This video is absolutely fantastic, thank you so much. I have a Ford Galaxy tdi 2 ltr diesel auto engine. The Egr valve completely frozen. Now it's out i used Cillit Bang and Mr Muscle oven cleaners to clean out all the carbon build up and dirty and i must say it looks brand new!! Again thank you for a very i formative video
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Thanks for this video it's a great help. I have this engine in the Citroen DS4 2012, egr cooler is identical and I think it might need replacing, engine light is ON, slight slow loss of coolant and engine oil without any signs of leaks as well as plenty of carbon deposit soot build up inside that silver pipe which connects to the egr held on with the torx screws, as well as oily residue in the throttle body and the big air pipe which connects to it. Do you think it's worth trying to clean or once there is signs of coolant loss it's too late as the inside of the egr cooler has perhaps raptured in some way. (Also on refitting everything, does the coolant in this system have to be pressure filled or just fill bottle and allow to run the old fashioned way is ok and keep topping) Please tell me what you think from that info or ask anything else you need to know, sorry for such a big message just trying to give you as much detail as possible to answer in one go as I'm sure you're a very busy guy. I really appreciate any help you can give, thank you, Dan.
Thanks so much for this video Jim, it's a great help. I have this engine in the Citroen DS4 2012, egr cooler is identical and I think it might need replacing, engine light is ON, slight slow loss of coolant and engine oil without any signs of leaks as well as plenty of carbon deposit soot build up inside that silver pipe which connects to the egr held on with the torx screws, as well as oily residue in the throttle body and the big air pipe which connects to it. Do you think it's worth trying to clean or once there is signs of coolant loss it's too late as the inside of the egr cooler has perhaps raptured in some way. (Also on refitting everything, does the coolant in this system have to be pressure filled or just fill bottle and allow to run the old fashioned way is ok and keep topping) Please tell me what you think from that info or ask anything else you need to know, sorry for such a big message just trying to give you as much detail as possible to answer in one go as I'm sure you're a very busy guy. I really appreciate any help you can give, thank you, Dan.
Thanks for the great video, I've installed the blanking plate for running about 50000km, but since then the dpf started to regen frequently, guess, there might be leaking in somewhere, I decided to remove the blanking plate and clean the EGR valve after I watch your video. one question, may I know the specification of the socket you removed the bolt on 9:36?
Brilliant video! Jim, I need to fit a new aluminium fuel filter housing, do I have to take that surround off to get to all the bolts? I can't find a service manual anywhere. Many thanks.
Mam pytanie. Ta ostatnia śrubka od egr do której jest bardzo ciężki dostęp postępując z tym instruktażem uda się wyciągnąć EGR bez demontażu kolektora ssącego? Focus mk3 2.0 tdci 2013 dw10c
Thanks for your video. I have a bit different problem. My egr looks like is not moving. Just sometimes it's opening up till 39% measured on forscan but apart of that all the time is 0% Egr itself looks OK and working when dismantled I'm just wandering if high soot level in dpf can cause some kind of emergency mode so pcm is not opening egr to not allow engine to smoke and clogs dpf even more. How do you think. Dpf load is 198 dpf soot 189 but dif pressure on idle 2 kPa. Strange.
How do you get that last screw out, the one on the silver pipe???? I've just had to give up for the day as I can't find anyway of getting access to it!
Great video mate but unfortunately I cant get bolts out of throttle body actually they are stuck in the housing to be exact bolt and housing came out in one piece......somebody fitted wrong gasket and oil(or residue from egr) was spraying all over around throttle body ☹
Great video! I see you have cleaned the pipe only. My EGR has 112000km and i am thinking that it might not need a replacement, only a cleaning. How can i clean this kind of EGR? Spraying inside ? thanks for your recommendations
DID you get any answers on this. I'm trying to do the same, my coolant level is slowly going down though without any signs of leaks so not sure but I think the egr might need replacing anyway.
