Easiest Way to Build a Ford 9 inch Gear That Will Last! 

I haven't built any rears in 20 years, but I did built hundreds of 9" rears for 23 or 24 years, often with even fewer tools. If the housing and pinion support were original factory Ford car parts, the original pinion support shim was almost always a 0.020" shim. The, "old" Richmond gears usually worked best with a 0.019" shim. Later, quality control with Richmond gears seemed to changed with new owners. The newer gear brands, such as US Gear and Motive Gear seemed to usually work best with a 0.018" shim. In the old days, I'd remove the Ford 0.020" and used only the old Richmond gears, usually with a 0.019" shim. When I had to use the newer brands of gears, I found that an 0.018" shim was usually best. 40 years ago, I don't recall seeing shims for the pinion bearing spacer. The spacers were available, precision ground to length, in 0.001" increments and I found with a factory Ford pinion support, a 0.470" spacer was usually best, but sometimes I might have used a very slightly larger size. When mounting a ring gear, I'd wipe the back side with a file, to make sure it was clean and straight. Blue Loctite calls for cleaning the threads with Loctite primer, as it can't tolerate any oil residue, like Red Loctite can. I'd fit the ring gear lining up the bolt holes and hold it with a couple of clean bolts. Then I'd apply Loctite INSIDE the bolt holes of the ring gear, as coating the bolts will cause trapped air to press out of the bolt holes and the Loctite wouldn't reach the bottom of the holes. I'd tighten the caps, without torquing them. I would run the side bearings in, to align the bearings and cups, then loosen them. I'd install the pinion support, with the pinion installed and torqued with the 0.470" spacer. I'd use a 0.019" shim for the "old" Richmond gears and usually a 0.018" shim for the newer brand gears.I'd keep the non-ring gear side bearing loose and tighten the ring gear side being for zero backlash. If a hole didn't line up with the lock on the ring gear side, I'd rotate it to adjust lining up a hole with the lock. Then I'd tighten the non-ring gear side until there was resistance. Then I'd tighten two holes more of turn. if it didn't line up with the lock, I'd tighten it to line up. This spread the housing and opened the backlash to just about right. Then I'd torque the caps. Factory pinion support shim = 0.020" Old Richmond Gear shim = 0.019"(30 years ago) Most newer gears = 0.018"(?) (20 years ago) Pinion bearing spacer = 0.470" ( some people choose slightly larger to reduce drag/heat) Ring gear backlash = Side bearing two hole turn tightened from zero backlash. I would check the patterns on the gears.

You have by far the best video on setting up a third member, great instruction with the theory behind it.

I ran across this searching for a good video to set up a new Yukon housing for my drag race truck. This is LIGHT YEARS beyond that garbage video I watched on Summit youtube channel. And I now know for sure that my setup is assembled wrong. So I will be going out tomorrow and fixing the stuff I caught in this video. Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to post this.

Had always been 'hesitant' to tackle this. NOT NO MORE !! .. I set mine up step by step as I followed along. A YUGE THANK YOU !!🏁🏁🏁

I dare say this is the best F9 setup video I've ever seen. Nicely done! Going into my favorites.

Working with what cha got makes you sharp. You're the type of guy to make anything work. Good job 👍🏼

Wow this guy was great, needs more likes for sure.

I like the clarity of your audio, the filming, and the pace. 1st video I watched was a real groaner. Subscribed.

Ur videos r some of the best,thank u very much for sharing ur knowledge with us gearheads

Great informative video without the BS off topic comments you see in most other videos. Ive got a 68 Camaro with a 9" ford rearend that feels sloppy and it squeals. I've never rebuilt a rearend before, but after watching this video I feel confident that I can rebuild mine correctly. Thank you

Straight up best instructional video on 9 inch Ford set up. Keep up the great work!

The reason that the helper bearing is inside the housing is because of the low position of the pinion gear to the ring gear and to give the pinion the necessary support from trying to walk away from the ring gear because it is in about the 5 o'clock position on the ring gear Rather than the 3 o'clock position. The 3 o'clock position is much better reference point for durability, but sets the pinion much higher in relationship to the center of the case. This was done for the reason that Ford did not want the high hump tunnel in their cars, so they lowered the gear, which caused strength and bearing and gear issues wear issues. This support from the internal support bearing remedied these issues.

