90% of my notes just came from your video. Other 10% is specific to being a 340lbs rider and long distance commuter. Outstanding contribution. Thank you!
I was originaly going to convert my hybrid bike, after watching your videos i found an ebike 1000w motor 48v battery on ebay. i called the company they built me a bike and shipped it in 2 days.all for £845.00 (UK) . I was expecting to upgrade brakes etc. Its been amazing, after a week i took it to a local bike repairer to give it a good looking over. Now it runs perfectly. i ride around 20 miles a day, battery always has over a quater of charge left, i always pedal. advise to anyone who is getting an ebike , check the spokes if you have a powerful rear hub motor. This was a car replacement , it will pay for itself in a year.. thanks for all your input, it's been a great help..
Wait just finished my ebike. I bought a cheap kit from eBay and threw it on a 1998 Marin mountain bike and it works great. For the battery, I am using salvaged 18650 cells from laptop batteries I bought at a scrap yard for $1.50 a pound. The battery in total only costs me 75 bucks. Also the kit it fast, like REALLY fast. Full throttle I can easily hit 30mph and the cost of everything including the bike: $400.
Front and back cameras with a display and night vision are all so very useful to have. Having a heated jacket if you can afford it are well worth you while.
I live in a small township in Ohio, and I bought a radwagon. I put an alarm on it, have two ulocks, and two cable locks. If someone steals my bike they must really need it.
and when passing people going in the same direction, ring your bell to alert them. Bikes are very quiet and people don't know you are behind them . Good way to avoid accidents.
This is one of the better ebike vids out there I'm planning to use a BBSHD with a hardtail Giant XTC 2012, the battery --- I think you could talk about this in depth, like 2018 will significantly change the possibilities ...18650/ 21700..Wheel size vs sprocket, 29er, 26inch, sprocket size (42t) etc
Nice video, thought the route chosen did not look like the typical commute. Being from Portland, I recognized most of it. Your comments about e-bike etiquette were spot on. Cyclists in general could do with a bit more etiquette. My current bike is my own build but I'd have to say, in 2018, there are so many inexpensive options, I'm not sure DIY saved me a great deal of money. I went with a utilitarian commuter frame, 1000 watts and 52V. One final observation I've had with a good deal of commuting miles under my belt and not something I've seen discussed in any forums - if your commute involves a lot of stop and go, it might be better to go with a slower bike with higher torque than high top speed. In congested areas, going much above 20 isn't safe and is hard on brakes and the extra torque of some of the lower speed options might be better for stop and go.
Exactly. It's not about speed, the benefit is torque for hill climbing and being nimble in traffic when you need to be. Yeah, this ride was to discuss my experience of ebike commuting, not an actual commute. I've posted some of my commutes in more recent videos though. If you are running 52v, you are closer to 1300W. Mine is 52v x 26A = 1300W, but the motor is listed as 1000w. Although there are inexpensive options, stores have to stick to the regulations of that area so you are still able to build a much more powerful ebike for the same money. Thanks for watching!
Lots of good info here. I'm a new ebike rider here (472 miles on the machine so far). I subscribed and look forward to learning more. BTW, that scenery makes me wonder if you were riding in the Pacific Northwest?
Your information is excellent! I selected a Cannondale Scalpel model 2000 and frame (now 2000 is not the year yet the model) then I added the Cannondale Lefty DSLR2 fork with an FSA MegaExpo Crank with the Shimano clip-less SPD pedals and matching bike shoes. Your informative video inspired me to to build the 1000w 48v on a frame that match my riding preferences not using the Genesis V2100 bike it came with. I gave that away as a Christmas present to a nephew that has has one and loved it thrashed it in a few short years. (Yes I adjusted with the proper toques (Not the Wally World tightening and also the proper performance lubricants not just grease that it came with). Surely it was the not bike for me as I only drive the top performance, speed and most agile control vehicles available. My racing Ultimate Driving Machine is a BMW4 and the Cannondale Scalpel is the the closest bike experience i have found. Your excellent post led me to building a bike with the the performance and handling features that I desire and have been spoiled with the Ultimate Driving Machine, again i thank you for that as you saved me from building a simple pedlic that would have created much disappointment to me. Long Story Short, Your post (I.e video) inspired me to build an e-Bike on a bike frame that meets my riding and racing style. Thank You very much as I climb hills easily and sore through traffic jams at ease with pedal assist. Again Thank You, as I built a XC (Cross Country) e-bike so that I can hit the paths and trials to capture excellent photographs while also climbing steep hills and preforming at high speeds (40.5+ mpm) with little fatigue and great satisfaction. Thanks again, I ran across your video after I purchased the DIY e bike kit online yet before it was delivered I found your U tube and it helped by build build the e Bike of to fulfill all of my needs and desires. For your readers, Please do not hesitate to contact me on the components and sources to build an e-bike that will accelerate 40.5 mph and climb steep hills. My email address is: ken@kenthedesigner.com Yet it is only fair to let everyone know in advance that that I spent over a year (to find and purchase the top components, and spent about 3000 in US dollars Almost all of my parts are new yet the Cannondale Scalpel 2000 is no longer produced yet it the only frame that I have found to fit a Samsung or Panasonic 48 volt Lithium battery with a water bottle configuration to permit mounting on the down tube to provide the lowest center of gravity to enhance your control and agility of the e-bike.. Yet I do not think one can build an e-bike that shares the top speed, agility, control or performance of this bike for less, yet if they can please have them contact me as soon as possible because I have sponsors that are currently interested. A list of my components and the suppliers is not a secret and I do not charge for it as my desire is only to complement your video for those that want to build an e-bike as the ultimate driving machine. Thanks again for your excellent U tube post. My hat is off to you!
