I have an 07 Cadillac CTS with the 3.6 engine in it. One of the best engines I’ve ever had and I’ve had a lot of cars I’m in my mid 60s! Never had a lick of trouble with this engine in all the years I’ve had this car, non-! Now I am a fanatic at keeping my oil changed, however. And it gets nothing but full synthetic oil of course, as Cadillac Tells you to use. It runs smooth. Plenty of get up and go. It doesn’t use or leak a drop of oil ever! I have found this engine to be one fantastic engine, regardless of the way you’re knocking it in your video! Lol I love this engine! I personally think the key is, change your oil frequently! I don’t even let it go until the car tells me it’s time for an oil change I change it sooner than that every time! So I attribute a lot of the great luck. I’ve had with this engine to that! But then again, proper maintenance is a key to any engine running great and lasting longer now isn’t it. Lol.
Thanks for the comment. There okay engines GM put them in everything, you definitely have to stay on top of your oil changes. But sooner or later, you’re gonna have to do that timing chain job. And the direct injection at higher mileage, becomes an issue as well. But wear and tear items right take care wish you the best. Thanks for watching.
If you drive it like a senior citizen any car will last. What makes the engine good is how long they withstand the abuse with good maintenance as well. These dual over head cams engines are a pain and not as good as the single cam engines.
@@angelsautomotivediy On the CTS of that generation, the intake is built in such a way that I have never taken GM engineering seriously again. It's the most ridiculously annoying thing to take apart.
Absolutely fantastic video! I really like the fact that you didn't cut out the part where you has a little problem getting the lock plate on the left bank. I hate when I see other video's that were stopped at a trouble spot and picked back up after the struggle. This video show EXACTLY what to expect. I just bought a '23 Traverse and know at some point will be doing this job. I've done lots of timing chains and belts, but not on this particular GM engine. I saved your video for future use. Thank you for explaining everything. I look forward to more of your video's.
This is the video I had been searching for. Since I own a 2018 suv with this specific engine. Very helpful and none of that BS. Appreciate you for making this video available.
Dude I like how you describe this, very clear and concise, I get that confusion too man with this half beast, I've done this 3 times and still get a crankshaft correlation code knowing by all indicators that my marks are properly lined up, suspecting a bad phaser now, going to use your trick to check them without disassembling again unless I have to. I have a Cadillac CTS 3.0 6 speed I've never had running right, bought it needing timing chains, I'm going to sell it because of this and other things but would really like to see how it actually runs when running right. Damn! I wish I had seen your video before doing this!! As a previous race mechanic myself on street stock engines I was thinking about counter rotating it but you know how they say that's not cool to do could possibly damage something though that never really made sense to me all being connected and moving in unison forward or backward should not make a difference. I Feel your pain, I HAVE to edit my vids because that much profanity would demonetize me. Excellent tips.. I've also found that my engine eats oil filters, they are just really tiny on this car and that's a massive problem if you're not paying attention, fortunately they're quite easy to change but I change about two filters for every 1 oil change interval which is already shorter due to the way these are princess engines.
I hope it helps you, I still have to put up the caddy SRX4 I did this job on that had me make this video. Between yard work etc that’s gotta be done before winter settles in I haven’t edited it yet. You gotta make sure every mark is lined up and the ones on that primary chain have to be centered perfectly in the holes on the idlers, then rotate it forward then back and recheck 2 or 3 times real pain. But if you keep these clean and stay up on the maintenance, they seem to hold up. Will they ever be the 3000 series, no but ok engines. Let me know how it goes, thanks for your support.
