Great video. Lots to unpack here with your fermentation. I've been brewing with Kveik for 1 year now, and got to meet Lars Marius Garshol twice. The first element is your fermentation temperature. You're going to make great beer with Kveik @ ~20-25c, but it's going to be much slower than many attest. A lot closer to normal ale fermentation times. Assuming you're using OYL-091, it's the original 8 "strains" from the original farmer, with the bacteria removed. Thus it behaves in a similar manner to his brewing so consider the following. Kveik grows faster than many ale strains, thus why it can tolerate that lower pitching rate (It's actually 1 Tsp, or 5ml, that's recommended for up to 25L of wort). If you had pitched into 30c wort, as the original farmer did, it would've sped up the process and your lag time would've been cut in half or more. He then ramps up the temperature to 35c, to finish up in 48 hours. However, there's something else to consider here. Almost ALL Kveik is very greedy for FAN. They need a much higher supply of FAN than most ale yeast. So, in a wort < 1.060 OG, you should consider putting in a double or triple amount of yeast nutrient. That will also help with your fermentation. Terje Raftevold, the source of Hornindal Kveik, brews raw ale (no boil) so it is heavy in nutrients, even at a lower OG than some farmers who massively boil their wort, increasing the the OG immensely. Many have attested that Hornindal is much more sensitive to this than say Voss (Sigmund Gjernes Kveik). I've brewed one Raw Ale so far and I enjoyed it fresh. I didn't like how it aged, however. You may also consider that underpitching is not REQUIRED. I've pitched a homebrew pack size and 1 Tsp and got great results in both. I typically go with 1 Tsp of yeast from my fridge, if it's 6 months or younger. If it's older, I build it up in a vitality starter on my heated stir plate, from the moment i'm milling the grains. Or from collected & cooled to pitching temp (whatver the wiki suggets) wort from the mash In summary, I think your yeast was stressed from the lack of nutrients, most of all. But temperature could've helped with that lag period and perhaps sped up the growth phase for those yeasty boyz to get ahead and complete by 1 week, as you were hoping. Here's some links for you to peruse: How to use Kveik (Lars) www.garshol.priv.no/blog/393.html Farmhouse yeast registry (lars): www.garshol.priv.no/download/farmhouse/kveik.html ^ Search for FY #5 Hornindal, it will show you all the details for this strain, along with the blog post of brewing with the farmer Pitch rate Study (Escarpment) www.escarpmentlabs.com/single-post/2019/11/01/The-impact-of-pitch-rate-on-kveik-ferments (I know the temperature debate is still considered open, on the above article, as they fermented at 20c) MtF Kveik wiki: www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Kveik One more, for fun, a brewday with the farmer who gave us Hornindal Kveik: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CRfqIvBaUB8.html Really enjoy your videos and how in detail you unpack your thought process, along with your methods and results.
Great informative reply. No wonder he is doubting the stories about kveik. I feel responsible for not telling about the nutrients required for kveik. Anyhow very great reply
I mean, there's a lot to tell! It's easy to understand why someone wouldn't be able to unpack all the knowledge, all at once, like most elements of yeast health and brewing in general.
Dude. This is amazing information! Thank you so much for sharing, the nutrient definitely seems like the cause. I put in the standard amount I put in for many brews (2.5 tsp) but it needs even more I suppose. Thank you for your insight and for watching the video! I have a lot to read here with those articles, I appreciate it a lot.
A very good informative home brewing video. I was stationed in Germany for 6 months (Jjune - Dec. 1968 ) while in the U.S. Army, drank many German brews, mostly Dinkelacker beer. So when I came home I wanted to brew my own beer, this was mid 1971, but most beer books etc. said I needed copper kettles, which I never found any, at the time. I ended up brewing 7 home brews eventualy which only one 5 gallon batch was good. This is why I enjoy home brewers videos. Thanks, and stay safe during these Covid 19 times. thumbs UP & I Subscribed. Cheers!
Its all about that temp! I think. I've seen videos were Norwegian folks are making their starters in a bucket while doing an extended boil , by taking boiling wort out of kettle and cooling to blood temperature. With my own brews, I make starters to harvest for future use. Stranda / hothead and Hornindal needed a seedling heat pad to get going on my stir plate. Voss is usually good at my houses lower ambient temps. I brew in winter months by duct taping heat mats to my fermentation bucket, then wrap in an old blanket. Head room is needed, Kveik is pretty explosive stuff. Your channel Is always good, Keep em coming!
