Thanks for the video. Very clear, just now what I need. I have the boat in a marina and I would prefer not to have to charge the second battery periodically myself. I need automatic charging with an ACR
Does the negative bus bar need to be grounded or bonded to the metal on the boat (mine is fiberglass, so it will be hard to find a spot), or is the fact that it is connected to both negative batteries terminals enough to create an acceptable ground?
@@Channel-About-Nothing Thank you - one more question - your gel cel battery is grounded with the main battery - what is the second ground/black wire from the gel cel battery connected to?
@@kenthale2010 I should also say I did a second video that started more from the beginning. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Wr728VKLM28.html
I should have done a step by step instead of an after video, sorry about that. The wire came from a friend that maintains a cable company's data centers. It was leftover and going to be thrown away so he got it. It cost an insane amount per foot, like $10-20. Such an overkill I didn't think anyone would ever buy it. If you want excellent cables made in the USA at great prices go to batterycablesusa.com . Cables from them will be in an upcoming video adding a fuse block behind the helm.
Hey man! Great video! I did the same thing on a 2018 190sx. I just wanted to double check. When on selection 1 on the switch I have all electronic abilities. Blower, bilge, lights, horn etc. When selecting to selection 2 on the switch i have all the same abilities. That is normal correct?
I just did another video where I installed an amp. people will say connect it directly to the battery but I'm not willing to do that. I connected mine to the switch. I'm not willing to risk the amp running my battery down.
@@oma3710 each battery should connect to a different post on a two battery switch. It sounds like you may be installing two batteries with a single battery switch which I don't think is a great idea.
@@oma3710 I would connect it to the third post not either of the post that the batteries are connected to. That way you can be sure the amp is completely off and you can operate it off your second battery while the boat is not running.
Your bilge pump shouldn’t be hooked to battery #1 , if your switch is on the OFF position your bilge pump won’t work, you should always plug the bilge directly to battery so no matter what position you have the switch your bilge will always work.
If it's hooked to "battery #1" it would still get power to the bilge pump as it runs directly back to the battery. If, however, it was connected to the "Common" then it would not work in the off position.
I actually did another one redoing some of it and adding bus bars. It has a better parts list also. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Wr728VKLM28.html