@@angelsautomotivediy I know about those chores and the like and I'm no video editor either and I have hours and hours of vids that I've yet to edit and post up sadly I have to sleep sometime, but I'm also potentially losing money not getting them and moreover they can help other people like yours have, albeit a few months late for me to alleviate my pain and anguish over this hunk. Currently I'm working on a Touareg that I've had languishing in my garage for about 4 years and it was languishing outside the guys house I got it from previously for about a year or two. It had interior water damage from the well known hatch leaks and they never pushed out the drain plugs in the tire well it's black and in Florida sun so it was a near biohazard inside, I mitigated that and it's just been sitting waiting for me to have some time and money to get to it. I took it as a partial trade for an RX8 I rehabbed and that was a mistake at the time but supposedly it had had the heads worked on by a VW "master tech" except that's not supposed to be possible with the engine in the car anyway the engine was trashed oil junk build up in the valley and likely the oil pan like I've never seen before which is why he probably stopped. With only 130 something thousand miles someone wasn't maintaining the oil properly. I bought another silver Touareg at the time I got his and paid like 600 for his all of these are V8's but supposedly the engine was good low mileage under a 100,000, but again water damaged and in this case it killed the ECU. I also have/had a daily driver with 217,000 on it but ran/runs excellent until the hurricane forced water into the security lockout under the dash and it got the steering fault indicator and was going to be too expensive and involved to repair. I got that one paid off by insurance and now it's my donor truck along with the other one and my sons and I transplanted the engine and Tranny from the ECU Touareg into it and got it running at least a couple of years ago and then life took over, lawn stuff and hurricanes and worse yet kids and such and it's just been sitting but now it's almost roadworthy again and I've nearly fully rehabbed it into a low mileage nice looking Touareg for it's years much nicer than my silver one
Sorry for the length, had to continue over on a new reply..... Keep an eye out for my vids if I ever get them edited and posted? I also gave you a credit mention in the Touareg vid but will also mention you in the CTS vid when I get back to it, props where props are due..BTW my sons who were 14 and 15 at the time and I, removed the engine and tranny through the front and not from underneath since I don't have a lift or a fancy hydraulic bench like the dealers have and reinstalled it the same way and that was some adventure but we got it done and safely and it does run! Now only one fault code for the camshaft sensor hopefully unlike the CTS it will actually ONLY be the camshaft sensor although not easy, the Touareg is MUCH simpler when it comes down to it, having done both now.. Though I didn't think so at the time, I'll take the Touareg anytime over the CTS for this job, I've done it 3 times on different Touaregs and 3 times on the same CTS POS and now will be a fourth..Making me appreciate my Treg that much more. Well that's it, again sorry for the length thought you might relate. Keep on keeping on..
@@angelsautomotivediy I do have one more question however? I did take all of my bolts out of my cover it isn't really THAT hard to remember because there are only really like two or three that are different in length or size than the other 20 or so and some are unmistakable the difference. However, having said that. I like your idea also because it can keep the centering shims inside as well, but you have to clean the motor cover and replenish the RTV so they are going to fall out while you do that?
@@kw57rx8dr.9 When you push the bolts in without them falling out keeping the shims in place prop it up against something and you’ll be able to clean it without them falling out I propped it on a cardboard box and cleaned it if one falls out it’ll be easier to put just one or two back.
Your very welcome, please like and subscribe if you haven’t already and check this video out ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PmXsdDs66os.htmlsi=RlQ1B_sNTOIZn53c It’s what made me make this video.
Thank you. Please like and subscribe if you haven’t already. And check out the video that made me make this one. 👇🏽 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PmXsdDs66os.htmlsi=RlQ1B_sNTOIZn53c
I wish i found this video yesterday about leaving the bolts in the cover. I tried to organize them on cardboard i poked and tried to align like the cover but didnt go as planned...great video
I'm looking at that train wreck of complexity & although it might be 15% less powerful, a pushrod V6 was pure genius !!! This Should be named the "Deep Pockets" V6
LOL, yes sir the Grand National Typhoon and Cyclone are awesome examples and ZZ performance has a ton of goodies for 3800 V6s supposedly a stock block can handle 500 HP. Thanks for the view and comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.
