Tom i am an older train guy that restarted my train hobby by unboxing my old American Flyer Hudson and setting it up on a piece of 4X8 Plywood in my basement. today i have 20 engines all S Gauge, Most American Flyer from the 50s, some American Models. I use TMCC from Lionel and several MTH PS2/3. I have the old Cab 1 and MTH handheld. As you may know MTH is shutting down. I had not moved to Legacy because MTHs PS stuff was just so good. Now I am trying to complete a few more engines and I am unclear if there is a better path to take. I never considered DCC and really would likely never really use all it has to offer. I generally take the older engines and really Hot Rod them, with Fan Smoke, FireBoxes, LEDs and Warning lights. I make a lot of 3D Printed adapters and have started some 3D printed chassis'. But i want to find some good controllers that do not cost $150 and over per engine. And I had hoped to to be able to use TMCC and PS2/3 controls because I am invested in all that gear. Do you see a path for me in this mess? I probably have 10 years left to do trains and i just love making these engines. But i need a cost effective model control and sounds. I convert to DC Cans so 1 1/2 or 2 Amps is about the top for single engine. Dual Drive Diesels will pull more. I could be happy with just whistle/horn and bell with track side voices. So a button box could work. I am so behind i thought i could ask you for a a few options. Thanks, Dennis in Virginia A northern I build for a Col. in the Army, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YXRjsC1QQv8.html
Haven't heard anything definite yet, but MTH may be purchased by the employees. It's been a while since this came out, so I don't know if there is any updates to this rumer.
TOM, you talk about making a switching yard. Can you show and explain how you build a Straight Track build the yards by using Turnouts. What size do you use and and what is the radius of the turn, and what is the spacing between the tracks? ALSO how wide is your area?
Have you watched any of the videos pertaining to your queries? I don't recall talking about making a switch yard. This is about wiring. There are videos on track planning. You may get your answers there!
Thank you Tom for all of your video's, they have helped me a great deal with my track set up. I hope you continue with the videos they are are very informative and fun. I only hope to get where you are.
That sounds like a plan Mark! It will have to be when it's warm up there. I need a coat and long johns when it gets below 60 F. LOL Love the jingle you have. We need to put a melody to it!
First , thanks so much for all the informative videos. I have two questions about DCC wiring. First you mentioned the length of your layout and how your command station is in the middle making it just under the 20ft recommendations. Did you split your Bus line or how is that wired? Second . Is there anything special I need for the end of my BUS line(s).
I run my bus to a terminal board and split it from there. Later on I installed a PM42 to split up the districts. (Basically the same thing.) You do not need to do anything at the end of a run.
just getting back into the hobby after 50+ yrs.Like all of your video's, I am looking into buying a turntable for my iBLI Big Boy. what brand do you recommend and what powers the tracks in the roundhouse , where I have 9 stalls.
Walthers makes a couple of different sizes. Not sure if the longest one is big enough for your Big Boy. As for the track in the round house, run feeders to each track.
QUESTION ? with dcc is track power ac or dc ?? i have watched dozens of videos yours being among the best and nobody says what type of power the track is getting thanks
Tom Thanks for the great videos. I have been researching dcc systems for awhile now as I am building my layout, especially digitrax, NCE & MRC. I'd really like to get your opinion on what you'd recommend. My layout will be a double deck 10×30 with a 2 track main. I'll have two trains running the loop continuously for train watching...one train with 3 engines and the other with two. Most of the layout will be a steel mill with lots of switching done by 2 dedicated mill switchers. So that's a total of 7 locos, all with equipped with sound. I'll have probably no more than 2 operators. Definitely want wireless throttles. Any suggestions?
Depends on what bells & whistles you want with your system. They're all basically the same except for the price. Your command station should be centered in your system and you may need a booster depending the amperage draw of your locomotives especially with sound.
Hello Tom, I have been a subscriber of yours for some time and benefit from your nice videos. I am a rather rookie model railroader who was able to start the hobby only 2 years ago even though I had the dream of doing it for more than 40 years! I recently built an N scale layout with DCC system and can run my trains manually with no major issues. I am now ready to start with building the scenery, but I learned from a friend that I need to make blocks to be able to run the trains under computer control, which should obviously be finished before scenery. I know how to isolate track sections and how I can make the wiring of separate blocks, but I don't know how I should plan the blocking setup. I searched through your videos but could not find any related video. What I need to know is the logic behind blocking certain sections of track with respect to the layout. I can imagine I need to make blocks before a turnout, but don't know the necessary length of the block, how far should it be from the turnout, what extra blocking is needed when the trains are moving in the opposite direction, etc. Is there a video in which you explain the logic behind blocking track sections and how to plan the blocks with respect to a sample track layout? Thank you...
