3-4 years and it hasn't been an issue. While it wasn't ideal, and I would have cleaned it off better before pulling the intake, I made sure to clean it out before dropping the new one on. And leave it to a guy named holley to comment on my edelbrock video. Lol
I GOT A 1990 K5 BLAZER 5.7 I JUST REBUILD MY ENGINE AND I GOT THE SAME INTAKE AND UP GRADED MY CAM AND UNGRADED MY TORQUE CONVERTER TO A 2000 TO 2400 STALL I HAD TO GET MY CHIP PROGRAM TO GET MY TRUCK TO RUN RIGHT ..I GOT ABOUT 950 MILES ON ENGINE SO FAR..
Yeah. I would recommend a chip with this intake, depending on your other upgrades. I was running this with the stock cam and heads, 1.6 roller rockers, headers, open exhaust, and high flow air filter, and a tbi injector pod spacer. Those were all right on the limit of the stock injectors and chip. Edelbrock used to give you a chip if you had their heads, cam, intake, and headers. Even with their heads and cam, you are only looking at 325lb-ft. I would feel pretty disgusted if I spent $2500 and only had 325lb-ft of torque to brag about. How big is your cam? Sounds like a fun truck. I wish I had a square body! I built a tbi truck back in the mid 2000s. I wasn't very impressed with the performance of my custom chip. That's partly why I swapped to a carb after I swapped heads and cam. I'm currently running trick flow 175 heads, a comp xfi252hr roller cam, 1.6 roller rockers, flowtech headers, a single 4" open exhaust for a 6.5 turbo diesel from diamond eye, and a vortech centrifugal supercharger on a holley sniper 4bbl tbi system. I'm running an edelbrock 2604 intake. It's a performer air-gap for a carburetor. Comp's software estimated 406hp@5500 and 463ft-lbs@3500rpms before the supercharger. The cam builds great off-idle torque. The supercharger takes over on the top end. It builds about 8lbs of boost at 5200. That's enough to max out the injectors on my sniper system. It is rated for 650hp but technically it should support 800hp naturally aspirated. A datalog showed 394lbs/hr at 5200rpms. 8psi should give about 50% more horsepower than naturally aspirated so I'm guessing about 625-650hp. I also swapped to a 4L80E transmission. That trans was a major improvement over the turbo 400. Overdrive adds a major drivability boost.
hey im gonna change the screw and where i have a nut on the end of it ..i already put the 18 psi spring in but i havent started to adjust it yet to i get that screw my tuner told me to try that spring maybe i old one was weak but when i put the 18 psi spring in with out even adjusting the gauge is stilling reading 10psi it seen like when i started it up it move alittle bit but them went back to 10 psi i got xe262h cam in there ..i drove it with the guage showing 10psi its like its idle is alittle high alittle over 1000 rpm if i frist start it up the idle is good around about 700 or 800 rpm but once i put it in gear ot step on the gas the the idle goes up and wont go back down it runs okay but the acceleration power is not there ..hopefully he can redo that chip and get it right i no some times you got to do them a few time to get it right i use to beable to get rubber with my old stock motor and this one got rebild and up grades so i no it anit right..it would be a hold lot better if someone can burn that chip and can hook it up at the same time and see the reading i will be good..i will let you no what i find out..you have a email adress
Yes. The rocker arms made a difference. With the tiny stock cam, it's not worth as much as a better cam. The higher you rev, the more of a difference it makes. I have a video on it. Be careful with the water neck coming out of the back passenger side of the intake manifold. Mine broke off immediately and I spent most of the day trying to repair it. Higher ratio rockers amplify what you already have... they give you about 6% more valve lift and add a negligible amount of duration. If your heads flow good past your current peak lift and you can take advantage of the higher lift, they will perform better. If you are already maxing out your heads, the extra lift won't help as much. I think it dropped a couple tenths from my 0-60. A perfect storm situation will give you 30hp from stock stamped rockers to 1.6 full roller. The rollers are worth about half and the extra lift is worth the other half. On a truck engine that makes peak power at 4000rpms and has .385"/.402" lift, you might see 8-10hp at most. That would put your valve lift around .410"/.429". I'm currently running a set of trick flow heads and a comp xfi roller cam. I have a carbureted intake and am running holley sniper fuel injection. I've also added a vortech centrifugal supercharger for some definite overkill. . And I'm still using these same roller rockers. Let's call it 650hp. I haven't gotten it on a dyno yet.. damn covid. Datalogs show im using enough fuel to make 800hp. It is an absolute monster on the street. I also upgraded to a 4L80E transmission so I'm not screaming everywhere I drive. I'd be cruising at 4000rpms on the interstate! If you're comfortable working on your own stuff, I'd slap a set of headers and exhaust, get this intake, run a set of roller rockers, and install electric fans. I feel like that was about as far as I'd like to take the stock tbi. I was running a rich/lean indicator gauge and it was starting to lean out a little at wide open throttle in the upper rpms. You can increase fuel pressure as a crutch to get a little extra flow, but mine was plenty responsive and made great off-idle power and got as good fuel mileage as I've ever gotten with that setup. I've gone the custom chip route and that's why I didn't do it with this truck. I was unhappy with my chip. I've heard good things about harris performance but I’ve never personally dealt with them. Good luck with your projects.
Yes. This manifold retains all of the stock mounting locations. It is a quarter inch taller than the stock manifold but everything bolts up the same. Even the vacuum port for the power brakes is in the factory location. On the performer air-gap carbureted manifold #3604, I had to modify the brake vacuum line for it to fit into a different location.
I feel like there was an improvement. If nothing else, the stock 25-35 year old manifolds are getting harder and harder to come across and it's a great looking stock replacement intake. Is it worth the $450+ for a new one? Not necessarily. I bought mine used on ebay for $250. The previous owner bought it new and never installed it. I had previously broken the heater hose fitting on the back of the intake next to the distributor while upgrading to the roller rocker arms. I'm not sure I would spend much more than that for an intake manifold for a relatively stock tbi motor today. I only ran this intake for 6-8 months before swapping to aftermarket heads and a roller camshaft. I swapped to a carburetor and have been running an edelbrock 2604 performer air-gap ever since. It's been about 2 years since I went to holley sniper efi and nearly a year since I installed a centrifugal supercharger. This manifold definitely didn't make the power that I'm making now. It did pull down decent mileage though. I got as good as 12.5mpg with my old pickup. My very first tank in the truck was 8.4mpg and it was an absolute turd. It couldn't even do a burnout while trying to brake torque it. At the end of the video, I could spin the tires at will by stepping on the throttle too quickly. That is with headers, catless and mufflerless 2 3/4" exhaust, 1.6 roller rockers, a high flow air filter, and electric fan with a turbo 400 transmission and 4.10 gears on 245/75R16 all terrains. I feel like it made the truck more fun but $450+ is a lot of money to spend for the average joe who is daily driving a 30 year old truck.
I have the standard radio and not the cassette player with equalizer. That is thr factory installed pocket that goes in place of the tape player/equalizer. That's also where aftermarket radios are often installed. You can find them on ebay for about $40. 88-94 chevy truck center dash cubby bezel.
Hi, I have a 1988 k5 blazer and I just installed this intake manifold on my stock 350 small block. The issue I am having is hooking the return fuel line back up to the TBI, due to the new location of the EGR valve. Did you have any issues with this?
I have not had an issue with that. Maybe try pulling off the egr valve and installing the fuel return line first. Or maybe install the fuel return line before the fuel feed line. I'm presently running an Edelbrock 2604 carbureted performer air-gap intake manifold.
Yeah. I'm running flowtech afterburner headers. 49156-1FLT. Check the video description. The th400 trans broke 2nd gear within a year after this video. It now has a 4L80E. Overdrive and a lockup converter clutch are major quality-of-life improvements!
@@EricErnst I have a tb350 with Street and strip shift kits. It will loose traction it hits second so hard lol did your how much 0-60 did it increase? Probably a second or 2 ?
@@zachnickles7655 I'd done some other motor upgrades in the meantime so it wasn't an apple to apple comparison. I'm also very traction limited. I need to start doing 10-70 or 20-80. The truck currently has different cylinder heads, cam and valvetrain, intake manifold, exhaust, fuel injection system, and boost than it had in this video. Over triple the flywheel horsepower of the stock rating. If I had traction, I could do 0-60 in well under half the time now.. according to the calculator I've used.
@@EricErnst go to a 245 that’s 9.6 inches wide. Traction is mostly in the tires. I’m assuming you still use your truck as a truck. If not traction bars and a softer leaf will help it roll the weight to the rear tires
@@zachnickles7655 it's an 8 lug k2500. It has 4.10 gears in both diffs. It's got a g80 in the rear. It has traction bars on the stock leaf springs. It came factory with 245/75R16s. I'm looking at a new set of 285/75R16s. . Although I've got a set of 33x14-16 mud tires. They're super swamper boggers so a skinnier tire would have better on-road traction.
hey i got 1990 k5 blazer tbi i rebuild my engine with a few up grades nothing big 3704 edelbrock intake headers 3' pipes rings and heads pretty mush stock i up graded my torque converter to a 2000 to 2400 stall... have a xtreme energy cam hydraulic flat tappet 4374/444 lift 206/212 duration 112 degrees it the next step up from stock i thought it would run with my computer with out messing around with the chip but i were wrone my buddy help me build it he no more about the high performance racing stuff..this have been a nightmare for me .i had to get my chip programed..and this is my second chip he made when i frist put the engine in with the factory chip the engine sound good but it didnt have no power like it shouild and would not idle the engine would surge up and down and cut off the frist chip it got alittle better where it didnt shut off but the power and acceleration speed wasnt there i can take off from a start and get into it and when i get about 45mph or about 2000 rpm i start to lose power no fuel it gradually picks up speed slowly ..the guy that did the chip said thats a good thing because there more room to turn the fuel up but i have to change the regulator spring in the tbi so im waiting for the other chip hopefully i should be good ..i really wanted a bigger cam because i want to hear it...but i was on a budget with my money ..if i would have none i were better off with the holley sniper EFI...BY NEXT SUMMER IF EVERY GO OKAY IM GONNA GO THAT ROUTE AND PUT A BIGGER CAM IN THERE THAT WHAT I REALLY WANT IM NOT SATISFIED WITH THE SOUND AT ALL..
My cam is pretty conservative too.. it's only 202/212. It's a roller cam with higher lift at .550/.546. Mine is a 113 lsa. I didn't even try to use the stock tbi stuff once I put the cam and heads on. I built a tbi motor a long time ago and it was a nightmare. I was very unhappy with the chip. It was expensive and did not work at all. The truck belched black smoke on wide open throttle and only got 6mpg. That was with vortec heads and an edelbrock rpm air gap vortec intake. I used an adapter to mount the tbi. It had big block injectors. I was running hooker headers and dual 2.5" glasspack exhaust. My current combo has awesome low end. It's immediate. Stomp it at a stoplight and you'll roast the tires as long as you want. It's in a heavy k2500 so I wanted to keep a small cam and mild converter because it's still a truck and I want to be able to tow skid steers or haul firewood or a pallet of mortar and brick. The 4.10 gears help with the low end power too. Aftermarket fuel injection is amazing. The computers are so much faster and better now. Back in the day, these things had like a 20hz computer. They can't react or compensate for spark and fuel nearly as quickly as the newer stuff. The sniper will run at whatever air:fuel ratio you want. The more you drive it, the better it gets. As a daily driver for the last few years, my sniper system is dialed in pretty damn good! I like to tinker and have made changes here and there but it always runs great. My truck has been down a couple times during a trans swap and supercharger install, but it's been driven a lot more than not. One issue that I had was that I tried to use 100 octane low lead gasoline from my airport. I wanted high octane to get aggressive with my timing curve when I first installed the supercharger. It ruined my wideband O2 sensor. It was a bonehead move and I should have known not to use leaded fuel with an O2 sensor. The truck ran awesome at first then began to degrade pretty quickly. That was entirely my fault. Luckily it was only 30 gallons of leaded gas.. Another time was early on after i installed the sniper when a header bolt started to come loose and the gasket started leaking at the head. If you have any exhaust leaks, it will not run right. I like to save tune files every now and then to keep a current backup. The way to limp it along during an exhaust leak is to just take it out of closed loop mode. It will run according to the learned fuel and not make adjustments to the fueling from O2 sensor data. If you have a good tune, you won't even notice a difference. If you wait too long to recognize that it's running bad, it will try to learn and tune with the exhaust leak. That's when you need to revert to an old tune and shut off closed loop until you can get it sealed up right. My tunes have been driven enough that I rarely see an O2 sensor compensation more than a couple percent. On first startup, i remember seeing it bounce to over 20% lean and rich. I've heard that if you can have it under 5%, you're dialed in dead nuts.. mine often flutters between -0 and 0. If it's a daily driver, you'll be golden. I'm also running the holley distributor and ignition system and coil. It was super easy and plug and play so I stuck with the holley stuff. You can get a regular distributor to work with computer timing control. Fueling is a good way to make it run right, but ignition timing is the key to making power and getting good mileage. I love having complete control of my ignition. I bought a cheap gauge and run it to my stock knock sensor to do street tuning. If I see and knock, I pull over and back off a couple degrees and try again. I was going to do a chassis dyno tune this spring but covid happened so everybody has been freaked out about that bullshit. I'll make it to one eventually. The dyno shop is a few hours from my hometown so I'll probably trailer it in case I break something. How big of a cam are you looking for? The thumper series have extra exhaust duration to give a rowdy idle and sound but still make good lower end power for pickups like ours. The tbi heads aren't known for good performance potential. You might want to look for a different set. Even a set of vortec heads would be a pretty good upgrade since you said it would be a little time before you could make some changes. Maybe you'll stumble upon a good deal. Just keep your eyes open. Good luck with everything. If you have any questions about my setup or suggestions, feel free to keep commenting.