Excellent video 👍 makes me love my ecotec commodore so much more , much easy to work on . Alloytecs here in australia 🇦🇺 absolute madness . The thermostat is at the fire wall 🤪 etc
Ha ha yes.I have a 2004 VZ Commodore alloytech. At 230,OOO klm its been good and ive done the pcv mod recently -but i still think i would have gone with the Ecotech 3.8 had i known when i got my 3.6 14 years ago 😅
@ncckirk I just done my old man's timings chains on 06 vz , vary time consuming but straight forward , had a mobile mechanic set chains so they are done right first time , then I put all back together, saved thousands of dollars works goods now starts first time every time , has 220km on the clock , cleaned up pvc and modified drilled it out , so far so good ,
I have an 09’ Malibu LTZ w/ the LY7 Engine, 6 speed VVT, bought the car from a dealer with 75k miles, one owner (some grandpa bought EVERY package you could on this & stuck it in a garage for 10 years), got sparks redone, balanced & aligned plus a k&n oil filter for the intake (gets like 30+ mpg on 70 mph cruse), a few cosmetics here and there & change that oil every 5k at least my man! I’m hoping to keep this well over 200K miles! Cool Video! (I pray & hope for no timing issues)
I have one of these fully disassembled. Got it like that, so all the bolts are in disarray and everything, and its all dirty too so I gotta clean the thing before putting it together. This will be very useful for when I reach this point in the build. If possible, I would fully appreciate it if you made a full assembly video or series for this engine so I at least have something to start with.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PmXsdDs66os.htmlsi=fWRSVDKWsyelwZM0 You can watch this video 👆🏽it should help, it was the reason I made the tips video. If I get an opportunity too maybe I’ll be able to make that video. Thanks for watching and the comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.
I don't have this worry! Reasons: * Been using FULL-SYNTHETIC for yeeeeeaars. * NEVER beyond 5K for O/C interval. * ALSO- 1 cup of Seafoam in oil about a month before an oil-change really does good cleaning.
Changing your oil regularly will definitely keep the engine cleaner, however the rear bank on these 2010 and earlier need to have the larger pcv holes. The chain stretch is not gonna be stopped by oil changes with any oil, nor help with gunky valves due to direct injection. Thanks for the comment and watching, take care.
@@angelsautomotivediy I don't know if you are aware the having a "low volatility" will make a difference with the "gunky intakes". I have been using Pennzoil "ULTRA" platinum full synthetic in 3 GDI engines for a few years now because of oil tests by "Project Farm" channel. The guy that ran the test on the leading synthetic oils does some EXTREMELY DETAILED testing. The Pennzoil had the lowest LOSS in the evaporation test, even lower than Amsoil! The type AND brand of oil DOES make a difference, important for GDI engines!
Amazingly stupid engines, I like my 09' Acadia but the other day it started throwing the P0008 code🙄🙄🙄. It still runs fine though, no loud noise coming from The timing cover area so not sure if its panic time yet? If It is please let me know because I dont have $450-$600 for the timing kit. Its a shame when you get a car that you like but only to find out its a nightmare to work on. I consider myself a pretty advanced skill do-it-yourselfer, but I have to say this job is scaring me a little. Lastly, I see the engine is still in the car, is this possible for an Acadia too or no? Great video though thank you
I have a 2007 Chevrolet Captiva LTZ 3.2L V6. Got it from an elderly couple living in an old age home, about 50k km on the clock. Did an alignment and oil change. Car gets going fast. Unfortunately my timing change is probably poop right now and she's not starting, she's spinning straight. Chevrolet isn't very common in south africa(I'm south african) so it's really difficult for me to get it fixed correctly. I'm currently doing research so i can educate myself. This engine is very tricky
Excellent video, thank you. I'm trying to start my 2010 cadillac srx compared to a timing chain code so I decided to replace it myself. But I made the mistake of not starting the engine on time before. disarm it. From there I am lost. I have already disassembled and reassembled the timing 3 times without any success. But with your references from this video I will. Try again. I only have one question: by putting the crankshaft in its stage 2 position, can I disconnect the chain from Bank 2 and manually rotate the cams until they are in their flat TDC position? Wouldn't the valves be damaged?
