Thank you for this very thorough step by step video. I was bummed when my steering went out but with this video it helped me fix the issue without being to mechanicaly inclined !!
Thanks for the video. My Horse XP's steering started slipping this week and your video gave me enough info to pull the shaft and get my parts ordered! Happily, my shaft was secured with a hex bolt and not a #3 phillips screw!
Getting ready to perform this exact job. Thank you for your detailed breakdown of everything involved. I did get all my parts from parts tree for this on my craftsman T1100.
Here's a tip if you're like me an can't afford to replace it I just adjusted the wheel gear closer to the shaft. It worked great for another year before I fully replaced it.
Thank God, I caught this problem on my on my 2006 Troy Bilt pony before it started doing major damage. I am going to grease the crap out of that shaft bearing before I reassemble it. I don’t believe that I will have to replace the shaft because it will still turn, but it just has some play in the steering
Hopefully you’ll get lucky and you won’t have to just remember. Don’t try to turn it really really hard. Make sure you have proper air pressure in your tires too. Good luck. Thanks for watching.
Just did the tha same thing on the exact mower but i had to replace both gears the bushing and the drive belt..the belt was a pain the ass the steering was not bad..i did everything from the bottom i have a mower lift.. the one i worked on was a 12 don't forget to grease the bushing try to use graphite grease ..lol..Cheers friend sorry i missed your live stream again 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Great video. You can also cut the zip ties from around the gas tank which will allow you to remove the old shaft from the bottom of the bracket without taking it off and install the new one the same way. That's if you have a bunch of zip ties laying around like I do lol
The draw back to MDT built is something Always breaks. But for the most part they are relatively easy to fix. I just did the exact same thing with our Troy Bilt Pony. It's definitely a job! Hardest part was trying to break that no.3 Phillips screw that connects the shaft to bushing. I had to use a pair of knipex to break it loose.
Yes, that is the good thing because almost everybody has an MTD mower sitting in their backyard somewhere. I have had to use an impact screwdriver on that stupid number three bolt.
Repair manual calls for a Ph #4 driver bit..... I used a Ph# 3 like you and it started stripping. Had to order a #4 from Amazon.....(and had to remove the deck and flip mower on the side, to reach that nut.
98% of mowers built by MTD are the same, this includes Troy Built, Bolens, Cub Cadet, some lower line John Deere, plus some store brands like Ranch King , and Craftsman, also to note, the last few years of Murray and Snapper, (sold by Walmart) were also built by MTD
Hi! Great video. I have watched several videos concerning steering today. Your was the only one that I could see exactly how it done. The only question I have is, is their any reason why none show anyone greasing the bushing or flanges?
That’s a good question. I don’t really know. It’s pretty straightforward to do. You can even rub a little grace along those teeth of those gears. It absolutely could not hurt. Thanks for watching by the way.
Good video , thanks. question...why does my troy bilt turn sharp to the right but less sharp to the left. it used to be even. did that gear slip maybe? or is there some adjustment?
There could be somewhere on that spacer or the hole that the spacer fits in might have worn some. I would also look at the control arms in front of the tires and see if one has been bent possibly and make sure you have the same tire pressure I would do the tire pressure first and check The control arms because that’s an easy cheap fix 50 and then look for the more expensive an exotic problem
Super helpful, I got all the way through the install, my screw and washer on the underside of the shaft threads out when the wheel turns (even with red loctite that came on the screw). Any idea how to fix and keep it from unthreading?
I had this problem too. I also have a super small amount of up and down play in my steering wheel(bolts are super tight) and it allows the washer flange to pop out sometimes.
I got everything off without much problem. When I put it back together I put the bearing shaft flange on with the hex down thru the hole the shaft goes thru and it fits tight. I took the screw and washer and installed on the bottom of the shaft. All went fine BUT there is enough up and down play where the hex flange lifts out of the frame which lets the gears slip.What did I miss? Any help is appreciated.
@@BustersRyder I tried to do the same but when I tighten it all up works fine then when I turn left I think it will break my bolt loose and make it all loosen up then bolt will fall out I've even loctited it
And one more thing I just wanted to say thanks for the very educational and knowledgeable video.. I've never owned a riding mower until now but I will be looking for more videos I'm having to learn all this myself my dad would never teach me these things but big THANKS
i have the shaft that doesn't have that bracket at the top my problem is the pan after i replaced hex nut still slipping and there is a lot wear slop there so its still not gripping the gear after i replaced the hex and the bottom gear any advice on what to do once that pan gets wallowed out. i think the model I have used to have some kind of plastic bushing that is obsolete maybe that's what's suppose go in that hole keep steering shaft from moving around. i am at loss on how to fix it
@@Mayhemcountryliving THANKS FOR RESPONDING IT ACUTALLY DIDNT HAVE A PLASTIC ONE IT WAS METAL BUT HOLE WAS WOLLERED OUT SO BAD I GOT NEW ONE IT WONT WORK I MAY HAVE TO WELD IT OR PIECE PLATE METAL.
