Subscribe to our RU-vid Channel: www.youtube.co... Follow along with a licensed electrician and an InterNACHI certified home inspector as they inspect the Electrical Wall of Defects built by InterNACHI and NACHI.TV.
I guess it's my turn to point out yet another error - the two legs on a 220 line are not "phases", electricity as it applies to distribution is either single phase or 3 phase. Also, a guy in his position should not be holding the front panel anywhere near the box when trying to read from it.
How many decades before ppl stop incorrectly referring to N American voltage as “220”? Voltage drop is an actual problem in need of diagnosis, it doesn’t help when ppl keep misquoting nominal voltage.
The outlet segment is interesting in that all the boxes are deep boxes so there is lots of wire to work with. Unfortunately a lot of boxes you encounter are not deep so the amount of wire you can fit is much more limited. For a little more money you can put in a deep box and save yourself a bunch of hassle.
Unless I missed it, two improper outlet occurrances were left out: Bootleg Ground (there's no ground wire, so the neutral was connected to the ground lug as well as to the neutral lug); Reverse Polarity with Bootleg Ground (neutral is connected to the hot lug, hot is connected to both the neutral and ground lugs). An outlet tester will not reveal this very dangerous mis-wire!
There is an ECOS product that I have that uses a very long, separate, equipment ground wire. You establish a known good ground, and then test the outlets. Set up like that, it will catch reversed hots. It can also indicate if the N-G bonding occured within 15 feet of the receptacle, which is uncommon.
Just a general note: Home inspectors are not electricians, or roofers, or hvac specialist, plumbers, foundation specialist, etc, etc... An inspector has to have a minimum base on all these systems, and until the laws change, that's how it goes. When someone is buying a home, unfortunately it's not practical to have every trade come in and do a full inspection. The buyer would spend $1000-$1500 per house they wish to possibly buy, and in the event they don't buy the home, they have to spend that amount every time for the next house they look at. As you can see, this isn't going to work and this is the point and purpose of the home inspector. A home inspector has more knowledge overall on all these systems than an electrician, but as a single unit or trade, of course an electrician has more knowledge on electrical than an inspector.
Neutral doesn't carry current its just a reference so you can get away with 30ga wire wrap wire and save lot of money. You can use scotch tape instead. Don't forget to replace the breakers with 4" elevator bolts just snap in the rails. They are thin enough they work as fuses and don't pop right away so you don't have to worry about constantly flipping and replacing costly breakers. If it's an older house you can put a stack of pennies in if you cant find those glass fuses. Remember ground wires aren't really necessary so if you are out of wire or want to save money you can just remove the ground wire and reuse that.
If the main wires from the pole/line transformer into the house into the breaker box needs replacement can I just use destranded Ethernet cable in its place?I can splice in about 2' of it and just wrap the smaller wire a few times around the main wire ans seal with electrical tape to make sure it can handle the full load. 10' of the cable yield 80'f of wire. Either net is rated at like 5GB/s so that should handle 60Hz no problem. Also if I don't have that could I use the wires to my USB charger and just destrand it? Those switch mode power supplies are at like 300hz so they should be able to handle the mains wiring to the breaker bar just use one wire per leg and a ground; in the case of USB cable you will even have an extra conductor.
No home inspector I have ever met is qualified to do an electrical inspection. That sub panel had the neutral bar bonded and they didn't even notice it.
Great video! However, gloves are great for sharp edges, but not truly safe for working in a live panel unless the gloves are rated as electrical safety gloves, and the only (almost) "perfectly safe" practice is to DE-ENERGIZE the panel, then test to verify the circuit is de-energized. And don't have blind faith in the little $10-15 pen-like hot/deenergized devices shown in this video - at the very least, find a hot circuit and make sure your tester gives you a "hot" indication on an energized circuit before trusting your tester on an unknown circuit, rather than getting a "not hot" (no light/no buzzer) indication because the batteries are dead, and start poking around in the box only to get your hair "curled".. The commentary regarding AFCIs (a PITA for electricians and consumers alike!) is great, and the segment on home-runs and AFCIs with shared neutrals is spot-on, but you should add that GFCIs ALSO have the same problem with shared neutrals.
I thought NEC says no mixing grounds and neutrals even in the main panel bus. And of course, ground screw removed in sub-panels and neutrals kept separated to keep grounds running back to the main panel.