Vedat, thanks for watching my videos. Glad I could help. The terms "Block" is a DC term which had to be used to separate the sections of track so one could run more than one locomotive at a time. DCC is a little different concept. If you want to separate your track for purposes of detection of locomotives and signaling, there may not be too many videos out there, and the ones that are usually are not very informative. There are many different brands of signaling and detection board available from some of the DCC manufacturers if that is what you are looking for. A simple computer controlled system can be done with a free software called JMRI. It integrates with all DCC systems and you can control your entire model railroad from it. You can take a look at what is available form this software and then decide on what features of this you want to use, then from there you can decide what direction and components you will need. jmri.org/ Let me know if this is the direction you want to go in. I have a few videos on setting this up.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thank you for your prompt and informative response Tom. I think I should have told you that my current system is only composed of a Fleischmann booster and MultiMouse controller which I can control my 6 locos manually at this stage. I did not buy any signalling and detection equipment yet, with the thought that I should first make the setup digitally so that I can correctly decide which equipment I would need in what quantity. Upon your recommendation I have downloaded JMRI and managed to upload my layout I have created with AnyRail software into it, but I ended up in the same dead end street at that point. As far as I could make out, JMRI is similar to TrainController and iTrain programs which I have tried before, in the sense that they help you set up a digital version of your layout (or just an imaginary layout), and eventually program and control your trains . Trouble is, all these programs ask me how to configure the occupancy detection blocks and signalling in my layout, and this is exactly where I need help. I have several turnouts which make the tracks intermingled with each other, but not knowing how the system will behave, I don't know how much section of a track I should isolate so that an efficient and realistic occupancy detection can be created. For example I can imagine that I would need to make 2 blocks before a turnout, to first slow down the train before coming to a complete stop at a safe distance before the turnout. The same goes for a station too, but when I consider a train would come to that point from the opposite direction, my brain gives an error signal and I am lost totally. Any help will be appreciated...
@@vedatiplikci1332 Is your Fleischmann (GFN) DCC System that one with the small black booster box and the grey Multimouse? If yes, than you cannot read out CVs in general. That was a big problem of the old DCC System first time created by Roco decades before roco and Fleischmann (GFN) went thr same way with their digital DCC Systems. The former Austrian Roco and the former german Fleischmann (GFN) Companies are now owned by a together mother Company and providing together DCC Systems with similar components but different colours of their Multimouse handheld throttles. About the occupancy detection blocks are needed on DC , one block for breaking to reduce the train speed and one for stopping the train ahead the signal. On DCC layouts you will need to have a signal decoder what will give the signal aspect to the command station. If the signal shows red light, the the command station will proof where you train actually is. If your train will be ahead the signal, than the command station gives order to the loco decoder to break the train to a minimum speed and to stop ahead stop position signal aspect ahead the signal. For correctly detections you need to have additional detection units. Each detection unit can controlling multiple of detection blocks, i.e. the Digikeijs DR 4088 RB CS for 32 detection blocks is being available as starter set to use with Roco/Fleischmann R-Bus. Between two signals of each direction you will need to have 2 detection blocks. • 1rst Block the open track • 2nd Block the breaking block Each detection block need to be longer than your longest train. In the end stands your Block Signal. By using single line routes you don't have the typical block sections like onto double track lines. Onto single route lines the Block Station are inside Railroad stations or areas with parallel station tracks. Onto single line routes the automation of the railroad service is more complicated than onto double line service.
Thank you for your videos. I'm new to model trains and have learned a lot about the hobby. Keep up the great work I need it. I live in Tsmpa Fl do you know anyone there who would kind enough to help me get thru the whole process?. Again, thanks for the videos. I'll be watching.
Tom great info and I look at this all the time. I need some help , seems the items I have purchased are newer than what you guys have. So I have concerns on how to bridge them together. Do you have a email address I can send this lengthy email to?
Hi, Toms Trains and Things, I would like to know the best turnout Tracks switches I can use it with the LADDER TRACKS Layout HO Cod 100. For stage area, either Micro Engineering system or Atlas Custom line Mark V # 4. As DCC Friendly, Please advise me
Micro Engineering has a ladder track system of turnouts that allow you to put the turnouts closer together. Atlas is the low end of turnouts. Peco is a better choice.
