Great stuff Delroy. You're dead right about the terrible install of the MV unit. As well as the wiring in the way, that flexible pipe (see 9:30) should only be used sparingly, rigid pipe is much better for airflow and preventing dust and you can't tear a PVC pipe, but it looks like the whole runs have been done in flexible pipe. You had no choice but to also use cable ties - not your fault, but the system should never be done like that in the first place. I also bet they cheaped out and it's just Mechanical Ventilation, with no Heat Recovery function, so it just makes the house much colder. Makes me worry about the workmanship of everything else in that block.
the first word you said said you might have to move some of this stuff he still didn't how ignorant omg how can he expect you to clamber over that rubbish & work
I have had the misfortune of a similar set up Vent Axia with humidity control in one bathroom nothing in en suite and nothing in kitchen, Vent Axia was very helpful but Landlord hadn't a clue what it was, Tennant no idea how it worked. So it was turned off, Why is my bathroom moldy? These units need an annual service to clean filters, Seems a great idea but unfortunately like many clever things nobody has any idea how they work 😂, Great video Delroy ❤👍
When we wire these in new builds, we have a separate twin and earth going to each of the switches thats a switch line and feed. and then to have it come on with the bathroom lights we'll use a double pole switch so that the MEV and lighting circuits dont mix
Should have got the speed controller spider fan trickle speed for 24hour and high speed for showering and kitchen use or fit a fan in place of the outlet air terminal theres room above ceiling for wires one in shower room and one in kitchen
These units run 24/7 or supposed to lol. It's a type of central air replacement unit. This system should have a switch in the kitchen to boost the fan unit for when your cooking.
Interesting video Delroy. What a terrible system! Multiple extraction points with no incoming fresh air ventilation?? Don’t know if there are trickle vents in windows but even if there are, people don’t always leave them open. Why did client wait 8 years to get this sorted!! Place must have been full of stale air most of the time - no wonder he had mould everywhere. Very bad for health, esp elderly or children. Not a great design - place needs proper MVHR unit really. Keep up the good work! 👍
How you have the patience to do that del I don't know I could but I wouldn't simple fantastic outcome that fan system is rubbish nice one del 🎉 and your comments at the end are spot on 10/10
I think it’s meant to run on trickle continuously, with a boost switch in the kitchen. Not a great set up!! Well done for trying to sort it. An MVHR unit with internet link would solve the issue, but of course they ain’t cheap, and it would require in/out vents to the outside. Looks like the architect/ builder has done a cheap job to try to comply with Building Regs but it’s pretty useless as it is. 😮
Looks like London is full of these dodgy new builds and i'm surprised aint burning. London’s burning! London’s burning! Fetch the buckets! Fetch the fire-hooks! Fire, fire! Fire, fire! Pour on water Pour on water
Two way lighting grey and black got mixed somewhere along the way, maybe in a hidden junction box. Plenty of slack on the right hand conduit, always dry fit before drilling new holes. Plenty of long length drill bits and screwdriver bits to overcome access issues. If you are reading this Del, not a criticism, love your videos.
I’ve seen a few different types of MVHR in my time and some have a third speed operated by a second switch line. Usually, we daisy chain between each bathroom and the kitchen grid. A double pole switch is used to keep the lights and MVHR feeds and switch lines separated. Some MVHR switch lines are also 12v. I.e lighting feed wired to L in, lighting switch line wired to L out and MVHR feed wired to N in, MVHR switch line wired to N out in a double pole switch. This makes the fan boost automatic for the user as when they turn the lights on, the fan boost also comes on from the same single switch action. For this property if the original wiring cannot be used the simplest alternative may be to use a Switchbot bot on the kitchen fan boost switch triggered by wireless Switchbot motion sensors in each bathroom.
I fit the Envirovent MEVs which come with built in humidity tracker so the unit powers up to high speed when it detects humidity when someone has a shower. No need for all that faffing about with switches.
That comment about the rangehood having a carbon filter? Yeah, it doesn't, I'm almost certain of it - my landlord had installed similar external venting extractor in my place and it just vented to the wall or space between floors. Indoor venting rangehoods will have a grill on the front to feed the air back into the room
You would think these fan units would have separate inputs that would match the number of duct fan entries. That way whenever you turned the light on (or switch in the kitchen) the fan would run at full speed. It’s impossible to do it on the mains side as all the switched lives would be linked, resulting in all the lights coming on. 🤔
Surely you could have say 3 switches all connected to the same switched line? if 1 is medium speed and 2 high speed motor spins slow to just remove stale air say you turn the cooker on it powers the extractor up to medium, the shower room etc it goes to high as the steam water content is much higher.
Common issue in the block indicates either bad design originally, any extractor wired in to be continually working is going to fail sooner than one controlled by a moisture stat or timer.
Wow - No wonder the fan life is pants if it is trickling away morning noon and night. Wiring diagram would be interesting to see. Nice one Delroy - You wont be defeated.
Usually these are wired so they are on a low mode 24/7, and then are boosted when you have bathroom lights on, or you've pressed switched on the boost button in the kitchen.
I was going to suggest taking off the small section near the hatch and use that to patch the pipework then insert a new piece to replace it. If ther three switches feed the boost for the fan without seeing the wiring diagram , you could possible put all three on the connection that the kitchen switch feeds to.
I don't really understand why you'd want a central ducted exhaust fan in a residential setting like this, to me it just seems a bit overkill, maybe I'm missing something glaringly obvious.
@@klarnorbert Well there aren't any windows in my bathroom or toilet, and they just have stand alone exhaust fans like you'd find in most residential settings.
@@khingtv6060 What's the reason you'd want to do that? Is that so you can heat the living area without needing to turn the heater on? Wouldn't this mean this only occurs when someone's taking a bath or shower?