i have a haibike sduro 1.0, i upgraded the handle bar grips to locking ergonomic ones, added a touley rear rack, panniers and bag plus usb rechargeable lights front n rear. great bike so far...oh and a top of the line lock plus cables loops for the wheels. I don't leave it long...but if i have too...i use decent locks
nice thx,lots of good suggestion, on my side i have no bike to build with ,so i chose to use the regular ancheer electric bike (2016 model) because it already looks like a mountain bike with a kit and it is cheap, them i plan to upgrade with a better kit when the battery and motor will show some wear . probably a kit like yours,(1000w to 1500w) thanks you.
Hello I'm planning a road trip from Portland to Astoria and back.. (possibly down the Oregon coast a while..depending on how everyone is getting along.. LOL) Trip is late June or early July. About a week in duration. My etrike is equipped with a trailer (chargers, food, water, tents, sleeping bags etc..) Nice relaxed trip. Would you be interested in joining the group..? Robb
I think riding an e-bike on sidewalks and on bike paths are illegal in most states, you should check your local laws or ordinances before riding your e-bike.
Bob Torres So no one should do anything before understanding all regulations. Do you think it is possible to understand 10% of all regulations in a human lifetime? Where/when do you start? Do you think 98+% of the population can even understand legal texts? It is impossible for any real human bean and a real hero to understand all laws before taking any actions. Could you explain your logic?
Any further updates? I've just bought myself a 1000w 48v rear wheel and 15ah (claimed) lifepo battery. Can't wait to use it for commuting. Im hoping to commute 20miles round trip on a single charge (with next to no pedaling). Do you think this is possible? Even if it turns out I'm a bit under 15ah? P. S. Your channel is by far the most professional and conclusive ebike channel. I've subscribed.
YeCannyDaeThat Nice! Congrats! I will be doing my 10,000 mile update soon. I've already passed 10k but haven't had good weather or time. Still riding everyday though. I would buy an inline battery meter. Like me, you'll only use it to see what kind of Wh/mile you are using. That's the only important number that nobody seems to mention. For example, I use about 30-35wh/mile with my setup. My battery is 880Wh. So I can easily track my range. But now I'm familiar with my battery and don't use the meter. Or if you have a CA, that will tell you also. Range is not as linear as you'd think and no numbers other than actual Wh/mile and Wh of battery can tell you anything for certain. But the more you ride the more you will realize that pedaling is always easy and you will do it always except when you are faster than you can pedal. But you won't be WOT all the time. Not only is that dangerous but it's impractical. You end up learning how to improve your efficiency and that is much more rewarding than just flying around all the time, as a commuter anyway. The short answer to your question is: 20 miles will be a stretch on a 15ah battery. Hardly likely that you can just "mob" that far. But my point is that you won't be anyway.
PDXevgrin thanks. That's great info. If it doesn't have the range it's not a problem, I can just buy another charger and leave it at my work. (I'm in scotland). It should do 10 miles no problem. I really can't wait. It's all built. Just waiting on the battery from China. I combed through the particulars and checked its 15ah, lifepo4, as continuous amps 25. So hopefully should be good if the seller is telling the truth!
If you are only going 10 miles, then I'd buy a charger that you can choose to charge to 80% or 100%. Charge to 80%, use down to 30% and charge back to 80%. Not only will you not have to worry, you'll extend the life of your battery 2-300% this way. If you are commuting, remember you are going to and from work. Which is important ;) It's best to not try and push your range, especially if you don't pack a charger. Bump up to 100% only when you need extra range. I have a Cycle Satiator and charge to 88% (my sweet spot) for my commutes. I travel 36 miles round trip though so I'm always going 18 miles each way. I have a 52v @ 26A =1332W Setup. 880Wh 17.5Ah battery. Which motor kit did you choose? A newer 9Continent Motor is much more efficient than my motor. Using a range calculator, I found that if I switched to that, i may only use 17-20Wh/mile which would extend my range greatly.
