Ebike Gear and Brake Cutoff Sensors, do you need them, what I think, tips and tricks! 

I use a gear change cutoff on my BBSHD hybrid bike, maybe I am lucky but it works perfectly and gives the bike an overall factory feel. I don't need to instruct anyone riding it on how to do proper gear changes, just let them go and the gear change sensor handles it, no need to teach them about using brake levers as a gear change "clutch". I also have a Stealth gen 3 MTB that I do lots of technical riding with on trails. Many tend to not use brake sensors or gear change sensors on these, and I do get the idea of not having them (or at least the gear change sensor) on a torque sensing motor. This is a rather easy bike to do natural gear changes, just letting of pedaling power a bit when changing gears, thus I do not have a gear change sensor on the CYC bike. Brake sensors however are a MUST for me; During technical (I mean really technical), there's lots of balancing going on where I balance and weight on the pedals while braking and it's straight out dangerous having a bike that will give full power when braking and pedals are given power. Same goes when standing still, balancing on the bike, I balance the bike pressing a pedal while braking. What a mess of a text that is, but my point is; Whatever motor system is used, I believe brake cutoff sensors should be used, always. Accidents can easily happen when your motor gives full power (whether it being a torque sensing or cadence motor) because of input, even though your are braking with both front and rear. If I build a bike for someone, brake cutoff sensors are mandatory.

Yes, a light pull on the brake lever to cut the motor while shifting works great for me on my BBSHD with HV kit.

Break cut-offs are an essential safety feature. If you get a runaway motor you'll be glad to have them!

As a BBSHD/HV Kit owner using PAS for all my offroad rides, i also found the Brake cutoff method the best & the most controllable, over 2,000+ km to date on original Drivechain components (including chain) checked chain & "still just within stretch limits". Cheers for another informative upload. 👍 😊🍻

Another good reason to get the HV BBSHD kit! That 50watt base power sounds handy as can be. Having said that, I have the shift sensor on my Luna Hotrod Tune BBSHD currently, and it seems to be a quick, snappy disruption and resumption of torque flow when shifts are made, as long as you stay "on the power" during the shifting process. As someone who tunes a fair number of internal combustion drivetrains, I've been pretty impressed with the tune they put together for the shifts. (no brake sensors for me, I like playing the brake against the motor torque in some circumstances) Due to the lack of your 50watt power floor on the Hotrod Tune though, if you shift off power, there is a troubling clunk when you get back on the power and the shift finally completes.

the gearshift sensor definitely simplifies shifting. you can just keep pedaling, no need to back off, also with torque sensing motors (i have now a toseven dm01) it's a huge improvement over no shift sensor. you still need to apply torque to the pedals during shifting, but when the motor cuts off completely, the shift gets very smooth, as long as you have a high enough cadence. on bbs motors, the shift sensor delay is much shorter than the brake cutoff delay, which results in a faster acceleration, but also requires a higher cadence to avoid crunching. the funny thing with brake sensors is, they always supply you with these stone age brake levers nobody will ever use. Either you can use the julet/higo cable to make your own kill switch (for manual motor interruption) and/or install a hydraulic pressure switch (the one from magura is really good! ). I've recently also used the brake sensor to switch a brake light on a modern ebike lights kit. really cool function!

Really informative. Break sensors definitely for new riders of ebikes to make them safe (e.g., accidentally pulling throttle and they "can't" let go they can grab brake )

I only recently added the brake sensors to a tsdz2 which is a torque sensing setup. Honestly found it quite useful at the higher power settings for a few lower speed manoeuvres like weaving through the barriers placed down an alleyway expressly marked as a cycle path in my town. Sometimes it just wants to snap a little aggressively when you don't want it to. Also the tsdz2 firmware isn't the fastest responding in the world and was sometimes fighting the brake as I'd start braking. Ultimately been finding it a bit of a game changer. My new ebike build is DD hub motor based and I may be using the brake sensors to trigger regen.

Im def a proponent for gear shifters, especially when starting out. I exploded my first derailleur getting greedy with power shifting. That being said im a bit tired of cleaning the grease/oil off the roller and not detecting shifts. that and using it without a clutched derailleur and having cutouts on big bumps

YMMV of course, but with the Photon with torque sensing, neither brake or shift sensors are needed. Especially for decent chaingroups with decent derailleurs, correctly adjusted. My Eagle NX setup shifts flawlessly even under moderate power. Not having the shift sensor give you more choice - you can either power through shifts or just back off.

i have stock bbshd and sturmey archer 3 speed hub. i have an extra brake lever with the cable attachment remvoed connected to the shift sensor plug with a block in the spring to make the tension stiffer (when i go over bumps the lever vibrates and disengages the motor. i only need the brake(clutch) lever when shifting up under load. down shifting is always clutchless and only need the clutch going from gear one to gear 2 up a hill. on the 3 speed hub you have to slow your cadance till you feel the cam move over in the hub. once you feel the gear shift you can release the clutch.

Nice one mate,the 50w on the conversion kit very interesting.❤

I personally on lighter builds only run front brake so what I did was I used my other brake disconnected. Aka I only was using the electric feature not the actual physical brake, it basically acted like a very natural feeling clutch that I could pull all the way, shift and then release with no weird automation

I went through 2 gear sensors before I realised I don't need them. They are too unreliable. I use the brake cutoff on the rear brake when changing gear instead.