Thanks Albert. Okay this is a tough one and hope the valves are not damaged. If you didn’t rotate anything and put the chains on it should be close to where it needs to be we hope. You did it three times hopefully you did it the same all three times. You have to put it at top dead center number one cyl lock the cams and see where your marks are and start from there. You can’t rotate the cams once the chain is disconnected because you can bend the valves. Hopefully this hasn’t happened. You have a little wiggle room to move a cam slightly the other way you could would be to bring the pistons down as close to neutral(half way) in the cyl then you can rotate it if you really had too, but chain off on that bank only of course but if you are that far off chances are you bent a valve already. You’d have to do a compression test on each cyl to see if you have a bent valve or a leak down test. You can also use an inspection camera and look at each piston to see if you have valve marks on the piston from a valve coming in contact. Take your time I know it can get frustrating but you have to have patience. Thanks for the comment and view please like and subscribe if you haven’t and watch the other video I made that had me make this video. Good luck. 👇🏽 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PmXsdDs66os.htmlsi=7EZApMvM54hWCLHV
Camshafts removed from passenger side but not driver side. Timing never changed there. Now trying to find timing on passenger. Already into the situation of the chain marks not lining up anymore on driver side. Will top dead center always make sure the camshafts are where they are supposed to be in the sequence even if the chain marks don't match up? And does setting the chain marks correctly on the passenger side mean it's not in time if the marks aren't also lined up on the driver side? Thanks
Ok I’m assuming your primary chain wasn’t touched either. So the drivers side and primary should be ok but you should try to check. The color links are there to assist you however the marks are physically there. So with that being said, put number one cylinder at top dead center that would have everything lined up properly and then you’re gonna have to line up the marks on the cams on the passenger side, which is where number one cylinder is the good thing is you can rotate the motor around without having to worry about hitting the valves because you have the cams removed you said, so get that to TDC then put the cams back in line up the marks very carefully lock the cams and put the chain on count the links if you count the link that on the mark it will be 12 if you count in between it’ll be 10 then rotate the engine forward by hand a few rotations then backwards to see the marks all lineup and you should be OK from that point. Thanks for the view and comment. I hope this helps you out please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.
Hello I did something wrong I put the left vvt spocket in the left hand and thr right vvt in the right hand too, I got this code only P0016 but engine its pretty good idle stable too any symtom for this code? I bought this car with all 3 streched chains and all 4 vvt damaged now engine feels and sound better im not sure if I have to switch the vvt intake sprocket to engine improve more. I will really appreciate any advice.
So you changed the phasers and chains? And you said all 4 vvt are you saying the solenoids or the sensors were damaged? You said the idle is pretty stable no valves were bent right because if all 4 whatever were damaged that sounds like something let go completely. Take a look at my tips video. Let me know if that helped. The correlation code could be from the phaser being bad or the chain being off a tooth. When you time this engine you want to spin it forward then backwards the same amount of revolutions to recheck your timing marks. Let me know how it goes please like subscribe if you haven’t already. Thanks.
Hello thanks for reply I changed all 4 phasers and chains but the intakes phaser I put it back L in bank 1 and R in bank 2 and now after I saw your video I think thats why I have the P0016, the valve are not bent, the engine pretty stable@@angelsautomotivediy
If thats the case you’re gonna have to go back in there and swap them over. Pain in the ass I had to go back in again as well the first go around too. All part of the learning process.
Good God! Wife and I just picked up 2008 Acadia for $1K with this monster 3.6L with 184k on the engine and drove it home. No history known other than the previous owner took care of nothing did no maintenance on it. Struts, shocks, Stab bushings shot, Plugs likely original and worn, Atleast one coil I can hear snapping in the back (#5 I believe), valve cover rear leaking and water pump found to be leaking and I replaced with new. Started buying all the ignition and suspension part and then I saw the videos on the timing chains. I hope ours has been replaced but I'll know when I pop valve covers. Oil was blacker than an Ace of spades and 2-3qts overfilled. I am considering replacing suspension, ignition, tires and launching this thing for 3-4k and getting something else. Its a hard decision since the vehicle interior is pretty good and it is an AWD with 3rd row seats. Blows cold air and hot heat too. Decision, Decisions. What do you think????
Well you don’t have a ton into it if the body and interior is good and you do all the maintenance items, it’ll be less than a new car and you should have a decent ride after. I always say it’s cheaper to repair a car than buy a new one but like I said as long as the body isn’t rusting away. How’s the transmission? Thanks for the view and comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.
@@angelsautomotivediy Body is really near perfect. No damage or rust. Need to polish headlight lenses of course. Transmission actually shifts perfectly. Im going to keep the Acadia and will only sell it after I buy a newer one with less miles and essentially trade up. I have an auction lead on a 2015 with 140K and its a Denali too. Wife likes it because its purple. So If I can get for $2000-3000 then We will be trading up. It ALWAYS cheaper to buy used and even broken if you inspect it correctly than buying a new car and getting wrapped up into a payment with interest. You are very correct!