Very Good Information thanks for Video this guy is very conscious of his work and making sure he gets it right the kind of mechanic you want working on your ride

I've had a junk yard find 9" in the garage that I've been nervous to take apart because I've never done it before. After watching this, I'm excited to gut it and re-gear it! Thanks for the content!

This is one of the most informative videos i have ever seen. you did an excellent job!!!!!!!

Thank you for all the great content you have been very helpful with learning more about setup that I didn't know I've always said I may never win a race but I do all my own work except building motor and im self taught never had anyone show me how to setup a car keep the great content coming it helps a lot with being on a lower budget

Hey Bossman, you knocked this video out of the park. With these I feel very confident that I can setup my own gear now. Thank you!!!

one of the best, easiest to understand videos I've seen for setting up the Ford 9 inch. Thanks, very helpful

Thank you for the great explanation along with the video. Dad and I both want to thank you. This was my first time doing this and it went flawlessly. Along with the pointer of the end measurement to the plane we were able to do the math and shim it perfectly on the first shot. Thanks again!

This was VERY helpful. Thank you for showing how to do this without all the crazy setup tools. Well Done!

Very good video. I have built quite a few for my cars.. I never knew the marking on the pinion were for the measurement from pinion to casting centerline. Ty so much for all in depth details!

The best Video I have seen so far on this topic! Thank you very much. Will rebuild my Ford 8 inch with new bearings and another gear ratio this winter! As far as I know it's build the same than the 9".

Absolutely a great video 👏 thanks for sharing your experience 👍

Awesome video. Judging by the video you are a wealth of knowledge. Got one for a dana 44 front👍👍

This is a very useful video. Excellent Jason!

Great Video as always. You are doing great things with this channel. Thank you!

Good job with this Ford 9" re-build...keep the vid's comming!

Gosh darn you are my hero.. omgosh I always had soo much trouble with these gear changes thank you so much

This was such a great video. Thanks for the confidence to get this knocked out 🤙

Thank you for the great video, it was of great help assembling my own 9".

Thank you sir. Awesome video.

Thank you for the info Jason. Great video

I build gears locally in our area for lots of racers, and I used a bent 31 and 28 spline axle and cut them 6-10 inches long on the gear side and welded it all the way around to a piece of angle iron to set in the vise tighten it down and then slide your spool and untorqued ring gear onto then proceed to torque with no slip. Just a tip, other than that you do a great job

Thank you! Very helpful!

Excellent tutorial, well done!

Loved the video I could understand every move you made could’ve even look any a second !!! Keep li up very real word

Yeah I've never messed with building a gear and me and my buddy he just had somebody do him a 620 gear he was running a 650 and with the 388 it's not a big horsepower motor I think I might need something between the 6:33 and a 6:50 and with this video I think I might try doing it myself because I can always go back and check your video if I have a problem I love watching these videos great job buddy thank you

Best video ive seen on this thus far

Great lesson on rebuilding a diff they are pretty easy after you get your first one

Good stuff 👍 We gotta belly and might as well use it lol. A trick to measuring the t gauge easier is to put the frame against ur belly with the thimble pointing away from you and insert the t gauge from the side 😉 You probably did but for those not used to using a micrometer, clean the spindle & anvil (lint free) and calibrate it before each use/extended holding or temperature change. We don't run enough power to be concerned but you can deburr the sharp edges of the gear to minimize the chance of stress risers (potential for crack propagation).

Great video as always!!

Nice job clearly explaining a confusing procedure. 👍

Wow that is quite a procedure I never had the luxury of working on a rear end

Excellent video. I always reuse my pinion nut. I just silicone the threads.

I did find this video very useful. I have not gone through a diff yet but I plan to. I have a 9 inch in a 4x4 I have that I want to put a mini spool in & I might go through it at the same time. And my work is alot like what you did here. Probably reuse some bearings. I havnt let a shop work on my vehicals in yrs. I do my own work. Ofcourse there are some things I don't have the equipment for like machining when I build engines. But I have most everything I need to check to see if it needs to be machined or to make sure the machining is correct. I have a problem trusting shops. & I bet If people had the tools to check the work they have dun somtimes alot of people would have trust issues with shops.

Great video as usual

Great instructions

Very good information 👌

thanks for the video alot of help for me and my dad. THANK YOU SO MUCH. Got a question when changing the yoke out does that affect anything????