There is nothing wrong with having some haze in your beer! HAZY BEER GANG! RISE UP! - Great video, Ill be trying a recipe like this the following week.
Nice video...I am going to make that with some Voss kveik that I have. My experience with kveik is temperature.I had fermented at 70-75 and experienced the same delay in fermentation you had. I did an amber ale and tried fermenting at 90 . Fermentation started in less than 12hours and was done in 48 hrs. I let sit for 5 days total and came out crystal clear and no off smell or flavors. It was great. The haze thing , someone at my brew store said that stone ground corn from a retail supermarket can have hull and germ in it and cause a haze just due to its ultra small particle size. He recommended steamed flake corn.
That's an interesting thing with the ground cornmeal. Could definitely explain it, I think you may be right though because the stone ground cornmeal did say it didnt have the germ removed.
The haziness might be do to very low calcium level in the water. Generally the books I’ve read on water recommended calcium level at 50 ppm or higher for beer clarity. The other way I’ve got haziness in beer is milling to small of gap. I hope this helps. You make great videos on the topic of home brewing.
This is very interesting. I've heard that this was a style invented by 'old school' American ale brewers as a result of competition of the crisp lagers brewed up by german immigrants to the states. As lagers required specialised equipment and lots of time to make this beer was relatively successful as the turnaround was quite fast and the flavour profile was close enough to lagers to be quaffable. I've recently brewed a historic Australian beer which used turbinado brown sugar. I reckon the difference between this cream ale and one of these historic Australian beer styles was that we used significantly more brown sugar (up to 40%). Although sugar was used in relatively high quantities I find it interesting that cream ales are meant to be light and quaffable while the historic style which has no official name is meant to be an emulation of an english mild, although much more quaffable and a more differing caramel and molasses like flavour profile.
Hornindal is a beast. I love this yeast. I would consider the long start time as a product of a couple of issues. Yeast viability (the number of yeast cells that are alive and able to replicate & consume sugar and produce alcohol and esters) vs. yeast vitality (the number of yeast cells that are awake, have O2 saturated cell walls and are raring to go eat some sugars). When you pitch from slurry straight out of the fridge after more than a week or two, viability is probably more than sufficient, but vitality is probably pretty low. In order to get a quick start to your ferment, you need not only viability, but vitality as well. You can increase vitality by pitching that tablespoon of yeast slurry into about 300 ml of your cooled post-boil wort and spinning it on your stirplate for 4 hrs before pitching into your fermenter. This step will help to get your yeast through most of it's lag phase setting it up for successful fermentation. Next, the nature of kveik being such a rapid fermenter, it's nutrient needs are higher than other saccharomyces strains and therefore it is probably a good idea to increase the amount of yeast nutrient we use. Sure the malted barley we use has some nutrients for yeast in it, but anytime we are brewing with adjuncts (corn meal) the amount of nutrients is lower. I typically just double whatever amount of yeast nutrients I use with other yeast strains. Even though we all hear about how underpitching kveik can lead to desirable flavors, we still want to treat the relatively smaller number of pitched cells very well. Makes sense to me. Love this channel. Hope u keep up posting videos. Cheers!
I hadn't even considered the fact that adjuncts lower the nutrient levels. Very good points all and in agreement with what others have said today as well. Appreciate the insight and thanks for watching!
Oslo Kviek fits really well in this style! I just brewed one last weekend and kegged it on Friday. I dry some and put in freezer. If you want rice you can use Instate Rice. Mine is 70% Pilsner, 20% corn flakes, 10% Minute rice.
Thank you for another great video! If you do make this beer again, you could try adding some gelatin to your crash cooled keg while you are carbonating the beer. Might help clear it up a bit.
I recently crafted something that i called it "cream ale", but i use pale and oatmeal instead of cornmeal, so the result was very similar to yours. The head was very creamy and powerful too.
When I repitch as you’ve done here I use 1/4-1/3 cup yeast for lighter gravity ales, 1/2-2/3 for medium/ upper gravity, and 1 cup for high gravity (along with pure O2 of course) anywho, good videos, I’m enjoying watching your process start to finish and seeing your thoughts and notes on each beer.
If you use campden, it's worth noting that one tablet will treat 20 gallons and usually 1/4 tablet will do what you need. Also, I find that kveik requires normal pitching rates at lower fermentation temperatures, particularly with refrigerated slurry.