Dylon Desbiens Thanks man. It's the factory dash. Once I get the video edited, I'll post a little quicker 0-60 pull. 10 seconds isn't exactly quick. Lol. I just slapped on some new heads and a roller cam.
87-95 trucks were hydraulic flat tappt cams. Cars were roller. 96-up pickups were roller. Since this video, I did put a roller cam in it. Along with a decent set of heads. And Holley's sniper tbi fuel injection. And a vortech supercharger. You should check out some of my newer videos.
and let me tell you it is so hard to get your hand back there to turn that screw to adjust the regulator im gonna have to change the screw that came with the kit and fint one with a nut on the bottom then i can put my small 1/4 ratchet back there so i can turn it..
hey whats going on buddy you still out there playing with that efi...i got some bad new for you ..my engine i had my friend rebuild i had to take it back out he fuck up some where i were blowing blue smoke out the exhaust i think i were using a quart of oil every 250 miles and #7 plug had oil on just the spark plug threads..iannd real main seal was leaking i no it sound bad i had put about 2000 miles on it so far.and plus he put the wrone size cam in it .im putting the ex 262h in there..when everything get done..with that cam i should be able to hear it..thats what i wanted..
Hey man. I'm working on putting my truck back together again. I'm rebuilding the front suspension, steering, front diff, and brakes. Steering wandered and pulled when I was doing datalogs at high speeds. It was a little hairy. The ball joints were factory 1990 units. I'm going to put a gov-lock up front so I have all 4 tires pulling when I drop it in 4wd. I have all of the parts. I just need the time to put them in. Lol. You know how it goes. Good luck with your engine. It sounds like valve stem seals.
Who is doing your chip? What tbi mods are you making? How big of a cam are you looking at? You'll need to pull your timing cover cover and drop your oil pan to change the cam. A cam is a whole lot more than just an intake swap. Same with your chip. You can't just plug in hp tuners like you can with newer obd2 stuff. You need to get one programmed for your combo and physically swap out the chip. The stock chip does not like it when you stray from stock. In this video, I was running dangerously lean at wot from just bolt-ons.. not touching the heads or cam. On top of all of that, tbi injectors are not big enough to support any kind of power past stock. You've got one big injector per bank of 4 cylinders. It is in a batch fire system. It fires enough fuel for all 4 cylinders at once. 350 injectors are 61#/hr. Bsfc is typically around 0.5lbs/hp/hr. 122 lbs/hr total fuel.. divided by 0.5. 244hp supported fuel at 100% duty cycle.. but running the injectors too high will overheat them.. they need "off time". Typically they try not to push them past 80%. Let's go on the ragged edge and go for 85%. That's 207hp worth of fuel injector on a stock tbi motor. Ok.. let's go big block injectors.. sounds like a good solution, right? This shortens the pulse width at idle.. batch fire system, right? The first intake valve to open gets a lot of fuel. So does the second. The next is starving for fuel. The last is lean as hell. The 15hz computer sees it as being lean, so it dumps adds duty cycle. . Still lean.. just flooding the first cylinder more. The engine runs like dog shit with super shitty mileage. With 81lb/hr big block injectors, you'll gain power to support a whopping 275hp with the horrible driveability that comes with it. I wish you the best, but I really think a carb swap is better if you have a cam.
@@EricErnst yea I did one on a 91 c1500 5.0 bout 3 years ago, I did a stage 1 edelbrock cam set from Autozone, new timing chain, new oil pump, factory intake that was cleaned up nice and that 91 ran like a top, I sold it cuz it was a 2wd, I’m just a chevy guy n like working on the small block engines, this 94 I’m gonna do the same thing I think, just a street legal stage 1, which is the next step above factory cam set
@@briarm3837 I think you at least need to bump up the fuel pressure by putting a stronger spring in the fuel pressure regulator. Did you use the tbi cam? My problem with the Edelbrock tbi package is that it doesn't make shit for power and it involves swapping to their aluminum heads, their cam, their headers, their intake manifold, AND their custom tbi chip. All for a whopping 240hp and 325lb/ft. Stock is 300lb/ft.. That is all in the tbi unit itself and the size of injectors. If you spend the same amount of money on a top end, you'd definitely want at least 1hp per cube. At least! I can see trying to bump up the power. I've tried it a couple times myself. In this truck, with this manifold and the other modifications that I'd already done, I was running dangerously lean at wide open throttle. I had a rich/lean indicator hooked to an extra O2 sensor hole. The gauge ran normal while cruising, but pegged the gauge on Lean under wide open throttle. That was with the stock cam and stock heads. I feel like it could have been remedied and maybe tuned out with higher fuel pressure. I'd really like to get my hands on a tbi chip from Edelbrock. They used to say lthey will provide you one for free if you give proof of purchase of their entire top end kit. (Thousands of dollars). Good luck with it. I'm currently working on a new project truck that I haven't introduced to the channel yet. I just put headers on last night. I'd like to add a small cam but I've been burned on this tbi stuff a few times before.
The rockers are in the video description. They are pro comp aluminum 1.6 roller rockers. Narrow-body, self-aligning. I bought them for $204 including tax back in 2016-2017ish. I used the factory pushrods. I have a different truck that I'm planning to add a roller cam and aluminum heads fed by a stock tbi unit.
I've heard 96-up fuel pumps are a good upgrade for a little extra flow. It all passes through the fuel pressure regulator and returns to the tank anyway. Good luck with it.
I also have a tbi GM, but mine is a k1500 short box with a five speed overdrive. I just put aluminum heads with 64cc chambers, 70cc, and 180 cc runners 2.02 intake valves, fabricated taller valve covers, Wiend intake with tbi adapter, a Comp cam with 50 intake lift, Roller rockers, an ultra thin Felpro gasket raising compression to 9.5:1, Patriot ceramic long tube headers with straight through duel exhaust, in-line fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, K&N Xtreme flow flop top air cleaner, a/c delete pully, injector spacer, and a custom tuned Harris Performance chip. Any questions or suggestions let me know guys, us tbi die hards gotta stick together.
I have the low compression HD TBI engine. I used trick flow heads with 56cc chambers. It's the smallest chambers I could find. Stock TBI heads have 64cc chambers. It bumped compression to 9.2:1. I'm running a carb right now but soon I'm converting back to TBI. I got Holley Sniper EFI. It's 4 barrel TBI so I can support more power and not have to worry about burning a chip every month when i decide to change something on my configuration. Install video coming soon. What size cam did you say you have? Also, how much power are you making?
@@Ron-Swanson the heads alone would probably be worth 40hp with the tiny stock cam. The cam alone would probably be 40hp with the stock heads. I figure the total combination doubled the power. With the headers and other mods already installed, I think I picked up about 180 flywheel hp from the heads and roller cam. Total, I'm thinking a tad over 400hp. The heads flow a little better than vortecs and can support decent power. The cam is just big enough to take advantage of the better heads but also keep decent low end torque for my 3/4 ton pickup. It's a comp cams xfi252. 252/264 .550"/.546" I've got a full timelapse install video series of the head and cam swap. I'd like to see your setup. I wish mine had a manual trans! It would be a lot cheaper! I've got a turbo 400. Non-lockup torque converter on a non-overdrive trans. I see pretty high cruising rpms. The stock trans shifted at 4,000! I've already shifted to 3rd gear at WOT by the time I hit 60mph. Low gears. When I shift manually, you can really feel the power past 4,000. There's an extra 100hp betwen 4,000 and 5,500!
i should have looked more closely at how they were aligned when i pulled them out. it was a long time ago. 2005ish. thanks for pointing it out. i have been running aftermarket efi for a few years in this truck now. it works well. much better than the factory tbi stuff. (even if the injectors are installed correctly)
Like your videos I have a K1500 from 1991 I drive daily thinking of headers in the future I put dual exhaust and a cold air intake it made a little diffrence thank you for doing a video on this 👍
I liked this manifold. Especially if you can get a deal on a lightly used one. I also really like the headers that I'm running. I'm running single exhaust but there's no denying these trucks sound pretty good with duals. On mine, I want everything flowing through one pipe so I get better scavenging for a little better efficiency. I'm really not sure how much a cold air intake will do on these trucks. The factory air cleaner has a cold air inlet from the fender area. At stock power levels, that's probably as much cold air as you need. In this video, I used a k&n style air filter in the stock air cleaner. I later swapped to a 360⁰ open 14" air cleaner with a 3" tall k&n. It worked well too. Now I'm working on a 10" long cone filter with a 4"ID feeding my supercharger.
i will let you no how the engine turn out and i got that ac delco ep381 fuel pump..and im gonna have my guy to tune my chip and im gonna change and up grade my pressure regulator spring in my tbi...
Sounds like a plan. The vortec pumps should be able to handle plenty of flow. The stock tbi pump is literally the same for every tbi motor...from the 1bbl 3 cylinder 1.0L geo metro to the 7.4l 454 tbi in duallies. A little higher pressure will help you get a better spray pattern from your injectors.
Just stumbled onto the vid, I’m sure you’re far from this now but I wanted to comment on that tranny shift. It made me cringe at each 1-2. My fresh rebuild started doing that at WOT around 4K miles. Freaked me out & I ordered a corvette servo. Turns out, mine was loose as crap, I could shake it & it wobbled. It’s nice & firm now, barks the tires. Just curious how long it lasted that way? My 95 did it 4 or 5 times & I was sure my band was about to go but it’s a long bed full cab 4x4 with 35’s & 4.10 so there’s more there to burn it up with. Yeah I know it needs an 80 but it was a free truck, maybe later ;) I love the sniper on my 302, it really lit up that old 70’s motor. I’m glad you’re having a good experience with one. Mine fires up on the first couple cranks in 100 or -10 degrees, never need to sit & pump it or adjust mixtures like the tires carb days. I soldered a usb connector onto my screen cable & mounted a female in the dash so I could unplug it & plug in my Holley programming cable that I did the same to. Makes that aspect very respectable & easy to deal with. The truck also runs fine if I forget to plug in the screen fyi. Occasionally I’ll have have a loose O2 pin in their connector causing it to freak out & go to 10.0 but I’ll wiggle it & it’s fine for a couple months. Some folks might never get it but keep doing you man, at least while we are free to do it lol.
I lost 2nd gear about 10 months later. Probably 5k miles. That was the th400. It would shift from 1st straight to 3rd. I later installed a 4L80E. With 4.10s and stock height tires, I needed overdrive and a lockup converter for highway driving. I had a converter custom built for the truck. I need to go back to the guy because I can footbrake it to 4000rpm.
VirtualSuperiority VS. I grabbed plenty of weeds and sticks from an old bird's nest in the past. I didn't realize it was quite that bad until after the tbi had come off. Hindsight is 20/20. Lol
I can’t believe you didn’t clean all that dirt and crap off the engine before you opened it up. Also, you placed your valve cover with the nice “reusable” gasket down on the dirty concrete - was it still reusable? Your entire work environment is s pig sty.
jeff lindsey it's a labor of love, jeff. It keeps me busy (as if im not busy enough!) I know ill have to pull the intake, roller rockers and headers off for a head swap, but the pair I've got my eyes on will be worth it. I'll do the head and cam swap at the same time so no back to back 0-60 comparisons on individual parts. Lol. Stay tuned!