Great video Jim can I ask do you know the pin out for this EGR as this is the same unit on my 2015 Peugeot . It has only done 18000miles but has a lot of carbon buildup in the inlet this has now been clean but I am still experiencing problem Thanks
Thanks, and no I dont know the pin wiring layout off the top of my head , and its been a little while since ive done one of these. sorry 👍if the egr has been cleaned then perhaps the EGR itself has been damaged by the carbon build up? Make sure youve also cleared the fault codes / learned values stored or it may still think theres a problem even if there isnt 👍
Thank you this is really useful. I have the exact same engine. Is it possible to clean these on the car to maintain them or do they have to be removed?
Thanks for the comment! Erm no its not really possible to do a clean on one without removal, the best way to keep them and your engine clean is long runs hard acceleration and decent fuel or fuel additive, short runs driving like miss daisy and rubbish fuel is a big blocker of these sorts of things 👍
ALL THINGS JIM thanks for the quick reply. I have just purchased the car and it feels a little short on power. Feels like it’s lacking torque compared to my Seat diesel. Changed the air and fuel filter (was black). Also have some forte turbo/fuel treatments i am yet to run through but thought maybe the egr needs cleaning. The car only has 40k miles but the last owner was only doing 5k miles a year which is no good for the engine. Any ideas? 👍
@@chrisjh1982 its a hard one to say really, first try not to compare it to your seat as the seat may have had more bhp, and I wouldn't run a turbo cleaner through it personally that kind of stuff can do more damage than good sometimes. If it were mine id probably start by replacing the diesel when its nearly empty with some premium fuel (like shells v power) it burns alot cleaner /easier but is more expensive, failing that keep using a fuel additive every other full tank or so, and give it a Major service, then id be inclined to get it read for any sort of fault code and statically regenerated, if the dpf is getting blocked that can also effect the performance, and a regen would burn out alot of the carbon deposits built up, after all that id just make sure to give it good long drives let it get nice and hot, but if your going to be doing short journeys it will eventually clog up again unfortunately
ALL THINGS JIM that’s really helpful thanks. The engine seems to run fine but I think ford diesels are more linear in power delivery than the vw engines. What do you mean by statically regenerated? Is it possible to force a dpf regen or do the cleaners in the fuel tank work? I do a lot of miles and the car feels better already just from driving it properly but still feels like it’s missing something.
@@chrisjh1982 a static regen is something done in a garage with there diagnostic machine, it basically revs the engine up to around 3500 revs for a period of time to get the dpf super hot and burn the carbon deposits out the engine and exhaust but need to read fault codes before thats done to make sure theres nothing wrong with the system. Typically if you're doing a good run on the motorway sat in 5th at 70 for a while it does it itself and you never notice it, but it wont do it if theres something wrong with the system or for example your dpf is already slightly blocked due to a previous owners mild use of it. But a garage can also tell you if its blocked/ getting blocked beforehand by looking at its soot percentage on there diagnostic equipment. its just a thought ( easy for me as I wouldnt need to pay for it!) if you say it already feels better then you could run it for a couple of weeks / a month and see how it feels after some proper usage. Oh also be wary if you take it somewhere and they tell you the dpf is completely blocked and needs replacing for ££££ as ive only ever seen one needed genuinely replacing, (ive even got them cleared with a soot value of 300% - fords wierd figure not mine) a common thing that can block them aswell is a faulty fuel vapouriser- but that would show eml light on a code and vehicle would likely go into limp home mode. Im only telling you that to educate you abit on how it works btw im not for a second suggesting your cars got these faults..... My advice after all this ramble would be service it majorly put good fuel in it or an additive and give it some good runs down the motorway. If it feels better great if your still not happy get a diagnostic check at a ford dealer hope my rambling sort of helps aha!
Thank you for the video and comment. I have error code P245D EGR cooler bypass controll circuit high. Do you think that it is enough reason to replace EGR? Thank you very much in advance.