Would love to brew something like this for my BL loving friend. I brewed a lager last year, but it takes up space in my fermenting chamber and for a long time as well. If I could get a clean crisp beer for a fraction of the time, that’s a win win for me. Like yourself, I prefer beer with more flavor. This will be brewed this month instead of my lager! I also just want to thank you for these videos, Steve. I have commented on so many of your videos and you always take the time to reply back. I have learned so much from you, and my brews continue to get rave reviews. Finally, during these crazy times my life has been crazy due to being a healthcare worker on the front line. Screening for this virus and worrying about potentially taking it home to my family scares the crap out of me. Even though all precautions have been take there is always that chance. And watching your videos while drinking a home brew after my shifts help me forget what has transpired throughout the day and makes me hopeful that this all will be in the past soon. So, thank you, Steve! For all your hard work and dedication to this awesome hobby! I wish you and your family well. Stay safe, my friend. And happy brewing! 🍺🍺🍺
First of all I want to thank you for what you are doing right now. I have health care workers in my family and we feel what you are going through - be safe, and thank you for your sacrifices, you all are doing amazing and very tough work, and we all owe you. I'm very happy and frankly honored that I can provide some respite during this time. And yes, we will get through this! You stay safe too and keep up the good work!!!
I really like your video's! If you are disappointed about the haze, as you correctly deducted: no protein, no polyphenols, no yeast, then maybe the haze comes from a not full conversion of the starches and some leftover starch and long dextrines in solution (probably from the corn). Some brewers even add a little starch during the end of boil for making their NEIPA extra hazy. I guess an iodine test (checking if all the starches are converted into limit dextrines) at the end of mashing should prevent this problem. if the iodine is positive, then extend mashing for another 10 mins, when negative then you did a good job and it's time for lautering! I'm new to the kveik yeast, very interesting to learn more about this kind of yeast! Cheers! Looking forward to your next video!
I should probably start incorporating iodine tests into the process, it's just good practice. I mean I'm usually pretty confident things went the way they were supposed to with an hour mash but it never hurts to be sure
@@TheApartmentBrewer Yeah a 1 hour mash normally should be sufficient, though the milling of the grain also has an influence (too coarse) and also other things (forgot to adjust the pH, quality of the malt, ....) As you say it's a good practice and checks if your process went well, especially if it's a first time you brew a new recipe, once you brew the same recipe again i guess an iodine test is not necessary. Keep up the good work!
Very intereting video. I've not used Kveik yeast yet, it certainly is a different animal. Excellent videos like this one, as well as all the follow-up comments, help to take some of the mystery out of Kveik for those of us not experienced with it. Watching this also makes me miss my favorite cream ale, Genesee Cream Ale, which I can't get since moving from NY to CA......Cheers!!
Oh yes I had some Genny Cream back in NYS haha. Yes, I've been super pleased at all the knowledge in the comments. Really helped identify what was going on.
I brewed a MoreBeer Blonde Ale AG kit for my first AG brew day in my new Brewzilla Gen 3.1.1...9lb Viking Extra Pale malt and 8oz Crystal 15 L with 1oz Willamette at 6.0AA and .25 oz German Tetnang at 3.8AA both in boil at 60 mins. Yeast was 1 packet of Lutra Kveik 071 dry. Heated 7.25 gallons at 170 treated with 2tsp Burton salts and 5ml lactic acid. Tap water pH is 7.5 according to water report...6 gallons into Brewzilla and 1.25 reserve for sparge. Per instructions mashed in at 154F and mashed @ 152F for 60 minutes mashed out at 170 for 10 minutes. Sparged 1.25 gallons. Ramped to boiling during sparge. Boiled for 60 minutes. Added yeast nutrient at 15 minutes and whirlfloc at 10 minutes. Cleaned and sanitized stainless wort chiller that came with the Brewzilla and set it up in igloo cooler with ice and salt water ran the wort through the stainless chiller back into Brewzilla and chilled down to 82F in about 20 minutes. Transferred 4.3gal to Keg King Snubnose Pressure fermenter at 78F at 8pm on August 1st and had major activity the next morning at 7 am. I put spunding valve and 10psi C02 Thursday morning. As of this morning Friday the 4th very minimal bubbles and no signs of active yeast. My OG was 1.042 so was off from expected 1.044-48 from kit. Pulled sample from party tap midnight last night.... highly carbonated and had to let settle... checked this am and sitting at 1.012 and looks to be fairly clear so far even though haven't added fining yet. In your opinion how much longer should I leave it before transfer to keg for crashing and chilling? Was thinking I'd wait until Tuesday (7 days) before Transfer to keg. Thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Mark Tallahassee, FL
Great video! I wonder if your saccharification rest for corn is doing anything. Cornmeal will not convert its starches to sugars until it is gelatanized. Flaked maize has been gelatinized which is why a lot of home brewers use it. Of course you do boil the corn before adding it to your mash so you have that covered, but I see no need to rest it before the boil. Also, adding 20% barley malt to the corn will help to thin it out. In the hobby distilling world cornmeal is boiled with water to get it gelatinized before mashing it. Thanks for giving us this recipe!
