Easily Strip The Machifit 100v Motor For Modifictation & Servicing 

SEE LINKS BELOW:- Machifit ER11 Chuck CNC 500W Spindle Motor with 52mm Clamps and Power Supply -- goo.gl/iQY4LK UNI-T UT353BT Bluetooth Sound Level Meter Digital Noise Tester -- goo.gl/3tRts8

Hi Steve I hope the bearing mod will cure the vibration problem I noticed previously. With better quality bearings I am sure very accurate light milling will be achievable. The brass rod trick to line up the screws is clever. Well done.

Hi Steve, Very handy tricks on fitting the screws using brass. I would suggest running and earth wire to the controller then on to the motor screw. Also a good idea to fit a fuse in line with the phase wire if you don't have one in the power plug.This could save your life !. Cheers Dave.

Hi Steve, the spring/wave washer is to provide the bearings with some pre-load so that the balls dont skate around in the races and wear out prematurely.

An excellent video. However, could I make a small observation. You have cleverly used a 300mm 1/8" sharpened brass rod to guide the long bolts past the large permanent magnets, I would just like to mention that you can buy packs of 1/8" bamboo barbecue skewers, also 300mm, ready sharpened, non-magnetic and 99p for 100.

Thanks Steve for showing us the insides of this type of motor. A bearing mounted in a rubber gasket doesn't look like a good spindle motor solution without modification. I believe the 775 motor has a bearing press fit into the end piece.

Just did one of these this morning, a waste pump for an RV. To put it back together I tyed the brushes back with fuse wire, then drew the wire out afterward.

Hi, Steve. All your videos are great...even for a dummy like me. Instead of a brass bush, I would consider a Larger ball bearing for the output end...a radial thrust sealed ball bearing. On the brush end remove rubber spacer [if applicable] a use a normal sealed radial ball bearing. I am currently building a tiny cross drilling lathe attachment with an alloy bearing block tool holder and pulley shaft, powered by a 7,000rpm, 110v, 60hz, 100w [US] sewing motor with a foot rheostat. I have a small pulley on the drilling shaft and a larger step pulley on the motor utilizing rubber O'Ring belts. The 100w motor is sufficient for the tiny drill bits I'm using. I appreciate all your videos and the fantastic commentary on your "Show & Tell" approach. Thanks, again.

Very nicely done Steve. Brass guide rods are a great idea.

Handy approach Steve - I think if I ever get one of those I'll be reluctant to dismantle but your description is most useful for reference. Neat trick with the long bolts. :)

Love your solution to guiding the long screws! Nice work!!

Hi Steve, thanks for a very informative article, I would be interested to see how to change the rear bearing.

Thank you for this video. I was just going to order this to make a tool post grinder. Now I know how to improve it's precision. Thanks!

thank you for the brass rod solution... I won't forget it!

Hi Steve, many thanks for this post. Looking for the replacement bearings. Can you give a make, type and supplier?

Steve, your videos are extremely well done and instructive. Thank you! As a matter of fact, I just received my order for this motor and I want to remove the factory mounted chuck. Further to my question of yesterday, I took off both set screws, hoping to be able to pull off the chuck from the arbor, but it seems to be stuck! Maybe heat shrunk on?? Anyway there is no movement and I don’t want to pull too hard either. Some sort of bearing puller arrangement might work, but there is very little room behind the chuck to hook it on. Your video explains pretty much everything except how you managed to remove the chuck from the arbor! I, and maybe other viewers, would be very interested in your explanation how you did this! Thank you.

As a matter of interest, the spindle on this motor is longer on the fan end and probably the same diam both ends, that means you could turn the motor around and make a new cover for the fan end slightly longer to house 2 A/C bearings so that it then becomes the chuck end which will be heaps better for a milling situation on the cheap 3018 mills etc, the regular radial bearing can remain at the previous chuck end as it now becomes the fan end.

Thanks for this great video! I've got that motor, and a 3018 CNC. It could be interesting to convert the 3018 to accept this motor. Great tip making that brass collar to save the brushes. The same, great idea how to guide the mounting screws back in place. Did You use a zz bearing? If not, how did You protect the new bearing from dust?

Excellent! Thanks for sharing how to do this. Cheers

Absolute genius. Thank you Steve

Ideally, on a proper, high end spindle, you would have two bearings with directional markings, being placed in this sort of configuration, -------- (the line being the spindle and the < > representing each bearing). This allows for a more stable rotation, regardless of load. In fact, These bearings realy arent truly all that expensive, and it may be something worth having a look into. The only other thing that immediately springs to mind is the thin steel case and the pot metal endcap possibly being additional sources of vibration. Some wisely added delrin parts might help a good deal.

