Thanks Marshal. I have another problem. I have tried to put the guts in 5 times now and still run into no clearance for the pump? I have followed the video. I am licensed mechanic. I have built lots of chev trans. but this e4od is a headache , for me. can you suggest anything I am missing?
Gary, Interesting issue there. I'm assuming your telling me the pump won't go into the case and bottom out ? I have never had an issue with that endplay unless I did something wrong but that doesn't matter at this point. I'm assuming you tore it apart so it was fine then, I would say it comes down to what parts did you change in the O/D section. A bearing in backwards or your coast clutches are not all the way splined into the O/D hub I have seen that a few times. If you notice in my video I put the whole O/D section in at once with the input shaft just for that very reason. Also make sure the inner ramp/race for the O/D roller clutch isn't upside down that would cause it as well. If it is the roller clutch will spin backwards as well. Let me know this shouldn't be to hard to figure out !
I gave you my email in one of the comments overdriven67@hotmail.com Just send pics of the O/D section apart. O/D hub and bearing installed,O/D planet with bearing installed, thrust washer, O/D roller clutch together, O/D sungear on coast clutch drum together and pump.
Gotha sounds like you still don't have any endplay in the O/D section, what did you find with that ? I would put the pump upside down on a bench in something cylindrical and build the O/D section onto the pump to see if you notice a problem. feel free to send me pics of anything.
Any regular parts place your getting your parts from should have that as a direct replacement for V-8/diesel O/D pressure plate. Just specify you want the .320”plate 3 clutch as opposed to the .490” 2 clutch plate if that makes sense !
I have a question I have a 1993 E250 with shifting problems It's not downshifting to first gear was told shift solenoid, had changed out. Still tries to take off in 3rd. Can manual shift to 1 but puts a strain on motor and dies. I'm a mechanic and has rebuilt a few chevy transmission. But not familiar with Ford e40d transmission
Henry, Interesting problem. I would make sure there is 12v at two terminals at the harness connector going down to the transmission with the Key On. 1 12v is for EPC Sol. and 1 to power ALL the rest of the shifting Solenoids. If there is power than its either the solenoid control wires with a problem or something internal to the transmission. The only way for a Automatic transmission to stall the engine is if the Torque Converter Clutch is applying at Idle that is a red flag as well. I've seen many times where the filter fell out of the pump and causes stalling like that. If the filter is fine there is most likely something wrong internally inside the transmission in the TCC hydraulic circuit. Need to check for trouble codes first to see if the computer is seeing any problems and go from there.
Do a line pressure check and see if it is stuck high! Line pressure should be around 70psi at idle and go up the more you hit the throttle. Need to determine if it’s a pressure problem or something in the accumulator valvebody causing harsh shifts
No usually there pretty specific in the depth they have to be pressed In depending on the bushing itself. The biggest thing to remember is that when pressed in they don’t block any lube holes respective to its mating shaft/support etc. They generally can be .020 +- but they are specific to depth!
I appreciate the response is there a bushing driver set you know of with a ridge to get it dead nuts every time or is it a feeler guage over the top kind of thing?
There are bushing drivers that are stepped I use that work well but they are universal and not specific to E4OD so you have to judge the depth on a bushing by bushing basis. As I was saying before +or- .020 or so is generally fine and when I want it dead nuts I usually mic the depth with a digital caliper before I remove the old one and press the new one in exactly where the old one was. That works well.
I was wondering if the pump and output shaft seals of E4OD and 4R100 transmissions are similar to the AOD \ 4R70W & 4R75W \ AODE (IN TERMS OF CASE AND OR DIAMETER..?)
4r70 torque converter worked great in my 4r100 I had engine issues and went back to the 4r100 converter and was worse but I got rid of that truck maybe I should of went with a new 4r100 converter idk someone did a shift kit and it didn't work right after
@@marshallsanders5672 4r70 is a transmission I used the torque converter from that transmission and had zero shutters but went back to the 4r100 and was not working right
Wow you taught me something new today ! I never knew they were physically interchangeable 🤔 ! Doesn’t make sense to me that the 4R100 didn’t work properly other than it just being a bad torque converter!
Oh geez ! You must be a young guy 😂! STP oil treatment, Not used much anymore but it comes in a blue bottle with white lettering. Just look up STP oil treatment and it will come up on google ! Very slippery and enables the seal installation much easier and safer than using any other LUBRICANT such as trans-gel to install pistons ,etc.
@@marshallsanders5672 I'm having an issue. after putting the pump, the input shaft doesn't turn, nor do i any videos that does. 2nd , when upgrading a steel overdrive planet, better to use the oringinal plactic than metal thrust washer?
@@gilbertorodriguez8847 it has to be able to turn with pliers otherwise the endplay in the O/D section is to tight. I show how to check the endplay in the "Loading the Guts into the Case video" something just isn't all the way seated Etc. I would use plastic when available just because it doesn't create any metal as it wears but either one will work.
