Frankencool. Is your bike and? Front and rear huby? Must be cranking some amps with the massive alloy heating? Interesting build!! Looks like you could tote the world
i have a sondors lx my brake cut off when i hit the brakes doesnt work nor do the brake lights ? any ideas its a new bike but im not taking it back for anything i do my own work i just havent had time maybe you can save me more ? thanks
@@karmaEbikes. that's a good starting point , it is in both brakes however , should I check continuity at the controller from the switch at the lever? And do you know if those switches/ levers have any adjustability in terms of when they cut off and on? Thanks very much for your knowledgeable advise
You absolutely can do this. It makes a more reliable break light than the "smart" break lights and remains lit as long as you are holding the break lever. If you splice the wires in parallel (+ to +/ - to -) to a sensor on both break handles this will work for both breaks. This particular reed switch is rated for 10 amps at 12 volts which will handle automotive incandescent bulbs without arcing and/or melting the reed switch. LED lights usually have lower amperage/wattage usage than the incandescent bulbs, so you are covered no matter what type of light you use. I use a separate motorcycle battery to power my break lights, bypassing the ebike battery and controller which means the lights will work even on a non-powered bicycle. If the controller has a constant voltage source for external lights just pass this voltage through the reed switch first. I recommend using a separate 12 volt battery, but the controller output will work as long as you don't exceed it's power rating. If using LED lights the positive and ground input is important to note at the light, but the reed switch is not polarized so it can be hooked up either way.