First off, sorry that I missed your comment. I'm usually pretty good about answering comments quickly and thoroughly. While I'm a huge fan of Edelbrock, I went a different route. I wanted to go roller and a little more aggressive than what the Edelbrock cam is. And with the roller cam, I had to upgrade my heads. I did a 3 part video series on it. I chose trick flow super 23 175cc heads. They have a spring package good for .600" lift. They flow 245/192@.600". The Edelbrock heads only flow 232/175 and cost about $200 more per head. The cam I went with is an upgrade from the Edelbrock performer plus tbi cam. Their cam is a flat tappet with 244/264 advertised. 194/214@.050" and .398"/.442" lift with a 112 lsa. Mine is a comp xfi252hr. Its hydraulic roller amd has more aggressive lobes to give more area under the curve. It's 252/264 advertised. 202/212@.050" and .550"/.546" lift. It has a wider 113 lsa. Wider lobe separation angles are better for fuel injection because it allows for a nice, stable vacuum signal at idle. It doesn't jump around a whole lot. My cam cost $77 more than the Edelbrock cam but I think it was worth every penny. Along with the heads and cam, I decided that my target hp was above what a TBI could provide, so I installed a 2604 intake manifold. 2604 is an Edelbrock performer air-gap for 87-95 heads. Along with that, I installed a Holley 650 with vacuum secondaries. That over doubled the factory horsepower. Google the dyno graph from Edelbrock's tbi power package. It bumps about 25 ft/lbs through the whole curve and drops off a little slower. That's with a cam, heads, intake, headers, and a chip. That's a lot of money for 275 ft/lbs. According to comp cams, with the cam and heads, I'm looking at 406hp@5500 and 463ft/lbs@3000. It had killer torque and incredible throttle response because of the small intake runners and high port velocity. Now I've got the blower.. that bumps it to a whole different level. It's not completely done yet, and I want to make sure my tune is dead-on before pushing it too hard, but so far, she's nasty. With a small intercooler, I think I'm looking at 655hp@6000 and 625ft/lbs@4500.
@ Eric, I have a 1995 2wd step side truck like yours & I some how ran into a little touch of luck a couple years ago & got a Blueprint Engines, carbureted 383 stroker with aluminum heads & it blew my mind when I got just as good of fuel economy as I did with the stock 305 T.B.I.! When I really push into it I do think it drinks a little more than the 305 but not bad at all to have over doubled the horse power. Cold starts are a bit more involved with the carb obviously, but definitely worth it for all the gains I got like no more computer problems, no more injector problems or replacements, & no more getting stomped at the red light by a grandma in a minivan🤣 & yes that actually happened & that’s also the straw the broke the camels back & why I got the stroker engine, not to mention towing or hauling anything is a breeze now! I watched your header vid & you have the exact same headers as me & they fit nicely, but I am gonna put 3” exhaust from the headers to the back of the cab then into two flow master series 10 mufflers with turn downs on the ends & leave it with no exhaust pipe going on over the rear end & no tips or whatever coming out the back, it’s gonna end at the mufflers rite where the cab & bed meet, true duel exhaust all the way no Y-pipe, I may put an H-pipe or possibly an X-pipe in, not sure yet if I’ll do either one. Anyways, if you do end up putting a cam in your truck, a couple tips I can tell ya from experience with your exact setup is if you plan to put a cam in that’s bigger than a factory replacement towing package type of cam you’ll probably have to get someone to reprogram your computer to compensate for the bigger cam or it won’t idle it will constantly stall or try to stall & if the cam you want to use has more than 500 lift, be absolutely SURE to get threaded rocker arm studs because the higher lift of the cam WILL pull the factory pressed in rocker arm studs up & out & cause you problems. Roller cams for the old school SBC are almost always over 500 lift, not all of em are but most are. Please just be aware of this & save yourself the time, trouble, & money of finding this out the hard way! I’m sure you probably already knew this stuff anyway but here it is just the same & hopefully the info will help someone somewhere. God bless you all & I wish nothing but the best for all of us!✌🏻
Thanks man. I did install a roller cam and trick flow heads about 6 months after I installed this manifold. Initially, I went carburetor but now I'm running hilley sniper efi. This winter I installed a vortech centrifugal supercharger. In March, I installed a 4L80E transmission to replace the turbo 400. She's and entirely different animal than when I made this video! I like how I can tune the engine with my laptop and my transmission with my phone.
Fuel injection is wayyy better there's not a carb in the world that compares to fuel injection in a street vehicle and the reason most people do carb is because they get overwhelmed thinking about how to tune throttle body and it's very very simple
good deal on the holley computer. i did all the bolt on mods to a tbi. EVERYTHING then yanked it for a 650 and a hei. engine really woke up. then went to a built 355 and a holley commander 950 efi. ( before the self tuning setups ) ran it with a laptop. then built a 12 grand 406 alum headed smallblock roller.. this was back in 2000 so 12 grand bought alot more than today. this was in a 3150 pound 91 camaro. maaaan was it fun. finalized it with a 150 shot on the 406. that was backed by a tci built 700r4. tranny was screaming at me in 3rd gear. but it never broke
I wanted Soooo badly to go with Holly EFI but I ended up having to go with Holly carb because no matter how I tried to work things out, I just couldn’t find a way to afford the EFI. It was gonna put me out a minimum of an extra grand & I just didn’t have the cash.
It's a reusable thermostat gasket. Mr gasket brand. Silicone seal around the perimeter of an aluminum block. That way I can pull the thermostat housing whenever I want and not need to worry about having a paper gasket or rtv. 87-95 truck v8s were flat tappet cams. The blocks were roller block castings. Most had the 3 bosses drilled and tapped for the spider but not all.
@EricErnst That thermostat doesn't use the flat type thermostat gasket. It uses a o ring type. And you only have roller rockers. If you had roller lifters that spider better be on those factory drilled out bosses
@@FredColberg-jk5yp what the hell are you talking about? Roller rockers can be run with a flat tappet cam. The motor wouldn't last 10 minutes with roller lifters and no spider.
@EricErnst you're running around in circles. Yes you can use roller rockers without a spider but you cannot run roller lifters without one! Period. I realize that you have flat tappets in there now with roller rockers. Way you have it it doesn't need the spider. As for thermostat gasket those manifolds are machined for the newer style gasket the runs around the outer lip of thermo and sits in the machine area in which it sits.
@@FredColberg-jk5yp I'm not running roller lifters. Stock 87-95 truck cam is flat tappet. I later installed a roller cam, but this one is a stock flat tappet cam with flat tappet lifters. You're the one running in circles.
LT1s were great engines. The cylinder heads were revolutionary. With that being said, the computer tuning may be a little tricky.. and this intake won't fit the LT1 heads. To get the tbi to fit, you'll need a carbureted lt1 intake and a carb-to-TBI adapter. Chevrolet performance makes a manifold part number 24502592 . I got my carb to tbi adapter from Holley. The Holley part number is 17-45. You can probably find a different adapter if you look hard enough. Just search for carburetor to tbi adapter plate. Physically bolting the tbi to your lt1 is one thing, getting the computer to work is another. I'm not sure how the tuning works on the optispark distributor but you'd need to get a custom chip programmed with the correct pigtails for the optispark and get the fuel tuned for the tbi. To make it work, you'll need some bigger injectors to feed the badass LT1 engine.. and the tuning that goes with it. If it were me, I'd try to keep the wiring harness and computer from the LT1 and adapt it to a truck, rather than retrofit the tbi system. If you don't have a computer or wiring harness, maybe you can find one cheap on Ebay or craigslist. The TBI system isn't the greatest at accepting performance upgrades. If I were you, I'd try to keep the LT1's fuel and intake system. It is ready for 70-95hp more than your tbi truck engine.. depending on how much power your truck made. Mine was a measly 190 hp on the low compression HD engine but others came with up to 215hp. Good luck with your swap. I'd like to see where it goes. Keep me posted, if you don't mind.
1976 bronx check my newer videos... I've installed some aluminum Trick Flow heads with smaller chambers to bump the compression and a Comp Cams camshaft with .550" lift. Im not completely done with the video editing and uploading yet, but i did install a nice roller cam. The cam specs are 252/264 degrees advertised duration and .550"/.549" lift. It's the smallest cam in their Xtreme Fuel Injection line. XFI252. The heads are trick flow super 23 175's. They have 56cc combustion chambers to bump the compression to about 9.25. The lower compression heavy duty engines were absolute turds with 8.5:1 compression. Dished pistons with 4 valve reliefs. The heads have smaller intake runners than stock but flow 80 cfm more. 185cfm v 265cfm. Port velocity baby! That with the small cam should give me killer torque off idle. They make a bigger 195cc head with bigger valves but it would still be a turd with stock compression so i went with the smallest chamber i could find... period. I actually put vortec heads on my '93 Silverado K2500 about 13 years ago (same low compression hd engine). They were a definite performance boost but i sold that engine and have a 5.3L sitting in her waiting for wiring and plumbing. Thanks for watching. 👍
hi i have a 95 1500 i have a set of vortec heads with new rocker arms waiting to go in will be adding the tbi to vortec intake. will these heads be sufficient to handle a lt1 or lt4 hotcam
Luke T the l31 vortec heads are essentially lt1 heads without reverse cooling.. so yes, the heads will flow sufficient air for the hot cam or the lt1 cam. They should work great with the LT1 cam, however, you will need valvesprings and/or machining on the spring seats to handle the .525/.525 valve lift of the hot cam. I think the stock vortec heads can handle about .480 lift. If you got them with rockerd as a package deal, check max lift with the people that sold you the heads. I think it's a valve retainer clearance issue and not just a spring coil bind issue.
Luke T I'd contact a tbi chip company on the internet to burn a new chip. The chip is located behind the glove box. At minimum, I'd say you need a fuel pump and bigger injectors and a chip. The stock injectors can't handle that kind of power and will run lean in the upper rpm range. I got some stock big block injectors to replace the stock injectors in my 1993 silverado when i put vortec heads on it. I went with www.turbocity.com but another guy on here has talked to harris performance. Aside from the engine, they can also raise your shift rpm if you have an automatic transmission. I raised mine to 5,000 on my 93. Or you could run a carburetor to provide the needed fuel. Tbi's aren't the best at accepting performance mods. Modern fuel injection has one injector per cylinder. This setup has 2 total. It's hard for them to work in such a wide range of fuel requirements. At idle with the big block injectors, you may have fuel mixture issues because the duty cycle is so low and at wide open throttle at the upper range, they will be running pretty much wide open to provide enough fuel. That's not to say people haven't had great results with tuning them, you just have to do your homework. I currently have this truck converted to carburetor until i can get tuning issues figured out on some sort of fuel injection. I installed new trick flow heads and a bigger roller cam).
I don't have a TV cable. I have a turbo 400 trans. It uses a vacuum modulator instead of a TV cable. The throttle cable bracket bolts up perfectly in the stock location so I'm sure yours will bolt up without any modifications. All of the other fittings and ports line up perfectly with the stock tbi manifold.
@@JuanSilva-sb6ut can you put a small spacer under the throttle bracket? It bolts in on the 2 rearward intake bolts plus an extra stabilizer bolt, right? Since converting to a carbureted intake, I modified mine now so my bracket is different from stock.
Hey man, I'm just working my ass off. You know how it goes. I've been working about 3 hours away from home so I have to stay in a hotel during the week.
I like old school stuff. This was actually my uncle's truck. He died in 2005 and I bought the truck from my aunt in 2013. It had been sitting in her garage for 8 years. 400hp out of the box is nice but 425hp after a few grand worth of engine work is also nice. Lol. I'm sure your hemi is a lot more tame at idle and gets better gas mileage than mine but I know what you mean. Those 8 speed transmissions are nice. I wouldn't mind having overdrive. I'm finishing my swap to a 4L80E transmission. ~4000 rpm cruising speeds on the freeway get old in a hurry! Have fun with your new truck!
@bad Good this truck is a k2500. It has a 4 bolt main block, a turbo 400 trans, and a 9.25" front diff and 14 bolt rear. This was the extent of my mods before ditching the factory tbi. Now I'm running Holley sniper tbi. It's a 950cfm 4bbl throttle body with 4 100lb/hr injectors. Factory 2 barrel tbi? It doesn't like engine upgrades. My new tbi? It's gonna see a centrifugal supercharger to test the 650hp limit of the injectors. I have 2 5.3L's and 4L60E's laying around waiting for a swap but I like this truck and the path that I'm taking. One of the 5.3s is nestled in the engine bay of my 1993 k2500 pickup. It's got a healthy crane cam that should be good for 440hp. Both trucks have the heavy axles and 4.10 gears. The turbo 400 needs an upgrade to a 4L80E. Overdrive and a lockup converter will be a welcome addition to this truck. The current iteration of this truck is sporting trick flow heads and a comp roller cam with an Edelbrock performer air-gap intake and the aforementioned sniper TBI. It runs great, has killer off-idle torque and I have the rev limiter set to 5,800. I have tuned the efi with my laptop. I have a Holley hyperspark distributor and coil with the hyperspark CD ignition system so I can tune the timing curve on my laptop and have killer spark energy. The truck burns rubber like mad, and is a blast to drive. I could put a 5.3 or 6.0 or 6.2 in it, but I already have a partially ls-swapped k2500. I'm doing it differently this time around. Thanks for watching and commenting. I'll get around to finishing the wiring and plumbing on my 1993 k2500 one of these days.