I replaced hex bushing and my shaft is still loose up and down I added a washer and it will tighten up good but the steering will be stiff then it breaks the bolt free and will just rattle out?? Loctite still broke loose
@@bobbyraywallace6785 yeah I'm still just mowing with it kill it tighten it back up over over and only turning big right circles it's about to drive me crazy
I also cut a piece off my plastic cutting board and made a washer for the bolt in the shaft I did replace that b.s. screw with a bolt and the bolt will tighten up but it will still let it spin on the cutting board washer and loctite but it only lasted long enough to cut the yard once in right turns only
I'm ready to go find an old mower with a good deck and put my engine on it, never heard of any problems with the steering until I got this Bronco Troy Built! They need to fix the problem or they're gonna lose business! 👍
Great video did you have to add locite to steering wheel bolt up top. I changed mine other day the stripped phillips head screw was a pain.. I wound up drilling the head off.
Replaced the steering shaft and hex bearing, still had problems, took half moon gear off and spacer under plate was worn. Can't find any videos of replacing the spacer? Forgot if spacer goes on top of gear or underneath? Help my 2017 Troy-Bilt Bronco...
What issues was this causing? I'm having issues where the gear teeth aren't close enough to the new shaft. So slipping is still occuring. I am wondering how I can move that half moon gear closer.
@@joshharper1027 new steering shaft works for about 4 mowings then as always you try to go left and the steering shaft starts slipping and tearing up the teeth on the steering shaft. I can go Right just fine but No steering to the Left. I've went through 6 steering shafts in 2 summers and can't do it anymore, too expensive! Troy Built needs to fix their problem!
@@Stepfanie81 My solution was that I bought another lawnmower on FB marketplace and then sold my mower to the same guy. I came out of the deal paying $220 and getting rid of that troy bilt mower. I would highly recommend taking a gamble and trading your mower for something other than troy built. otherwise, the actual solution is to drill out a bigger hole and put that shaft as close to those other gears as possible. But then to create some type of apparatus that keeps it in place. It's just not worth the time or the money to do it.
Had the same issue. It just chewed up another shaft. I think it might be the whole steering assembly getting sloppy, or that “bearing” is crap and the bolt holes are getting elongated. How long did this last for you?
A bearing kit for the steering and wheels. I am thinking that there are no bearings on the front end. Might just be adding up the resistance over time. So the bearing kit is about the same price as a steering spindle kit. It would be nice to install (another) steering shaft and have it last.
@@Stuff_happens They may still make spacer inserts that help with any kind of looseness or play in the front end. I don’t know if they still make honest-to-goodness bearings for them but I do remember them making inserts basically plastic sleeves. I have actually made some myself out of PVC get a 6 inch piece cut a slit lengthwise that’s big enough to compress and then cut it to fit
Man, I dunno if you can help me out with this one. I'm in the middle of this same proceedure (but also replacing the steering rack gear (ie the other gear the steering gear mates to), and a few other odds and ends but I cannot for the life of me get the damn steering wheel off! I have tried beating it, pulling it, spraying it down with penetrant and leaving overnight and it will just.. not.. budge..
Sometimes they can be pretty dang tough you might be able to fit a gear puller on there after you take them screw it out if you can access it to where the steering wheel spline fits over the steering column warm it up a little bit with a propane torch it might be hard to do because of the plastic on the steering wheel. I have lifted them up just off the ground by the steering wheel just enough off the ground where the front wheels aren’t touching and then tap it with a hammer
@@Mayhemcountryliving I don't have a torch and just like you said it's gonna melt that plastic. I think at this point it's time to take out the angle grinder, cut the shaft off to probably about an inch out of the back of the steering wheel, then my strategy will be to sit it on an oversized socket on the bottom on the floor, put the bolt half way in the front of the steering wheel and bang it out that way. If I can't get it that way, hell.. Sounds like it's time for another steering wheel or something.
what is the torque setting to use on the steering wheel nut and the nut holding the small steering pinon gear. No mention of this in video. Also how do you fix the octagon hole that the hex flange bearing inserts into the frame when it's worn out? Otherwise good video
No idea as to torque spec. Doesn’t really matter on something that old and worn . Other than building up the area that’s going wallowed out or putting washers above and below it I do not know of any way to do it. You might try building up that area JB weld and inserting not. That’s making it
Thank you so much for this video! My Craftsman T110 lawn Mower was manufactured in 2019, and my steering just now started to slip. I could not find where the play was coming from. Now that I see your video, I see it's my flange nut at the bottom of the shaft is worn. I ordered a flange nut and the washer underneath brand new from parts tree. Since my shaft is just now starting to slip, I don't think I need to replace it. Shouldn't I put a little grease in between the shaft and the flange nut to try to reduce the friction? Great video! Thank you so much for taking your time!
@@Mayhemcountryliving Can you tell me how in the heck to remove philips screw from bottom of steering shaft? I have the right Philip's bit to fit but dont wanna slip and strip it. I'm thinking its gotta have loctite in it or something. Maybe heat the lower shaft with propane and try?