I got caught slipping on my oil top offs, due to a misfire on #2 (05 caddy srx 3.6 ly7). Got truck in garage and immediately brought back to level, pulled upper plenum, ohmed all injectors (12.5-13.4 across board) I elected to throw an injector, coil, and cleaned plug on #2) buttoned truck back together, started truck to find significant noise from bank 1 front of valve cover (I feel like that exhaust cam phaser probably went oil starved and failed). So, diag must continue to see if pcm internal driver for injector 2 is toast (pcm damage internally) if that phaser is busted, I'm taking truck off the road for the season, till I feel like throwing money at the situation, cause rn I'm BROKE! 😂
Oh, and my code reader just bought the farm. Opened that up, and found a burn on the microchip/motherboard. So, I gotta source another code reader too, lol
Man keep your head up one thing at a time that’s it man. Pull the intake off and valve cover off on bank one and check the phaser what sucks is you’ll have to take the whole thing apart to retime it there’s a tool you can buy and use but it’s expensive easier to just pay the sweat equity. Thanks for the view and comment.
Got an 07 STS that has had its oil changed at the dealership from date of purchase, been full synthetic the entire time and longest oil change interval has been 4k. Car is 17 years old, 115k, and now gets driven very rarely. It had an oil change in January at 113k and the date said July or miles at 120k. But car is115k.
That is were a bore scope comes in real handy. The 8mm scope works great as you get a better picture and you can zoom in. They make a Articulating Borescope with Light, which works great for this even with the cover on and the valve cover off you can see what going on down deep inside the cover. Those side mounted engine are the worse by far.
I bought a used GMC Acadia 2008 a couple years ago... Had an Engine light then been driving fine all this time. Did a scan and tossing P0014 and P0017 think this is basically this issue. What happens if I don't do this repair? Is it worth fixing what does this cost to do? I wanna get my Engine light off so I can use my command start.
If you don’t do the repair eventually you’ll damage the engine either the chain will snap and you’ll see all the fun that causes or it’ll jump timing altogether and not run or run poorly if it’s bad enough the valves might touch the pistons. That’s bad lol. I’m always a repair kind of guy but it all depends on if the chassis and body is ok and not rotted out your In Canada so I know you guys pain being in the rust belt myself. As far as cost figure about $2000 US plus if you find a shop that will do it .
2014 buick enclave owner with 101K miles on it. The engine still strong the main key is regular oil change DON'T GO OVER 5K MILES in between oil changes, actually I'm planning to start doing it at 4K. I good friend of mine GM technician advice me to don't go by the oil life monitoring computer from the vehicle it would be to long in between oil changes. Dont forget to service the PCV valve
Staying on top of the oil changes and maintenance is very important with any engine but especially with these to keep the oil passages clean and the vvt solenoids as well. However the chain stretch can’t be prevented by oil changes. The chains on these are a wear item and will have to be changed at some point and you’re nearing that milestone. Thanks for the view and the comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already take care.
They are a SAAB engine, the design came when GM bought SAAB. Must open the breather up and run diesel oil in them! In Aus there North south mounted but unfortunately that meams the thermostat is at the back of the engine!.. dang!
great video, continuing to watch it but just a comment at around 5:00 in you talk about LEFT and RIGHT banks, but then you refer to the RIGHT BANK (closest to firewall) as the LEFT BANK or did I misunderstand? I always get confused between LEFT and RIGHT BANKS when they call out things like O2 Sensors and use the BANK1/BANK2 terminology...I understand in that context BANK1 is the bank where #1 cylinder is located, so there's that. I just wish the OEM's would be consistent and with cars having both longitudinal and transverse mounted engines just stop using the old LEFT/RIGHT nomenclature and stick with the BANK1/BANK2 when it comes to engine orientation...but that's just me lol thanks for doing video, great job!
I have an impala limited, last generation of this engine. Runs flawlessly, only had to replace the purge valve. I am not nice to this car. It doesn't matter anyway, the block could crack in half, it would still be a fraction of the cost to replace vs spending an asinine amount of money on a new vehicle.