Most of the research I did indicated that no matter the adjunct, its good practice to hold a brief sacch rest to ensure all the starches will be available to the enzymes. But I suppose it's not completely necessary, although I did exceed my efficiency calculations, with flaked maize in Beersmith. Actually the whole reason I used cornmeal is because I completely forgot to include flaked maize in my northern brewer order and had to sub!
I've only used Voss Kveik and I harvest and reuse like you're doing. In my experience the yeast really struggles under 80°f. That is probably why it took so long for fermentation to kick off.
Great video! In baking at least, using your own starters are sometimes just variable. They being living things they can produce different amounts of energy. One of the reason for using the yeast from a company is that they really tried to find away to get something that is exactly the same each time. But even though it crashed a bit this time, I do love seeing people using their own ingredients. I wonder if it would be a cool video to see you go to someone harvesting their own grain locally and making a beer of that with your own starter. I also wonder if making the sugar into a simple syrup would be good insurance to keep it from scorching? Also how about making a super high ABV beer? Something like 15 or 20 percent? You're videos are great to watch!!! Keep up the good work!!!
All good ideas and questions. Mixing in the sugar with water for sure would aid in its dissolving but would also add to volume (I'm just lazy though). Would be very cool to source my own grain or even make my own malt as I've been contemplating, but I work full time and barely have enough time as it is to find ingredients at the homebrew shop haha, would still love to do it. And to address the suggestion of making an ultra strong beer...I have an eisbock video coming this weekend! Cheers and thanks for watching!
Great video as always! The pinned comment has a lot more info than I can give, but in our anecdotal experience with Kveik is that the temperature is important. We fermented in the 80s but dropped it to 60 to dry hop, and crashed it further before bottling. It took three weeks to carb at ambient temps so our lack of extra FAN and lower than optimal temps affected that. WIth regards to haze we were trying to make a hazy boi, but I have heard that it is a hazier strain. Probably gonna brew another kveik or two this summer so we'll see how those go.
It's by far one of my favorite yeasts, but definitely far more complex than meets the eye. I think I may use this strain for my next NEIPA! Definitely going to use it mid summer when the apartment has high ambient temps!
I’ve actually had time to brew a Kölsch which is kegged and crashing and have a NEIPA fermentingas we speak. I also have more grains on the way. Have 4 kegs might as well fill em ha ha. Love the vids brother keep em coming.
Hi great video and thanks for this. I have info here from Kveik themselves and they suggest “2 large teaspoon” of the slurry. Maybe you I underpitch it by half?? Hope it helps.
TheApartmentBrewer I don’t know if more corn would help. I do add about 8 oz of caramel 10. And sometimes a pound of Vienna malt. I’ll even put half ounce of galaxy hops to get a little more flavor. That’s my version of a cream ale. And I use around an oounce of hallertau mistfugh hops.
Corn is a decent source of protein. Depending on the variety, the protein content ranges from 10-15% ( 1 , 5). The most abundant proteins in corn are known as zeins, accounting for 44-79% of the total protein content
I still am hesitant to believe that it would precipitate as a haze though. Most instances in which corn adjuncts are used in brewing results in a bright clean beer. Someone else in the comment section mentioned that stone ground cornmeal still has the germ in it and this is likely responsible for the haze, I think that makes the most sense to me but I could be wrong.
I've also have had issued with beer clarification. I used gelatin in a Mexican lager and it was super clear. I then switched over to using biofine clear on my Irish Red and Kolsch and it did not clear up at all. I guess i might stick with gelatine. Also looking into getting a floating dip tube to see if it helps. Great video as always.
Gelatin has always been very effective for my beers, but the last kviek brew I did was also somewhat hazy. I wonder if it has something to do with the yeast. A floating dip tube is always a good thing, I should probably set my kegs up so they have that too! Cheers!
