Thank you for taking the 'time' to show this video. I too have an 2.2 Ecotec engine that has developed a rattle and need to dig down to investigate. Your video really helps to demystify the procedure.
I had that balance shaft chain tensioner be the first failure point in my Ion Redline, it stopped tensioning as well as it should and caused a rattle. Only 90k miles. So I went ahead and replaced all the tensioners and all the guides, got the updated timing chain guide bolt/plug, ZZP's upgraded timing chain guide, both chains, timing cover gasket, the updated timing chain oil spray nozzle and new bolts where needed. I managed to do the whole job without removing the engine mount, only loosening it some to line up the hole in the chassis with that one bolt for the tensioner assembly. You can also cut that bridge part out of the top of the timing cover gasket so you dont have to remove the engine mount entirely.
Oooomg I'm seriously going through the exact same thing right now I got to lose chain it was a new timing system and I haven't even watched the whole video yet my man's you are awesome I am this is probably the best video I've seen on RU-vid and years
Yeah, I’m doing the timing chain on the 08 Chevy cobalt and I figured while I was in there I’m also change the water pump two at the same time do it all while I have it all open and the question that I was going to ask you is I mentioned it in my other message anyway that you can send me like where the time in March so I just wanna make sure that I got the time in Mark’s in the right spot. Thanks bro I’m hoping you can help me out.
This is what I'm afraid of lol. Some guys just take their tensioners out, put new ones in, and it works fine. I have enough life experience to know I'm not that lucky.
EXACT same thing happened to my cavalier. The trick is to put zip ties on the cam gears which helps prevent the slack from falling down to crank sprocket. ALSO the book is WRONG. The book says set timing with #1 cyl at TDC compression stroke. The cam timing marks didn't look right to me but I forged on. Had a terrible time getting it to start. When it did start it ran rough. Ripped back apart. Reset to TDC compression using #4 cyl. The cam timing marks lined up perfect. Buttoned it up. Soon as I hit key it fired up purred like cat.
Usally the marks on the chain is to set your crank and cam's for timing you put the bottom on the crank at the TDC mark then position your cams to the marks up top
From the information I've researched the Camshaft sprocket bolts are torque to yield, but the Crankshaft bolt is not, that is why it's not readily available.
i just did the same thing...... AFTER i had already done the whole job. My fuckin tensioner that i put in with the whole timing kit lasted like 5k miles maybe.... thought id just pop it out and put one in. SLACK FML
2:04 the engine mount is in two parts: part one to frame and part two to engine. The part to engine how did you remove? With my engine the mount bolt backs out and interferes with the frame, thus the bolt will not come out.
It's been a few years, this was in an HHR not sure what vehicle you're dealing with but I believe I took both of them out. Very difficult to remember exactly where the bolts were that you're talking about.
Not be rude, but that's hilarious man. Definitely a terrible mistake but a good learning experience. I should know, basically the same thing happened to me when I changed the water pump
Thankfully I did not have to change the water pump. It had been changed by the previous owner as I later found out after a coolant flush and the o-rings on the exchange pipe start to leak.
I guess what I still don't understand is how to prevent the chain slack while changing the tensioner? I haven't really found a good way to do that on the internet
I have seen many video's about changing the timing chains on a 2.2 & people go on about replacing the cam bolts & this is the 1st time hearing about replacing the crank bolt! I guess it is a stretch to yield bolt as well...??? I just happened to have my smaller stretch/antenna type magnet within reach when I changed my upper tensioner, In hopes to stop the rattle at start up & it worked for a few weeks-if that. Anyways, I don't know which timing kit to order? Im looking at a DR.ENGINE TIMING KIT $124.88 (comes with front cover, water pump, front cover gasket, both chains, both cam gears, oiler, guides & a total of 8 bolts, so, everything except a valve cover gasket & gasket maker & oil change...My biggest question is, How important is it to replace the front cover/oil pump? With about 170k showing on the speedo, there is chalk writing on the valve cover making me think that, the engine was replaced plus, It runs good, maybe to good for 170k? I just purchased the car about 4 months ago but with the rattle at start up, I WORRY! Many of the kits only include the bigger timing chain & they do not include the balance chain.. So, I start to wonder how important the balance chain is but, only a fool would open it up & not replace it! If I do not get the front cover & only get the 2 chains, guides & bolts, from DR. ENGINE, A BASIC KIT CAN BE HAD FOR $54-56. The kit that I am considering is $124.88 I am wondering about the quality of the DR.ENGINE KIT??? Money is tight & I DO NOT WANT THIS CHAIN TO GO & CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE HEAD OR BLOCK!!! So, Im kind of in a hurry to get it ordered before I spend the money. What I know is, My cooling fans do not operate! The car operates between 183-189 & usually cools back down unless im stuck in traffic, or under load so, I did find a pin within the fusebox, a pin within the fan relay/where the relay should be anyways, when I ground that pin, FAN COMES ON SO, I RAN A WIRE FROM THAT PIN & TO A TOGGLE SWITCH THEN TO A GROUND BUT, THE FAN BARELY SPINS FAST ENOUGH FOR MY LIKING! What I mean to say is, I wish it ran faster! When I shut the car off, I can rev it just slightly to 2k rpm's a few times & watch the temp drop down to 183 before shutting off the car so, I am wondering if a new oil pump would help it stay cooler? I think it would? Do you know anything about the timing kits from DR.ENGINE ON EBAY??? P.s. I saw a comment about cutting a 1/8th or a 1/16 off of the original crank bolt, ONE BUST HAVE A NUT PROPERLY THREADED ONTO THAT BOLT BEFORE CUTTING IT! Or else the nut might not go on, or the threads can more easily get mangled! It is alot easier if you have the correct nut onto the bolt prior to cutting & the spinning the bolt/dressing the bolt with a bench grinder, using the nut to help fix any defect in the threads when you unscrew the nut!!!!!