I’m not easy on any of my cars either and absolutely repair a car before buying one prices are ridiculous and quality is low. Thanks for the view and comment please like and subscribe.
I would say every engine not just these but with all the oil passages and tensioners relying on oil pressure one can argue especially these. Hey thanks for the view and comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.
@@angelsautomotivediy I have had some old Chevys that can tolerate hit or miss oil change intervals and still stand up for a good long time. This V6 needs to stay clean inside,
What brand of timing chain is that? I see it has 5 links across. The Cloyes and others only have 4 links across. I want to install the best chain possible. Thanks for the video on this. It was very helpful.
It’s the GM genuine kit #12700436 got it from Rock Auto. Thanks for the view and please like and subscribe if you haven’t already. Check out the full video here 👉🏽ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PmXsdDs66os.html
Thanks, yes I’ve seen that comes in handy I believe they also have one for the Chrysler 3.6l that come with there own set of issues with rockers. Thanks for watching and the comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.
ar.pinterest.com/pin/740771838682789378/?amp_client_id=CLIENT_ID%28_%29&mweb_unauth_id= 👆🏽 that link for a diagram I go over that in this video as well as in this video 👉🏽 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PmXsdDs66os.htmlsi=FKiOaRtl_ct6Agq7 Please like and subscribe if you haven’t already thank you for the view and comment.
Got 2011 commodore RWD. At 170km the pump went on 6 spd auto. Common problem! $5k replacement. I service it myself doing engine every 5k. Cheap insurance!!!!! Just do it. And service ur auto/manual plus the diff! Sv
Absolutely, maintenance is key with these bad boys, they seem to hold up well as long as you maintain them. Thanks for the comment and view please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.
Thank you. The one I used in the video is from an engine calibration kit but you can buy just the compression whistle from Amazon, for about $16.07 plus shipping. IPA tools part #7894.
It’s an issue but not a recall issue, because it happens at the 100,000 mile plus mark, not 20,000 it’s more of a maintenance item. A pricey one at that but maintenance none the less. Most manufacturers don’t even give 100,000 mile warrantees. They see it as the car went 100,000 miles plus, so that’s good. Were used to hearing timing chain and associate that with longevity and not needing to do it for a very long time or ever. Modern engines however with quad cam overhead designs require multiple chains to run and have complex engineering put into them and have these weak points more and more. Thanks for the comment and view please like and subscribe if you haven’t already. Thank you.
@angelsautomotivediy do you know if the problem has been addressed in later versions? I think the oldest model year I've seen was 2012, or 2013. I'm speaking specifically about the 3.6 in the GMC Acadia.
To my knowledge no. Just stay on top of your maintenance and if you start getting cam correlation codes check for chain stretch and don’t ignore it. If needed do the repair and you should be good for another 100,000 plus.
Just got a 2011 Acadia and oil was low about 1 1/4 quarts. Found oil from the intake and the pcv was completely clogged. Horribly. Wondering if low oil is what kills these things and not not necessarily oil change frequency
Low oil can wreck any motor, but that’s the pcv issue with these things. Catch cans all around. And sludge does seem to be an issue with these, thanks to passages and oil solenoids Etc. Thanks for the view and comment. Please like and subscribe will help the channel grow.
I am about to put an 2015 engine in a 2011 Traverse. I plan on doing the chains before I do the swap. Doe the 2015 engines still need the modified pvc and catch can. If I have researched correctly the 2015 has an upgraded valve cover gasket that should fix it.
The later ones had the upgrade for the pcv but I’ve heard mixed reviews about it. Many say the same deal with it a catch can wouldn’t hurt it seems all modern engines can use a catch can.
@@justinstatham6378 You can use the Dorman I did on this very truck but I would have liked to use the GM but I needed to finish the car. Unfortunately Dorman is hit or miss but when you need something they always seem to have what you need.
You do, but there is a tool. The tool is a little expensive. If you’re gonna do it on a regular basis, you could buy the tool but to do it the one time I don’t know that’s up to you. Thanks for the view and comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.
