I did a swap a few years ago, and it's kind of scary how quick and easy it is. Flywheel and clutch takes seconds, slide the trans in, a few bolts on the housing, slap the drive shaft on, a couple air lines for the stick shift and you're done.
Thanks for the little bit of a heads-up I got a 13 speed that it will go into high range but you're not able to split the high range gears. This kind of gives me a little bit of a heads-up preciate it
Hey bud good vid bud the front of the countershaft is actually low split not high split. when the splitter dog is in the gear its in now is high split. I specialised in building truck transmissions
Chris Robinson - That makes sense. I was wondering about the gear diameters. The low split countershaft gears have to be larger. But how does the drive gear in the center move between the two pairs of gears which are of different diameters? Do the countershafts move sideways when shifting the splitter?
I’m having issue with my transmission I purchased my truck with a 13speed originally was supposed to be 9 speed been driving it for a year new clutch has 10k miles on an issue occurred out of nowhere n never stopped if I’m driving in 7 high or 8 high truck rpm surge n truck jerks if anyone can helps really appreciated put to much money in this truck paid a lot of money diagnostics mechanics keep saying keep driving till something breaks
Great video! Very informative. Do you happen to know the specs for the air pressure supply to the air cylinders? I want to test that before I open up my transmission. Anything else that a person should check for external issues? Thanks.
He got one thing wrong !! The five gears that we see out of the castin are for the low range of the spliter only because high side of the spliter is just direct drive into the gear as it is on the video ! So in 8H your input shaft turn the same speed as the drive line !
Should there be an play in the rear yoke when twisting? Also when in reverse or slow acceleration under heavy load I have a chatter. Any idea what might be wrong?
Same here took the drive shaft off . in neutral turn driveshaft left and right and it will clunk left and right no in and out play . I put it in top gear high at idle no driveshaft just trans spinning at idle speed and it makes. A racket. Im at the point i want to replace the "bad parts" i have the skill just dont know where id go to pay someone to get the box rebuilt.
Does changing 9 speed eaton to 13 double overdrive cause low gear to be higher. Its like I'm taking off in 3rd gear or something. If I change it back to regular nine will it lower first gear or should I say low gear so I can take off better without having to ride the clutch and press throttle half way down
The tapered bearings indicate its a 7 series !!! 6 series use ball and straight roller bearings !!! AND 13 speeds have the unsyncronized splitter gears recessed in the back of the rear case. THE TRANS IN THE VIDEO IS FROM A 18 SPEED NOT A 13.
Hey buddy I have issue with a splitter on a 18 speed Transmission. Hi/low range range works but the splitter doesn't seems to work at all. Any suggestions. Thanks
One thing I've never understood is the transmissions torque range. There's the 1250, 1450, 1650, and 1850. What is inside the transmission that determines torque rating and what might happen if you mismatch engine - transmission? Example might be if engine is 1650 but transmission is only rated for 1450 or visa-versa if engine is 1450 and transmission is rated 1650. I have a 1550 torque rated transmission and want to have engine ECM re-rated to 1650-lb.ft and don't know if I can still use my 1550 transmission or need to change out. I really want to swap my 10-speed direct transmission to either a 13 or an 18 speed overdrive which creates another problem with rear-end ratio's. It was so easy in the old days when all trucks used a 3.70, 3.90, or 4.11 rear ratio and dump trucks used a 4.44 but now there are a thousand different ways a truck can be spec'd. My truck uses a 2.64:1 rear-end ratio with 22.5LP rubber. Good fuel mileage but no balls.
yeah, I would guess the internal differences are just size of gears being beefier to handle the extra torque, but i dont know. I do know with the ecm controlled engines the power band is much wider and thats why almost everything runs 10 speeds over the road. the few exceptions are the offroad guys moving dump trailers and the heavy haul guys over the road. the old mechanical's as you know have very narrow power bands and thats why you needed all them gears, so you dont end up on your face. just curious are you planning on re-rating your engine soon, and if you are is it a higher mileage unit? I have seen that often when guys buy a used truck that has been run 300-500k at say 375hp with no problems and they buy it and up the horses and next thing they know is they need an inframe done. i would consider running it until you need that inframe and up the hp after it is done. thanks for commenting!