@@TomsTrainsandThingsHi, Toms Trains and Things, I would like to thank you for your support to my request. I like to know the models and items numbers of Peco Turnout. Regards to you
hi Tom.. great over view of DCC systems... i was wondering if you can do a vid on how to use the programming terminals on my DCS 100 command station.. i can't find my owners manual.. any help would be appreciated.. vinny
Thanks Scott, you can add Digitrax throttles to the Zephyr through the LocoNet Port on the back, or if you have UP5's on your layout up to 10 throttles. The Zephyr is a command station/booster/ throttle all in one. If you have two Zephyrs, you can use one as a command station and one as a booster. This will increase the amperage available on your layout but not increase the total locos you can run.
Tom, what do you think of the Digitrax 20 amp power supply unit PS2012E? I was thinking of powering the led lights, on a different, and lower power supply.
Well, I thought I answered this one already but my answer isn't here. The 20 amp power supply is way too much power unless you have a club sized layout. I would go with one of their smaller power supplies.
Thanks for sharing Tom, I have a question, my railroad is DC with blocks about 16, if and when I switch to DCC will I need to run a buss wire or will my block wiring work as my buss wire?
Hi Randy, You should be good with your existing wiring as long as it's heavy enough. I have a chart in the video with the recommended wire sizes for each scale. You may have to add feeder wires closer than 16 ft apart since the demand of the DCC signal is higher than DC. The best way to judge that is once you hook up a command station, do the short circuit test to see if your system shuts down. When you do decide to go DCC, let me know and I be glad to help with any questions.
Hi Randy, by DC bus wiring you maybe laid copper wires with bigger diameter parallel to each other and did track feeding with smaller diameter cables or wires. Well in the DCC track bus is a little difference. You bus wires should be drilleded together and should be big enough in diameter that you can work with much more higher amperages than into DC wiring. The track feeder wire need to have the same diameter like the bus wires, because yiu are using a much more higher amperage to the track coming from your command station or booster. If your command station using an amperage between 1.8 A to 3 A than you need not to have too big diameter wires but if you are planning to upgrade your system later i.e. with more and higher power in ampere so you will need to have much more bigger wires in diameter. Some command stations working with 5 A or 8 A or up to 10 A, I think on the NCE SB5 system with 5 Amps or by using doubled Amperage up to 10 Amps. When using Digitrax 5 Amps or 8 Amps are possible, so your cables should work with it if you are using yourself for one of those systems.
Thank you Tom. Can the Booster Command Center be used for Programming. I have had Athans N Scale Big Boy 4-8-8-4 and have had trouble programming the locs. So I bought a booster but it doesn't help. So I am lost.
You can program with a command station but not a booster. Some manufacturers combine the command station with a booster like the Digitrax DB150 and Zephyr. What system are you using where your having problems?
Hey Tom, Thanks for your well done Video, I still subscrided to your channel. Me I am located in Luebeck, northern Germany modelling a small H0 standard Gauge modular Layout of a fictional private roadname based upon a former real existing local private railroad's branchline opened in 1883 to connect the seaside subburb with the inner city of the 15 miles long railroad (3 ⅕ Prussian Miles or 24 Km). I di modelling the period of time in the year of 1908 when Germany was an imperial monarchy under regency of the prussian king as German Kaiser Wilhelm 2nd a grandson of Queen Victoria of England. Regards, Ingo
@@TomsTrainsandThings Hey Tom, some additional Infos to my favourite railroad line. I am modelling the summer of 1908 but my fictional railroad the private L.T.E. RR is like an industrial short line between the subberb Travemouth and the inner City of Luebeck. In german language the E in my roadname stands for Eisenbahn = Railroad. So the Luebeck Travemouth Eisenbahn would be translated into US english as Luebeck Travemouth Railroad or shortened as L.T. RR.! Well this shortline servicing the seaside subburb Travemouth with its fictional railroad traject station via the villages in direction to the Inner City former small Union Station built in 1852 with only one and later two platforms only. A lot of industrial freight service is needed in addition to the passenger service, too. So an Iron foundry, some Fish Canneries, a Tie Sawmill and of course a busy Slaughterhouse with a car expedition of around 30 meat cars, daily are a few of the around local industries. A very interesting and busy shortline. In