Sorry man, my engine jumped 3 links on the primary chain, both left & right banks were still tight and ok, the primary tensioner just shit itself for reasons it only knows and started to chew up metal on the chain and crank sprocket wearing metal away allowing the links to slip, counting the links wont always help. Always remove the water pump before you remove the timing chain as a lot of coolant is withheld inside and it will dump and spill down into the sump opening causing a huge problem.
i changed my chain set , with a QUALITY SET . it ran like a swiss-watch for about a year..... now its gone to shit with a fault on the exhausat cam..... after i fix it , THIS TIME ... i'm selling it.... i'm pissed , i really love the vehicle ...
Damn really, sorry to hear that I’d say check the vvt solenoid and cam sensor and phaser if you did the chains they couldn’t have stretched that fast in a year. Please like and subscribe if you haven’t already thank you.
2500-3000 for the job at the dealership, I have a video coming gotta edit it this was a quick tips video I myself had to go back in I explain why in that one. And yeah both banks can’t do just one gotta do all three chains.
@@alakrang.7775 I don’t know your ability but if you take your time and have tools maybe but if if you don’t do it right the motor can be severely damaged. This job isn’t just an oil change.
there are a zillion of these engines in junkyards ,, find one with 50 thousand or so miles on it and replace the whole engine .. i am soon to do that with my 08 suzuki xl7 3.6 ..
Im doing this for the first time and ready to lose it, got the tools on, all links are lined up with the dots and holes in the idlers, with the tools installed the crank dots dont line up, I cant figure out how to set this properly, nothing makes sense. Need some help here.
Ok this job is a pain to do you gotta be real careful you don’t rotate the engine and bend a valve. Take your time and step away for a little while then go back to it. Before you lined up all of the other marks you should’ve had the crank in time. Before taking everything off it should’ve been tdc number one cylinder and then time it in second stage. Take a look at my Cadillac srx video which was the first video before I made the tips video. Let me know if that helps and we can try from there. I cannot emphasize do not turn it over completely. You do not wanna bend those valves.
This mystery is solved, long story short, the marks will not line up until you have the tensioners pumped full of oil. After reassembling and retiming the motor, I took the plugs out and spun it over with my kickass super powerful Mac sealed head air rachet until the tensioners were pumped full and then the marks were proper. So it was right the first time, but with this being my first time timing one of these motors I was not positive I was doing it proper and did' not want to have to take it apart again.
i have searched all over the internet and can't seem to find the technical reason for timing in stage 1 and 2. No matter what all the links line up. I have seen a couple videos that say time in stage 2 only. Others say they ended up with misfire codes by not performing the stage 1 process and then stage 2. Do you know why GM wants this done in 2 stages?
Hello. I really don’t know why, it really just complicates the whole job. I did it both ways the first with stage one and two the second in stage two only. The first I didn’t rotate the engine to seat the chain and I cleaned the valves because they were right there, that caused the engine to stumble and didn’t start had to try again then she fired up but the chain had already jumped so I got the correlation code again on the right bank so I went in again and did it in stage two only. Bring number one to top dead center then rotate to stage two lock your cams line up your marks, torque everything up then rotate forward however many times you like then rotate backwards same amount all marks line up your good finish it all up.
@@angelsautomotivediy I also did stage one only and ended up with correlation codes. Pulled apart and re-checked and everything was still in time. So I have been digging for the technical reason for it. Weird I can’t find that information. Phasers should be locked. Can’t understand why it would matter what position anything was in as long as the links line up.
@@chad541121 count the links between on the cams and make sure the links are perfectly in the windows on the idler gears on the primary chain. Check the phasers with a 19 mm on the cam if it moves that phaser is bad you’ll see the trigger wheel move it should not rotate.
I just timed one for the first time there is a 44 minute video that explains it very easily, I also held both vCt chains together and they were the same length so I didn’t order new chains, but I ordered the primary chain and it turned out it was stretched when held beside each other, Maybe it was your primary chain too?
I’m sorry your having trouble with your ride but stop the parts cannon. Your gonna have to look at the timing chain itself. I don’t know your mechanical ability, but it sounds like your willing. Your gonna have to remove the intake and valve aka cam covers and look at the chain itself and check for stretch. That’s most likely what’s going on. Id it’s the chains which most likely it is I don’t know your mileage model etc. but you gotta dig a lil deeper now. It’s not an easy job you can ruin your engine if you do it wrong so your at a crossroad but you can at least inspect it further and make a determination. Let me know what you decide or find take care thanks for the view. Please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.
