Thanks for the Info I am going to give building one myself, I can't afford to keep paying for Vapour Blasting! Going to build my cabinet from Aluminium!!
Thanks for tips on the gun mods, simple and cheap. Love those new models, i can only imagine how good they would be to use. More tips on media etc would be great. Cheers.
Reduced the air hole to 2.5mm by pressing a blank and redrilling. Made a massive difference to the finish and performance of the ebay gun. Thanks for the tip.
Hey mate! I have a mobile sandblasting / dustless blasting business in australia. I am just about to build a vapour blasting cabinet and stumbled across your channel. Love the info and my binge of your videos shall begin. My compressor I run my mobile blast setup with is a 280cfm at 150psi. So I have the air side covered. haha
I am crippled with envy right now! I wouldn't even know what to do with so much air! Best of luck with the build and I hope you enjoy the content. Josh.
Hi Bryan, I used to, but now I am tied up with the cabinet builds. Usually it ends up being cheaper and quicker to have a local machine shop copy the jet that came with it. Other than that, all you need is a stainless m6 grub screw and a 1/2" BSP brass hose barb to suit your hose size. Thanks for watching!
Happy New Year Josh. Being in rental property with limited power outlets, I bought a 10cfm FAD compressor which was the largest output I could find that was 10amp. My gun has a 3mm air nozzle (still finalized my cabiet so haven't tried it yet). What do you suggest would be my best air jet and carbide nozzle size? Thanks heaps you all you work sharing this info mate
Hi Brian. Is that 10cfm rating @90psi? if so, 3mm would suffice. If its 10cfm at atmospheric, I would recommend going down to 2.5mm and using a 8mm carbide. Thanks for watching!
@@ArmouryEnterprises Thanks for replying Josh, my compressor is actually rated at 275lpm (9.8cfm) at 100psi so I am happy to give the 3mm a shot based on your thoughts. I have 5-8mm nozzles, do you use different size nozzles for different media (Glass bead, Garnet/Aluminium oxide) or just stick to the one size?
Doesn't the set screw mess up the alignment of the jet when it's tightened? Would it be better if the screw tightened down on the case, and projected into another retaining groove cut into the jet?
@@ArmouryEnterprises Thanks for all your great advice, I maybe assumed the alignment was more critical than had been indicated previously. The o-ring obvious helps, and probably assists in being able to rotate the jet to allow the set screw to compensate for any misalignment caused in the poor QA at the factory. I'm going to get a 2.5mm jet made up at my local machine shop as you suggest. Keep up the good work, greetings from Wales.
Dou you think I could tap the hole, insert a set screw with loctite and drill the hole size I need? I have a 12 CFM @90 compressor so I would probably need the 2.5mm hole. Right now @50 psi I use a 6mm nozzle and my compressor run all the time :S.. If I put a smaller nozzle, for some reason the air stop the slurry delivery and I cant vapor blast..
Hi Jerome, Yes, just remember it will be a bit of a finicky job. Set screws are usually quite hard and it will be easy to break the small drill bits. I have one subscriber contact me and tell me that he packed the end of the jet with JB Weld and drilled that out. He said it worked a treat. J.
Hey mate, Thanks for the message! I had thought about it, but usually the shipping costs make it so expensive that it isn't really worth doing. I have been recommending that people take the nozzle to a local engineering shop and have them copy the steel piece, bore the air jet to the right size, and add the o-ring groove. I have had good feedback so far and people have said they got a really god price. Thanks for watching!
Hi. I have one of these that I am trying to use on my dry blast cabinet and can't get it to work. I have a 4mm boron nozzle, tried adjusting the air jet but all it does is blow air back down the pick up tube and through the media. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Hi Simon, The quality control on these nozzles is not great. The first thing to check is that the air jet is centred in the ceramic tip. If it's not, it will pressurise the body and back feed. It must be perfectly centred. Also check to see if the hole has been drilled straight. They are usually off, but you can often get it to line up by loosening the set screw and rotating the air jet inside the gun. These have a 4mm air jet hole from the factory, so the alignment must be perfect to suit a 4mm ceramic. If possible, I would go to a 6mm ceramic tip. Hope this helps Josh.
Hi Trev, They are usually around 4mm from factory. But I match them to the compressor it will be used with. 2.5mm is the smallest I go and use them with a 3hp compressor. I may have set this in up in the end for a larger air supply using a 4mm jet. I don't recall. Hope this helps! Josh
Thanks Josh. I have a 2 hp 3.9 SCFM at 175 PSI compressor and it takes forever to strip a metal part of paint and rust. I started with glass bead, then crushed glass that worked better but still crazy slow. I’m not sure why but thinking maybe dry sandblasting would work better..? Dustless is much safer though. Thanks Trev.
@@trevcessna1723 Hi Trev, it sounds like your compressor is much too small. You will likely have similar issues dry blasting as your pressure drops off. Even my 12 CFM 3hp compressor is on the small side. Crushed glass and aluminium oxide are better for stripping paint, but you want to be able to retain a working pressure of around 90psi.
@@projectpassion3075 depends on the size of your pump and the size of the air compressor you will use. Usually 1/2" is fine for most hobby set ups. If you are running a high flow pump and over 24cfm I would go up to 5/8". Cheers!
Hi Wayne, Could be worth looking into. Though the air jet is a small hole so would need quite intricate tooling to create, though a disposable 3d printed nozzle could be made with a twist to ascertain the value of having the jet come out in a vortex. Thanks for watching!
