Same unit just an update and actual pictures of a job with finer detail printed. I really like the unit for spot color stuff. I still prefer my larger unit for halftone burning. So far photos have been a no go on the unit. I can't get a good burn on a 305 mesh... but hey for $35 bucks this unit rocks
Sweet! I finally got around to building my new exposure unit. Went from 5 min. To 50 seconds. Loved watching you wash a screen in the sink.... i used my tub. Oohh my wife got mad.... cause of the pink emulsion.... i was like hay i thought pink was your favorite color!
Most helpful exposure time X distance video on all of RU-vid with all the fancy equipment showing off their elaborate shop this lady does it quickly and efficiently. Thank you.
Hi great video.. I purchased the lamp off amazon came yesterday. I am going to build the box today.. I actually have an old glass top desk which i havent measured yet. But its possibly the required height.. Anyways im curious about the registration marks.. I am completely a newbie i only done screen printing when i was in junior high art class. Do you have a video which explains the registration marks, what and how there used for.. And when burning a screen do they get burned in the screen?
Hi, college student here. Taking silkscreen the 2nd time because I love it so much. Because of the current pandemic situation (university could go remote in the future), I'm thinking of building this exposure unit at home, just in case. So, if my screen is 23x31 inches, do you think I need one light source? Or should I buy 2 light sources? And since my screen is big, I guess I need to find the optimal distance from the glass to the light source, correct?
This light is very powerful. The one light source should expose the entire screen as this light spans out. I expose my automatic screens which are the same size as you mentioned with a single point light source.. Start as I mentioned on my video. The key is finding the best exposure time. I find a count of 15 works for most items. Detail does matter. Art with thin lines expose really fast on this unit so you have to be careful. Also if you double coat your screens like I do sometimes your screens are not exposed on the other side of the screen. I have a job to do today so I will create a video on exposing with the homemade unit and more tips that I have found
I have the same uv led light but mines 80 watts what distance do you recommend from light to screen to burn an image i did my first try and I think I overexposed the screen the distance was 14 inch from light to screen I used a glass too and ulano orange emulsion
No Diane I did not think to record myself when I made it but it is 6 old wood screens.that I had laying around. You can make a box out of 2x4's if you don't have old screens laying around The box is 24 inches tall x 20in wide x 27 inches long. I just wrapped it with a card board box to keep the light from scattering and put a glass top on it from home depot. The glass is a 18x24 inch piece of product glass and I literally taped it to the box. I hope this helps. Of you would like up close pics, I will be happy to take some and put them in the community section of the channel. Let me know. Thank you for watching, I hope you are a subscriber
LaTonna "The Lady Print Boss" this was helpful enough. Ever since I’ve seen yours I’ve been trying to wrap my head around making one that I could break down and store and remove and assemble in a jiffy.
I actually made this to take with me when I do shop trainings. It's very light weight. Shops look at me as if I am crazy when I roll up with a $35 light that burns faster than their $3000 unit. I wish I could post their facial expressions 🤣🤣
Clear glass. You heard wrong. Just clear glass from home depot. They have pieces already cut. This one is very thin. Prefer a thicker glass but that is just a preference. All long as the glass is cle a r with no uv blockers etc your find
Hello there. I have a question, please. I have a exposure box that is about 23 wide x 26 long x 19 tall. No sides, but have no issues until recently. Distance between led light and glass screen is 15 inches and has been great up until last week where it bubbles up on rear of the screen and I am wondering if this may be (regardless of how long emulsion has in youv been on screen? a way of knowing if my emulsion has gone bad?? What are some signs?? Thank you so much for your time and patience. Huie
Hi, ok I think you are saying that your emulsion is bubbling up around the edges of your screen, right? If so and this is after it is dried, either you have a fan on it too close and that will cause bubbles or your edges are thick with emulsion and when you dry the screen the gravity is pulling the emulsion down. Is the droppings on the ground or do you see run off? If you see bubbles on your emulsion bucket that is usually from stirring wait an hour for it to settle. You can tell of your emulsion has gone bad by checking the following: if it had changed to a darker color or become thick(this happens from lid being open too long and light hitting it). Sometimes you will see mold on top of emulsion when it is going bad. The manufacturers say 8 weeks after opening but since covid I had emulsion for 6 months and no issues. Hopefully this helps
Yes because somebody should have told me that mesh counts wash out differently ....usually I use any amount of time to burn a 110 and it works because I double my film positive but I tried it on a 230 and now the emulsion is stuck on there
heey latonna! i hope you are good, I would like to know which film do you use to make your negatives? It looks darker than the one i have which is completely clear, is that good?
If you look at this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q8d8aGbttBs.html around the 3 min mark I explain how to make it. I used old screens that were 20x24in each put 4 of them together and wrapped with a box. hope this helps, no I never filmed myself actually making it. the light sits 24 inches below the screen. Burn 15 seconds using chromablue emulsion and it will work every time. good luck here is the link to the light www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJZL97N?ref=exp_latonnatheladyprintboss_dp_vv_d
I prefer chromablue because it is 50% solids. Because it's a thicker emulsion you get a really nice stencil thickness and rarely any pin holes. It's easy to work with. You can walk in indirect light without preexposising the screen. It does well on thin lines. For very detailed work like realistic photos I prefer the ulama orange its thin gets crazy pin holes and exposes crazy fast, and you can see through it better than the chromablue. There is also chroma green which I haven't done a good test on get but I will try that soon as it's suppose to be good for halftone printing
To each his own method of doing things. Its pretty easy to sit in front of a computer screen and criticize someone who is trying to help people. If I had a problem paying a water bill I would not run water. Good day!