the period of time between 1899 and 1908 there was a big railroad test to make studies of using a more better knuckle coupler than the Janney Coupler had been done at the Prussian State Railroad and some other railroads did this test, too, like even my roadname, too. So I can use Kadee Couplers for better model RR service based upon the prototypes, too (not real in this area but it could probably be), a little bit of freelancing is even allowed, too on a fictional railroad. I do using the Roco/GFN z21 Start Comnand Station with the cable wired grey Multimouse as handheld throttle. This DCC System is a little different to the JMRI LocoNet DCC System and is being based upon the Roco DCC System with 3.2 Amps in maximum. For my small RR roster more than enough. Consisting Locos I can do via ,,Advanced Consisting" using CV 19, only, that works very good of course. Yes, it is a lot of fun. Regards, Ingo
Hi Tom; Once again, looking for some suggestions. I have been through the playlists, and not able to find what I am after. I am converting to DCC with Digitrax DCS51, also using 1 AR1, / 1 DS64 and have ordered a BD4. I also have a BXPA1, but it strikes me as a glorified AR1... not using it currently. The DS64 currently runs 3 switches, and of course the AR1 looks after my reverse loop. I do not have any locomotives that have DCC Sound. I do have a few straight DCC Locomotives from Trainworld. My question is - " How can I get train sound or crossing signals in certain areas as the train passes through, and then shuts off after the train has left the area?" There are so many amazing videos that show these type detected processes. Just don't know where to start. Best Regards; Daryl Hitchcock.
Get rid of the Ar 1 and use the BXPA 1, it's much better. The AR 1 are slow to respond and sometimes stall the locomotive . I have 4 of them and everyone does the same thing. Started buying the BXPA 1 to replace them, much better. As far as what your looking for with the sound, send me a link of the video where you saw this. I am not aware of the automatic operation of whistles at a grade crossing with a decoder. Soundtraxx has a grade crossing logic, but you still have to actuate the feature with your throttle.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Hi Tom; Please see video link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s_ZlMpMlwvc.html This my 3rd attempt to reply, don't know if the first 2 went to you. Anyway, I thought the optic sensor could also trigger a small sound module, that could time out after 10-15 seconds. Or possibly a second optic sensor to shut off and reset the light signal. After watching your BXPA1 video, I will changing the AR1 out. Could the detection circuit from the BXPA1 be utilized in any of this. Thank You. Best Regards; Daryl Hitchcock.
I suggest you ask the person who did the video. He did not turn off comments on the video prior to this one. The detection on the BXPA1 is only a high or low signal on the pins while the locomotive is in the reversing circuit. It changes as the loco leaves. Pretty useless as far as I'm concerned. I stated Digitrax's response for it in the video.
Ground wires for what? Both DC & DCC only use 2 wires and the polarity is controlled by the power pack in DC & in DCC the signal from the base station determines the direction of travel. The only place a ground wire may be required is from the Base Station of a Digitrax system to a PM 42 where the instructions tell you to put one.
OK I can see that you did this video back in 2017. I was lead to believe that you could use a NCE controller on digatrac and vicea a versa. has that change or have I been mislead?
i was wondering since Im using Atlas Jointed Rail aka Section Rail. How would i be able to do to dcc?. Would I have to solder every 3-4 rails to wire it or every rail?.
Or another option is, if you don’t want to drop feeders every track section, the try soldering the rails themselves together. The rule I’d follow is, every piece of track either has feeder wires, or is soldered to another piece.
You can keep your existing wiring and just remove the old power pack. Here's a good video to get you started: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-poQbwVhzyhs.html&feature=emb_logo
Super well done video Tom with great explanations. The level of detail is really helpful, especially to someone like myself just getting into DCC . I have a question, that would be a little too long for a comment on here so I just sent you a direct message (via email) regarding this topic. Thanks. Philip
Tom; I have a Digitrax 210 command station,I also have a Digitrax 150 command/booster station... my question is: Can I use the 150 as a booster for the 210?
Hi Terry. The DB 150 can be used as a command station or a booster. To use it as a booster place a jumper between Config A and Ground. If you have the DCS 210 you can use the DB 150 as a booster. If you have the DB 210, no, that unit is a booster.
