@Jehugarcia Where I live there is no electrical vehicle infrastructure at all. I do own a Lectric XP 2.0 which is a 48v powered ebike. This looks pretty plug and play. What is the amp hours of this battery pack, I'd have to double it anyways, but I'm curious. Are all the parts available on your shop?
Your channel is akin to Linux in the computer world. Open source is to the benefit of everyone involved. Sharing knowledge is only going to make the industry stronger and better. Thank you for your videos I am know understanding the inner workings of my power station. One day I will make my own the way I want it to work.
Great videos my Hispanic brother. This Jamaican guy learned DIY battery setup(s) from you. I've put many of my friends and family to your channel. They love it. We've learned so much from you.
Some day I hope to build battery packs using your pcb boards, but for now, I'm still harvesting LiFePO4 and building battery packs. Great job, and thanks for making it Open Source!
It would be great if you could drop after the video or to your home page a list of must components needed + nice to have like the little display and BMS needed. Or have a link to point to list of goods needed for the project.
Great idea. Why not moving the BMS connector further out and get rid of the spacers? More parts equals more resistance and potential failure points. I think the thick negative cable goes on the BMS. Indeed, you need pretty good compression, otherwise the terminals could be damaged when the battery expands. Is there a way to have a flexible PCB between terminals? That would be awesome!
I know you don't really ship to the UK and you use a shipping service but it's not another company that I can just get these directly to the UK. Thanks!.
Looks nice, great video. Regarding pricing, it looks like all the components needed add up to a bit over $600. Amazon has complete 24V 100Ah batteries for less than or equal to that price. Did I miscalculate or miss something? Thank you again.
I have wondered this too. Whether it's better to build one of these or to buy an existing 100 AH battery with built-in BMS or to build one of these. I think these may have an output advantage. That you can pull a LOT at once and the pre-made batteries maybe don't have that capability.
It would be cool to have a second board without the bms connector and make it just a bit shorter so it acts as the spacer and helps carry load. That eliminates spacer misplacement.
@@jehugarcia if the current are carried by the spaces y don't know why are necessary this big board if is only carrying the small signal 😅 I can carry this signal with few wires
Hello. I bought 16 EVE brand 280ah cells to make a 48v 280ah battery pack. I also bought JK BMS, it also has other connection equipment. However, during the final assembly, I could not decide what I should put as an insulator between the cells. They install epoxy sheets in commercial products. I don't have any epoxy sheets. I am thinking of using corrugated (cardboard / cardboard sheet etc.) for both insulator and heat ventilation, but I do not know if there is a fire risk in this. As long as there is no arc or heated cable, I do not think there will be an ignition due to cell temperature. Because if that degree of heat is released, the cell is already dead. WHAT IS YOUR ADVICE?
If the battery gets hot enough to ignite cardboard on contact, then the most likely the BMS has failed and the battery will probably vent gases. I am looking for a separator that allows air flow. I have seen a CATL power pack for telecoms with such a design. Perhaps a guy skilled in 3D printing can design one.
can you do a thermal scan on the PCB? most PCB are build with super thin copper and power electronics would heat up with thin conductors .. perhaps a fire risk.. but also a wasteful battery.
I would like to build 2 batteries, I am using 280 ah cells and and will configure them to 24 volts.. I will then hook them in parallel and then into a Victron system. I will run 4-540 watt panels and each panel is rated at 49.3 volts MY question is which BMS should I run to to run these batteries
Great Job ... why not extend the board our a quarter in to accommodate the plug for the batgo... this would eliminate the spacer and the chance of heat building up
What gauge wire would be sensible for the terminal connection cables from this battery. I would like to connect battery to my Bluetti AC200Max. Was going to ask this question on Facebook, but my account has been blocked - no idea why.....🤔
Hi Jehu, Great video and very informative, THinking about using these cells for my Solar battery bank. How would I use the same PCB-Way boards to use a BMS in this build? I want to upgrade my existing 18650 battery bank to Lipo4. I really appreciate any help you can provide.
