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1.8v is similar to the single use lithium AAs made by energizer. 1.6 is similar to a new disposable AA. These would be great for stuff that needs a full 3V minimum. They should be charged immediately after they are discharged, the issue is that they form dendrites like NiCd cells do. ❤
One thing to keep in mind with the MWH vs MAH rating is that the runtime in an actual device depends very much on how the device is regulating its input voltage. Boost-buck converters and switching-style regulators (used in many devices that have more complex electronics inside) will vary the amount of current they draw from the battery based on the voltage. If you put a higher voltage battery like an NiZN in there, they will draw less current than they would off of a lower-voltage NiMH. In these kinds of devices, the runtime might actually be very similar between these NiZNs and more traditional NiMH batteries. On the other hand, devices like flashlights, razors, many toys, AA powered fans, and other such devices usually do not use these kinds of switching voltage regulators internally, and won't last as long on lower-mah NiZN batteries. If the device you are using performs noticeably worse on older batteries, this is usually a giveaway that it is this kind of device. Flashlights, for example, will shine brighter with NiZNs, but they will die faster. NiZNs are really good for devices that tend to perform worse on regular rechargeables. In these kinds of devices, NiZNs are a great way to use rechargeables without sacrificing operating performance, but the runtime of the device will be a little bit less than that of a typical NiMH battery in these kinds of devices that are sensitive to input voltage like this. In most cases, I think that NiMH batteries are a better general all-purpose solution, but NiZNs are definitely useful for more niche use cases where higher voltage is necessary. They're good to have on hand in my opinion.
The reason they are using mwh is because mah doesn't matter when the voltage is different. mwh is more accurate when comparing batteries of different chemistries. For example, those lithium batteries when measured mah, you need to use the 3.6v nominal voltage for the amount of energy in the battery. These lithium AA batteries are a lithium battery with a DC-DC voltage regulator. So if you compare the MAH rating, it will appear much lower than it is because a 2000mah 3.6v cell has more energy than a 2000mah 1.2v cell.
I heard there was an updated battery to the old carbon-zinc batteries. Seems like a nice replacement especially since they maintain their output consistently and have a better price than the other newer alternative batteries. Thanks for the review.
The internal chemistry is similar to NiCd batteries. When charged you get the nickel as the hydroxide and zinc as the metal when discharged they make zinc hydroxide and nickel metal.
Great review and comparison video. Definitely a good value especially when compared to Li-ion AA batteries and charger. I wanted to order the xtar set but price was a bit to much for me. The price of these batteries and charger is a bit more palatable, they're on the way. My rc 4x4 controller eats batteries, these will help save money in the long run. 👍😎
It's not a new chemistry, but improvements have allowed them to last longer. How is the self-discharge of these cells? Can they sit around charged for a year or more like the low self discharge NIMH?
I've been using nizn for years. They are great for thigs like trimmers, drills, stuff where it does hurt to have a few more RPMs. But unfortunately they only last a few months because they are cheapos from China. And semi conductor companies like Panasonic and Sony didn't make them. Hopefully EBL will be different.
Thanks for the video. mAh rating is not energy capacity rating, its just current drain over 20 hours. mWh is energy capacity rating and is related to volts times amps delivery. Therefore, a 1000mAh 1.2v battery will have 1200mWh of energy in it but a 1000mAh 1.6v battery will have 1600mWh of energy in it.
Pretty interesting batteries indeed! Great review, Albert! 😃 I've heard about this chemistry before, I just don't remember where. 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Interesting with more alternatives. Guess well see how this type of chemestry would hold up over time... 3 of em could power a whoop! Mabie nott the best.. ;-)
Something feels slimy about using mWh to advertise capacity, even though it's technically more information than just mAh, which doesn't factor in voltage. I have no doubt they're counting on consumers to get confused between the two and buy the "bigger number". If everybody switched at once, that's one thing, but if mAh is more or less the standard it's a bit shady to use mWh just to get a bigger number.
Multiply the nominal voltage by the MAH to get a rough idea of the mwh. For NiMH batteries, multiply MAh by 1.25. To get MAh from an Ni-ZN battery, divide the MWh by 1.65. (This isn't a perfect calculation because we're relying on nominal voltages, which aren't actually constant during the discharge cycle, but it will get you very close). For the EBL 3000 MWh batteries, the MAh is about 1800. However, EBL has been known to exaggerate their MAh claims a bit, it's likely closer to the ballpark of 1500-1600. Someone would need to do a formal test to see what the actual numbers are. (This doesn't necessarily mean that they won't last as long as higher MAh NIMH batteries. It depends on the device. In devices like flashlights, Ni-ZN batteries will shine brighter but won't last as long. In some devices with internal non-linear voltage regulators such as devices with a lot of more complex electronics inside, less current will be drawn from the battery when the voltage is higher, so Ni-ZN batteries can actually get very close to NiMH batteries in terms of how long they last, despite the lower MAh rating. How they actually compare will depend very much on the device. )