This stuff works so well. I did it in terrible circumstances, no control over dust, bathroom in use by kids etc etc, and it dried rock-hard and smooth aside from some very minor imperfections. No big deal.
Thank you so much for this video. We were SO nervous to do our claw tub but it has been needing it done since we moved in. This was so helpful. My husband & I did ours last night & it looks amazing. It looks like a brand new tub. The product, ekopel, was easy & great. If we knew how easy it was-we would of did this a long time ago. Thanks again.👍🏼
Hi...just left a comment on another of your video's on this tub treatment...clawfoot tub that I am refinishing. I am surprised the home owner didn't want the faucet and drain removed for this. I like the idea of the propane instead of the heat gun...seems you wouldn't get a much air blowing around with the torch and less chance of dust, etc. Nice video....definitely going this route when it starts to cool down in about 3 or 4 months (Florida...) Thanks again...
To fix any orange peel areas can sand smooth with 220-320 grit sandpaper then if you don't need more material go to 600 then 1500 then use any car buffing compound to bring the shine back. If after sanding you do need more material use our pour on touch up kit to fix.
Thanks for your videos and explanations, followed all your details on our claw foot tub, it came out great and as I took pictures and sent them out I said it looks great and is better than the picture, some spots may look thin, they are not, it’s shadows,
Great job. Second video I watched you do great work. My question is I have some pretty good spider web cracks in my bottom and some chips. Do I use a filler product before coating?
This is very, very helpful. Would you consider showing the "repair" of a previous coat done with cheaper materials? I live in an apartment and, based on your videos and other videos, the building renovated and used a cheaper product that bubbled and pealed by the 4th month of me living there. I would like to repair it myself and just need some clarity on what to do about the pealing and bubbling current coating. BTW I'm ecstatic that you have a "pro kit"!!! I will circle back and add an update once I tackle this myself. In the meantime, I'll keep watching your demos. Many, many thanks for your professional demos.
This is the second video I've watched with you and I have a couple of questions: 1. Can you mix the part B in with a mixer paddle at low speed and 2. I want to tint this with a alkaloid base tint to a black color, will this break the product down?
No! Be sure to watch the mixing video to prevent air bubbles, and product failure down the line. Hand mixing is required. Black isn’t an option. Alkyd tints will darken or change the color but the base is white and needs to be a somewhat light color.
I used this product today and let me say ,it's not ideal for short people with short arms.. I was kept bumping into the wet areas and couldn't get all the excess eloped and it looks like it pooled up where wall of tub and bottom of tub meet.. SO JORROR OF HORRORS WHAT DO YOU DO TO HELP THAT SITUATION..WHEN I WENT BACK IT COULD NOT SCOOP NO MORE EXCESS IT WOULD HAVE JACKED WHOLE THING UP..HELP ME EKOPEL KANOBI ,YOUR MY ONLY HOPE!!
No need to worry!! watch all our videos and follow the directions given and you will change the tubs life!! We are here to help if you have any questions feel free to chat with us online or call and we can help!!
Rae Cherrelle I would think something like Scrubbing Bubbles, would be ok. It’s not harsh. I wouldn’t use Comet or Barkeepers friend. How about glass ceramic stovetop cleaner. I don’t think it has abrasives in it. I doesn’t scratch my stovetop.
Great vid, thanks. Question: do you now usually use a roller with everything or is it because it's a rounder tub? If you use a roller all the time now what size and thickness roller do you use?
Great question. The mini 3-4” foam rollers are the best. We are looking for a cost efficient way to include then in each kit. For spreading out the bottom and leveling out the excessive find the roller to be the fastest and easiest way to do it. I am going to do another live video on a regular tub on Friday and will be using the roller to level the top and bottom edges, also to get a quick coat on the front. I will try to be as descriptive as possible to help make the new process even easier.
Good Day. I did my tub last night and we got nervous and repoured some on the ledge. Now it dried and have drip marks on the inside. How do we fix it without using a touch up kits.
You can sand that smooth with 220-320 grit sandpaper. Then when it is smooth to the touch you can double the grit of sandpaper to 600 then 1500. Next you can use any car buffing compound and it will bring the shine back.
Hi , I have the same tub and wanted to know if she or you did the feet on the tube if so what did you use and how to do it. Also the out side of my tub need refinishing also is that more difficult to do.
Yes you can recast the feet as well with the ekopel. You can dip the feet into it. For the outside you will have to flip it over and then pour like you would the inside
Hi! I recently did this to my clawfoot tub. Everything turned out great until a day or two later I noticed a small pinhole on the bottom...do you have any recommendations on fixing this?
How long does it take to dry once applied? I will be having it installed in its final destination in the next 24-28 hours... I currently have it in the apartment kitchen
Have a tub that was sand blasted. it is all pitted now. Did the refinish and it is shinny and white but still pitted. How can I get rid if this and make it smooth again?