@@Mayhemcountryliving Happened to get lucky. It slowly backed out of shaft. Easy replace, but what a junk design! I better order a few more "hex bearings" now, so I have almost no downtime. Thanks for your help!
you skipped over exactly how you went about removing the #3 phillips screw from under the mower. did you flip the mower back to access the underside? if so, how far backwards can you plip the mower? worried about oil and gas going everywhere if flipped too far backwards
I have laid there and been able to get that screw out with a really good pair of channel locks or vice grips after it is soaked for a day or so so all you would need to do is probably remove the deck just to get comfortable. If you worried a lot about all foul and go ahead and drain the oil out and hoist it up about a foot or so that should give you plenty of room to use like a really good impact screwdriver
@@Mayhemcountryliving well, you skipped over the part I needed, but the rest of the video was great. Just needed to know about getting that one bolt out because it seems everyone struggles with it.
Murray if you had removed the gas tank then taken a grinder with a metal cutting disk, you could have cut that bracket holding the steering wheel shaft in front of the shaft and move the shaft out without removing the bracket!!!!
I replaced my steering shaft twice already. 1st time it worked fine for 5 years now this time i replaced the Phillips screw with a bolt and every time i turn the steering wheel the bolt comes loose and unthreads. Anyone else had this issue? How can i fix it to where the replacement bolt/screw on bottom on the shaft dosen't come loose?
I can’t seem to get the #3 Phillips screw off the bottom of the mower. Any tips? I’ve sprayed it down with WD-40 a couple of times and had it sitting for a couple of hours.
@@Mayhemcountryliving I wound up stripping it out with a drill. I figured that would happen though. I used a dremel to grind off the head of the screw. I let the rest of the screw that was still in the steering shaft sit in WD-40 overnight and used a pair of channel locks to get it out. I’m gonna replace the steering shaft (which is worn but the hex flange bearing isn’t for some reason), the steering shaft cap, and replace the screw with a bolt. Very helpful video though. Thanks
Can someone help me? steering been replaced 3x on my 2011 Horse XP (again this month) How can i prevent this from happening in the future? I read something about lubricating the wheel shafts or bearings? Any advice on preventative maintenance for this?
Well the slop is what I want to fix! If changing those parts out isn't going to fix that, then it's a waste of my time and I might as well just drive the damn thing until it snaps in two! Is there no way of fixing that excessive play?😢
You mean the gear on the shaft and the flat plate at the bottom with the teeth? Mine is the same one as in the video it's a 2012 pony, you got to turn the steering wheel about half a turn before it will even engage the front tires to move.. talk about a safety issue I'll tell you what😮
I bought a replacement shaft from Amazon for $35. Fit great. BUT..... the f....ckin' screw keeps unscrewing itself when I turn!!! I haven't tried Loctite yet, but has anyone had success with Loctite? Reading this thread, it appears like even it doesnt work.
I put everything together like you said but why does the screw at the bottom keep coming out? It does fine for a while then the screw comes loose and no steering.
I sprayed it and let it sit then I would tap it with a good heavy hammer and twist and pull on the steering wheel at the same time over and over so you would tap on the top of the steering wheel and spray everything then you would tap from the screw side on the bottom if you’re trying to get the Phillips screw by the way that’s a number three Phillips off the bottom you can kiss it with a propane torch heat that thing up a little bit and tap it dead center and see if that helps
@@Mayhemcountryliving Arms are like jello from tryin to get the wheel off yesterday... still stuck, let it sit all night with some Liquid wrench on it I'll try it again today.. Actually got the Screw out really easy.,
Today's mowers are junk. All of them...Idiotic "engineering", cheap poor quality parts, constant work...All made to be disposable. My American made Simplicity lasted me 40 years trouble free. Even the seat and the belts. Match that China. Why didn't they use a real bearing on the bottom of that shaft instead of soft bushing that lasts 1 season?
Kind of looks like a Murray design but not as good. I have a Murray wide body LT that I used to cut my grass and it seemed like about every 3 months I have to readjust the steering. Could be better designed.
@@Mayhemcountryliving I think that I know now why you didn't show the #3 screw being removed from the end of the shaft: mine is frozen solid! Will have to cut/grind it off. Did you have to cut yours off, too?
Troy Bilt Lawn Mowers are garbage. I bought mine brand new in 2013 and from year one, something broke on it just about every time I had to mow. If it wasn't the PTO / Deck Engage handle and cable, it was throwing the Deck Drive Belt off or the Deck Bearings and Pulleys. The Steering System has ridiculous slack in it brand new, so a piss-poor design. Unfortunately, a poor working bastard like myself has to settle for This kind of crap because we can't afford a $4000 Kubota Zero Turn. This Company should be put out of business because you will wind up spending twice or three times the price of the machine in the end.
If you take care of them, keep the front wheels greased, keep the steering gear greased & oiled, the deck pulleys, even though they say they are sealed, keep the blades sharp, change the oil every year, you’ll do a little work to it once a year but it sure beats the heck out of spending $3000 for an expensive but cheaply made newer one nowadays
absolutely terrible video. showed you guys nothing about what you need to do to remove the steering shaft. This video is worthless. To see how it's actually done you're going to need to click on someone else's video. Maybe this guy should just post a video on how to change your socks
