We all try various approaches to solving the problems our cars provide us. But it takes real courage to experiment with solutions like you have done in this latest video, in front of all us, looking over your shoulder! Go Ross. We are right here...looking over your shoulder.
Great little tinkering video Ross, I too can relate to swear words when working on cars, most recently when I was changing side repeaters and the wiring fell into the wing!
Love the new garage space Ross! Given that I had to remove the gearshift lever on my 72 when I pulled the engine, it was kind of frightening to see what a pain in the arse it was to put it back in. Funny that when I disassembled it I didn’t have a thought in my head about how it hard it would be to go back in! Anyway, it hanks for posting!
To fit the bushing best to wrap the top of the bushing with PTFE this will hold it firm while you push the lever with bushing into the hole. The PTFE will slip off as the bush enters. It works every time.
My guess is the real origin of the weak positioning for the 3d gear lies elsewhere. The gears are selected by shifting the shafts holding the arms moving the gearwheels and synchromeshes to different positions. These shafts have indents in them in which balls under springpressure assure some resistance to moving in and out of the correct position for the selected gear is exerted. Since this is a low mileage B, it is unlikely the indents are worn away partially, but a spring failure to weaker action is a distinct possibility. Does as such not warrant a gearbox inspection, but IF it ever has to come out anyway this is a future option. BTW I only once worked on a gearbox, from a 2CV at the time and the fear of letting such a ball escape into the innards of the box, i.c. to the inbuilt diff troubled me a lot at the time. MGB gearboxes I give a wide berth, these are for specialists only IMHO 😯
Had to do this recently the problem is the new bushes are oversized relative to the cup they are meant to go in if you use a new one it probably needs to be turned down slightly
It doesn't matter which way round the wires to the overdrive switch are connected, but it is very important to fuse that circuit as it is not fused from the factory, and those wires can chafe and short out.
It's not the leather gaiter that is the problem but the rubber. If you lubricate the lever with Vaseline you don't have to remove the knob, heat-shrink makes it even tighter. Having gone that far if you invert the rubber so the pointed end is down by the gearbox that makes the shift much lighter.
Third gear fallout with the leather gaiter is an issue with many MG's. John Twist in Grand Rapids Michigan had a couple of videos that address the issue of fallout and issues with engaging reverse. There are some adjustments that can be made on the gearbox. Skip to around 2:30 in the first you tube link. This was made as they were moving into their new shop in 2011. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-03yV73jNbkM.html The second video deals with reverse and again this can be done under the car with adjustments to the reverse light switch and a plunger under tension. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MDaAPeEu2sI.html I do hope this helps. John has retired from the daily work but still has a small shop near me and he travels to all the national MG shows around the US conducting teach and repair seminars.
Given that it only has 3 holes, any other way would have the slot in a peculiar orientation, so I think it's right. That said, I'll look into that. Thanks!
Actually, the springs make a difference, or they would not be part of the design. The cover plate rises and falls depending on gear shift position, putting down force on the pivot ball. If the cover plate is screwed down tight, the shifter can not travel full stroke, and it will pop out of gear. Put the right parts in there. As for the bushing, bevel the bottom perimeter with sand paper before pushing it into place. The remote control hole has a sharp edge. Bevel the plastic and it falls into place.
