I'm a self taught how to do it all kind of guy. The sort of guy who should have been born in the 1950s, because I love to fix cars and build my own furniture and remodel my own house and generally all the things guys used to know how to do, and I'm going to show you guys how to do those things too. Because there ain't enough 50's kids in the world.
I have decided not to renew my old PO box as I didn't use it very much. Contact me directly if you want to send me something.
Guys I have to stop replying to car repair questions via email. I'm just getting too high a volume at this point to justify spending time on a reply that only 1 person will see. If you have a car repair question please post it in the comments section of the appropriate video so that everyone can see the reply and learn that solution. Please only contact me via email if you have a non-repair related matter. Thanks for understanding.
If you have an xdrive and you feel that jolt or clunk when slowing down, or when accelerating or going up hill or around corners please try changing your transfer case fluid first. That 100% fixed this issue for me (2006 325xi). Just an FYI.
But the Cat is passive is it not? Like a catalytic heater for example, as the heat coming up from the combustion chamber of the burning kerosene raises the temp of wire screen above the combustion chamber such that it glows red and burns off the noxious gases that pass through. Is this not the same principle with the auto Cat? It seems that the screen is defective in the sense that it can't get up to temp to glow and burn off the gasses. Apparently, the screen is platinum (or some other metal plated with platinum?). If the platinum only screen can't glow then it must be coated with some type of substance that adheres to it's surface and acts somewhat like an insulator. If the platinum/metal can't glow then is must be either coated with this substance or the platinum has flaked off. But what is the coating if there is one? Could this coating behave like glass or like ceramic? And what would dissolve It and/or should it be physically scrubbed? And what may cause it... Ethanol Fuel perhaps or water in fuel? Perhaps to solve this puzzle a sacrificial Cat should be cut lengthwise and dissected and components tested for analysis. But in the end, the "Industry" owes all of us an explanation.
If I run my drive cycle and finally get my OBD Scanner to show green, how long will have to take it to shop for emissions before the next cycle happens and computer runs selftest? For example I am afraid its green and suddenly right before the shop, it runs cycle and check engine light comes on? What is my time limit in this case?
I know this is 7 years old now but I just ran across it while searching for how-to videos on doing the same on my N55 engine (2012 X5 E70). I have high oil consumption and exhaust smoke after the engine is hot, then off and on every few minutes after. Sounds like valve stem seals are a strong suspect. Anyhoo - great video and your patience is something I strive for. If I'm you in that video, I'm dropping f-bombs all throughout.😄 It's interesting though, that I can't find one single video on replacing valve stem seals on an N55 but I'm guessing it's pretty close to what you're showing here.
Do you have experience with the 4.6 2 valve V8 in the 2008 Ford Econoline E250? It seems to only have a cylinder temperature head sensor and not a coolant temperature sensor on that header pipe like yours. My temperature guage is not working so I am wondering if that is why. I was given conflicting responses, some say there should not be a coolant temperature sensor and others say there should. Please help. Thank you.
On trailblazer SS racks I burn the center seal out. But I have now found that the center seals are never worn or hard. That said. Burning them out works but some racks like TB SS racks are glue bonded together so be careful. I am about to do my first e46 rack. I love that you showed how hard the center seals are to remove on all racks. You have the right tool. You just need to modify it. I saw what Detroit axle uses and it’s basically same bearing puller but it’s long. It’s a Kent Moore tool but you can just make those $40 ones work with some quick welding.
I am so glad I found this channel. Thank you. Very informative, did not leave out any detail, just bought a e46 and your channel is gonna make working on it a breeze. +1 sub
Just a heads up for any pre-lci guys. The OG LF20 has a better "sportier" steering feel than the updated LF30 pump. A bonus is not having to change out the line but roll of the dice on the shaft of the LF20.
If your immobiliser is not syncing or your key is a problem reset the whole system by unplugging both battery terminals. Touch the positive and negative together to discharge any residual charge in the system for 20 seconds. Leave the terminals off the battery no longer touching. Turn on the headlights to continue the discharge - of course no lights will come on but your aim is to reset the electronics entirely and drain any residual charge. After 15mins have passed, connect up the terminals to the battery don’t worry about the small spark when connecting the terminal. Get back inside the car and start the car up. This saved me walking 5miles home or calling emergency pickup. Credit to the BMW guy from England and his YT vids. He suggested it, I tried it and it worked.