PDXevgrin think I got the same motor as you. Certainly looks the same. It was £150 off ebay for the kit. It came with a twist grip throttle though which is nice. This is the battery I bought m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32694394190.html I saw that you charge to 80%. Ideally I would like to do that but the problem is I'm building on a real budget. In fact I've just spent the last of my money on panniers. How much is that fancy charger? I was just going to use the one that comes with it. I take it its pretty cheap though. Will it stop charging at 100%? Does it really make a huge difference? My phone has a Lithium battery and Ive charged it every night to 100% and that must be nearly a thousand times and its still good.
I'd be interested in you following up on how it works for you in this comment thread after you've had that battery for a while. You don't need a Satiator, that's just the one I've moved to. With that inexpensive of a battery you found, just charge and run with what you've got and see where that takes you. Also that charger will be really lightweight. You'll probably get in the habit of taking it with you. Nice choice on panniers. That has been one of my best decisions, going from a backpack for commuting.
Man that hill is a mission and a half, thanks for your thoughts. Deciding what to go for on a modest budget is an absolute minefield. Considering a GTECH simply due to maintenance ease and I only need a short range commuter for hills - any thoughts?. Changing back tyre on a rear wheel hub bike makes me break out in a sweat
Nebojsa Matovic it is a direct drive. It does have a little resistance. You could pedal normally but a geared motor would be better for that as they have no resistance.
what's up man. I'm gonna attempt to do my first build having no experience with bikes, batteries or any of it lol.. I'm just systems builder... but I will try
I already own an electric bike. A RadRover. I am considering converting one of my older bikes a mountain bike into an electric bike using a front motor kit to get the awd experience. Any advice on where to by the kit w/ cruise option
i have a question about your mongoose impasse. Did you have to stretch the rear dropouts to install the yescom motor? or does it fit without having to stretch or file down the dropouts.
Igor Lupin I bought the bike with kit installed so I don't know for sure. The only thing I'll say about the Impasse was that it was a pain to deal with. it's a 29er so you'll need a new front wheel anyway and that makes the geometry all wrong. I highly recommend a steel hardtail. You can get a Trek 820 for less than $100 on CL it new for $380.
Question about the thermal load in the summer months. Ive watched a few of your videos, the speeds, distance and terrain you travel, does your bike setup ever have overheating issues in the summer? No auto shutdown for exceeding temp protection etc?
HackHunter1835 I've only had two separate issues with heat. Both on extremely steep hills. The first was frying my first controller on a really hot day but I didn't downshift and was out of the saddle which wasn't consistent help for the motor. The second was similar conditions but also with fully loaded panniers and I melted the phase wires' insulation together. That time I was able to pull them apart and tape them up and continue. I still need to shrink tube them. But for the most part I have no issues with heat. I think it's important to downshift and spin consistently if you plan on mobbing up hills. I think my motor is only rated to handle 6 or 7% grades but I know the road featured in this video is steeper than that. Cheers!
"you're only that ebike douchbag, until THEY become that douchbag e-bike rider" I no longer ride my Trek Commuter, I've gone full e-bike. If you commute to work, consider converting to tubeless. Any rim can be made tubeless with only gorilla tape, stans, tubeless stems and a compressor.
Fred for 2 main reasons. 1. I wanted to do it while the Lipo pack was still good so I could use it on my 2nd (friend-ride) bike. 2. For daily commuting it's quite a hassle to maintain Lipo the way I was. Not to mention how many connections and wires could potentially fail. My job requires dependability and the 18650 brick is much much easier and less prone to user error (think 5-6am groggy time, mixed voltage packs to make 52v and frying parallel charging boards).
A bike that goes 30mph is no longer an e-bike. It becomes illegal to ride wherever a bicycle can be ridden. Somewhere in the Midwest or South, you would probably have less hassle from police. He is in Cali. The are restrictive on rules out west, and in the Eastern States. I live in Michigan. We're legally allowed to ride four wheelers (ATVs) down the shoulder of highways. They are even less restrictive on snowmobiles during the winter. I could never live in a Nanny State.
I am from the Uk and I find it really difficult to watch film of people riding on the right hand side of the road.I know it is silly but I can't help thinking you are going to get hit head on.
Check out my 10,000 mile update video for pretty much everything about my bike. It hasn't changed since that video and haven't had to do much maintainance other than pads and tires. At around 19,000 miles now.
Aaron Morgan The nipples mainly. The ones that come installed are really easy to damage. My wheel feels much stiffer now as well all around. It's a very noticeable difference.
Steve Petttyjohn Yep. Video starts in N Portland, crossing St. John's Bridge to Old Germantown Road and follows Leif Erickson Drive through Forest Park to NW Portland.
What terrible car drivers you American bikers have to put up with, especially overtaking on double yellow lines is particularly dangerous. I am of course assuming that double yellow lines mean no crossing them (no overtaking) as in europe.