When I bought this truck 7-years ago (2010) it was set at 370-Hp. I took it to Clarke Diesel and had it uprated to 430-Hp. He said that was as high as the ECM would allow him to go without reflashing. That was at 665,000 miles. A year ago (2016 March) at 1,012,000 miles I thought I had a failed injector and took it back to Clarke for a cut-out test. After a couple of hours the tech informed me I needed two cyl-kits due to failed rings. So a top to bottom in-frame was performed. Four months later 2016 July, a head gasket failed and they re-did the work at their cost. Now a year later and about 67,000 on rebuild, I want to increase Hp/Toque ratings and they said I needed a reflash which would cost more than $2,200. I am considering it and if I do, I am thinking of changing transmission and rear-ends for the higher ratings. When I bought this truck, first thing I asked was "has this truck been wrecked"? They said no. Two years later I was changing an interior overhead light and found a piece of paper between the inner-outer roof shell. It was the rebuild sheet from an unnamed shop that rebuilt truck from ground up from a serious 120-mph roll-over crash in Iowa in 2007 which the hood, bumper, condo fiberglass top were ripped off, and all axles under rails ripped from mounting hangers. Therefore I assume the engine was running upside down which somehow damaged engine. The company I bought truck from went out of business in Feb 2012. It's a good truck now that I've replaced or rebuilt everything but had I known about the roll-over in 2010, I would not have bought this truck. She's now good for another million miles. I love my Detroit DDEC4 12.7L engine.
Clutch determines power trans can hold if you replace clutch be shire to match torque of engine with rated torque of clutch 2nd is driveline size has everything to do with torque ratings this was my job at Kenworth dealer for many years and still doing it
13 speed splits high range only so only splits gears 5, 6, 7, and 8 but the 18 speed splits both high and low range gears so splits all gears, 1,2,3,4,5,6,7, and 8
Hi Sr, I have problems with my Eaton Fuller 13 Speed from 13 to 12 and from 11 to 10 it'is making a little sound and i found remains of metal in the filling plug. What do you think is happening ?thank you .I will be waiting for your aswer.
Hello, I see that you have great knowledge about transmission and I was wondering if you could help me out with some advice... I have a problem with my 13 speed (RTLO18913A). When I'm in 5H and preselect L to go into 6L, occasionally instead of releasing it so I can pull the handle into 6, it shifts back into 5L as soon as I move my leg of the pedal. Of course it makes a big bang every time that happens. The whole transmission was rebuilt 2 months ago mostly because of this problem but the shop that did it doesn't know what could be the problem. I have replaced slave valve and it's still happening. Do you have any idea what could it be?
Does the top plate have to come off to get that back gear box off? I need to change the Synchronizer in my 8LL but I want to do it in the truck like your doing here if possible.
thats the 4ton. it works just fine, i cant see how hein werner can charge that much for a jack. im all about american made but I cant wrap my head around that kind of pricing. plus for 275 its not a big deal to weld a custom bracket for jobs like this that i did. only thing you have to do is swap the zerk fittings for american zerks. i dont know what kind of Chinese crap comes with it but no grease gun Ive ever had fits it.
Hello sir i need to drop the rear of the tranny to put a new seal i saw you built the 2 pieces to hold the gears on place can you help me out with measurements and bolt size and thread please thank you so much
yes, class 6,7,8 trucks use air pressure for brakes, fan, horn, transmission, suspensions, diff locks, 5th wheel slide, 5th wheel lock, seats, dumptruck tail gate locks, pretty much anything and every thing. the old units even used air starters for the engines- those didnt last that long.
My Eaton 18 speed failed a while back and my boss put in an Eaton 13-speed I still have the 18 speed shift head though can you still split a 13 in low range or will that damage anything
I've always wondered the same thing. I'm guessing you'd be trying to engage 2 different gear selections on the main shaft at once, and it probably just wouldn't go in. I'd like to see a 13 and 18 speed rear section side by side to compare them.
@@dennissmith460 well you """can""" but i dont know the difference yet but its the same principle, just stronger for high torque application .. you can aslo go from 3 to low in high range its the same ratio of the fourth gear and you can split it ! BUT its not what eaton recommande!...
jmpsck23 just took it off and you're right it was about 200 lbs. Good thing you gave me a heads up about the weight or I would have dropped it on my feet. Big thanks.
jmpsck23 do you need special tools to replace a synchronizer. And is it easy to reinstall will a counter shafts fit in the proper place I was told you have to take the transmission out and stand it upright on a table and lower the rear gearbox in place because the shafts will not line up if you try to change it inside the truck I would like to do this myself I don't want to get it apart and cannot reassemble it LOL any advice would be appreciated