The DCS210 features: Full LocoNet Capabilities for easy plug ‘n' play installation and system expansion Run up to 100 locos and 100 throttles in command station mode. Provides additional power to run more trains in booster mode. Can be used as an Intelligent Auto Reversing Booster Use with any LocoNet throttle Read/Write programming with CV readback Two DCC outputs so you can run your trains and program at the same time. Built in 5/8 Amp Digital Command Control Booster to give you maximum power Many command station options are user customizable. Pushbutton Routes & Clear Loco Stack. Auto resetting over temperature & short circuit protection. User selectable multi-scale operation for N, HO, and large-scale layouts with custom voltage trim Track Status indicator shows voltage and signal type (DCC or “Zero Stretch” Analog Signal for conventional operation.) Stabilized Track Drive Output. Over Voltage Protected. Auto shutdown on signal loss to prevent “runaway” trains Complies with FCC Part 15, Class B RFI Requirements. DCC Compatible.
No problem Terry. Do you already have the DCS 210 or looking to purchase one? If you already have it; how do you like it and how does it compare to the DB 150? Other than more power!
Thanks Don. I noticed that in a few spots once I had the video already uploaded. I record some of my videos on my laptop using web cams and OBS which has always been a good performer, but lately my laptop is slowing down from age. I even performed a clean install of Windows 7 and still having issues. It's about time to upgrade my equipment but that has to wait till after the first of the year. Being out of sync is common in live broadcasts whenever there is an issue with bandwidth. The video portion requires more bandwidth so it lags behind the audio even when the speed is good. I have 120Mbps+ download and 30Mbps+ upload speeds and still have issues on occasion. Sometimes it's on RU-vids end!
Just a question. I own HO scale trains. I've been going DC. Now, I'm considering DCC. Question: say I have 4 trains: the locomotive, freight, tanker and caboose. I realize that the locomotive MUST be DCC-ready but must the other three be DCC-ready? Sorry for the dumb question. Can anyone help?
DCC equipped locos work well on DC. Do not try to run an analog loco on DCC. And don't tell me about Digitrax pulse stretching. You will still overheat your loco.
Please, please, help me. I just bought a few items to run a DCC layout. I have, the Bachmann "your first railroad track pack" EZ track nickel silver layout, a Bachmann DCC sound locomotive, and NCE Power Cab DCC starter kit, and a Tech 7 ampac 780 (that I do not believe I need). All these were sold to me by a sales person at a store. I've heard that the NCE power cab does not go well with the EZ track system? What am I missing? Do I have everything I need to run my DCC locomotive on the layout? The Power Cab is a power source and command center for multiple locomotives? I'll truly appreciate any guidance with setting it up. Thanks in advance!
Hi Sid. The NCE Power Cab, a DCC Locomotive, and ANY track is all you need to run your DCC layout. If the salesman sold you the Tech 7 along with the other items, you need to take it back, get your money back, and complain to the owner of the hobby shop. They sold you a DC power supply with DCC equipment. Where is this place? Watch my other videos on DCC to get an idea of what you will need to do. Even though I use Digitrax, it's basically the same. I have a couple of Playlists where you can find these videos.
Thank you so much for your prompt reply, Tom! I'll take it back. Looks like they only give store credit even for unopened boxes so I guess I'll make it count towards a steam engine locomotive with sound, yippee! (any suggestions which one?) But first, I need to hook this one up. I'm from the Marklin world for several years so this is my first time with a different brand. Once again, thanks for your reply and I'll post some more questions if I get stuck.
[Where is this place?] I'd rather not take the name. I'll give that salesman the benefit of the doubt. Maybe he didn't know. I'm going to ask for a refund because they are the ones who messed it up.
Your welcome Sid. What ever locomotive you decide on make sure it falls within your plans of how you want your layout. If you run into problems along the way, don't hesitate to ask. I'll be glad to help.
Hey Tom, so this link, cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/218446.aspx, kind of scared me. Anything I need to be worried about before I open up the NCE Power Cab and EZ Track layout? The track layout I have is only tracks, there is no power source. Hope I'm not missing anything else.
Nuts ! You can have multiple trains operating simultaneously on a 12v DC Analogue layout, and at a fraction of the cost of DCC. But in reality the problem is the Human Brain. It can't operate more than one train at a time, unless you want to start turning your expensive model locos into test crash dummies !!!!
DCC is much more than running multiple trains. Lighting, sound, operating turnouts all from the throttle. You can program the bell & whistle to come on when the loco starts, and the appropriate whistle upon stopping. You can program different rates of speed on increase & decrease. If you tried doing that with DC, you would end up spending 10X what a DCC set costs. DCC++EX does more than DCC and can be assembled with all the components for under $60. How much os a dual transformer, which BTW reduces the output of each throttle.
