Thanks for the video. I recently disassembled my e50 and as I'm re-building the engine I am replacing the clutch with a 3-shoe clutch. This answers exactly how I am going to put it together again. I was not sure how much I should turn the springs (replacing the standard with some stiffys) but this video tells me how. Note: The 3 shoe clutch from treats doesn't have a slot for the woodruff key. I was told to remove the wooduff key for this. The bolt will need to be tight enough to clamp it down.
Travis, you have saved me so much time. I was going to adjust my clutch and just found out that it was really an air leak in the carb. I also have resurrected a 1977 Piaggio that was underwater for two months in the Missouri river floods of 2009. Without any prior experience I went for it and am happy to say its running. I've called it Poseidon, being Italian and waterborn. I'm working on a before and after video. thanks again
@willzer7968 Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it, it's proving to be a challenge getting everything just right, but I'm not giving up. The bike still runs great it just is still taking off at idle, in the meantime I've been whipping my Clinton moped around while I wait for my piston stop to arrive.
Garrett Bernhagen My money would be on one of two things. It could either be the nut that holds the clutch on, or (and this just happened to me a few weeks ago on another bike) it could be the circlip that holds the clutch bell on. Mine popped out of the groove on the crank and allowed the bell and clutch itself to have half an inch of wobble room. Thankfully it was caught early enough where it didn't do any permanent damage. Best of luck with yours!
Thanks for the information. It's been going on for some time now but I've been trying to ride at low speeds where the sound doesn't happen. So hopefully nothing bad has occurred since! I'll be opening up the side of the clutch to check it out when I get the chance. Just need a puller and piston stop to evaluate it thoroughly it seems. ):
instead of rope i used a section of cut electrical cable (extension cord). i figured it would still be a nice soft surface to stop the piston but would not risk fraying. worked well.
just a little tip. your engine runs really high on stationary. just tune it down a little. wheel spinning should stop after a while. btw you also have fluid-drag
Hey, I just wanted to let you know how much I love your videos. I have a 77 Maxi. My clutch went bad and I didn't have the money to bring it to the shop. Besides, I wanted it to be ready for the rally in Ypsi this weekend. I replaced mine with a 3 shoe clutch. And the only change between mine and your video, was that my new clutch had no slot for the woodruff key, so I had to remove mine. But I am an artist, not a mechanic by any means, and I changed my clutch with no incident.
Have fun with the No-Nos this weekend! I visited Michigan many times when I lived on the East Coast. And yep, nearly all aftermarket clutches do not have a slot for the woodruff key - happy riding!
ive found you often dont need to put pressure on the piston, put an old rachet on the nut and strike the handle at speed with an old wooden hammer handle or similar. The shock works like a soft air impact driver, it also works on the flywheel nut on mowers :-) I enjoyed my machine when i was 17, but i came from a poor family so you have to be creative, like using cardboard from cornflake packets for some gaskets. It does work if your carefull :-)
Travis your videos are invaluable, Thank you ! how did the Blue Springs work out ? I have the same model and color as yours but it's a 77... I'm upgrading soon to a three shoe clutch and wondering to go with a Treatland Super Stock or a Blue Spring edition. your insights are welcomed. It's a daily rider.
Travis, this is an old post but hoping you're still answering comments. I was just working on my old moped that was sitting in my garage. It was working before. Now, it is grabbing when I move it forward, like no neutral and engaging piston. I cleaned the carb and drained and replace the old gas and started right up (on stand). Since there is no neutral, it will stall when you press the brakes. You seemed very familiar with clutch. I was wondering if you can help give some pointers on what was wrong with it. Problem is I'm not sure what to fix. I saw several rebuild video and it helped me see how the clutch plate rotated freely when spinned but mine is tight, and will not spin if you hold its drum. It seems that the only way is to trim the clutch material, but I was hesitant to trim the clutch material since it was working before. How did the clutch material expanded that much being on storage? I tried adjusting the screws like you did but looking at, all it did is tighten the spring tension. UPDATE: FIXED!-for some reason the clutch material or the rubber stop pointing to the core expanded. I sanded the clutch pad just a bit. Smoothen the clutch cylinder where there are some line scratches (just made it kinda smooth). But most of my trimming is the rubber stopper the one pointing to the core (about a 2mm on each side), since it is not suppose the wear out not like the pad. Its function is just to prevent the clutch shoe from hitting the metal core. Also, i don't need the rope trick since I'm using an electric impact drive.
Hey Travis, really enjoyed the video. Question: I'm having some loud noises coming from inside my clutch cover. Is there something loose in there? When I'm going slow it doesn't make much noise, but when I get up to 22mph+ it really starts to whine and rattle. Any ideas? Thanks!
Thanks for the video everone, very nice info ,keep up the great work everyone ,awesome video, big congratulations ,hope you make pleanty more videos { ☆☆☆☆☆} .
Working on a 77 Puch Newport. When I pull the clutch lever in and crank the pedal it does not engage the engine. What is happening, I see the clutch arm move to what seems to be the full extent but nothing.
Well in case you still want an answer, I had this same problem. Silly as it is, you really just need to crank that cable. It only really engages right at the end. I use a pair of vice grips on the end on the other side of the knarp to really yank on it.
Theyre actually #3 pozidrive not phillips. You can tell by the 4 notch marks between each of the 4 larger points that resemble a phillips fastener. Thats why using a phillips rounds them out. 5 years later I know.
Hi Travis, I am running a similar setup and just ordered some blue springs. Did you get these to work properly on this setup? If so about how many turns were these set to?
"woodruff key, important" woodruff key not important. properly torqued on the woodruff key does absolutely nothing, so if you do lose it, it doesn't matter.