Nice. Won't your beer clear out in keg over 1-3 weeks? Mine does...starts out a little hazy and cleans up crystal clear while it conditions and ages. But that is non Kveik, so maybe it's a yeasty thing. Great video...will watch aging while I brew my Coconut Porter tomorrow! Cheers!
Sweet, didn't realize this was with kveik! My next brewday will be a cream ale also, and I totally didn't steal that from you. ;-) as far as the haze goes, i've never had kveik go totally clear for me (10 brews with it now).
I haven't done one dedicated specifically to it, but I have incorporated it into some of my videos. If you watch my Kveik NEIPA video I believe I do it in there
Just reading and it’s says that underpitching is the key for this yeast...unfortunately yours didn’t kick off within 30 min...maybe a tad more or try a yeast starter for the washed yeasts you have? ... I just read this “fermentation with kviek on low-gravity worts can be quite slow and give low attenuation” ... so maybe it was your lower gravity beer that made it kick off slower? yea not totally sure I never use this before...excellent video! Love your stuff! Cheers 🍻
I think Mark Prossers comment absolutely nailed the reason why it took so long to start. Dialogue like this is one of my favorite parts of running a brewing channel, we're all learning here. Thanks for watching!
Quick question. U put some pilsner malt with the cornmeal in the cereal mash. Did u take that out of the original 8.5 lbs that would go in the main mash?
Hey! I just discovered your videos a week ago. I've been bringing them, haha. Love to see your basic (frugal ;)) way of working. I brew in my kitchen as well, in a large soup pan. Love it! But just a question... In a videoproducer and camera operator by trade, and I can't help but notice that almost all your shots are greatly over-exposed. To a point that it seems like either a very consistent technical issue with your camera or maybe a creative choice? Buy why? Haha
I appreciate the feedback, I'm still really trying to dial in my contrast. Where specifically in this video did you see overexposure, if you dont mind? It looks like the levels are good on my screen. My apartment gets sunlight from one side, and I dont have enough lights to balance out everything, so it's either overexpose slightly or have dark shadows on half my shot. Also learning never to trust the LCD display Haha. Hoping to dial things in soon.
@@TheApartmentBrewer yes it's mostly the shots on your sofa, but also in the kitchen where you show the cornmeal, for instance. You're right to never trust an LCD display, always trust some kind of measuring tool. Most camera's have a histogram or waveform display to check your lighting with. Or check out the "zebra" function, most camera's have that as well. Either way, the content is fine so it's all in the details ;)
I like to ferment beer with Kveik Hornindal at 95F which is 35C for me. I’m in Brazil. Always do a starter to get close to 100ml yeast cake which should be 3.5 oz I guess.
That haze is more than likely a protein haze. It should drop clear in about a month in serving temperature. I had the same thing happen to me while making a table beer.
That may be the case, I think someone else in the comment section mentioned it may be germ from the cornmeal, which makes a lot of sense to me. I was under the impression corn has a lower protein content than other adjuncts but I could be wrong.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Hmm, I'm not sure, to fair. I don't know all the technicals but I do remember bottling a very clear fermented wort and my excitement to chill it down only to crack it and see my clear wort had become super cloud city haha. I know that pilsner malt might contribute to chill haze as well. I think the reason why folks who use Kveik don't notice it is because we usually don't use cold enough temperatures to promote a chill haze. This is just speculation though; best I can do!
Im curious about your mash. Do you apply any active heating during the mash or do you heat it to your strike temp and let it slowly cool over the hour and does it even cool that much? Im just starting with BIAB brewing using a 30L kettly and am trying to fine tune my setup
Yes, I have a recirculating system which maintains a steady temperature during the entire mash. In some of my older videos though I did classic BIAB and had great results just tossing a ton of insulation around the kettle and letting it sit. Usually lost about 3 degrees over an hour and a half but still got great beer out of it.
Perhaps the yeast got stressed because of the "low" OG for kveik standards - most kønnøl is made with very high OG (1.080+) because the Norwegian farmers like their beer sweet. I've had similar experiences with low OG brews with some kveik (Hornindal amongst them) without adding nutrients. Have you used an isolate or unpurified culture?
It could also be a good explanation in addition to not giving the kviek enough nutrients. I haven't played around with a mixed culture yet but it should be happening eventually on this channel. Thanks for your insight and for watching the video!