I couldn't tell you on that brand of timing kit, but it's much more important to consider replacing the water pump, as it is extremely hard to get to and replace if you are not doing a timing chain. The oil pump is really not that big of a deal. I got screwed, and now my water pump is leaking badly months later after doing this job.
Also honestly I wouldn't modify the bolts, I would just go ahead and buy one from the dealer and replace it. They are cheap enough. Also, my balance chain and tensioner were pretty worn out as well. The rattling you are hearing is most likely a bad tensioner plunger
@@gunprojects5398 Directly after messaging you about the crank bolt, I had my brother stop at a dealership & grab a new crank bolt 4 me! I ordered a timing kit(dr.engine kit-$124.88-233.93 after tax) with new front cover/oil pump,water pump, 8 new bolts, both chains,3 tensioners,new cam gears, 2 little gears, all guides...then I ordered two new O-rings for the coolant tube between water pump & thermostat, new serpentine belt because mine is all cracked up. I'm hoping the weather warms up & to get some time off of work to install the new timing chains, When they show up. Considering the crank bolt is also a stretch-to-yeild bolt,One would think that it would also come with a timing kit. None of the timing sets are 100% complete!
Same thing happen to my 2007 2.2 at 170.000 miles got a p0016 code and had to have all new chains done and when you got open replace everything including balance chain sprockets and water pump ..
apologies for the shakiness! This video was made so all you guys can look at the cam shaft orientations and have new bolts before you start this job. Comment if you have any questions.
Hey, what’s up buddy I have a quick question I have a Chevy cobalt LT how do I know where the lime time in marks are out and it’s an 08 is there anyway that you could send me a diagram where my mark should be I’d really appreciate it if you could help me out bro thank you
Hhhmm I can't post images in the comments, so I don't know how I can even send you an image. But I show in the video where the marks on the chain need to be and what the cam looks like. I don't know how much more clear it can get.
also, you would need your chain in place with approximately the correct time, you can be a few links off, and rotate it so you are at top dead center exhaust stroke NOT compression stroke
I have the same problem, I THINK IF i loosen all the cam bolts to relieve pressure on the valves I can turn the crank to aline it TDC without hitting the valves to pistons .then move the cranks to 2 oclck and 10 and tighten them back down.
I found out the hard way. Book says 1 but you need to use #4. You can do a visual inspection to verify this by looking at cam lobes to see what valves are open and closed.
Wow guys. Ok ANY time I are setting the timing on ANY engine use MUST set the crank at TDC, TOP DEAD CENTER. This is the position any engine is in during assembly. The #1 cylinder all the way up on compression stroke. Props for getting your hands dirty and learning but I highly recommend doing some better research before I do anymore jobs. Reason being is at the very beginning U made the biggest mistake, you removed the tension from the timing chain without the engine at TDC and prepared for the slack chain. I mean come on, what did I expect to happen?
@@joeebowen157 yeah i should have done more research before. I watched a few videos and no one ever said to do that, so it slipped my mind. Great learning experience tho, and helps for doing future jobs...now we know
It's a common thing for the tensioner in these cars up til 08 to clack and fall into two pieces. In these situations it's usually not necessary to do timing chain if you can get the tensioner out in 1 piece. The timing chain is a bigger deal that usually won't need replaced until like 200k. The new tensioner should stop the timing chain from needing replaced at a normal interval if done right, but in my case, I didn't do it good enough
@@gunprojects5398 you think just the tensioner should fix p0016/p0017? Cars running great, only slight slack in chain, everything seems in tact from the top. Trying to avoid doing the whole thing.
Wow dude. Props for getting your hands dirty and attempting this alone, however, NEVER remove tensioner without 1st setting the engine at TDC (TOP DEAD CENTER- #1 PISTON UP ON Compression stroke) and 2nd prepared for the slack in chain by locking the van in position. Regardless, good try but do much better research BEFORE I jump in there. Especially on an Interference motor. Fyi- the pistons can smash/bend the valves if out of correct timing. So, don't F this one up.
i know man, i WISH i would have done more research beforehand, but most of the videos I watched just showed removing the tensioner and replacing it...i should have known it shouldn't be that simple.... it was a good learning experience tho and i got good experience replacing the chain too. thanks for the info, it helps anyone who watches this video
Isn't that how it goes. Touch one little thing and you have a disaster. Never heard where removing the old tensioner could cause slack and jumped timing. Good to know, dont touch.
Looks like majority of the time it will be okay if you are careful, but I made the video so people know that it is possible for something to go wrong during a routine tensioner upgrade swap... Plenty of videos on RU-vid that show the job with no issues... I guess I just was unlucky lol
@@gunprojects5398 I saw a video where someone said, "anyone who knows cavaliers & have experience with them already know about this issue & change them asap so, Having a 2.2 eco-tec in my G5 that taps at start up, I hurried & ordered one! Upon changing mine, I wasn't thinking & luckily, My small extendable, antenna style magnet was beside me & THANK GOD IT WAS! The tensioner came apart & if I hadn't of had that magnet beside me at that moment, The pieces would have fallen into the engine!!!!!
@@jdtv...9134 Your advice is basically, shave off the length that the bolt had stretched past how it was originally. If you bend a piece of metal repeatedly, it will eventually become weak at the bend and just snap. Copper is good at resisting this so it is used for wires. But steel is horrible at this. So physics tells me you're bullshitting.