Thanks

Awesome deal, I have a local guy to build my gears. Since he is so reasonable it’s one job I don’t mind farming out. You didn’t mention what kind of housing you use, I only have one “good” housing. Most of my gears are in regular housings that I pick up, in fact most came out of pickups. Also there’s been several that was pretty badly rusted up. Since we always put new bearings in is not an issue.

nice job

Thanks!

Very detailed, just wished you would have shown how to set the pinion crush spacer. Most people are working on factory rear ends. Off to another video.

For reference going to tight on the preload will last 11 laps in the heat til she seizes and spits the driveshaft out. I learned this Saturday on the Camaro. 😂😂

All your videos are great, learning alot. Have a question. What gear oil do you run??

Back in the day when modifieds had to run real third members, we had four built (ourselves) ready to go in the trailer, always a solid spacer. Ahh the good days when changing a gear was a real job….sigh.

The best 9” set up video I have watched! I do have a question: is the set up on the tolerances you called out the same for a street drag race car or a full drag car as compared to a circle track car?

You did a great job setting up the gear, but that doesn't mean everyone can do it. And you didn't mention the locking taps that hold the lock nuts against the carrier bearing. But you did a great job !

Hey man great video for sure but I noticed you set the pinion preload without the oil splash washer…. Will that affect the preload??? Thanks again for the video

Thank you. From one gearhead to another, thank you. Great video. Another subscriber.

You have such a great way of explaining this process. I’m a novice with this and will be doing a pinion install on my 78 Bronco. Can I ask how you got the 125 ft pounds on the yoke nut in the beginning and when you first took of. 1000 was it all on feel? Thanks!

Jason...great video and confidence builder....I have a junkyard 8 inch 3.25 gear I'm going to pull a apart to add new bearings and races/seals etc. Do you recommend that 125lb spec for the 8"?? How about the preload specs? No racing with mine...just a street car.

I'm not going to lie I used to just slap them in there always whined after that. To be honest only did it twice.

I’m doing an 8” right now. What do you do if you don’t have the correct backlash also do you just set the carrier in, run the caps down til they touch and adjust the caps til you get the right pattern? Thank you for the great video

Hey Jason, I’m still learning about this. But what’s the purpose of the crush on the pinion preload? When you had it at 460, myself I was thinking that was good. Just trying to understand thanks.

What do you use for the axle side loads.... full floater or some sort of semi floating upgrade.... or stock?

thanks so much, your method of using solid preload pinion disc is way better than a crush disc, we used chalk and not Prussian blue, but who cares, are you using EP oils ?

Frikin RU-vid. One video plays for a ford 9"... now half the recommendations are ford 9". I can't believe how many people made videos for this axle. One of the easiest axles to work on... must be why there are so many videos on it.

If you don't have a spare axle when setting the carrier bearing pre load can you spin it at the pinion nut when you have it set up ? subtract what the pinion bearing preload was to get your carrier bearing pre load.

What are your thoughts on running a sway bar on dirt in a camaro? Great video again!

my rear 9 in gear was rebuilt by a knowledgeable guy and was delivered to me for install into my housing. my application is a restored mach 1 1970. I removed the yoke so I could detail the unit with correct paint and do a detail. with that said what is the process for me to reinstall the same yoke so the unit will operate good, assuming the person who did the work from the start did a good job.

I might want to suggest that instead of using light machine oil as you assemble everything in that rear end that you changed to using either automatic transmission fluid or transmission assembly Lube. Transmission fluid and transmission assembly Lube both have properties for high pressure systems like occur inside transmissions and inside rear axle assemblies. It may serve you better as well as being just a tiny bit better at resisting corrosion.

Did you have clearance your housing

Do you feel like the pilot bearing affect the preload?

Ive watched this video about a dozen times now. Im putting a set of 4.56 gears and a spool in a Ford 9". I cant seem to get any preload on the pinion no matter what i do. Old crush washer measured. 438". Solid sleeve measured .427", added a .010" shim no preload, removed the shim altogether no preload. Removed the solid sleeve so nothing between the bearings no preload?

Never seen a pinion seal make Measurable difference in pinion preload. Good thinking but I personally don't think it makes a difference. I've done hundreds of diff overhauls. Seal in or out never affected pinion preload. You can put the seal on the yoke and spin it for yourself, it's extremely light drag. Not enough to worry about as long as you're setting preload to spec.

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