I used to just flick my brake lever and it would cut power long enough to change gears but now I got i.g.h so I don't have to peddle well changing gears and I just took off my shift sensors about 2 weeks a go. Internal geared hub is a good way to go because I have not snapped a chain since I have had i.g.h

Thanks for posting. What about hub gears? They have faster gear changes so power drop off is not so much of an issue? I have a rholoff which I want to protect. They have two gear cables for up and down shifting. It would be possible to put a sensor on both, and then wire them together. The other aspect is closer and opener sensors on the e cut off switches for the brake levers. Magura e levers have options for both, and they also have a 2 pin Higo, which is apparently not compatible with the BBSHD 3 pin higo. So it's a bit of a minefield.

Great vid! Very informative and I’m glad I ran across it. I bought a used Ride1Up bike for cheap, that the original owner had given up on. He was honest that the motor would randomly cutout, make grinding noises, and become unrideable after only a mile or two. I read up on the brand and there were similar complaints from many owners. I was sure I could get it running. I bought it, had it professionally tuned up for mechanicals, so that whatever might be the problem wasn’t going to be misaligned brakes (mechanical disks) or gear system (7-speed). It was still acting up (but a bit better overall) so I disabled both brake sensors and immediately 80% of the issues stopped occurring. After some more tweaking, it’s running fine 95% of the time with hesitating/cutoff issues only occurring before a first mile. After that it’s perfect and quiet. Maybe something to do with the motor warming up? Still investigating but the bike is enjoyable and strong. This isn’t my first e-bike so I’m familiar with being able to stop pedaling when applying brakes. Stomping on the brakes while full throttling is not a problem for me.

I didn't fit the brake cut offs on my second bike. There's too much delay between putting the brake on and being able to accelerate again. Really noticeable when stopping at junctions.

Would be awesome if you could use di2 or sram axs electric shifting with the Bafang system. As i can recall correctly only Shimano Steps does auto-shift with di2 mechs.

Or you can replace the rear gears for an IGH. I replaced an old 6 speed with an Enviolo 380, and now I'm waiting for my CYC Photon. Only have one gear up front now. Would never go back to having a derailleur.

For me, neither was the right option. The "cutoff button" that you just tap to cut the power for a moment is way better. I just tap it whenever I shift. Or I hold it down if I'm shifting down while braking towards a stop. Or I hold it down if I'm wanting to ride slowly through a tough / technical situation. Highly recommend the cutoff button.

I use a button like a clutch on my left thumb!

I like that brake cut off idea. Are you using just sensors for hydraulic braked or you changed whole brake with ones from Bafang?

you rolled an 8. The half Orc noticed you trying to pick her pocket. The half naked barbarian is getting angry. Roll for initiative.

i have a new ebike wire harness and controller + lcd, and it gives me error 10 , engine spins just fine with throttle and pedals... i have no sensors connected as i cant find anything that fits! but i got the feeling this is what is causing the annoying error. i tried 3 different LCD's

I have one of those kindernay IGH with a bafang ultra. I tried using hydraulic switchs in the shifter hoses hooked into the shift cut input. (kindernay use hydraulics not cable) But I found that the shift cut time was far too long. It was more of a hindrance than a convenience.

I am building my first bbshd this week. I have hydraulic brakes and they shipped the magnets to setup. Should I use that setup or get dedicated hydraulic brakes with built-in cutoff sensors?

My moped-style e-bike is fast 40 mph, and when starting has good torque but coming out of a berm it lags, do you think taking off the brakes sensors will help?

Dont use them, just more to go wrong.

Bbshd from my experience is the most unsafe product I have ever used ( in my life ever). Even though it is one of the most fun products I have ever used. When using max power setting which is needed for off road steep climbing, When you move your pedals 180 degrees to obtain pedal clearance in a corner it will propel you at “full power when you do not want any power” resulting in crash or near crash every time. For me every ride I have a close call without exeption. I cannot comprehend why you or any other youtube channel has not ever discussed this issue. I have also injured my knee bending my knee backwards from a wheely and crash from the crazy abrupt power response and I have also wrapped my pants up in the bolts holding the sprocket resulting in being stuck for half an hour unable to remove myself. Uuhm ,, the product is so much fun and in my opinion a great deal buuuuuttt , why can't you tell the truth?

Do you know if the sensor is a normally open sensor or a normally closed sensor ? Because I ask everyone and nobody can answer me. Thank you for your help !

Why would you be "a fan" of a gear shift sensor. you ride with one gear. They are great if you have twist gear shifter on left grip, I shift full throttle no issues.

Shouldn't be able to pull a throttle if you are in the EU/UK, anyway cut-off sensors are fitted for a reason 'safety'.

How can i find out whether it's a cadence or torque based system?

do they have hydraulic brake levers that come with these cut off sensors?

so basically u'd be using the brake lever as the clutch

Can I still do burnouts with these on?

Can't open mine up, hardwired and sealed: brake cut off sensors something like that; 15yo + seriously Chinesium mostly, eBike!? No gears! But ebike is still much better for the money than anything these days...! I can fix nearly everything on it, except this!

Gear cut off for rear hub motor? I think no need gear cut off

Thise are some shitty brakes. I use Hope Tech 4 V4, with 220mm front rotor.