As others have said, it's preferable to let the cleaner sit in place longer so it will dissolve the carbon. Once you start on a port, you should not rotate the engine until it's done, to be sure that nothing falls into the cylinder. If you're going to use walnut blasting, you're supposed to block off the PCV passage at the top of each intake port to prevent media from going up into the valve cover PCV passages, because it will end up back in the intake ports and go through your engine. You do this by inserting a feeler gauge between the valve cover and the top of the cylinder head.
Dealing with this right now with my 2001 Chevy Expess 3500. Came to the same conclusion, its much cheaper and easier to install an external check valve vs pulling the tank to install a whole new pump.
Years later on this comment but would it be easier to just remove the intake manifold bolts off and push the manifold back if you only have to do the front valve cover ?
Hello i have a BMW E39 540iA 1996/6 model. And i have two old OEM keys the rectangular ones. I went to a locksmith to get a new diamond key coded and it worked remote, but we couldnt find the EWS-module so i said i wanna see my local shop to ask them to find it for us. I then realized after going home that maybe EWS on 1996 is located at passanger glovebox. So he programmed the locking/unlock only for the new diamond key, then my 2 OEM keys stopped working. He said maybe go to BMW. Today i found this video so i tried re-syncing my OEM keys in the sequence and it WORKED wonderful so now my orginal keys working again. And the new diamond key remote stopped working. Could it be if they are in the same slot? Or why cant i re-sync the diamond key in sequence after my OEM keys
I think I have a bad dsc on a 2002 330i. I have a foxwell code reader which show a 5df5 error code. The dash has 3 lights, DSC, ABS and Brake. I drove it watching the speed sensors and they all tracked within 1 of each other. Most of the time all four read the same number. Sould I check anything else before buying a used DSC? The code reader shows it as an MK60.... I have appreciated your videos and expertise for several years now and thank you in advance for any advice you might have for me..
I have an x5 e53 3.0 i recently changed the ccv system and oil dipstick line that i ordered came short wont reach the dipstick tube insert point at all any suggestions to make an extension?
Hi Guys, thank you so much for making this videos. I have very weird problem on this no crank no start issue. Problem started when a screw that holds the bracket of airbag popped out and one side of airbag was loose. My car sometimes cranked and started right away and sometimes nothing… It was weird when it doesn’t cranked I turned the steering wheel at certain angle around 3 oclock and wiggle the steering wheel it cranked that happened while a screw was going around and touching something in there. I was driving for a while like this until I opened airbag and fixed the frame and tightened the screw. The car doesn’t crank at all at no angle like before! I changed the ignition switch nothing. I saw your video nothing related to steering wheel so please help me out what should I do right now. ** as I mentioned car started sometimes so battery is ok as I checked, starter is ok when it’s crank it starts in a second. Ground everything checked. No code for dme ews. Thanks in Advance
Ayo you're the man 50skid, just did wheel bearings and lower control arms, took me about 5 hours with a lot of sweat, I also live in a very moist rusty climate so that doesn't help either😂 but thx again, you made me overcome the fear of doing it myself❤ love
Amazing seeing a car and brake system without a toal enxrustment of RUST...servicing cars in the North East and Rustbelt is a whole different job...how nice itt would be to not deal with seazed, rusted nipples crimped rusty brake lines ..and the desasters from moving or losening a rust encased line..like they all are under an older Norhtern car...that was a joy to watch...tnx
Thnx for this video. I need to replace it on my e46 compact but i feel like you removed things that didnt need to be removed but now i got a idea how to replace it
Does anybody know if I can check the plug that plugs into this valve or solenoid for voltage to see if I have a bad plug while the car is running and if so how would I do that?
I seem to the 80s kid with my e46 330ci and N54 e91 335i lol Can you recode the e46 LCM in order to retrofit facelift LED tailights? I've had them sat in a box for over 1yr, not got round to exploring inpa/ista
