Thank you I definitely feel more empowered to develop at home. Just shot a roll of hp5 today for the first time in 10 years. Feeling inspired after watching to invest in home developing
This video is so relaxing and chilled. You make doing this look enjoyable. I've traveled a lot of roads in my 64 years of photography and artwork. Today I use HC-110 developer too. All things considered it's the best for me. I also have abandoned the extreme agitation methods. For decades all anyone used are those little agitator sticks like you demonstrated. I ruined a lot of film with too aggressive agitation.
Thanks for showing the film loading onto the reel in daylight using a dummy roll. I have a darkroom class tonight and am self-developing my first rolls and was curious how it was done!
Thank you! Finally somebody made a video what happens inside the dark / changing bag! I personally think it's way too much work compared to the costs of a lab. I pay roughly €5,- to get my photos developed within an hour (C41 that is). With all the tools you need and the amount of time it takes it's just not worth it for me.
It actually takes about 15 mins to develop a roll of C41. If you have two rolls in the tank, then you can develop 2 rolls in 15 mins. It's much quicker than b/w. If you buy a 5 litre kit, it comes to about £0.20/ roll. If you shoot 2-3 rolls a month home developing is the best way to go.
I think you are exaggerating the amount of work and tools necessary. Once you do a dozen of rolls it gets pretty easy and second nature. It’s like cooking :)
Leaving costs aside, what you miss is the amount of control and experimentation that you can do on your own: choice of developer, developer dilution, duration, agitation scheme, etc... It's all part of the fun.
Thanks a lot for the great video. I really appreciate your efforts, I used the C41 tutorial one to one and it worked perfectly. Black and white film will be the next project, but that shouldn't be a problem with the tutorial here. Keep up the good work :)
Ilford does not recommend to pre-wash because they have a special layer with wetting agent on the film to ensure an even development. With pre washing you will remove this layer which might (!!) lead to uneven development, according to Ilford.
Great video tutorial👍 I must say tho Whatever you do, NEVER taste fixer I involuntarily put my finger in my mouth while it was drenched in fixer It tasted like rotten eggs that have been vomited into a cup of urine (don’t ask)
I'd like to start developing my HP5 this year. Is this process still your preferred method since this is 3 years old now. Also, can someone explain why it is pushed to 1600? Is it shot at 400 then developed at 1600? Pushing is new to me.
Hi. A short question. I don't know if I'm there already to develop by myself and have few rolls to do it. As you are located in Germany and I'm in Luxembourg, I wanted to ask if you could recommend any lab that I could send the rolls so they will develop and scan them (few 35, few 120mm). You advice will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for the wonderful videos on film photography. I have one question: if I want to overexpose by one stop, what is the difference in end result if I overexpose the film by one stop and then develop it at box speed as opposed to exposing the film at box speed and then push one stop in developing?
Despite what it says on the box, Ilford HP5+ (and Kodak Tri-X) are 160 asa films (Ansel Adams, Barry Thornton et al) Why not try to get the very best negative possible instead of the very worst. Just a couple of rolls of B&W film in your Leica at optimum asa. Barry Thornton recommends half the box speed developed in Ilford Perceptol 1+2 dilution, this would make an interesting video. Thanks for your content, I am a subscriber.
mamiyapress Interesting, would this then involve overexposing to 160 (and keeping dev times for 400), or pulling it to 160 (thus changing dev time as well)?
@@therealsirrobin Than makes absolutely no sense. If you push film you are Underexposing it which you should never do to negative film. I think I will unsubscribe to keep my sanity.
@@mamiyapress tri-x has been reformulated several times since the days of Ansel, most recently in 2007. In what sense are they “160 ASA films”? If you don’t like the grain of tri-x, shoot a slower film, or tmax.
I wonder why are you using so much developer for a single film? The number s confused me then I realised you’re using 500ml. Paterson tanks only need 290ml for a single film (9ml of dev)! Who knows, maybe it does something magical …!