No not correct as of 2017 code, we have not moved to 2020, but I don't expect to change, at first main disconnect, neutral bar is bonded and you may mix, downstream you cannot.
The large wires as he says aren't Service Entrance Conductors thier called FEEDERS the service entrance conductors are the wires that comes from the transformer to your meter.
bunga, The main circuit breaker panel, *is* a Service Entrance. The conductors coming from the meter are part of that, and called Service Entrance Conductors, among other things. Feeders are located after the main panel on dedicated branch circuits.
Okay.... Am I the only one here who noticed that David is casually sticking his hands everywhere while wearing a metallic wrist band / wrist watch on his left arm? Remove the metal bracelets before sticking hands into a live breaker panel. Remove gold/silver necklaces, rings, wristwatches (esp. metal wrist bands/bracelets) so you don't accidentally connect to anything energized. Same safety rule applies to people working in an auto repair shop where under-hood things are rotating or near the alternator or lead acid battery where there is the possibility of the metal jewelry connecting +VDC to chassis and heating/glowing red hot in seconds. I know a guy who lost a finger when his wedding ring touched a wrench on the + terminal of the car battery and then the car chassis. People in machine shops should never wear necklace or loose clothing because of rotating lathes and Bridgeport quills / grinders. No neckties in a machine shop or while working on a car or motorcycle and no conductive bracelets in a breaker panel around live wiring.
This is obviously a dummy panel made by studio techs to look real. But this guy David knows this isn't a panel carrying electricity and is behaving as if this reckless behavior won't cost him his life by virtue of this panel not carrying live currents, which casual viewers will ignore... and believe this behavior is ok in the real world.
Possibly, however if you watch the video he says @ 1:40 that there is live voltages present (why lie?) and as the video progresses you can see lights and receptacles powered up through wiring. His pocket NCV detector beeps when placed near wires too. I'm convinced the wall is live. He pulls live wires out of receptacles by twisting vigorously, at one point a spark jumps from a wire he handles carelessly. That metal wrist watch band is scary. Observe the close up shot in the video at 2:05. His metal band gets very close to one leg of 240VAC.
He did explain this in the beginning and there was posting on screen stating never put your hands inside a live panel. but obviously to for video had to point out things he was talking about.
He does make a good point about aluminum wiring. Since it has to be larger in diameter than copper to carry the same current, it's nearly impossible to get a good tight wrap on switch and outlet terminals before tightening them down. Then since aluminum is soft, even very tight connections tend to work loose over the years. The result is heat-creating resistance which ends up melting the terminals, a HUGE fire hazard that I saw the results of with 25 years in HVAC and 5 years in apartment maintenance. My somewhat educated guess is that they only allow aluminum in the larger sizes because it's beyond the range of screwdrivers, and most terminals will use large Allen wrenches which are capable of much higher tightening torque for safer and surer connections. But for branch circuits that normally use # 14 wire, I consider unchecked aluminum wiring to be one of the most extreme fire hazards in houses of that era. At the very least, go around and tighten every screw on every switch and outlet, and make sure they're tight at the breakers as well. Half a day's work might very well save your life in the future. If you live in apartments, put in a work order to check and address this possibility. Remember that circuit breakers can become stuck in the ON position due to heat from loose connections. This heat can eventually melt parts of the breaker, including the safety devices responsible for shutting it off in the event of an overload. Pick up a $20 laser thermometer from Harbor Freight and do a little investigating in the breaker box. If any wire reads remarkably hotter than the others under full load, check the tightness.
He didn't shock himself, it's startling when you cause a short though whether you get shocked or not, it's very loud and sparks fly, all while knowing you're dealing with something that will kill you. It will cause anyone to jump a little.
When I first started working with electrical, a "wiggy" was simply a neon bulb with two leads. I could tell 110 or 220 by the brightness of the bulb. And 600 v made it really glow - but didn't burn it out.
I loved using wiggies. They've got really nice pro ones now. But most home inspectors do not use them, because we simply do not make electrical current measurements as part of a typical home inspection.