Id run through some diagnostics first on the electrical circuit to make sure its not a wiring fault if I were you, also clear the code if it will,and see if it comes back on and if the engine acts differently when eml light is off (has more power)
@@ALLTHINGSJIMThank you for your reply. The same code reappears after clearing of it. As soon as it happens, angine looses power when under load. I will xheck wiering, but i think it is malfunctioning EGR. Thank you, once again.
If its only just started and its because of carbon build up you may get lucky by cleaning, but in experience it ends up being a waste of time or doesnt last long before you end up just replacing it, sometimes its not worth the hassle 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Thanks for the reply! I recently had an error message. I deleted it. I fill up with premium fuel and used ProTec system cleaner. It is currently working without any problems.
If its the engine im thinking of its at the back of it ( take engine plastic cover off and took over the top to the back) it doesn't look like this one either and has an electrical plug attached to it
Well I did this twice in 1 week to check it was all working but each time I reused the old gaskets.....since then I'm not sure it's running right and I'm losing water and there's Soot inthe expansion tank, so I'm guessing the gasket has failed......or it's the Head :O Got new gaskets on order. Can't find them anywhere in UK.
I just unplugged the powerconnector to the EGR. Effect is imiddiately. Just make sure EGR is closed at the moment of unplugging. Yes, you will get an engine malfunction light and with a BT OBD2 connector en something like the torque app you can monitor the engine quit nicely.
Thanks alot for this video amazing information, just I wonder I've watched Ford mondeo mk4 2011 2.0 tdci 163hp version engine, i just wonder why the engine was quite dirty and oily even it has only 170k km, I looked like 300k miles, with a test drive performed well but I was worried about the reason causes this engine to be that dirty, something more please I'd be grateful if you would reply me, normally testing any engine for blowby is by removing oil cap with this engine there were completely nothing coming out of the oil cap even engine was really hot but nothing, does this mean engine hasn't any blowby or there is some other way where the blowby goes through with this engine, I just wonder, I'm grateful anyway for this video and hope you'd reply my questions, thanks
on this engine, often, the turbo wears and leaks oils, that go back to the air intake. mine was oily at only 60 000 km. (40 000 miles). egr is not helping either.
Nah its pretty straight forward to be fair , they probably think its going to be a pain in the backside if they arnt familiar with the job, or are worried its not going to be the problem and youll complain whatever faults still there after its been replaced and dont want the hassle (not saying youd do that by the way just using that scenario as an example)
there's only one torx screw that is a really pain to remove. in the end, i removed the whole intake manifold to be able to remove the egr valve, but this was a pain too, with things in the back that had to be done blindly. but the intake manifold was so dirty too: really had to clean it anyway. did all that one year ago, and everything works fine since.
@@ALLTHINGSJIM If I do just remove the EGR without removing the cooler unit then will the cooling system not be required to be drained? I don't want to be messing with the coolant seals if I can help it.
Привет, очень хорошее видео У меня такой же движок, и я хочу EGR, я уже несколько дней занимаюсь серфингом в Интернете в поисках этой информации. Сколько стоит утечка хладагента? В целом или частично? Мне нужно заменить термостат одновременно, есть ли информация о замене? спасибо
i did it one year ago, and everything works fine since. there was a lot of black powder inside. i put a lot of products inside to clean it: cheap petrol, wd-40, brake cleaner (very important to finish with this, removed the oil left by other products). but sometimes, when the egr valve is blocked, that destroys the valve's electric engine, and then, cleaning is not enough. But mine was fine with just cleaning.
Hi Jim, Very good video , I have a citroen C5, which has this engine. Would you know the part numbers for the 3 seals you replaced so I can see if I can order them as Ford spares. I'm missing the metal seal aswell
Ive never done it so I cant tell you 100% to be honest but id imagine a tuning company would yes, but youd need the vehicle also remapping and most probably the dpf filter contents smashing out also, you cant just fit the blanking plate
@@harry8389there's less soot, because you're not recycling exhaust gas. Also higher combustion temperatures will allow more complete burning, so again, less soot.
