Editing Comet Neowise with Photoshop 

oh dude, you beat me to it.

Just discussing it 😆🤣

@@arielrglaze damm third 😁🤣

i read your comment 1.5 hours too late....lol

I wish the comet mode worked but it does not work for color images. I tried everything to keep the comet and sharp stars (third mode) I think it only works for B/W images. Ultimately I had to settle for a B/W result. Bummer.

@@chargersina hmm... I've used comet mode with color images before. I wonder what I did? I'll see if I can find out.

Good thinking!

So great! Except it is astronomical 🤪

I do cover that in my Astro Post Processing Course. I've got a full module dedicated to beginners, including setting up the interface so you can easily follow along.

I just used 1x

It's under the Big Dipper, still viewable but getting dimmer as it travels away.

I use Ioptron Skyguider pro. I think Peter uses it as well. but any tracker will do as long as it can support the weight of your camera, lens and accessories don't exceed the weight limit and counter balance of the tracker.

you can capture the comet with your rebel. Is it a Digital Rebel, DSLR? I have a basic Nikon DSLR and captured the comet lenses from an 11-20mm 2.8 superwide, 35mm 1.8 Prime, 50mm 1.8 Prime, kit zoom 18-105 5.6 and a 55-200 5.6 zoom. The key is first getting a good focus. Autofocus won't work on Astrophotography. put your lens on Manual focus, then focus on a light source far away like a street light or Radio Antenna light. I suggest using a wider setting like 35mm and aim it in the direction of the comet which by now is very near the big dipper. Set your camera to Manual, your F stop to the widest available on the lens, and your shutter to 6 seconds to start. Set your ISO to 1600. That should work. If you're using a 35 or 50mm lens or equivalent on a zoom you can try as long a shutter speed as 10 seconds. If this works you can try zooming in closer, but the longer the lens IE: 100mm, 200mm the shorter your exposure must be or the comet and stars will blurr from the earth's movement. I'd try 5 seconds. if the comet is too dark then up your ISO to say 3200. Make sure you have a Steady Tripod and a remote release to avoid shake. If you don't have a cable release set your cable to self timer where you push the shutter and it goes off 3-10 seconds later. Good luck, I hope this works and the clouds work in your favor. Best if you can get to an area with darker skies away from the bright lights of the town or city.

With a Star Tracker your can increase your shutter time to say 30 seconds and lower your ISO to give you clean files. I'd start at 400, then increase to 800 & 1600. You can do just as well to shoot for 15 seconds at 800 and then use Deep Sky Stacker or Sequator to get stacked files with low noise. If possible drive 30-60 minutes to get away from city lights, that will help much. It is getting dimmer but is closest to earth today the 23rd. You still have a few good days left. It's getting dimmer but your camera will pick it up even if your eyes can't. I thought I missed it entirely the other day and came home, downloaded the files and there was the comet. Good Luck. It's getting higher each night, out of the muck and closer to the bowl of the Dipper.

If you have an star-tracker, you can shoot f4 - you will compensate light with time exposure (up to 4 min for example), if no ST - shoot at wide open to get more lights. Also keep in mind wide open lens usually has 1. big vignette (when you correct it in post, edges become lighter and edge noise become more noticable) 2. Big coma 3. Sharpness only in center

@@techdata_channel Hey thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I don't have ST. What do you think, should I shoot multiple photos and try to stack them with out ST? I could stop down a bit because I could compensate with higher iso (it shouldn't be a problem for D4)

@@ArsenijeRadenovic ISO will not help. It only helps you to see it on the screen. Only time and aperture can increase signal to noise ratio. I took 200 frames at 1.6sec (135mm, ISO1600I) and stacked them in DSS - no problem.

@@januszabr thanks for the reply. I kinda went crazy with iso. At least I saw the comet and I am happy with my first try with astrophotography.

There's a pretty rapid fall-off as the focal length increases. With a rough polar alignment you'd be lucky to shoot 30 seconds at 100mm+, in my experience.

@@PeterZelinka thanks man. i actually went out and worked my alignment. easier than i feared lol. also a tip for you..maybe you know but didn't mention on your tutorial. when you were aligning your comet. after you get the comet head nice and aligned use the warp tool. it lets you get the stars really good. and keep up the good tutorial. its good to see straight forward, honest and no bs vids!

www.amazon.com/Star-Adventurer-Pro-Pack-S20512/dp/B07NY44782 - It is the best to take pro pack and also tripod ball head in case you gonna use camera and just normal to wide angle lens. For ball head it could be www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/ioptron-ball-head.html or www.amazon.com/TH3-Capacity-U-Shaped-Switching-Vertical/dp/B00MGJH5U6/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XFKR9NFF8Z1CY9M11VP2

Sorry, you need a dark sky. Now we have a bright moon though. I had the same problem until I left the city.

now its kinda hard to find, shoulda tried a week ago :p

And 400% patience and dedication.

@@hael8680 1980s. Frosty night, long refractor and my own eye as a guide. Manual guidance for 30 minutes and glass photo plate. Then processing in a photographic darkroom. Without computer, motors, heaters. Just an eye and a hand. Don't tell me what commitment is.

@@haggitaurus3000 Easy tiger! And in those days people were walking to school uphill in both directions... Astrophotography is easier physically today but technology has brought additional complexities to the hobby. In another 40 years, things will have improved even more with even better results. It will still take a lot of patience and dedication to get good results. And the nights are still cold now and will still be in 40 years.

This video is a secret.