Previous comment: "3 phase has 120 degree out of phase and 2 phase has 180 degree out of phase." Not so. Two phase systems, which briefly proceeded the implementation of three phase systems, had two phases 90 degrees apart. Reference: Continental Control Systems LLC ctlsys.com/support/two-phase_electrical_service/ : What is two-phase electrical service? Residential electric service in the United States (120/240 VAC) is sometimes called two-phase service but this is NOT correct. It is only single-phase, since both line voltages are derived from a single phase of a distribution transformer with a center tapped neutral and are 180° out of phase with each other. Two-phase service is an obsolete style of electrical power distribution where two phases are provided that are 90° out of phase with each other. There were two line wires and one neutral, so two-phase service was commonly a two-phase three-wire service. Another variation used four line wires and one neutral for a two-phase five-wire service. This was sometimes incorrectly called four-phase five-wire service.
I look forward to seeing the links for videos by all the negative folks. Can I throw out a bogus complaint too? Code does not allow short pants. Thanks guys.
How do you know who's code to use? 100 year home had no wiring and might have a 35amp main breaker 120 volt no grounds and no 240 volt. With inspection certificate that say's it passed 10 or more times. Ran across this more then once
The local township has jurisdiction as to which code is enforced. You may want to ask your local code inspector or certified home inspector using inspectorseek.com/
If you do contact the code enforcement office, keep in mind that if they find shortcomings, you will probably have to resolve *All* of them within 30 days. Non compliance may result in something as bad as eviction due to uninhabitable building.
You know on switch #13 of this video it might be better said. If instead of having it marked as line & load' to just eliminate the word load altogether & replace it with the word Feed , as this might less complicate matters of which end is which to hook it up to & feed off of? Quite frankly a good many of D.I.Y people think load is the live line coming in to feed the line going out. This is probably why so many people get confused with this type of G.F.C.I or the A.F.C.I
Guys like the bald dude are the guys you end up finding dead next to the panel. He's waaaaaaaaaay to casual with the way he's sticking his hands in and touching things in that hot box. And 12:04 I saw a house almost burn down because of exactly what they're talking about. There was arcing and the lead would pull right out of the connection. Antioxidant paste or not, I will never use aluminum wiring, no matter how much more expensive copper is.
Hi, Sub Urban Diy Guy. He was very confident that his gloves and his actions as a licensed professional were safe. But for us home inspectors, that was well beyond our work scope and safe practices.
The vast majority of Service Entrance cables are aluminum as well as power distribution lines. It's very common and not unsafe for applications like that. Internal circuits since the early 1970's must all be copper.
I am not that sure to have lights on a arc fault breaker plugs most of them not for fridges microwaves furnaces and similar loads But overall using GFI and Arc faults it makes a safer choice
I’m sure he knows what he’s doing, but I couldn’t agree more about his terminology. It was evident in the beginning when he was talking about grounding and bonding.
Home inspectors are not specialist. We learn surface level understanding of all the components and then recommend people to come to you guys. The fact that he didn't know all the specialized terms is exactly the point.
I was taught that when you run a sub panel fed from the main distribution board, you needed to remove the green bond screw at the main panel and use 4 conductors to connect the sub panel.....2 feeding conductors, 1 neutral conductor and 1 grounding conductor. the neutral conductor feeds all the neutrals in the sub panel and the grounding conductor picks up all the circuit grounds.
Those gloves you say provide adequate protection.........against what? I see no evidence of insulating properties. If they are nothing but leather, why would they protect any better than bare skin against electrical shock? I can see where they (might) provide some protection from skin abrasion when you take a big jolt of electricity while your hand is in a panel, but can't believe it will protect from any degree of shock? Some people may get the idea that all they need to do to work in an electrical panel is slip on a pair of leather gloves. Please clarify!
he clarified when he said that those gloves are not isolated .... in my opinion, I prefer using plastic (for electrician works ) (because I understand the risk of electric shocks) than leather gloves... just ensure that they are really dry .... and always they will be better than bare hand or finger .... just use your common sense ...
I agree. The licensed electrician in the video was taking a lot of risk, but he wanted to demonstrate how he performs his electrical work. And that type of work goes way beyond the scope of a home inspection.
leather would provide insulation your n the right train of thinking if leather is just animal skin why would it insulate however leather is dried so its not conductive EXCEPT for when it becomes wet rubber workgloves would be better i favour just turning the power off and tagging/locking out the breaker from being reactivated
encounter* fluke costs so damn much.. it's not the end-all-be-all of meters. I got an eevblog branded meter, it's very good quality, it's been shown to be at least as accurate as a fluke, and was still under $200 including shipping and the extra features like a carrying case and high quality test leads. even has the inductance sensor in the top of the meter, or can use the negative test lead to probe around for hot wires, and on the AC voltage setting, has an optional filter for use with VFD's.