Re-pitching kveik - Yeast Nutrients, Yeast Nutrients, Yeast Nutrients. 3-4 times recommended. I have been re-pitching Voss for a while. 1st pitch from the pouch will be a short lag time. After that the lag time increases. Yeast nutrients take care of that. In the boil is all you need. No need for a starter.
Just brewed a very similar beer but used Oslo Kveik yeast. After 2 weeks I couldnt get my gravity to drop below 1.020. I was thinking it was purely temperature related but after watching this and seeing some comments, think the lack of nutrients may have contributed. Put it on tap anyway, just sweeter than I wanted. Mine also has that haze, even with whirfloc and gelatin. Is that just a side effect of Kveik yeast?
Yep, based on the things I've learned from the other comments here, it seems to be all about giving kviek way more nutrients than standard brewers yeast, and bringing up the temp anyway. I think my haze was a result of the cornmeal still having germ in it, which wouldn't be present in flaked corn. Did you use cornmeal as well?
TheApartmentBrewer Definitely going to give mine another try with more nutrients. But mine used flaked corn. I don't have a floating diptube though, so maybe it'll clear up with time as I lower the keg level
Hi, I plan on brewing this beer this week, 1 major question: can I complete the cereal mash and add it to the main mash for the complete rest period? My mash rest happens in the oven, heated to the lowest setting and then turned off, creating a similar temp environment for the mash kettle so less heat is lost so I don’t want to open oven midway to add cereal mash. Minor question, brewing a 3gallon batch with Lutra, ill effects to adding the whole slurry to wort? Gonna pitch at 90F and then let cool to room temp on it’s own. Thank you !
Awesome! Nope, you can throw the cereal mashed bit in with your main mash whenever you want, or you could just skip the step and get flaked Maize or flaked corn to put right in your mash like any other grain. And there are no ill effects to adding the whole lutra packet. Good luck!
@@TheApartmentBrewer Follow up: pitched at 88F and real activity after 1.5hours ! I just improvised a blow off tube because I have 4” of krausen ! Also ambient temp is 23.3*C and temp of glass fermenter is 27*C ! This yeast is a beast ! OG 1.050
@@TheApartmentBrewer After 2 weeks in fermenter and 3 weeks bottle carbing at 2.6 vol/co2 the verdict is in: this beer is great !! It does clock in at 6.5% and I have a little bit of chill haze but that’s ok, I’ll keep this recipe on hand for some summer brewz !
Out of curiosity, could you handle the mashing in the smaller kettle? Seems like it should be large enough for that and then the smaller kettle volume wouldn't limit your sparge volume.
It absolutely is! I used to in fact back when I did classic BIAB. The issue for me is that I am more concerned about maintaining my mash temps a bit more precisely now, which is my excuse for building the recirc system haha.
no worries at all man, its always a learning process, most ur beers are so amazing, an oddball is no big deal.......just pitch some extra yest and throw in some nutrients nxt time and you be fine.....anyway I think u shud turn PRO with ur skills mate...........cheers and have a homebrew......haha......
in a nutshell, ferment at 37C next time, dont oxygenate the wort, mash at 5.5 to 5.6 ph and lots of nutrients (servomyces)
3 года назад
Farmhouse yeasts need a lot of oxygen and a lot of yeast nutrients, also you probably fermented it way too low temperature. Clear beer is not common with kveik, with my brews I got it clear with skare and long lagering. For 30l of wort, I use a teaspoon. Also, I make a fresh yest from starter every few months.
I don't understand adding malted 2 row for 15 minutes. What does this do for the starch? I understand the enzymes for breaking down starch but what are the enzymes purpose at the 158 degree rest? We're not converting starch to sugar at this point, or are we?
158 is right in the middle of the gelatinization range for corn, so that step is so enzymes from the malted barley can pre-gelatinize the corn. Boiling physically explodes them and turns the cornmeal into a goo that goes into the main mash at sachharification temps where the main starch conversion into sugars happens. Plenty of great resources online if you want further info.
@@TheApartmentBrewer absolutely! Thanks for the reply man, I love your videos. I'm gonna try the cream ale but I forgot flaked corn today and I'm brewing tomorrow so I'm gonna try the corn meal. I understand how it the process goes, I just don't understand why exactly yet as this is the first I've heard about doing a cereal mash. I'll dig Into it! Cheers dude
The amount of kveik you pitched is way too low for that amount of wort and the necessity to rest was because you treated it like any other yeast. It consumes acetaldehyde pretty quick at higher temperatures.