I think your videos are awesome. Please don’t misunderstand. What makes no sense is why you wouldn’t sale theses projects as a complete kit? I understand you live in California and California taxes are high. That said, setting up a distribution site in a more friendly state can’t be that complicated. The benefits far outweigh the hassle. Feel free to contact me here in Florida. I may be interested in helping you out.
Hi there, is there a video of this product for a 12v diy battery? I know you have assembled thousands of those, but i like the convenience of the pcbway board with the bms plug and play port.
Through-hole parts are far easier and simpler for DIY.. a simple soldering iron and skills are all that is required. And these projects are intended for DIY.
@@ernestgalvan9037 True enough, but he could also include the PCBS with the connectors already mounted too :) OR make the pcb stick out a bit so the connector pins are not causing an issue.
i been waiting so long for you to maqke videos about 72v-96v setups like this because i cant ever use low voltage setups and would buy so much stuff from you to make my projects come to life but it seems your focus is only to certain project for people that do either solar and or powerwalls but will you be doing higher voltage video setups soon? for like motors that require 72v-96v i would and so many other would buy more things knowing you made videos for those on here with that type of theme.
@Andy Lee Robinson hehe well I do many things besides learning how to build batteries, nothing is rocket science but if you don't know you just don't know. I can tell you to try and build some things I know how to do and for you it would feel like rocket science because you wouldn't know how to even start it and that's only due to not knowing about it.... nothing is hard if you already know.
@Andy Lee Robinson ya but I want to see his specific products made in a video with boards he creates for them and all that , thanks tho for the advise.
Any 2.54mm pitch connector should work if it has pins sticking out on one side and can be plugged in to a JST XH terminal. Pretty sure Jehu is using a dupont style connector here which is very similar to the JST XH. 8S JST XH 2.54mm is going to be more common. Yes, confusing its 9pins or 9P but is referred to as 8S because its 8 cells in series and then theres the negative. JST will usually use 8S, dupont is more likely to say 9p
Why would anyone spend money on a PCB for battery just take some copper tube flatten it out and use it as a bus bar maybe put some solder leaves at the edges where it meets the battery
Balancing 203 mV on LFP, by the ISDT? Seriously? haha. Cell #1 is mostly fully changed, while others are mostly discharged. You should note that such cells should be top balanced before combining them together to a battery.
Maybe the trash cells you are using require pre balancing. LEV60 cells are new high quality within 10mv from the factory, I had to charge that one cell to demonstrate out of balance situation for video.
@@jehugarcia if that was for intention - that's fine, but you could give it a word to indicate it, as it looked not so professional from your side to try balance such pack by the ISDB, as it would take months or so. I have the BattGO too, I know it does really tiny current when balancing.
Lesson number one, never ever go with a 24 volt system, firstly it's far more costly than a 12 volt for example the cost of inverters for a 24 volt system your looking at up to 10X the cost, secondly companies make 12 volt products such as off grid refrigerators and TV's, thirdly the are actually stronger in the way they handle current and much safer, with lithium ion batteries the higher the volts the higher the fire risk and chance of exploding batteries
1. Yes it’s slightly more costly but if you are building a large bank, there are huge advantages with high voltage. 2. There are plenty of options for 12v or 24v accessories, if not getting a single 24-12v converter. 3. Power loss in the cable is less and you can use smaller cables because you can get the same power with less current. Lost power equals heat, the relationship is Power=current^2*resistance. 4. LiFePo4 don’t have thermal runaway conditions like other lithium batteries and any decent BMS will prevent scenarios that excessively heat up the battery. 12 volts is dumb, the only reason it’s used is because that’s what cars use now. In industry electrical systems 28v is considered safe enough to work with out special equipment.
😂 you dont know what you are talking about. The main reason to go with 24v or 48v is the ability to use smaller cable and scale higher wattage. If your inverter is 2400watt the 12volt will require 200 amps cable (1/0 or 2/0), while the 24volt will only need 100 amp cable.