I would ditch that style of ball bearing and install a pair of angular ball bearings (a.k.a. magneto bearings). You would have to modify one of the end caps so that the bearings could be pre-loaded. That would probably be easiest on the front cap by threading the o.d. of the boss and make a cap that could be screwed on an use that to set the bearing pre-load.

Love the brass rod idea, funny I thought of the same thing when you showed it. Thanks for sharing your nice project. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

I seem to have the identical motor with an ER 11 collet chuck. I will have to think aout your mod Thanks

Nice solution, I would suggest one change. It probably won't make a difference but I think the bushing should be made of something like Delrin or another suitable non conductive material. I don't particular like the armature shaft being shorted to the casing. What do you think?

Nicely done, thanks for another inspiring video. 👍🏻👍🏻

I wonder if this motor would be alright to power a very crude mini lathe I am making now with an 80mm lathe chuck.

How on earth did you get that factory mounted collet off?

did you ever balance the fan?

Great video, looks as thought there's plenty of room to make a new motor flange and maybe a bearing with a bigger diameter.

i have this spindle and it heats a lot very quickly. im interested in cooling mods. ive seen a guy run copper tubes around the magnets with liquid cooling , which helps a little but no enough. any other ideas how to cool the rotor and not just the frame?

Nice information.. Is it possible to use this motor for industrial applications in a SPM for drilling dia 1.5mm hole in mild steel 3mm thick.. Approx 3000 holes in 8hrs x 6days a week..

What size bearing would be needed without bushing? Maybe 22 mm ?

nic video Steve enjoyable as usual.

You’re a clever man! Les

Nice presentation. Cheers Peter

Hello good afternoon. Thank you for sharing this video that piqued my interest. I try to buy an economical engine, so I can adapt it to my wheelchair. It will have to be a small engine as the chair will be open and closed for transport in a domestic car. It seemed to me that this engine has strength but on the other hand it seemed very fast but I think it can be controlled. Could you tell me more about this engine? Will this engine have heating? Please, if you can, tell me what you think. Thank you.

What do you keep in that locked box in the back of your lathe.$$

i want to see how the back end bearing is done but good video

Great work. Thank you

The note below should be pinned. The bearings are isolated for a reason.

Delicate work 👌

This spindle has only two ball bearing, and rubber makes one bearings useless. Normally spindle has angular contact bearings and total 4 bearings to bear cutting backforce. If you open it, you will know this is just modified hand blender.

PLEASE NOTE:- IN THE END I USED DELRIN FOR THE BEARING HOUSINGS, TO MAINTAIN ZERO ELECTRICAL CONTACT FROM THE ARMATURE SHAFT TO THE HOUSING. I ALSO FITTED SKF BEARINGS AND A THRUST BEARING TO THE FRONT END. WHILE THESE MODIFICATIONS DID IMPROVE IT SOMEWHAT. THIS UNIT IS ONLY REALLY GOOD FOR SMALL DRILLING OPS.

Don't forget to let us know the part number for the replacement bearings you ordered.

Мне вот что интересно смотря эти ролики да конечно что такие технологии это не для нас но что вы там на западе и в Европе сделали такое что вам это всё достаётся за какие то зелёные бумажки называемые евро доллар а мы в России гарбатясь при всех своих человеческих силах ни когда не сможем позволить себе даже долю того что вы там имеете при своей нерасторопности выполнения какой-то работы чтоб вам хватало на жизнь денег и на покупку вот таких станков двигателей таких оснащённых мастерских вот это я не как не пойму хотя имея мы то что вы имеете там не хуже вас производили бы товары по качеству это все не справедливо что русские должны только обрабатывать зажравшийся запад и Америку

Waste of money as a purchase and further on as an upgrade platform. Rotor is not balanced at all and it will destroy any bearing you throw in there. Mine is shaking the floor, it's that bad. Nothing you could do about it without a professional rotor balancing machine. Even if the rotor was balanced, since the fan is not built in, it's likely that fan will throw it again out of balance once you put it back on. It's just bad engineering all the way. We would all be better off with Makita or DeWalt palm router, a properly designed piece of machinery, which is even in the same budget range. For 25eur you can buy parkside pgs 500 a1 which runs circles around this "motor".