@@angelsautomotivediy 2008 Buick Enclave CXL 3.6L V6 2WD. Timing chain was already done a few days ago. Along with 1 VVT Solenoid. And the 4 sensors. And only codes I have are camshaft related.
They can do that mileage, but this job will have to be done and with that mileage it has to have been done already at the very least once. Thanks for the comment and view please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.
@@viniciusrochafaria6936it all depends on maintenance everything eventually wears out I mean your almost at 300 that’s pretty damn good that would be one of the highest I’ve seen. As far as checking if it was done you’d have to actually look at the components if they used gm your not gonna be able to tell if it’s aftermarket you’d have to look for markings but I guarantee it’s been done at least once.
FYI… With the cam flats are flat. All of the valves are closed in the heads. I removed my heads with the flats inline and discovered this. And because this is an interference engine, it is good to know this detail when turning the crankshaft without the timing chains on.
Absolutley never ever turn an engine over with the chains off if it’s an interference engine. You have a small amount of play to fine tune but not a lot.
That’s strange idk why that would be. Design change maybe the wrong chain gotta look at a manual form that specific car and see if there’s a change or difference. Thanks for watching, please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.
It's a 2005 with the old style phasers. The cts came in as a no start with low compression on all 6 cyl.. The first thing I checked was the timing chain. Replaced that, and it still has low compression. I'm pulling the heads tomorrow. I suspect the rings may be worn since all 6 cylinders have low compression. Bank 1 has about 60 psi, bank 2 in the low 100psi.
If you have a borescope, try to take a look and see if the valves are bent before you pull the heads because if it jumped timing too far it’s an interference engine and if you bend them valves you’ll see the marks on the Pistons or you’ll see the valves, not seating properly with a scope. It’ll save a bunch of time.
@angelsautomotivediy the timing was correct on the old chain, and it wasn't very loose. I've seen 3 valve tritons with the chains loose enough to slip over the cam gears and still run. The customer bought the car not running because the seller said it just needed a chain. 6 bent valves are unlikely, and it has 60-100psi on all cylinders. I'm thinking burnt exhaust valves or rings. Something that will effect all 6 cylinders. Thanks for responding, man. It's also slow to build up compression. It takes a few extra revolutions to get the compression high enough to move the needle on the guage.
With proper maintenance there not bad there not the 3000 series push rod V6’s but there ok they’ll get 200,000 plus. The twin turbo version is a monster it’s just you gotta do these chains and stay up on maintenance. Just seems to be the way of things these days with the manufacturers they ALL seem to have there issues, Japanese included just is what it is. Thanks for the comment and view please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.
@@angelsautomotivediy These motors are built to fall apart before 150k miles. They're nightmare motors. I had the misfortune of having a first-gen GM Hi Output 3.6... Bought the car 'cuz it looked good. Never had another GM, although it would've been my favorite car if the motor was actually good. That car was an early 2000's, but they still make these motors, with the same problems. You have to know about the timing chain design flaws in order to keep a Hi Output running. You have to KNOW that it throws no CEL, you gotta KNOW that it can never be even a little low on oil, and you also have to KNOW that the chain still stretches lol!. You gotta know the symptoms show at idle, and by the time they do it's probably too late. You said twin turbo. These motors are already too powerful for their own good. Forget for a second the timing issues (which are ridiculous -- guides made of plastic come on?) Forget the dumb timing design. These Hi Outputs blow valves too. Even if you do the timing, it's probably not going to make it to 200k miles because it'll blow a valve or something equally catastrophic. Not even the GM dealership understands these motors btw. Nobody ever wants another one of these, once they've already had one. Only a total GM nerd can use one of these motors, because only they'll know exactly how to take care of it. No, you cannot follow the GM recommended service.
Every engine out there uses plastic timing guides, yes I know about the timing chain issues and as far as dealerships come on there not the best many don’t have good techs anymore there are some but most have checked out the industry is not what it was. Most everything is throw away these days as well but there are millions of these motors around the world never said there the best but again with proper Maintenance they can do just fine the chains are part of that as I stated in the video but hey it is what it is I’m not naïve to the issues. But that wasn’t the title nor the purpose of the video.