@bad Good I have a granatelli motorsports 340lph fuel pump. Should support 997hp naturally aspirated. I did a video on the install. I've done videos on the heads and cam and holley sniper tbi install as well. The sniper efi is good to 650hp. I also have a 14"x3" round K&N filter in a 360 degree air cleaner. My biggest restriction right now is my single 3" catless open exhaust. 3" pipe should flow enough for 370-380hp in a zero loss system. I've got a video on how I built my exhaust. As a matter of fact, just tonight, I ordered a single 4" exhaust system for a 6.5L turbodiesel from summit racing. That will support around 650hp. That and I plan make my own 3" into 4" y-pipe from some 3" I've got laying around.. Supporting mods for the centrifugal supercharger. I could buy a y pipe but I think I'm going to try to build my own. The y-pipes on summit racing look inefficient for $60 or expensive and constricted for $110. I don't want either bank to ever have less than 2 7/8" and merge them smoothly into a 4" pipe. I want to keep velocity high but not enough to hinder the flow. Yes. I do have thousands of dollars in mods and upgrades wrapped up in the engine of this truck. I'd have to add it all up, but it's a lot. Definitely over $5k but probably under $10k. I know that I could have finished my 5.3 swap with the time and money that I've invested in this old farm truck. I'm perfectly happy with the path I've chosen. It's a fun daily driver and kind of a tribute to my uncle. I built my 93 like 15 years ago. I tried to upgrade the engine and keep the stock 2bbl tbi. Never again. If you go beyond simple bolt-ons, you need to either swap to a carb or go aftermarket fuel injection. I had a cam and vortec heads with some hooker competition headers and an Edelbrock rpm air-gap vortec intake manifold and a Holley tbi to square bore adapter plate. I used big block injectors and had an injector pod spacer and a custom chip. In that truck, I went with true dual exhaust. I was very unhappy with that build. The custom chip was absolute shit. It got shit for mileage and puked black smoke when you got on it. Now I'm trying to keep the stock look from the outside. You can definitely tell it's not stock when you hear it, but if you see it parked, it looks like an old beat up farm truck. With the modern fuel injection, it fires right up quickly and settles into a nice idle at 900rpms. I have had it idling as low as 400 but I want the better throttle response of a slightly higher idle. I encourage you to check out some of the other videos on my truck. Maybe I'll finish the ls swap someday and you can be happy for me. I don't put ads on my videos so you don't even have to worry about skipping annoying ads. I just do this as a hobby to help guys with their car/truck issues. Or show guys how to upgrade their trucks. I've gone beyond what most are willing to do, but one guy copied my setup and sent me some datalogs and I tuned his sniper efi for him. He wanted to pay me but I just want to help people keep these great trucks on road. For reference, what year is your truck?
I live in a rural area. No dyno shops near me. I got the power numbers from comp cams' camquest software. You can download it for free. Put in your engine size, compression ratio, cylinder head flow rates and valve sizes, intake manifold style, induction type and cfm, exhaust system style, and optional power adder. Then select the cam and it will show you a dyno graph. That is power at the crankshaft, not the wheels. It shows 406hp @ 5500 and 463 lb/ft @ 3500. I'm not trying to hide anything on my truck. If I had a dyno sheet, I'd post it. The truck roasts the tires from idle and pulls hard to my limiter at 5800. Every part was selected to work together. I don't have any mismatched components (save for the exhaust, which I originally designed before the heads and cam swap so it was perfectly adequate for a stock/bolt-on engine. I'm even still using the blue roller rocker arms.
on your front end make sure you got a good steering gear box and make sure the adjustment is all the way adjust tight on it ..some time from thhe factory they dont be..i have had that problem before...and redhead has good gear boxes
I've never used a stiffer spring to adjust the fuel pressure higher on the stock tbi's. I've used 81lb/hr big block injectors at the stock pressure. I'd definitely try to get a better screw to tighten it. If it's adjustable and you can't access it to adjust it, it doesn't matter much. Lol. I'd try to find the thread pitch and get another hex head bolt in the correct length or weld a nut as you suggested. You still have to remove the thing to modify it.. but hopefully you can reach it without too much trouble. Hopefully the 18psi spring will work. Can you shim the spring any? That should make it a little stiffer. Or try to stretch the spring a little to make it stiffer. I've never had much luck with custom tbi chips. It should operate in closed loop at idle.. so the fueling should run off of the O2 sensor once it's warm enough to provide feedback. The injectors should be able to adjust and increase the duty cycle to compensate for the lower flow from low fuel pressure at idle/cruise. It's under wide open throttle that you'll see how far off the chip is because it goes to open loop above 75-80% throttle. If you think you can modify the adjustability, I'd definitely try it. Its been a while.. Remind me, how big is your cam? What kind of power are you hoping to make with this latest setup? Hopefully it's a simple chip issue and you can get it figured out easily. I'm really not sure why your fuel pressure won't go any higher. Hopefully it's not an ailing pump/clogged filter issue. I've heard a 96-98 vortec 55gph pump is a good upgrade over the stock 30gph pumps. Good luck with it and let me know what you find out. Sorry I'm not much help.
I had trouble hooking up. I kept lighting up the rear tires when doing my 0-60. I feel like it was a great manifold. It might be a little pricey, but if you can find a used one in good shape for cheap, I'd pick it up. It was also bolted on an engine that was rated at 190hp from the factory and it was using the stock computer chip. On top of the performance gains, it also looks better than 99% of the 25+ year old factory intake manifolds. I don't often do things for looks, but I feel like it did help a lot for just being an intake manifold. I ran this intake manifold for about 6 months before upgrading the cam and cylinder heads. The stock tbi was the biggest restriction in the system so I went with a 4bbl carburetor and an Edelbrock 2604 performer air gap intake manifold. Engine simulations estimated that I over doubled the horsepower. Peak power went from 4000rpm to 5500rpm and peak torque went from 2400rpm to 3000rpm. It has a nice broad torque band. It's the smallest cam in comp's xfi line. Xfi252hr. The heads are Trick Flow super 23 aluminum. With the right cam, the heads can support over 500hp. It's a 3/4 ton truck so I chose a cam that favors low end torque instead of top end power. Comp's camquest simulation software estimated 406hp@5500 and 463ft@3000. Stock on this engine was 190hp@4000 and 300ft-lbs@2400. Since then, I've stepped up to holley sniper tbi fuel injection and have full control of the fuel and spark timing. I also slapped on a vortec supercharger in January and a 4L80E transmission in March. The supercharger made a HUGE difference on top of an already potent truck. That truck is so rowdy now. It is an absolute monster. I wouldn't throw on a supercharger unless i had total control of the fuel and timing first. I can monitor everything and make sure it's not leaning out and pull enough timing to keep the knock sensor nice and quiet. The best quality of life improvement was the transmission. Overdrive and a lockup torque converter are a great alternative to passing cars on the freeway at 4000rpms and cruising at 3500rpms. I can go 42% faster at the same rpm in overdrive with the torque converter clutch locked. 2400 used to be 50. Now I'm running 71mph. 42% is a big drop. I always felt really bad passing people with 4" open exhaust blasting right at their driver's door.
yeah i have a 5.7 TIB IN MY 1990 K5 BLAZER AND IM STARTING TO SMOKE BURNING ALITTLE OIL I TAKEN THE PLUGS OUT ALL THEM LOOK PRETTY GOOD EXCEPT #8 IT IS COVER UP WITH ALOT OF OIL I THEN TOOK A COMPRESS TEST AND ALL CYLINDERS READ ABOUT 150 AND #8 THE PLUG THAT WAS OIL UP IS READING 180 I WERE THINKING THATS BECAUSE ITS ALOT OF OIL BUILD ON TOP OF THAT PISTON SO I MIGHT GET BY JUST DOING THE HEADS ..WHAT DO YOU THINK..
It may be as simple as a valve seal on number 8. That could explain your smoke too. 180psi sounds pretty good to me so I wouldn't think it was a ring seal issue. Maybe try pulling the plugs and squirt a little oil into the cylinder and recheck the compression in all of the other cylinders. If 8 is dripping oil in the cylinder, maybe its compression isn't any different than the other cylinders. Hopefully refreshing the heads will fix the issue. If the valve seals look fine, you may want to take a look at the cylinder walls to make sure they aren't scuffed. While you have the heads off, you may want to do a quick upgrade if it's in the budget. Heads, cam, and carb will turn your old 200hp beater into a monster. I picked some trick flow heads, but a pair of iron vortec heads will flow a lot better than stock swirl ports and should be cheaper than aftermarket. The compression ratio will remain the same with the vortec's 64cc chambers. You'll need a different intake manifold but your exhaust manifolds or headers will work fine. I also picked a mild roller cam. You've got a roller block, why not take advantage of it? The wimpy flat tappet cam matches the low-flowing heads perfectly. If you change one, changing the other will net you big potential gains. I had other supporting mods and over doubled the horsepower with heads and a cam. The stock tbi doesn't respond well to power upgrades, so I initially swapped in a carburetor. Since November 2018, I've been running holley sniper fuel injection. It's incredible. You can tune the engine with a damn laptop! Or you could even do most things with the included touchscreen. It self-tunes the fuel mixture based on the target air:fuel ratio that you call for. It constantly reads off of a wideband O2 sensor. It's leaps and bounds better than the stock tbi, and bolts in place of a regular 4 barrel carburetor. Since January 2020, I've been running a centrifugal supercharger on top of that. Holy cow. I think that made a bigger difference than the heads and cam. Now I'm out of fuel injector so I have to limit my rpms. She'll REALLY get up and go now. I've gotten a tripod, but my video quality hasn't really improved much. I've had 2 kids and work long hours in a road construction company so I don't have much time to film or plan videos out very well. One take and she's done. If I don't get the shot in the first try, oh well. I'm mostly happy to just get time to wrench on my old junk, let alone film it and edit a video and upload it. Good luck with your old blazer. Hopefully it's just a simple valve seal. Let me know what it turns out to be.
trans lost 2nd gear after i upgraded the cam and heads and converted it to carb. i'm currently running a 4l80E and custom multi-disc converter. it wasnt a hard swap from a turbo 400.
Yes. The end of the video shows some 0-60 pulls. For a stock or mild bolt-on tbi engine, this intake is a great upgrade. I got mine on Ebay for $250. With headers, free flowing exhaust, roller rockers and a free flowing air filter, this is right on the verge of needing a chip upgrade. I later installed a rich-lean indicator gauge. It showed a little lean at wide open throttle in the upper rpm range. Nothing dangerous, just a little leaner than ideal. You could do some TBI mods to increase fuel pressure, but then idle and part throttle performance would probably be overly rich. If you decide to swap heads and cam, the stock tbi and therefore, this intake probably isn't for you. I had it installed as a daily driver for over 6 months. Throttle response was great and fuel economy was good. Later, I swapped heads and installed a roller cam and a carburetor.i eventually went with holley sniper efi.
@@EricErnst yea i saw that on my factory stock 305 i put the holley pro-jection manifold but my car would tare up my tires alot more then what i heard in the vid so i guess ill stick with my holley one
@@joshmeselfhighup1603 you also have to realize that a k2500 and your car are very different machines. My truck is 45 cubes bigger. It has 4.10 rear gear. I've got more weight. But my torque converter is super tight and my transmission has a taller 1st gear ratio than your car. Your conditions are probably different too.. on my 0-60 tests I decided to do them all thr samem no brake torquing. Just slow to a stop. Let off the braid and quickly floor the accelerator. The truck will do great burnouts. I have a TBI Camaro with a 305. It may get this manifold someday.
Nice. How much would you want for a 4L80E? And an NP241C transfer case. I have a 4L80E with about 10k miles on a rebuild, but it's been sitting and could stand to be freshened up. I've got a +500rpm stall, lock up converter from TCI along with that trans. I used it in my old pickup long ago. I ordered a gm transmission controller from Fitech. For the trans, I'm not worried about a 3x3 shift point table. Lol. And who wouldn't mind having another LS laying around just waiting to go into a project.. like a 3rd gen Camaro or a mud truck s10. I've already got a 5.3 between the wheelwells of my 1993 Silverado. I have a 5.3 with a 4l60e sitting waiting to go into something when i get the time and desire.
i will let you no what he found on my engine in the next couple days i just gave it to him the other day..when i pulled it out i can see see in the intake bore of the head its full of oil and looks like the value is burned..
