Jason, another great DIY video! Thanks....Let me add a "non conventional" seat of the pants, shade tree fix. Remove the bearing seals & add high temp grease. These rollers fail due to "small amount of grease from the factory", which in their HOT environment, dries out over time. If the ball bearings & races are still good, you can grease them about every 30-40k miles. Just like changing oil in the engine to keep it running a long time. My local BMW Tech gave me this tip.
Lately when I replace tensioner pulleys with pins, I've started to save the pins. I use them when I have to remove/replace just belts later or on other cars. Not essential but it helps.
Love the video man! You do a great job with the camera work to show us the exact way you get your tools in there. Keep it up with the N54 maintenance videos
Been getting my E90 335 fixed up since being in storage for a while and your videos have really helped me out. I've been going through doing some preventative maintenance and preparing myself to change out the "common things" that happen with N54's and E90's like blower motor, water pump, belt/pulleys, coolant "straw" above fan, coolant hoses, etc. Some I have already changed out as problems occur, but some I am changing out before the problem. Thanks for the info and leaving your mistakes in.
Check your power steering pulley for chips that could be the reason for the belt...it's known fact that In Older e90s had a problem with the motor mounts when making hard turns the power steering pulley will touch the frame of the vehicle theres a fix for that by installing the 335iS motor mounts that solve that issue....and quite honest in the beginning of the video that engine sounded like a normal n54
Jason, I hope my comments aren't offensive, as I do not want to add anything to take away from your videos' You are great my friend & that is not my intent. Let me know if I'm out of line. With that said, your belt looks like it was "close to being digested" thru your front crank seal. You might want to install a 'seal guard' for another DIY video. I need to install one on our F15 N55.
Jason - you missed a pulley. The alternator pulley is not like the ones on older BMW’s. it is a special freewheel pulley, like the freewheel on a bicycle. That pulley should also be replaced. It can seize and cause the belt to fail. It can also make a roaring noise when it gets hot, if it is on the way out. I would replace it, if it is old. You will need to buy a special tool to remove the old alternator pulley. There are videos on RU-vid if you want to learn about it.
Super video again! I had belt issues as well (E46), replaced everything and then found out that the fan clutch was bad as well, causing too much load on the belt system. Do all manufacturers have such noisy and sensitive belt systems or is it just BMW ? :-)
The one I took off was also not ribbed -- the old one just looked ribbed because it had the impression of the belt rubber on it. This is the way this is designed from the factory. It's definitely strange.
Hey On the M62 X5 timing procedure. If the Vanos wasn't properly purged do you think that can cause a P0011 code AKA advanced timing bank 1. I replaced a intake cam on the passenger side idk so that could be an issue. I noticed the driver side vanos purged more than the passenger side. I first thought I went to hard with the driver side when purging it but evidently bank 1 is the code affected. All new guides, tensioners, and chains except the lower. I didn't do the lower. Any ideas what to look for or first things to check? BTW I got a vanos socket coming and gonna swap the solenoids to see if it shows up on bank 2 instead of bank 1. Advance timing from what I was told means the solenoid is either not getting oil/not working, timing chain is off, or vanos is clogged. I figured you of all people would be the guy to ask
Takes a while for youtube to finish processing the higher quality, but they did say all of that processing was done by the time I activated it. Strange.
hey i am wondering i finished my e46 ccv replacement but i noticed when trying to connect my lower ccv tube to the oil dipstick it just was not long enough i put some vaccum tube inside of it connect it to the oil dipstick but when i test drove it i noticed i was losing oil which im sure is from that but im not sure what i should do about this if anyone has any fixes or advice pls let me know
hey i am currently in the middle of my ccv replacement and i noticed when i got the intake off that i was completely missing the electric value and the non return value (black and white cords) i also noticed the vacuum line that came out of the electric value which i think connects to the air pump was just never there either and I'm not sure if i need to replace all of those or not i would appreciate any feedback
@@brandonlowdermilk7705 I didn’t have the check valve on my e46 325i either when I pulled the intake manifold. I think I just researched and realized it never did have one? Maybe it was only on 330i and up?