I thought the reservoir cap needed to be on tight to do this. Is yours loose to relieve pressure in the process (taking finger off the too of your straw as a kid)
Thanks for such a simple and easy video to follow. So once I have replaced the coolant tank, I need to fill up the coolant tank with coolant right to the top (to where the max is in the coolant reservoir) and then run the bleeding procedure to remove all the air pockets in the pipes, is that correct? When do you put the battery charger on? (do you put it on your positive and negative battery points right at the start as your doing the procedure? and is it pretty obvious when it's finished? (i.e. does the water pump stop going)
Thanks for the comment. Yes that is correct about the coolant level. Yes put the battery charger on before you start because the procedure can last for over 10 minutes. Now I had some models that did shut off by themselves and some that didn’t. If you start the procedure it should last for 10 to 15 minutes and shut off automatically if not 15 minutes max should be sufficient and you can stop the procedure manually.
I've done this process a few times now. The engine seems to be just fine now, holding temp where it needs to be, but my heater blows cold. How do I get the air out of the heater core?
When you accelerate does the heat get hot? If so it’s probably air trapped. Try breaking the seal on the hose near the heater corr to let some coolant come out.
Can you please help... My car BMW 2014 X3 F25 the Electric Water Pump Bleeding was working fine twice. Then, it stop after I used the Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealer. The Engine getting hot. So, I changed the Thermostat and clean out the Reservoir Tank. Same issue. Should I change the Water Pump? Is there fuse that I should check? I got 3 Codes: 1) CD9010 LIN, Message: Electric Coolant Pump: Missing. DTC Status: Current 2) 1A2004 Electric Fan, Actuating Wire: Line Disconnection DTC Status: Current 3) 1A2002 Electric Fan, Actuating Wire: Short Circuit to Ground DTC Status: Current Please help :) Thank you & God Bless
@@motorcarnut Yes... NEVER again... Now, I have a lot of headache. Changed the Thermostat, Clean out the Reservoir, need to change the Electric Coolant pump and flush the radiator again... to make sure all those blue googy out of the coolant system. The hard part is to locate the fuse or fuses :(.
I ended up replacing the water pump, thermostat and of course flush it with 50% vinegar and 50% distilled water! Actually, I have to flushed again so the particles in the coolant get flushed out! I used total 10 gallons for flushing 3 times :(. Now, it is back to normal I hope 😄😃😀thanks God!
hello I have a question I have a 2013 BMW X3 F25 the Ford warning light is still rounding up and still on the board despite everything the bottle is full of water
Hi.. my F10 520i 2012, the radiator fan spins at max speed very loud especially when i stop or idling and with high outside temperatures. No overheating no error code. Flushed coolant, pulled a vaccum with tool and followed the bleeding procedure but problem still unresolved. Coolant flow stream in the tank is good so i assum the pump is good. Replaced thermostat and tempt sensor but no help. Been driving with this problem for over a year with no overheating. Please help no one has figured out the issue so far
Thanks for your reply. I must mention the fan is able to change the speed from low to medium and to maximum speed when the coolant temperature in the hidden menu on the cluster exceeds 95 degree Celsius.
@@motorcarnut the sensor on the top of the hosepipe ( have to drain the coolant ) the sensor you disconnect the clip then remove, the fans working when the AC is turned on but not to cool, I shall look into that, the pointed brass type sensor or the part that connects to it,thank you so much again
@@motorcarnut thank you now know what the module is ( I ment temp coolant sensor - the module is silver, im going to change both at once ( not expensive). But it's well worth it, thank you for you're help 👍
@@motorcarnut yes I've had a good look & done research- changed a relay ( from my friends BM - wasn't that but was a long shot as it works on AC) if I'm changing the coolant to change one thing I'll replace the coolant temp sensor ( which im sure it's not but being so cheap I'll do that also while I've drained it ) if it's not either if them then it is what you have said - which I believe it is now also, however the fan module I'll have to remove loads of parts etc so I'll try ( & hope 🤞 it's the easy & cheaper job first ) the fan module will take 2 days to arrive- I want to thank you very much for you good & prompt advice - throwing parts at it is not the answer I agree but them parts are cheaper to buy & ill only replace the coolant once, going for the ones I can do myself first to help my confidence etc) thank you very much,I'm recommending yr channel to a few people 👍, will tell you what solved the problem once it's fixed ( I've a feeling it's the fan module- researching to try it myself 👍
Never jump start OR attach a battery charger to the battery. You have got jumping points under the bonnet. they are not there for good looks!! Risking frying your modules and IBS!!
Actually your incorrect, the reason for the terminals under the hood are for more convenient jump starting than going into the trunk and loosing the panel to get to the battery. Actually the battery itself is the best way to charge battery.
@@motorcarnut yes I’m certainly thinking it’s the problem. Bottom hose line feels empty. Like I completely hear air when I squeeze it. I just had it all replaced less than 2 months ago. So weird