This is an exact oem replacement. All of the brackets will bolt up in their stock location. I think it is 1/4" taller. It is set up for the 87-95 tbi bolt pattern. Edelbrock engineers its stuff very well and is super high quality and it fits great. I have since upgraded to a set of trick flow heads with the 87-95 bolt pattern so I could potentially use this manifold. I went another route and used a 2604 Edelbrock performer air-gap for a carburetor. I used a 650cfm holley carburetor for about a year and then upgraded to sniper efi. I chose to go against the stock tbi unit because I'd had a bad experience in the past with a custom mail-order chip. If you keep the stock chip, I wouldn't recommend going any further than I did in this video. If you change the cam or heads, the stock chip won't be able to keep up. I did headers, exhaust, 1.6 roller rockers, Edelbrock tbi intake manifold, and a high flow air filter in the stock air cleaner, added electric fans (nothing to do with the tune because it doesn't make power, just reduces parasitic losses) and 6⁰ of initial timing advance (stock is 0⁰). Wide open throttle would go full lean on a narrow band air:fuel ratio gauge. Cruising was still OK, but wide open could have made more power with more fuel. One thing I wish I would have tested is an msd ignition system. This combination didn't really make enough power to stress the stock ignition system but I would have liked to see if a 6AL box and blaster coil made a difference. With all of the mods, my 0-60 dropped by over a second I my 5800lb truck. You can see at the end that I had trouble hooking up by just romping the throttle from a stop. This combination was very responsive and got great gas mileage compared to stock. I saw as high as 13.5mpg... which was much better than my first tank in the truck. 8.4mpg. Once I did a tune-up, I would hover around 10mpg but it did steadily improve as I added parts. Ultimately, you're only as good as your biggest bottleneck. The heads and cam and tbi are all matched very well. They all limit flow and horsepower. If you upgrade one, the others will still be holding you back. That's not to say that gm didn't do their homework. My truck was geared to drive 2400rpms at 55mph... the speed limit on 2 lane highways and rural roads in 1990. The engine is rated at peak torque of 300lb/ft@2400rpms. If I was towing at 55mph, I'd be cruising at my engine's most efficient range. The 91 model year debuted the 4L80E transmission... with overdrive and the converter clutch locked, the same rpm is 71mph.. 1mph more than the speed limit on the interstate. Sorry for going off on a tangent there, but to answer your question, I had zero trouble installing this manifold. Everything bolted up exactly where the oem manifold was. It is a little pricey but you might be able to score a used one fie cheap. I got mine on ebay new in the box but had been sitting for a few years because the guy had decided to go a different route with his project vehicle. I got it for $250 back in 2017, I believe. Look around and you can probably find a deal. One thing to note, be careful with the water outlet on the passenger rear of the intake manifold. They are absolute junk and will disintegrate. They are made of a super shitty pot metal alloy and they wil crumble. They all do it. I just got a barbed fitting, cut the quick connect end off and clamped the heater hose to it. Good luck.. it's a great manifold. I loved it when I was running it.
@@timweiner7434 I don't notice a difference between octane. On my new setup, I have to run 93. I've got an overdrive transmission so it should be higher... but it's hard not to dip into the throttle and really suck fuel. I think I got under 5mpg on my first supercharged tank of gas. My final tbi setup was pretty responsive for what it was. I had instant torque .. even if it fell off as the revs climbed. It is always fun to have the ability to roast the tires from a stop without brake torquing.
@@EricErnst do you have the part number for the sensor you used? Or know where to get the same one you got .. mine won’t fit either.. the hole is kinda big
Planning to drop the elderbrock top end kit in a 93 chevy suburban k2500 454 7.4 v8. Was wondering if I have to pull the engine to put in the cam? Also is it worth it?
You're talking about the whole top end kit? Heads, cam, intake, headers and chip? For how much money? I'd say that you can definitely make more power for cheaper. The tbi system has inherent problems. I almost think that any decent power would be better off going carbureted. The 350 small block tbi is barely big enough for the 190hp that they are rated for. At 85% duty cycle, the injectors can supply 207hp worth of gasoline. A an unmodified big block tbi can supply 275hp worth of gas. A carburetor can support a lot more power. I don't have much experience with 454 tbi motors, but I do have a lot of experience with 350 and 305 tbi motors. I know that I'll never run big block injectors in a small block 350 again. The resolution is not low enough at idle and light cruise. You end up dumping fuel into the cylinders. Poor economy and still only 275hp worth of gasoline isn't worth the idle issues. I'm working on building a 325ish hp engine with a modified tbi unit and aftermarket modified ecm. I can tune the stock tbi with my laptop. I'll be running 29psi of fuel pressure at wide open throttle. Stock is anywhere between 11-15, depending on where you look. If you got the heads and cam and intake for dirt cheap, go ahead and slap them on. Be sure to get the matching chip or your tune will not be correct this combination was dead lean on a stock chip. Headers, exhaust, tbi intake manifold and 1.6 rockers and finally, a high flow air filter. I didn't have a rich:lean gauge for a narrow band O2 sensor hooked up when I installed this manifold, but I did sometime in the following months. The truck seemed to run good. But it was very lean was. It got 30% better gas mileage than when I got it... but it was dangerously lean. My gas mileage with a carb amd aftermarket heads and a mild roller cam marched the best mileage I ever got with tbi. And it had double the horsepower. Tbi can be done right.. but it costs a lot more than a comparable amount of power from a carburetor. I think it will run on a stock chip. It will not run as well as it could, but it will be good enough to drive around. The factory rated the 454 tbi at 230hp@3600rpms. The stock heads are capable of 475hp. Over 500hp with some porting. Big blocks are easy to make big power. 230hp is nothing. Barely 1/2 hp per cube. I don't think that new heads are necessary for a tbi build. But if you have them, and you're already doing a cam and intake swap and you probably need to look at the head gaskets anyway, it isn't a waste. I didn't remove the engine to do the cam swap on my 350. I did have to pull the radiator and ac condenser. You'll probably want to pull the rad anyway for better access to the front accessories. Good luck with your build. Sorry that this response was all over the place. I've started and stopped several times throughout the evening. It's been a continuous reply over the last 2 or 3 hours. Lol. If you have any other questions or concerns, feel free to reply to this comment. I'll do my best to answer any questions about your swap.
@@EricErnst copy, I am also new to big blocks, I don't have the parts yet but I did also fined a speed master that is $2000.00 with out the cam, the elderbrock set is $3500.00 with the cam. I am sitting at 160 hp and about 250 tr. Shes a rolling turd to the point of getting passed in the slow lane by semis doing 55mph. Looking to gain speed & tq. I dont want to boost it but to be able to pull a good size trailer
@@roberttempest7543 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rwUDpcVDlzY.html I really enjoy Richard Holdener's channel. He was a magazine guy for years and years. He's spent a lot of time on dynos. I think that the 256h cam with a carburetor and intake manifold and headers would be a great 50hp gain over stock. You'll also need an hei distributor. The only real issue is your transmission. Do you have a 4L80E automatic or a 5 speed? If you have the automatic, you might need to do some oddball stuff to keep the factory computer controlling the transmission. Your transmission will retain its stock shift points. If you choose to upgrade to an aftermarket transmission controller, you can go completely custom with your shift points and torque converter lockup. My engine made peak power at a little higher rpm so I chose to use an aftermarket controller a when I upgraded to my 4L80E from a th400 in my truck after I had already supercharged it. I used the transmission from my 1993 k2500's 4L80E. If you want to go with an aftermarket controller, you'll need an updated internal wiring harness from a newer year transmission. The harness will plug in to all of the sane places internally, it just has an updated main harness connector that will work with the newer connectors. If you wanted to keep the stock ecm controlling your trans, you'll need to keep a few of the factory sensors on the engine. Engine coolant temp sensor. Tachometer signal. And tps should be the only things that affect shifting. But the map sensor might affect it. I've never personally controlled a carbureted engine with a tbi computer. If you use a holley carburetor, they make a tps sensor that attaches to the choke linkage. You could wire up the 3 wires from it to the stock computer. You could look at a few forums to see exactly what sensors you need to keep. On my 1992 c1500 with a 700r4, the coolant temp sensor is required for the torque converter clutch. If you're driving on the highway, you'll definitely want the tcc. I'm not entirely sure if shift points are based on tps and rpm or if the map sensor is involved too. The aftermarket controller that I used was a tci ez-tcu. I love it. If my efi is hitting the rev limiter at wide open throttle between shifts, I can lower the shift points of my trans by 50rpm from an app on my phone. In just a few seconds. It's a pretty cool system to have.
@@roberttempest7543 you can get by with a mild performance cam.. meaning 381hp with open headers. . On the stock heads. I know it's not a hot rod. It's a truck designed for towing and hauling. The 256h cam should be a great choice for stock heads. Sure, aftermarket heads will have the potential to produce more power.. but you haven't maxxed out the flow potential of the peanut port big block heads until you've hit nearly 500hp. My 350 has a 252 cam. It's similar in duration to the 400hp 6.0L LS2. With a little more lift. Mine is 202⁰/212⁰@.050" with .550"/.546" and it is 204⁰/211⁰@.050" with .524"/.524". My 350 heads flow better than the ls2 heads. The ls2 makes peak power of 400hp@6,000rpms. According to comp cams, my powerband is 1000-5000rpms. You've got a 7.4l motor. That's 30% bigger than my 5.7l. A cam with 4⁰ duration more than mine will not make power at the same rpm. I think the video showed around 4,400rpms for peak hp with stock heads. That will still provide plenty of low end torque for towing. Of course, you could always call 1800 cam help to talk to a cam rep from xomp cams. They'll point you in the right direction. They'll definitely want you bragging about your cam, not bitching about it to your friends. They want the good word-of-mouth advertising. Even if you choose a cam with similar specs to the one that comp suggests.
I've heard of other guys doing that before but I've never put silicone around the water jackets before. No. It didn't leak. This particular intake manifold was on the truck for about 6 or 7 months before I did a head and roller cam swap. The new performer air-gap intake manifold hasn't leaked in about the same amount of time. I just ordered a Holley sniper efi tbi system for it and will be installing that as soon as it comes in! Stay tuned if you want to see a fast(er) truck with some speed parts and eventually a new 4L80e trans so I don't scream at 3500rpms down the highway.
@@EricErnst oh sweet. Good or dodnt leak. I put a new intake on my brothers 68 Grand prix and it keeps leaking around the front water jackets, even after putting silicone. And just put a new intake on my new 350 engine just like yours and hoping it dont leak while I'm breaking in the new cam
@@65impala11 I just use a good gasket and make sure to torque everything down to spec. Good luck with it. What size can did you choose to go with? Mine is a comp xfi252 hr. It's got low duration for great bottom end but pretty aggressive lobes to maximize the short duration. .550"/.546" lift.
Apparently not all 87-95 truck blocks were drilled and tapped for the can retainer and lifter retainer. The bosses are all cast in, but some just aren't drilled and tapped. I have since installed a comp roller cam and trick flow heads. Now, I'm also sporting Holley sniper efi tbi. It's a relatively small cam, xfi252hr. 252/264 advertised. 202/212@.050". .550"/.546". 113 lsa. Heads are trick flow super 23 175cc with 56cc chambers because compression is so low in these HD tbi engines. The small chamber bumped compression to 9.17:1. The heads flow 245/192cfm. It's a big improvement over the stock setup. Comp estimates 406hp@5500 and 463ft/lbs@3000.