I used a kit from rustoleum which adheres okay and doesn't chip, but absorbs stains like crazy. Might I ask how this one holds up in terms of maintaining its colour and resistance to staining/ It would be worth the extra money if it holds its colour (and doesn't chip).
With proper prep work our product won't chip or peel for up to 20 years. The only problems we have run into with staining is if it didn't cure for long enough and people leave there soap or shampoo residue in the shower it can cause staining. So we recommend to rinse the shower out after you use it to make sure there is not residue left for 30 days after you apply Ekopel. After the 30 days is up you should be fine.
If its a clawfoot unit and its completely uninstalled then yes you could just place something under the hole to catch any excess. If the unit is installed then you would still need to tape up or the pipes could get wrecked.
If they are hardened I would recommend sanding smooth can even fill with car bondo then sand smooth if needed then use our pour on touch up kit to fix.
If your using ekopel I would recommend sanding it smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper can even fill any uneven areas, cracks, chips, holes, dents, or pitted areas with car bondo then sand that smooth . Use Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it and it will etch and deep clean. From there tape up and pour.
What about the underside edge of the lip? I'm painting the outside first. I was going to run a 2" wide tape lip to the back of the underside of the top lip. That should keep the Ekopel off the tub and allow me to coat the bottom of the lip with Ekopel. How low can the temp go while it cures? I'm going to move the tub inside but the temp is usually 62 at night, 68 or so during the day. Thanks
It's up to you if you want to tape that off or do it first and let dry. The product dries in 24-36 hours but it can take up to 30 days to cure. The cure time does not affect when you can use the tub though. You can use the tub in 24-36 hours after you've poured. We recommend 72-75 degrees you can use a space heater with the door closed to achieve proper temp.
You didn't use the comb on this clawfoot tub, but you did in a different video on a normal tub. Is that because you used the roller on this tub and/or its a clawfoot?
Austin Chase yes, the comb method is how we did installs originally. It is slightly more cost effective to do it that way. Our preferred install method is with the foam roller.
Any mistakes can be fixed by sanding smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper. If after sanding you don't need more material then double the grit to 600 then 1500 then use any car buffing compound to bring the shine back. If after sanding you need more material we have a pour on touch up kit that is the same material just a smaller amount.
If you use this on a cast iron tub, what do you use to keep it clean? Your website stated "Avoid abrasive cleaners and clean regularly to maintain a long lasting shine." But it did not give any suggestions on what to use. So what would you use? Thanks.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions thanks for the answer. I guess soft scrub is out. What happens if you mess up your tub? How do you fix it? Do you have a video on that? I haven't gone through all your videos but I haven't seen it yet. Thanks again.
just me Jaja thanks for the feedback. No even the best spray material every created will eventually peel up. I owned a company that applied spray finish for 15 years. We produced over 10,000 units. We used Ekopel for 1 month and then sold all of our spray equipment. I will never spray a tub again. Give us a call when your ready to stop breathing the chemicals, and provide your customers with a finish that you can stand behind. All spray finishes will eventually peel. To peel Ekopel you need a blowtorch.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions FYI, the kit I was sold had significant chemical fumes. I confirmed with your help line that the can contained Ekopel, not the old tub cast product you used to sell. I definitely needed a chemical mask, moderate fumes persisted for several days. Frankly the product didn't level as expected, I'm not very pleased with the results. Ive asked Sarah to try to track the batch and figure out why this had fumes and didn't level well.
Damn. A few minutes in and I feel even more stupid than before. I'm watching this because I used a new (lysol) toilet bowl cleaner to try and get stains off of my tub and ruined it. 😅🤦🏻♀️😭
Question: Getting ready to use the Ekopel . . . Prior to I had to strip the old paint/epoxy or whatever it was. the tub is not yet connected to plumbing so the acid etch step (washing) will be difficult. Given I just stripped the hole thing down, is this step necessary?
James Barfield no as long as the tub is good and clean it will be fine. If it’s not being etched so customers sand the surface to make sure it is very clean. I would go over it quickly with 80 or 100 grit paper by hand then just wipe it out.
Aww that such a bummer! But it's fixable! Heat up the area with a heat gun or hair dryer then take tweezers and pull the bug from the finish. After that you can sand the area smooth with 220-320 grit sandpaper if you need more material we have touch up kits on our website you would apply and it will look good as new. If you don't need more material after sanding then you can double the grit of sandpaper to 600 then 1500. Next use any car buffing compound to bring the shine back.
I would recommending sanding smooth to the touch even if its pretty smooth ruff it up with 400 grit. Then give a deep clean and etch with Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner with hydrochloric acid in it.
I have questions but reading the comments clearly, no one answers any fucking questions so good video but I don't understand enough to make a decision.
If you have questions you can ask though here and I'll get back to you asap or you can call us at 877-882-2278 or email us at sboudreau@refinishedbathsolutions.com
