Tightened screws on the antenna mount, creates a large all metal coupling like a tuning fork with your antenna screwed in tight at the epicenter causing video noise. Loosen em' up and the noise will go away. Or find a way to soft mount the antenna into the mount.
Great vid with easy to follow instructions. You have made it very easy for me to buy one as I am homebound with keeping out the way of the COVID-19 that's going on at the moment. Would like to do an upgrade on the camera to a CCD "Any suggestions" & would like to use my Spektrum DX8e "any receivers recommended or make's" many thanks. :)
This flight controller is no slouchy crappy part. It has an on board lc filter and it provides clean video. Its the cleanest fc with osd i own. I have 5 fpv builds!
I saw this happen once too! In this video I put the big warning up to make sure the XT60 is connected correctly. It sucked for the guy. I checked all the connections for continuity and it all looked good, but the wires were backward and when he plugged it in, a few things let out magic smoke.
I am building this now, and may I ask, can I just plug my xm plus receiver into the port where you soldered your wires? I have a plug with my xm plus, so I was just guessing that on the other side of those solder pads is a plug outlet, that must correspond to those pads(ground, 5v, and sbus).
Hi travisGrindal. Thank you for this Video. I bought a Frsky R-XSR receiver for my Tyro99. There's one smartport cable on the rx. Could you tell me where to connect the smartport cable on the flight controller ? (I bought a few weeks ago a Radio Taranis QX7s + R-XSR Receiver,this is the first time i'm to use Taranis radio. Before that,i was flying with Flysky fs-ia6 tx+rx) Thank you.
hi I got same drone. One question VTX eachine 40ch has audio pin. is it smart audio ? I want to control vtx throw OSD. I connected tx5 pin to vtx audio. I can't select power 25mw 200mw 600mw throw osd (tried IRC TRAMP). How to setup with smartaudio ?
hey u can use a heat gun on the cover for the rx thats heat shrink good heavy heat shrink just a fyi thanks for beta flight info im having issues so hping it will fix
It doesn't matter what order they are soldered in. When you're finished, if the motor is spinning backward, you can switch any 2 of the wires and the motor will spin the opposite direction. Instead of resoldering, in BLHeli Suite, you can reverse the direction of the motor through the software (that is what I did). It is easier than tearing the quad apart to get to the wires.
Can somebody help me if I buy want to buy one to build what type of soldering iron do I need and what type of solder to buy leadfree solder to buy and do i need buy any flux????? help
warning for buyers you can burn ECS ..... problem are motors that are badly made .... all with silver nuts .... have one problem .... distance washers are two under the hairpin and silver steel should be on the right But the copper holder under the clip, it's easy to verify ... knock the engine left to the right a dozen times lightly compressing it when you feel a slight crack or resistance check washers and clean the magnets and stalls from debris ... for me this problem was solved if I connected the motors without checking, I would surely fry the next ECS ... Regards
good build man , enjoyed the vid - ( just my 2 cents tho for newbs ) , for just a little more money you can build a much nicer quad, with much better electronics, motors and cam system. do your own research on all the parts. those motors it comes with are weak ( 2206 2150KV ) , they are underpowerd on 3 or 4s , and they are too high kv on 5s ( whole point of low kv hi volts is to reduce amp draw / battery sag - at this kv youll sag a 5s even tho its compatible , for 5 or 6s to give you a performance advantage you need low kv, like 17- 1800 range ) that ICM20602 gyro is crap, an mpu6000 on isp is what you want on an f3 / f4 fc - theres no point in going 32k/32k on betaflight with an f4 cpu , or even 16k 16k- // this setup will be best for 8k / 8k , which is why that gyro is crap. i could make a much better list but you get my point. theres lots and lots to learn about , dont get overwhelmed - but knowing the hardware is important, and not having quality components , good motors ,esc's , properly matched gyro and flight board etc etc can really ruin a newcomers experience. if your serious and want to grow, learn and advance i wouldnt buy this kit. spend 50 more bucks and build yourself something you can really grow into, something that as you get better at flying, you can adjust your rates / tune and continue pushing your limits. testing this on 5s will be interesting, as im almost 100% that 2150 kv x 21 volts = 45,150 rpm. that esc is rated at 30 amps, ( and its a cheapie) i can almost promise you youll be far exceeding 30 amps total draw on 5s - dont even try it just do the math. unless you want to run 2 blade 5030s or something with very low pitch, so you can drop the amps down. for a freestyle quad with most 3 blades, about 35k rpm is ideal, which for 5s is about 1700 kv ( 35k / 21 volts = 1666 kv ,, that is the kv range you need to run 5s on this quad and keep your amps down. those motors are junk / they are no good on 3 or 4s , and they are no good on 5s. the fc is junk, it has a gyro capable of 32k , but an f4 cpu // doesnt add up . the only thing considered when they put this kit together was proffit. they didnt actually give any consideration to the actual parts match up. good build to the author ( should have educated people on motor kv tho ) but bad build on on the mfg of the kit . i give this 4/10 . would have been a 6/10 with some 2300kv motors ( most ppl use 3 and 4s) , would have been 7/10 with better fc and gyro, and 8/10 for better esc - 9/10 if they would have gave you descent camera , and it would have made 10/10 if the vtx wasnt junk.
That is a long comment! The beauty of this kit is that it is all-inclusive and people don't have to pick and choose parts. More money will always buy better parts. This is a low-priced, low-soldering kit for $100 - it has 12 easy wires to solder. It is good enough to race with and should last for a long time as long as it isn't destroyed in crashes. There are plenty of upgrades that can be added later. 2600kv motors on 4S run 43,680 at full throttle. 2150kv motors on 5S run 45,150 at full throttle. That's not a huge difference. The included 4-in-1 ESC can peak to 40a. I'd say there was more danger-risk to the ESC in a crash than there would be from the motors. Other people had similar arguments against the X210 kit. I raced it for 11 months till I finally bent a motor bell in a crash. It was awesome.