I have a 1994 Silverado X-Cab Z71 5.7L (350), it's a Sleeper. Might help some tbi enthusiasts out, so far I think I got every bolt-on on that bad boy, even spins the tires on second gear, which makes me laugh...Yes here were the options: 4:10 posi with sway bars Bell-tech (including rear), shorty headers, stage 2 chip by Jet 29429-S, Edelbrock Performer Intake 3706 w/ Quad to TBI plate, EGR block off plate, 502-9 Holley 670cfm TBI w/ wide mouth spacer and adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Walbro 255LPH fuel pump, 4L60E shift kit stage 2, dual electric fans, single wing open air cleaner (chrome) w/ K&N, Goodmark functional 2 inch cowl hood, Scorpion Roller Rockers "thin" 1.6 3/8 stud half turn, chrome valve covers, MSD high energy spark coil, 3inch single flowmaster exhaust dumps past the cab, cross drilled slotted rotors with ceramic brakes, I also advance the timing to 4 degrees gave it a little kick. Later getting a true dual exhaust...also looking into a 220/220 Comp Cam but later on...also got a AFR gauge and Boost gauge setup incase (tbi whipple)....like I said these trucks are really fun especially seeing that speedo fly and bury the needle...and if I can't get that governor to go past 100, I got a 650 Holley 4BBL carb w/TPS kit on standby, HEI Distributor, fuel pressure reg, Quad to Holley plate, wire diagram to activate the HEI, electric choke, fuel pump and got to cut the fuel lines for hoses to the fuel pressure regulator back off to 5 or 6 psi. But like I said it's a last resort...depends on my brain where do I wanna go with this truck...great job on that intake and keep going on this project 🖒
Willubhave One Yours sounds like a fun truck. You've done plenty of mods so far. This was about 2 months after i got the truck running again after sitting for several years. I recently put on a set of Trick Flow heads and a comp roller cam. I went with a 650 vacuum secondary carb on the current setup with an Edelbrock performer air-gap intake but I'd like to go back to fuel injection at some point. Not the factory TBI, maybe port injection or one of the 4bbl self learning TBI. HEI distributors are ridiculously simple. Literally one wire needs to get power and you've got spark. Another optional wire goes to the tachometer. I tapped into the fuel pump relay to get my ignition wire. It's dependent on an oil pressure switch.. so i still have the safety of shutting down the engine if I lose oil pressure. Instead of continuing to run on the fuel in the bowls for a few oil-starved seconds. It will now cut the spark if i lose oil pressure. Your cam choice seems kinda big for stock heads. Are you looking at going vortec in the future? With trick flow, you can get the 87-95 intake bolt pattern that still fits this manifold. I got the spring package for .600" lift. My cam has .550"/.546" lift. 202/212@ .050, 252/264 @.006". 113 degree lsa for a stable vacuum signal for going back to fuel injection. I haven't installed my shift kit in this truck yet. I got a trans go kit. Last time i went with b&m on my '93 K2500. It has a 4L80e with a tci torque converter. I got the converter when i had vortec heads on the stock 350. Now i have a cammed 5.3L sitting between the wheelwells. Desktop dyno says 440ish hp on that truck. I love talking with fellow truck guys. I love this body style. I may go with some drilled and slotted brakes. I've got some on my s10. How do you like them? I wonder if they make them for the HD trucks? I know the rear brakes are different but I'm not sure on the fronts. I've got a 14 bolt with massive drums in the rear. HD truck are prone to cracking rotors anyway so they might not make them for my application. What headers are you running? I've used hookers in the past and these flowtechs now. Both were pretty good. These have 3" collectors while the hookers had 2.5". Thanks for checking out my video. I'm just a guy trying to keep more of these old trucks on the road.
Eric Ernst you got that truck running good, ya for now it's stock internals, just a lot of bolt ons. The cross drilled rotors were better stopping than factory. Thinking when my brake booster goes out might fit one off a 2003 model with a adapter fitting for the line...was reading on a GMT400 site. The heads are just port and polish factory...but later run vortec heads. Ya I have the factory 4:10 rear axle, it has those massive drums compared to a smaller diff. like 3:73 and lower. Ya, these trucks are so easy to work on, just getting fewer and fewer....I used to have a 92 Camaro Z28 5.7tpi, but was totaled, girl texting rear ended the car at 60mph. That car inspired me to get this truck going, it was the 350 calling...So I might run a carb with that 220 cam, and if the engine is warn out, might just make it a 383 stroker...looking to find a tbi whippel supercharger but they are discontinued for the tbi generation...so will see in the future. Other than that great job and thanks for the reply...and keep these trucks going GMT400 88-98 (99 Classic) Vin K
You say you got a stage 2 chip from Jet, and your truck is a 94. Fuck!!! I didn't want to hear that. I just got a 95 GMC Sierra 1500 extra cab with a 305 engine with over 300k miles. I was going to buy a cheap Chevy vortec 350 crate basic engine with the roller cam, and pull the cam and put a edelbrock performer roller cam for more torque and hp and hopefully use my stock 305 2 barrel tbi. I was hoping I could do that without having to recalibrate anything. I was under the impression that only 96 and newer Chevrolet and GMC trucks have computers in them. I'm old school and rebuilt a few older small block Chevy engines in my younger days. All of this computer settings and retunings confuses the hell outta me. Now I'm going to have to hire someone to get me the right tbi set up and tune it for me. I hate computers.
@@timvalles9154if you're that concerned about it, go with a carb. You'll get comparable mileage to the factory TBI and won't have to worry about leaning out so bad under WOT. I've played the TBI chip game. If you make any modifications after your tune, you'll need a new chip burned. The primitive nature of TBI isnt very accepting of performance upgrades. Either fo everything at once and get a chip for your whole combo or go carbureted. If you go for a whole combo, be in contact with a chip tuner. I've heard good things from Harris Performance. They may have a perfect chip for a particular cam and cylinder head combo. A proven, repeatable combo is better than throwing something together and asking joe blow to burn a chip. My first mail order custom chip put a bad taste in my mouth because it was so shitty and it cost like $400, 15 years ago. It never worked right and blew black smoke like a diesel under acceleration. I got 5-6mpg. It was terrible. Other guys have had great luck with a tunwd chip. Talk to a tuner, have them help you throw together an engine plan, then get the parts and put everything together. Or you can go old school and slap a carb on it and be good to go, no need for injector sizing or fuel pressure modifications. You will need a cheap regulator to get fuel down to 5-7psi for a 4bbl. Good luck with your truck! Let me know what route you decide to go!
I did notice a difference. If you can find a cheap one jump on it. I got mine on ebay for $250. A guy bought it new for a project and never used it. If you're considering taking it a little farther and eventually swapping to vortec heads and a bigger cam, you'll need a different intake manifold anyway. In that case, I wouldn't bother swapping to this manifold. I used it for about 6 months and really liked it.. Until I felt the power from aftermarket heads, a roller cam and carburetor. Now I'm running holley sniper fuel injection and a centrifugal supercharger. Tci mild stall converter and 4L80E swap. That's a whole different animal.
Eric Ernst keeping it original instead of LS swapping it, nice! & for my 350 I really want a mild cam and intake... already have headers.... any suggestions on what size or where I can get the cam from? Thanks
@@herb7181 the stock swirl port tbi heads are about the worst available from gm. They will only support a maximum of 360hp or so with the perfect cam. A bigger cam than you probably want to run... because the cam will be mismatched to the flow of the heads.. and youll have a soft low end from the cam, and a soft top end from the heads. The stock cam is matched pretty well to the stock heads. Try to find a set of vortec heads for a power boost. If your motor is set up for a roller cam, you could run a roller cam with more aggressive lobe lift and get a further power boost. If you want to keep the tbi, talk to a chip guy like Harris performance. I've never dealt with him but I've heard good things. See what they have experience with. If you choose a cam that he doesn't have experience with, you might not get the results you want. I had a custom chip burned from turbocity.com. It was terrible. I got super shitty mileage. I had no power. Talk to a chip guy first and see what he has the best luck with. You'll be happier in the long run too. If you are sticking with tbi, the stock heads are probably fine. It's pretty restrictive and you won't miss out on much power. If you want to replace the heads, a cheap replacement set of vortec heads are a great alternative. If you get a carburetor intake manifold, you can make a lot more power. I went with a set of trick flow super 23 175cc heads with a spring package for .600" lift. The ontake runners are tiny, bit they flow 245cfm. That means great port velocity. The cam is a comp xfi252hr. Advertised 252/264, 202/212@ .050". .550"/.546" lift. 113lsa. It's the smallest of their xtreme fuel injection line. I have a 3/4 ton pickup so I wanted a ton of off-idle torque that can still make power at 5500+. The duration looks small, but it has enough lift to rev higher than a typical cam of that size. Off idle, it will roast the tires.
@@herb7181 comp cams has camquest software that you can plug in your engine and specs and it will recommend different cams for your application and give you dyno graphs based on your engine combination. You can also live chat with them. They wouldn't steer you wrong... if the cam isn't right, you'll tell all of your friends to stay away from comp cams, so it's in their best interest to get you the perfect fit.
@@herb7181 I've got a 1993 k2500 silverado that's been mid-ls swap for like 8 years. I like the ls, but I wanted to do a 350 better than last time with vortec heads and a custom chip with big block injectors in the stock tbi. This current build has evolved much further than my previous k2500. I had to lower my rev limiter because I was out of fuel injector and leaning out on the top end. In a naturally aspirated engine, 400lb/hr worth of injector would be good for around 800hp. I know boost increases bsfc a bit, but I'm still estimating over 600hp with 8psi of boost.
I've heard the 670 is a nightmare to tune. Just what I've heard. I have no personal experience with them. I'm running 4bbl 800cfm tbi now. Check out some of my newer videos. They are rushed and aren't edited that great, but it will catch you up on some of the newer stuff I've done to this truck.
it ran ok. 170 hp 305 in the camaro after roller rockers. full msd ign and 6al box slp headers y pipe and 3 " cat back performer rpm intake. machined my own adapter plate for the 670. it might have made 210-220 on a good day. probably more like 200. the cam in the 305 wasnt even 200 deg duration im memory servs it was only in the very low 190s deg duration cam and around 440 ish or so lift. TINY. ended up scrapping the entire setup for a 650 double pumper and large cap hei ignition. REALLY woke it up. and it then for sure made an honest bust laughable 220-230 ish hp. but compared to 170 it was nice. car also had a hughs 2500 rpm stall and 3.73 gears and a shift kit. with what started at a 100 shot and ended up at 250.... yep on the factory bottom ended 305 lmao. ran its own dedicated fuel line and fuel pump. floated some valves a little. ISKY springs stopped all the high rpm intake nitrous sneezes. ran a bottle every weekend for over a year. thats when i built a 355 roller. then the big money 406
yea i did start with the 800 4 barrel tbi also from holley but this was the much olderbcommander 950 pro efi.... get this. this was back when the software came on a floppy or A drive haha. migrated to a port setup. just yanked the injectors off the tbi and used holleys X layout port inj manifold changed up the harness and ran it that way.
@@darinr9424 You should he able to just click on my name or my avatar picture and view channel. Then click the videos tab to see the newest first. My newest video is like 6 months old. I haven't had time to edit more. I normally don't comment on videos during the day but I'm working overnights this week.
I would have tried to remove the rockers before, to close the valves and prevent dirt from falling into the cylinders through the intake runners when removing the intake manifold
Rickard Erikson Good call. This puny cam barely tickles the valves. .385" intake lift with stock rockers. There was enough carbon built up in the runners that dirt wouldn't exactly slide down smoothly into the cylinder.
HEY LET ME SAY THIS THE GUY THAT DOING THE CHIP HE IS IN LITTLETON .CO AND ITS HARD TO GET YOUR CHIP EXACTLY RIGHT WHEN SOMEONE IN ANOTHER STATE IF HE WERE HERE DOING AND CAN HOOK EVERYTHING UP TO MY TRUCK AND CAN SEE WHATS GOING ON IT WOULD BE PERFECT ..THE COMPANY NAME IS COMMAND PERFORMANCE ENGINEERING I DONT NO IF YOU NO ABOUT THEM OR NOT..LOOK HIM UP HE'S ON THE INTERNET EDELBROCK TOLD M E ABOUT HIM..I LEARN ALOT THAT I DIDNT NO JUST TALKING TO HIM OVER THE PHONE ...
If Edelbrock referred you to him, I'm sure he knows his stuff. I had my custom chip tuned over the internet. I don't want to name the place. I have also heard good things about Harris performance. Many comments mention him and speak highly of him. I haven't ever dealt with him. If Edelbrock suggests you talk to the guy from Colorado, I'd be very interested to hear how it works out for you. I'll definitely look him up.
back when i started playin with engines i had a 305 tbi camaro. one day i thought lets throw the intake in the mill. lets try to upen up the plenum between the bores a little bit. WRONG lmao itbhas a water passage between the 2 bores on a factory intake. yayy emissions BS.
I said why I pulled the valvecover in the video. I had 3 broken intake bolts. I had to pry the intake off.. Against those bolts. I didn't want to pry against the valvecover rail. Yes, a shop vac would have been good. I didn't think it was that bad when I started. The truck had been sitting and a bird made its nest on top of the intake/distributor cap. There was straw and sticks and mud everywhere.
The rockers are cheapies from summit racing. I have a link in the description to Amazon. They are narrow body, self-aligning 1.6 ratio for a 3/8" stud. They fit under the stock valvecovers. I did not have to change anything else. I'm still rocking them now with a roller cam and trick flow heads. I'm making triple the power that I was in this video and they haven't let me down. I'm still running these headers too. I changed the intake to a performer air-gap. I think it's part number 2604 from Edelbrock. The stock 2bbl tbi couldn't support the power so I'm running Holley sniper tbi. I'm pretty much maxing out the 650hp version. I had to limit my rpms to 5250 because I'm out of fuel injector. Datalogs show 394lbs/hr out of 400lb/hr worth of injectors at 160kpa/8psi of boost. But no, I didn't have to change anything else to run the rocker arms. They are a little overkill on a stock engine, but they do add about 6% valve lift and a little bit of duration and reduce friction. I've seen dyno tests where they add 25hp. Those engines had bigger cams and revved higher. I think i figured they added about 13hp to my mostly stock engine. The higher you rev it, the more power you will gain from reducing the friction. The low revving engine can't take full advantage of their benefits, but it still sees a boost from it. I did a video on the rocker install. It's mostly about breaking a water fitting on the intake manifold and repairing it. Good luck with it.
