I have a custom made on a stealth bomber frame with 26" 4.5" wheels and a 8kw standard motor that also struggles to do 15.5 mph😂 also have a upgraged bogist c1 pro now I recommend TIRE SLIME as before I was sick of getting punctures at least 1 a month sometimes more on the scooter so now I fill with tire slime and been great also keep a bottle and a small pump attached to the scooter and the bike just in case as there is nothing worse that getting a puncture miles from home. My bikes grip in this weather are brilliant in the battery I have put some issulation to try keep the battery warmer as when it's like this cold cold cold freezing the brass knobs off a monkey. You get around 70% of capacity.
I ride fat ebikes all winter. The cold causes the battery to have reduced current output, overall power storage is not affected. This means battery that has a 35ah discharge rating at 72°f. may only have a discharge capacity of 20ah at 10°f. A 25amp controller will cause severe voltage sag in that cold battery when under load. I ride with 2 48v batteries in a parallel circuit (48v.). This configuration with a 25amp controller will only draw a maximum if 12.5 amps out if each battery under full load. In this way cold does not negatively effect preformance, also the effective range is more then doubled. This method is very gentle on the batteries. Charge the batteries separately, charge time is same as one battery if 2 chargers are used. A connecting device that allows the batteries to be connected without the need to have the voltage identical. (Never connect 2 batteries directly in parallel if the voltage differential is more then 1/2 volt, ie 52 and 52.5 is ok without the dual connector device). The amh of the batteries does not matter, but keeping them close is more effective. My main snow bike is a Himiway Cruiser with a 17.5ah and a 16ah 48v batteries. It works at 10° as well as it does at 72°. I run dual batteries year round, most times charging to 80 or 90% for drastically increased battery life. Be sure to balance charge once every 30 or so charge cycles. Have a blast!
Cool Andy! Great Ride. A couple of thoughts on charging through the power port: First being that some packs, might have overcharging protection only through a secondary port, and that cell balancing not function properly or at all. Also, that it might be advisable to use an inline fuse on the charging leads not much larger than the charging current, in case of reverse polarity connection, internal charger or terminal shorting, and that cell balancing
I went out after sunset at about 4pm on my stealth bomber which is a 60v 40amp QS205 5T. Cut across the park which is usually dark but the snow lit up the area, straight across the road onto the other park which has a steep hill and there were loads of people using the hill as a ski slope. So I went up the hill and just halfway up the battery cut out so I had to push a literal tank back home. I realised I didn't charge the battery all week, the voltage and range have dropped dramatically because of the cold. The next day was a blast, I just kept to the main roads as they were clear but the sidewalks and backroads were dodgy as there were no snow gritters about. Got home and my hands were frozen solid. Today stayed home was too damn cold to even open the door, minus seven and ice-like glass everywhere, now looking forward to next spring, a new paint job and more upgrades 😂
Great video showing how good these fat tyre e-bikes really are in the snow! I'm interested in the bike you mention in the review that you will be doing a review on next, it isn't the Freego DK200 by any chance is it? I'm trying to decide which to buy, at the moment my short list is this bike, the Freego DK200, the GoGobest 750 (dual motors) or the Duotts F26 (again dual motors but can't find any reviews on this one). My main requirement is hill climbing abilities (not bothered about top speed) as I live in a very hilly area. Looking forward to your next review and any thoughts about the above list would be greatly appreciated!
I've been wondering if I can charge premade e-bike battery packs through their main connection, for regen-braking, and changing at a current high then the charging port can handle. You helped me a lot. Thank you, and happy new year.
Should be able to get away with 0.5 C charging OK - so a 12Ah battery ~ 6A, though if you can spare the time, lower current is better. The only thing to be wary about is near the top of charge if the current is high and the balancer can't keep some cells in balance. So, in general, you can use a higher charge current if state of charge is low, but then ease off. You can also connect chargers in parallel! So, if I'm in a hurry, I'll use two 5A chargers in parallel until half full, then unplug one of them until charged.
They don't win when there are icey road though haha. Speaking from my experience 1 hour ago after my Engwe EP-2 lost it's grip and fell out from under me.
I have a dual wheel motor fat bike for checking round my cows, i need the flotation over that provided by a dual motor mountain bike, ( a hilly farm but lots of peat and bogs as well). The fat bike slides about on mud and snow, the narrower tyres of the mountain bike are much better, but my routes are more limited.
The leads in my bike battery mount have corroded so am just using banana plugs to a backpack battery. A bit of a pain to always have to wear the backpack but it works.
Not on black ice aleady crashed on my 1000w far tyre e bike. Never a good time for this to happen it was downhill at 20 mph, with a huge range rover just inches behind me!
somethings not right here i think you have amp limit going on. my 500watt fat 26 inch could eat through the snow no problem. the problem is it getting in my face. its a 2000watt fat tire 26 inch rim bike now though.
Must not live where it gets really cold (I'm talking like 10 degrees F or colder.) I borrowed a e-bike fat bike from a buddy and it's battery didn't last a 3 mile ride into and back from town.
