Thanks for the additional instruction. I have put together multiple boxes, frames, etc.; however, I appreciate the info from someone more experienced. I also appreciated the tips on starter strips, fishing line and frame construction. I use a pin nailer (instead of the staple gun) because that is what I had available - basically the same end product. They are strong enough and much less effort than the nails. Thanks!
Quarter inch staple gun, 1 inch and a quarter (1"1/4) for frames. I use wedge frames and turn the wedges sideways and us a 5/8 Brad nails on the wedge. 20 lb fishing line, with no "×" I find the bees don't like the cross section and I just pull the line like wire sideways. No glue on frames, but I do use the tight bond glue on the boxes. I just had a couple of pallets arrive by semi from Mann lake Thursday from my Black Friday purchase. David I've never had to wax the wedge. They build comb with out it and yes I love a jig for 10 frames at a time. Heck, David I just wanted to put my two cents in, to let you know that I still watch.
My uncle recently introduced me to beekeeping. It was a magical experience. I was blown away by the order in the hive and how they do it. Subbed to your channel immediately after. This winter I'll be ordering stuff and in the spring I will start my first hives. Thanks for your instructional videos. Excellent resource.
Agree with the HF nail gun. They just work. I’ve given up the nails as well. I do use a of Titebond 3. Maybe it’s not needed but I feel better with it.
That’s an interesting way to do starter strips. I never thought of that. The way I do it is I just take that cleat out and I rotate it 90 degrees and then I nail it back to the frame. I’ve also heard of people using popsicle sticks and nailing them to the frame. I’ve always done it this way and my bees have always drawn off the “cleat starter strip” just fine. I don’t even coat the strip in wax. I just alternate frames with a frame of wax foundation so they don’t cross comb the frames. I also mark the top of all of my foundationless frames so when I’m pulling them out I know to be more careful with them because the new fresh wax can break easily especially if you turn the frame parallel to the ground. But once the wax has had time to harden up and has been used a while it’s as solid as any foundation frame. I will note that I only use mediums. So I have no experience with deep foundationless frames.
Mahalo Dave. Me being the new-“bee” lol, really appreciate all the foundation information your giving brother. Huge mahalo for taking my call the other day too. Have a blessed Christmas. Aloha.
Lol. Well it’s rough this time of year. Lol. 80 degree rain this morning now just sun and fun. Lol. You gotta work your way out here one day brother. Hope all is well. Happy holidays. Aloha.
Gonna have to make a bee run from oviedo FL to your yard in the near future! I worked for a commercial bee man who rents his 800+ hives to almond growers in jan. Learned a lot. Got stung 3 times in 3 months there...bees like my "sweet personality" i guess! LOL
I have done my hives and franes just about the same with just a little extra. (I some times go overboard). I put a small dot of tit bond glue at each nailing point and then toe nail side piece into the top bar. this a sures me it wont pull apart when it is heavy laden with honey or bee glued in tight. Great technicues. Thanks
Great video David I need to get me one of those nail guns I can’t wait for spring it is 26 degrees here today and snowing. Hope all is well with you all down there.
David, I am curious why you don't use advantech for 8 and 10 frame. Is it cheaper for you to buy unassembled pine boxes and put them together? Is it less labor? Is it more sturdy? Or is it that you just don't need a lot of full- size hive bodies? Thank you so much for the plans for the nucs in your other videos, I have built some and I like them a lot. Merry Christmas!
Dave I staple my frames just as you do, however, I put 1 extra staple from the upper side bar into the top bar on each side of the frame. I feel it gives a little extra strength to frame especially when you pull a frame straight up from the hive?
@@davidhaught84 That is good! Also on the same page is putting cyanide into the frames by using those plastic sheets, but I guess You haven't figured that out yet. Also there is this white wood glue that has an acetate base, soluble in water. But You could try even some hot propolis used as glue if You just don't want to put any bad substances into the hive.. Just an idea.. All the best!
Hello David, I'm in real need of some shop advice. I put together my entire flow hive 2 and messed it up in a couple ways. For one, i stripped out a couple holes and am going to try adding a toothpick to help correct it. Yet I would like to ask help with another mistake I made. I did not use 90* angle corner clamps to make sure they set straight, and now the my base and two brood boxes don't line up with one another. So I have taken them all apart, order the brasses, yet don't know how to correct the screw holes that are already set? I feel like even with the brasses intact, the screws are going to go right back into the same hole pattern and the boxes will again be off centered. Someone told me I could try to slightly bend each screw. Or should I add toothpicks in all the holes then try to re-screw? What would you recommend? It would be so helpful to hear back from you. This is a project that is very important to me, as you well know. Thank you so much. Brad
How long are the advantec lasting? I have started building all.my boxes 5 and 10 frame out of advantec and would like to know is it is worth it in the long run.
D C Dave does a good job of providing education via RU-vid. You can learn a lot. There are beekeeping groups all over the UK. They can help you with bees as I don’t think Customs allows shipments of bees in most countries.