I put a comp roller cam and some trick flow heads on her. I changed to a carbureted intake... an Edelbrock performer air-gap #2604... and Holley's sniper tbi fuel injection. She's a completely different animal!
Comp xfi252h. 252/264 advertised. 202/212 @.050" . .550"/.546" Trick flow super 23 175cc heads with 56cc combustion chambers to bump compression. Off-idle torque is incredible and she revs clean to my limiter at 5800. Short duration, high lift cam and small 175cc runners make for great port velocity. If AFR made a combustion chamber that small, I'd have gone with them. Now my major limiting factor is the single 3" open exhaust.
Hello, I know this is a rather old video but I have my mechanic who has your new intake that's powder coated red but my dad keeps telling me I'll need the matching heads and cam else the truck will run like shit, how has your driving been with that intake in your truck?
The intake is great with stock heads and cam. I loved it. With headers and open exhaust, 1.6 roller rockers, and a washable high flow air filter, I was on the verge of the stock chip at wide open throttle. I had an air/fuel ratio gauge and I was running a little lean at wide open. Not engine damaging, but a little lean. My fiel economy increased a little. It was a good intake. I ran it for about 6 months before doing a head and cam swap and going to a carb... and eventually to aftermarket fuel injection. Let me know if you have any other questions about it.
@@EricErnst the few things I've done to my engine is a newish holley carb and ceramic shorty exhaust headers with a k&n polyurethane air filter with no internal changes yet. Do you think it would be alright if I installed this with stock rockers?
You could install a carbureted Edelbrock intake manifold and your truck will run great.. even with stock rockers arms. If your mechanic indeed has the tbi intake manifold, only use it if you are running stock GM 2 barrel throttle body injection. If you have a carb, use a carb manifold. Another point to make... is your engine from 87-95? If so, you'll need a manifold that is compatible with the slightly dofferent bolt pattern. The intake manifold in this video is set up for 87-95 small block Chevy cylinder heads. I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction, buddy. There's a lot of little information that can bite you of you don't know it. Feel free to ask any more questions.
@@EricErnst I have a 1990 GMC sierra with a 5.7 tbi 350 cu small block, I have looked at edelbrock carbs as a replacement, my engine needs a square carb and intake that looks exactley like your old on in this video and i was going to replace with the edelbrock performer tbi intake and somewhere down the line get a new carb.
dont do the carb hat. junk on a tbi. airflow already has to turn and go around the injectors and wiring. now with the carb hat it comes in from the top making that worse. get a 14x3 or a 14x4 open filter. 14x4 paper is less restrictive by the 3" by a little. dont throw a junk k/n on it. yea they flow good. but filter like shit. getcha the injector pod spacer from a rebuild kit or buy one. raise up the injectors by 1/8 " roughly. it helps a good bit. get them out of the throttle bores
The tbi unit that I reinstalled in the later part of this video had an injector pod spacer in it. I went with a 360° air cleaner with a 14x3 k&n that I had lying around. I've since ditched the stock 2bbl tbi and gone with Holley sniper tbi. I put in a roller cam, better heads, and even a vortech centrifugal supercharger. I am considering a carb hat now because my intercooler situation won't allow much room. The air-to-water intercooler will sit right above the driver's side valvecover. That and a built 4L80E and custom 2500 stall triple disc converter replaced the stock turbo 400. This truck is a completely different animal now than it was when I filmed this video.
Yes. It's a L05 350. Your Buick has a small roller cam, while the 87-95 pickups had flat tappet cams. I have a 1992 Camaro with a L03 305. The stock TBI intake is identical on the Camaro and this pickup. All of the mounting brackets and vacuum lines bolt up exactly like the factory intake. I definitely liked this manifold while I had it installed. I have since gone with aftermarket fuel injection and had to swap to a different manifold. I think with bolt-ons like exhaust, headers and roller rockers, the stock chip is at its limit with this manifold. I had an air fuel ratio gauge installed and it would go lean at wide open throttle. If you have mods like that done on your Buick, I would look into a new chip. If you put a small cam or did some head work, I'd definitely get a new chip. One thing I wouldn't do is go with Edelbrock's total power package. Their heads aren't that much better than stock and the cam is pretty small. That, and they are way overpriced for the power that you'll get out of it. Search for edelbrock tbi power package dyno sheet and you'll see an old promo pic from their catalogs. It literally makes like 25ft/lbs more torque. I have since gone with a set of trick flow heads and a comp roller cam and Holley sniper tbi. I couldn't be happier. Huge power improvement. I doubled the stock horsepower and made huge torque gains too. If you're sticking with stock tbi for now, this manifold is great. And it's a great stock replacement of your old tbi manifold needs some work. I broke a coolant fitting off in my stock manifold while changing rocker arms (passenger side rear corner) so I needed a replacement anyway. This manifold looks great and performs awesome. But if you go beyond bolt-ons, you'll need a chip. Good luck with your old Buick!
These are the stock gauges from 1990. I've since added a tachometer and a pillar gauge pod. I ran a rich-lean indicator gauge from a stock O2 sensor but now I'm running a knock gauge to fine tune my timing curve with Holley Sniper EFI.
Boy....you seriously lit them rear tires up.....man. Couldnt believe it. Also, without that shifting lag, you coulda done 8 seconds. Should consider a transmission upgrade should really be on your list...but never spoke of. Especially being a t-400...God...endless cheap opportunities there. That would be first on my list. I read many of your comments, and you have lots of great ideas rolling out there. I like your comments to the guy who chimmed in about the ford truck. Lol. Crazy. Im a chevy guy...but, in my little collection, i do have a 96 f-250 with the 7.5 460 in it, that i tinkered with and some bolt ons...but will honestly, spinning the tires through all gears, with my plow on, bed full of scrap, in 4 wh. dr, couple of passengers...would probly, well, would, dust your truck..sorry to say. I give ford credit on this one. I have a 67 beater camaro that well, dont even want to get into,cause its just a whole nother animal..(you can watch the vids)...but just was reading all of these comments cause thet were getting pretty entertaining. I mean...this vid came up in my suggested videos..(dont know why..i was following up on drag week)..and it turned out i clicked on this, and the beginning was so entertaining with the intake pull off. You say" you didnt realize till you dug into it further"...Fuck, man, all you gotta do is open the hood dude. Holy shit. Your eyes go on a coffee break for a bit there. Shoot the fucking bird, get a shovel and stab his house out of your shit, then get a fucking shop vac on that shit, or at least whip out the air hose and chooch it a couple seconds...wow. That really blew my mind. Then ohh man, you got the whole fucking toolbox and every rustybolt and crusty gasket shit all over the fan shroud, battery, fenders, in the motor....man i do some quick shit sometimes and did some fucked up shit but man...what a shitshow...it really made my day..so much i had to invite my son who we are building one of these now for him when he gets his licence, well one way out of your league, but you get my point, i brought him along for the show...fired up popcorn, fuck i was about to give him a beer, not even old enough to drink, but hey son, crack this shit open, kick back, and we are going to look at 153 things, Not to do when you bust open your hood and grab a wrench series. Holy fucking shit...we had a blast....fuck..even when you put the silicone end seals..all good..but your bead on the front one..shit...you went from a 3/4 inch bead to 9/16 to 1/16...little hiccup...back to a 9/16.....is it pissing out that little spot in the front you missed ...whollly....(1/4 inch bead straight across..attention to corners where it meets gasket.....done)...wow...you been doing this shit for how long? Im sure im younger than you and ive been through hell and back with my addiction to anything with 4 wheels...and i never pulled off a stunt like this...even drunk, high, in the middle of the night with no light in the middle of a field with an arm in a cast. Man, all we have to say is thank you...really though..thanks for making our day...taking a break here for lunch....just awesome content. Oh, and, you got great camoflauge sunglasses and all....maybe you should throw 3 or 4 bucks in to get a suction cup or something for your go pro, or camera....man camera everwhere but where it suppossed to be..and then...(uhh.....wait a minute....ok....uhhh wait....uhhhh ok...wait a).....fuck me....im no youtuber myself, i dont film shit unless someone tells me to hold the camera,.....and i usually hold it on the subject of the matter, but hey...tripod....something if your going to keep doing this...hint hint.....tape that somebitch to your hat. But man, great shit...them damn launches though.....crazy ripping them tires(most likely dry rotted and hard with 80 psi, ya, they ll spin a bit)...but impessive. Alright dude....im sorry man, its all good, no hating or anything, but good shit. The comments though....man you really spit some shit though. Ill give you credit for that man. We had a blast....well be back later in day for part 2....we wanna see the head change, and the holley sniper kits, and cams.....fuck i cant wait to see the next adventure...im subben man. Oh...by the way....flowmasters? Most restrictive? Well fuck me...i gotta change my 2 chamber flowmasters that i blow down the 1/8....6.13 at 121....man, im doing something wrong, but wait...open headers.....6.09-6.10....ahhhh...fuck it....never mind....we gotta get back to work..we will tune in, to see the megasquirt,heads,cam,lifters,prochargers,turbos.......ok man, like i said sorry man, but really....thanks. You got talent man...but you got a lot to learn bro....but i dont know, this is only vid i seen....maybe theres light at the end of the tunnel. I call bullshit on the "big block injectors" also....lol.....peace man. Have a good day sir.
hey i got my engine redone you no i had to take it back out again because asshole mess up and he put the wrone cam in it remember i told u it was blowing blue smoke.so i had to take it out again... the frist cam he put in was 12-249-4 wish was to small the one i got in there ..now i got xe262 h in there..the guy thats tuning my chip pick that cam for me because i like to hear it..right now im still waiting on him to burn my chip he been pretty busy i did drive it with the stock chip but dont have any power i expected that..i no he have to raise the fuel that stock regulator spring is only 11 psi when he do the chip he want me to put the 18 psi spring in there and hopefully i should be good .i dont want to drive it with that stock chip in there when i drove it i were getting alittle ping knox its problley burning to rich the plugs was dark black and sooted..did you send me your email like to talk with you...
Trick Flow. Aluminum. 56cc chambers. Mine is the HD 8.5:1 compression version. Heads have 64cc chambers. 56cc is the smallest I could find to bump compression up to 9.17:1. The pistons are still down in the hole at TDC. They flow better than vortec with the stock 87-95 bolt pattern.. and can handle .600" valve lift. Not bad for 600 bucks each. Those heads with a comp roller cam with .550 lift make a lot bigger difference than the police interceptor computer and injectors.
have u had any problems with throttle body back fires? i just put this intake on my 90 k1500 to see if it would help with my 4mpg problem and see if it will eliminate the back fire. i have big block injectors and cam and have changed the fuel pressure regulator and rebuilt the throttle body and have changed all the throttle body gaskets and intake gaskets to see if it will help along side getting all new vacuum hoses and a new map sensor and even got new cap and rotor. i started the truck last night after putting it all back together and started it and it ran fine and all then under heavy load it back fired and then caught my intake on fire and then almost stalled the motor. any thoughts on way it may be, changing the spark plugs tomorrow too.
The first thing that comes to mind is to check your timing. I never had a problem with backfiring. Who programmed your chip? They probably already have a more aggressive timing curve in it than stock. If you don't already have one, you need a custom chip to adjust for the bigger injectors. I'd set the timing wherever the chip maker tells you. Back in 2005, I had a custom chip programmed at turbocity.com. Those guys suck, by the way. I installed the distributor straight up at 0 degrees and I had backfiring issues. Then they told me their chips need to be installed at 10 degrees btdc. That seemed to solve the backfiring issues, but I still blew out puffs of black smoke when I romped the throttle. I had ported vortec heads, big block injectors, rpm air-gap intake, ultimate tbi mods and hooker headers with dual exhaust. Check your timing, then check with your chip programmer. Make sure to unplug the timing control wire when you check your timing. If that doesn't help, let me know back on here and we can try some different things.
You should use the stock bracket. You have 2 options for an intake. Go for the $400+ gm performance parts vortec tbi intake, or get a vortec carburetor intake manifold and run a carburetor-to-tbi adapter plate. The bracket might want to kink the throttle cable if the intake/adapter plate you pick is too tall. If so, you might need to use a spacer under the bracket with longer bolts or modify the bracket to make it work. I had pretty good luck with my stock bracket here.
