I wish I had known about this sooner. I just installed the auxbeam version. While it was pretty easy this is so much nicer! Now I'm thinking of dumping the auxbeam. Btw, are the relays built in?
Ahh yea I was tempted to go with the Auxbeam aswell it’s really good for the price point. I just like how easy it is to set this up, and it’s nice to not have to feed wires though the firewall.
Do you mean it has one of those physical flip switches you mount into your truck? If it’s one of those switches you can just cut it off and wire it to the garmin. You just gotta know which one is your positive and which is your ground
I mean it’s pretty much the same as what I ended up doing anyways. I ended up adding my own ground bus bar which is the same Bus bar (20$) that comes with the kit your suggesting. The bar by it self plus the wiring to complete everything was like 30$ lol.. The only difference with that kit is the additional fuses, the bus bar where the positives go into and the bracket to mount everything. Overall I probably saved about 300$+ doing it myself and mounting everything to the fuse box cover. So why should I have gone with their kit? Lol.
The phone is actually a backup. The real setup is there are particular types of Garmin GPS in your vehicle that work with this unit...after downloading an app to the GPS your Garmin GPS is the main control panel for your lighrs/accessories. It's a pretty sweet setup. Instead of just some switches...the Garmin GPS plays double duty as a control panel. Oh...also NEVER attach anything directly to your battery. 1. It's an unprofessional, hillbilly setup. 2. You run the risk of killing your battery if you leave a light on or accidentally pop it on with your phone 3. When you hook up something directly to the battery it always is drawing some power from it...even with ignition off. You'll damage your battery and drain its full potential.
@@RoamWithJon I just had a Six Shooter from Trigger delivered but I was a bit turned off by how huge the unit itself is. And the gigantic loom of wires seemed a bit overkill compared to this solution. 👍🏽 Happy to hear it’s working out solid!
Hi do I have to remove or cut off the relays and switch that comes with the light bar kit? Does this mean that I only had to just wired it directly from the light bar to the power switch? Thanks
Yes you just chop everything off and wire it straight to the powerswitch. Each switch output has a max of 30 amps so if what ever you plug in goes over the 30amps it won’t work. The unit max is 100amps so if you go over the 100 amp threshold over all of the switch outputs I believe the whole PowerSwitch would turn off.