Add bigger injectors , ebay sells some , also order a 96-up Vortec style fuel pump , preferably ACDelco - Reliable and Consistent off eBay ep381 might be the part number ... Maybe a fuel filter to save them new injectors ... If ya haven't done a cam swap then this might be the time to do it. I stuck with a flat tappet sealed power $58 cam that surprised me , but I wouldn't be against a LT1/LT4 cam , but it will get a little more out of a work truck and more of a play/gas hog ... Cheapest upgrade that will make your head spin and requires least amount of time is the ep381 fuel pump swap which is direct fit to the weaker tbi pressure/volume ... The Pedal Lag goes away with the fuel pump, also the power band - gear pull/change is snappy... Just a heads up... I do tons of tbi rebuilds and upgrades
I've gone that route before. I was unhappy with the performance that I got from vortec heads and a chip and injectors. Maybe it was the chip. Maybe it was a mismatch somehwere else. I do feel that I was at the limit of the stock chip and stock injectors. I have since gone with trick flow heads and a comp roller camshaft. Instead of the stock tbi, I'm running Holley Sniper tbi. I can tune it on a 3.5" touchscreen or a laptop. It's way better than my old tbi setup.
I have a 340lph fuel pump from granatelli motorsports. It provides plenty of fuel. The sniper tbi system is rated for up to 650hp. Plenty of fuel. You need to mention that just slapping in a bigger set of injectors alone will make your truck run like shit without a custom chip. I used pair of big block injectors on my last tbi 350 build. I was less than thrilled. That is precisely why I didn't go that route this time. I am beyond impressed with the Holley software. It has fully programmable 31x31 fuel and spark tables. You can control nitrous or boost... or both. It is leaps and bounds better than the 35 year old tbi technology.
454 injectors are trash ... Probably the worst option on injectors... My injectors are pressure tested , flow checked on a Test stand before using... Some people like to go reasonable on upgrades or buff up the stock system... It's relatively easy and affordable... If not I'd just ls swap my stuff which is easy...
@@louisuherek2991 ok, you're king shit and everything I've done is terrible. I have a 5.3 nestled between the wheelwells of my 1993 k2500. 454 injectors were sized right for the power level that I was making on that truck 15 years ago. Tbi is very limited on its power by the fact you only have 2 injectors. If you're efficient at low rpms, you run out of flow in the high power range.
Was your fuel pressure affected at all by switching to BBC injectors? And did anything else need to be done for that modification? I guess did your fuel pump keep up ?
No, the fuel pressure was not affected in my other truck after I installed the big block injectors. For reference, every single tbi fuel pump was the same part number... from the 1.0L 3 cylinder to the 7.4L big block, so the fuel pump shouldn't be an issue when running below stock big block horsepower numbers (230-255hp). Remember, you will need to run a custom chip if you change injectors. I got mine from turbo city back in 2005. I was not impressed. I've heard good things about Harris performance from commenters but I've never tried them myself.
On my 305 I set the timing at 4 degrees advanced, I tried 6 but it was harder to start either cold or hot start. I like it at 4. I have 150,000 miles on the engine/truck. I reaally liked your video and had a bolt break on mine too right in the front coolant port. I got a vise grip on it though. The two nut trick didn't work as it was super rusty. It runs like a champ now, better than before(oe timing).
HEY SINCE IM CHANGING THE FUEL PUMP AND UP GRADING THAT PRESSURE REGULATOR SPRING IN MY TBI DO YOU THINK I NEED TO GO WITH SOME BIGGER INJECTOR THE ONES OFF A 454 OR DO YOU THINK I WOULD BE FIND KEEPING MY FACTORY ONES I GOT...
I have run big block injectors. I do not recommend it. It is hard to modulate your fueling at idle and low load situations. Say you're at 3% duty cycle at idle. If it is off by even 1%, that's a big difference. I've heard it's practically impossible to tune out the idle problems. Mine would puke black smoke on hard acceleration and got super shitty mileage. I had a custom chip tuned for it. With the extra fuel pump and higher pressure from a stiffer spring in your regulator, your stock injectors will flow more than ever. They will be perfect for your setup. If a weak stock pump causes a loss in pressure, under high fuel demands, you have solved both issues.. more pump and more pressure.
Hi great vids. Question about the torque for intake bolts, some say 25 foot pounds and others say 35 foot pounds. Or should it be somewhere between 25 -35 ft pounds? The 1995 workshop manual says 35ft pounds. Just curious your thoughts. Cheers.
Edelbrock says 25lb/ft. I wouldn't have any reservations about going 35. As long as you do it in steps and follow the torque sequence, I think you're good to overtighten a little. I think there is concern that you can break the corners of the bolt holes on the manifold or warp the manifold. Like I said, I think it's good either way as long as you do it evenly and don't just crank them down individually with a 1/2" impact.
@@EricErnst Ok cool, and thanks for your reply. I got started on it today and she's been a bit of a good old pain in the ass. Had trouble getting the dizzy bolt loose, it looked like it still had locktite on it from 1995. The heater connection snapped whilst undoing it of course but was half expecting it to happen. Love the old truck so I'll get it sorted, but it's not easy getting parts for them here in New Zealand, ususally get everything sent over from the U.S which takes about a month. Gaskets should arrive tomorrow. Cheers mate keep up the good vids.
@@cj8172 I got rid of the stock quick connect heater hose fitting at the back of the block. I just used a barbec fitting with a hose nipple. The factory design always failed! Good luck with it.
Had_Built Not_Bought These are flowtech afterburner headers. All of the plugs are fine except number 5 on the driver's side. I had to loosen the header to get a spark plug socket on it with the stock cylinder heads. I put a set of aluminum heads on with angle spark plugs instead of straight and they all went in without any trouble at all. I think the part number was 49156-1. Im going off of memory from months ago. I actually have a video on the install if you'd like a more in-depth look at how I did everything and any problems that I encountered.
Thanks man. I'm glad you learned something. Good luck with it. Sometimes you need to weld a nut to the broken bolt. The heat helps and it gives you something to wrench on.
how you doing my brother havent talk to you in a whjle hope everything is all good with you...i just got threw with my engine being rebuild the second time around,,. .but got the regulator adjustor and the guage so i can set my pressure but when i put it togather my gauge is reading 10 psi and i turn to adjust it and wont go no higher im trying to get it to 14 psi i did some up grades and my engine been rebuild trying to find out why the wont move i put the new ac ep381 fuel pump in there and got some one to tune my ship .i also took the stock spring out thing maybe it was to weak so i put the 18psi spring in there and it still reading 10psi it try to move a little bit but it went back to 10psii can drive it at 10 psi but the power anit there and the idle is high the idle will be doown when i frist start it up sometimes but once i put it in gear or give it gas it wont go back down i no he probley going to have to do another chip but i got to get my fuel regulator setting right frist..what you think is going on...
Thanks man, I try to give honest reviews. If I had problems, I don’t try to hide them. This intake worked well for me. Now I've got an aluminum headed, supercharged, Holley sniper injected, roller cammed engine. She's come a long way since I made this video. My 0-60 tests are kinda pointless now. I can't get traction at all anymore. I thought it was bad at the end of this video. Lol. This old pickup is an absolute monster now. I slapped in a 4L80E so I'd have overdrive and a torque converter clutch. That turbo 400 was hard to live with. I'd be cruising on the highway at almost 4000rpms. 2400 was 50mph. Now I can go 71 at 2400 with overdrive and the converter locked. Thanks. Your comments made me smile after a shitty day at work.
If I could make a suggestion, take the truck to a car wash or even degrease and wash the engine off at home before you work on it. I work on Cat engines and before I touch each one I pressure wash it with degreaser then work on it
I don't typically work on engines that have been neglected this bad. I didn't realize just how bad it was until I started digging into it. I'll definitely clean it out better before opening my next engine up.
I just got oem gaskets for an 87-95 small block. Installation instructions call for GM #10159409. My local auto zone didn't have that so I went with a felpro equivalent.
Putting a new engine in my 94 just got the intake. Got new intake bolts as well how did you mount the throttle cable bracket since the bolts do not have to studs on them to this intake if by chance going to be putting it on sometime this week
You can just use regular bolts. You'll have to line up the holes on the throttle cable bracket before inserting the bolts. One should be a hole and the other a slot on the throttle linkage. You should be able to get to them pretty easily with a socket and extension. Especially before you bolt the tbi back on and stab the distributor. I think you'll really like the new intake. Did you upgrade anything else while upgrading the engine? I had the stock cam and heads but upgraded a few other parts. Headers, exhaust, 1.6 roller rockers, high flow air filter, electric fans, and this intake. I was right on the edge of the stock computer chip. If I made a change to the heads or cam, I'd definitely want to get a chip for it. My main problem was leaning out on the top end at wide open throttle. I had awesome throttle response with the above mods. I also got pretty decent gas mileage with it. Good luck with everything. Let me know how it works out. I was running an air:fuel ratio gauge to see if I was running rich or lean. That's how I know. Good luck again. It's a great intake.
Eric Ernst thank you for the reply I was so glad to see this video and it will be easier as it’s still on the engine stand. The engine is just a stock crate engine I’m swapping it back to a 350 someone had put a junkyard 305 that had no oil pressure when I bought the truck. I’m doing shorty headers and the intake, the old intake they had stripped multiple holes and I got a really good deal on this intake. This engine is only for getting me by while I build a 400 for it then will go holly efi and the crate engine will go into my dads 92
@@awesomeredneck01 i think it was 2" or 2.5". If you get extra length it shouldn't matter because the hole is open on the cylinder head. The extra thread can just go into the lifter valley. I'd try grabbing 12 bolts in 2 and 12 in 2.5 and see how they go. It's only a few dollars from a farm and fleet bulk bin store.
No. This is for 87-95 heads. The 86-earlier heads are slightly different and vortec heads are completely different. Gmpp (gm performance parts) makes a vortec TBI intake manifold but the last time I checked, it's over $400. A lot of guys run a carburetor intake for vortec and a carb to TBI adapter plate. That's what I did 15 years ago or so. I had an Edelbrock performer rpm air-gap vortec manifold and a Holley adapter plate.
I only had this manifold for about 6 months before a head swap and roller cam upgrade. I liked it, but the engine underneath was not enough for what I was looking for. You know the stock heads and cam are matched perfectly to each other... they are both terrible. I went with trick flow heads and a comp roller cam and a carburetor. Then I swapped to Holley sniper tbi efi in place of the carb. Now I'm running a supercharger on top of that setup. I figure that I've over tripled the factory horsepower. She's a completely different animal.
@@killercodplays I got a custom programmed chip for my tbi to run big block injectors and increase my shift points by 500 rpms. If you go that route, talk with the guy who burns your chip first. He may have a chip made to work awesome with a certain combination of head and cam. My custom chip sucked dick. The engine didn't feel like it gained much power and it puked black smoked when I stomped the throttle. If you stick with TBI, talk to a chip guy first. It can be very reliable. I've talked to several guys on here who recommend Harris performance. I ran a carburetor for right about a year. It was good. I had to switch to an old school hei distributor so I could control my own timing. I also had to install a fuel pressure regulator to drop the fuel pressure to 5-7psi. The stock fuel pump was fine for me on a carb with 400+ hp. A buddy of mine is running a carbureted 434 big block with a solid roller cam on the stock fuel pump. Just know that you definitely won't pass emissions with a carb... and it's iffy with a chip. A carb is plenty reliable, and a chip can be just as reliable as stock tbi. You may need to get a stiffer spring in your tbi to increase fuel pressure so you don't lean out. I was right on the verge of the stock chip with this intake and roller rockers and headers with open exhaust. It was running lean on the top end at wide open throttle. I don't know how lean, but leaner than 14.7:1. For a while, I was running a narrow band O2 sensor on a gauge to see where I was. It only showed you if you were relatively rich or relatively lean from stoich. Now I've got a knock sensor gauge set up in that gauge pod to tune my timing curve with my laptop. Either one can be reliable. You'll need to make changes if you run either. The chip may require bigger injectors and a modified internal fuel pressure regulator in your tbi unit and perhaps a fuel pump, along with the heads and intake manifold and adapter. A carb will require a carb, a distributor, and a fuel pressure regulator to drop the fuel pressure along with the heads and intake manifold. If you have an automatic, it may not shift correctly on a carb. I had a turbo 400 transmission stock, so it did not need the computer to shift correctly. Now I'm running a 4L80E and had to run a remote throttle position sensor for my transmission controller. The only input that the stock computer needs should be an rpm signal and a throttle position sensor signal to shift correctly. Good luck. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask them below. I'll do my best to answer them thoroughly.