Even more important to a person who does industrial electrical maint. It is an AMP meter as well as a multimeter. And if it does AC as well as DC, well, you got the shit!
This is why people shouldn't hire home inspectors. They have no clue what they are talking about. The nm clamp that the feeder is coming through is perfectly fine. It's clamped on the opposite side of the box, preventing the wire from moving. And the county inspector looks for sheathing type, not wire size. The size is evident but if it's not THHN sheathed than its SER, which is also fine to feed main panels with as long as it doesn't run against insulation. These home inspectors ruin us electricians with false sense of danger only to make money. Most home inspectors also put quotes along with their inspection notes to let the homeowner know what they would charge to fix it
I respectfully disagree, Mike. We have a Code of Ethics that does not permit home inspectors to make biased recommendations related to correcting defects observed. And in relation to the electrical issues in the video, we enjoy watching licensed electricians teach home inspectors in our videos.
The bold headed guy is not a home inspector he's a licensed electrician, a licensed home inspector will never touch anything inside a panel, they are not even supposed to take the panel cover off .... I use my voltage tester to move conductors out of the way, or a plastic pen and maybe double check on the screws to see if they are tight on the conductors and maybe move a wire to see any double taps on the neutral bar, and check for knock outs and the proper gauge wire for correct breaker size and to see the service conductor type, bonding, grounding and if any bars from meter to panel and for pointed screws and blanks.. I might trip a couple of GFCI and AFCI breakers and reset them .... I'm Looking for any arcing, burn spots on panel, and melted insulation on conductors. Then close the panel..... Oh and make sure that all breakers are from the same manufacturer and finally if the panel is rated for AL/CU if both types was Nox used on AL conductors .... Just the basic things that will burn your house down....... I am a licensed inspector in Scottsdale, Arizona..... When I applied for my license there were 56 applicants and only 3 got our licenses, not everyone becomes a Home Inspector ..... The rest of the candidates went to Nevada, or some other state to get their licenses...... First pass The National Home Inspector exam then talk bad about a Home Inspector !!!!!
Patrick Baptist an arc is an explosion I’ve seen breakers blown out holes burnt in boxes I’ve blown up my pliers a few times over the years if that dead front isn’t on you’ll shit your pants when it arcs
We are not required to diagnose, we are only required to report what we see. I appreciate that they are trying to show why each problem is happening and how to fix it, but it's not part of the inspection process. I did find some of it informative but like anything, there are areas where common sense should be applied. I'm not opening any outlet in a home unless I suspect there may be aluminum branch wiring.
The electrician says to wear safety glasses when poking around in the box, and then proceeds to poke around in the box without safety glasses. And grabbing those hot wires with just leather gloves! He must never have been to arc flash training - wonder how many years ago this video was made ? The new standards for working on boxes that are energized are a lot stricter than anything mentioned in this video. Basically they want you to shut the power off or put on a lot of PPE - and leather gloves are fine but they need certified rubber gloves under them. You also need a full face shield and not just glasses.
Thanks for the feedback, Larry. This video was produced not for electricians or code inspectors, but for home inspectors who are generalists performing visual-only inspections.
How about a little rehearsal or even loaded questions to help with a flowing conversation?!? All the back and forth is wholly confusing and contradictory in nature, it may also help them appear more knowledgeable. For a "newbie" I would recommend something more simple....or try to make you vids into a series. P.S. higher resolution cameras are widely available for a lot less than you think!
Thanks, GA plinkder. You may be interested in another electrical training video course at www.nachi.org/electrical-training-video.htm. It's free and online for InterNACHI members.
IN OLDER BUILDINGS CONDUIT CORRECTLY INSTALLED WITH A BONDING STRAP TO THE GROUND BAR IN THE PANEL, THE METAL BOX IS GROUNDED VIA THE CONDUIT THEN OUTLET MUST BE CONNECTED TO THE BOX OR SCREW LUG CONNECTING THE CONDUIT TO THE BOX..OXIDATION CAN OCCUR AT ANY CONNECTION ALONG THE PATHWAY BACK TO THE PANEL THUS LOSING GROUND ..
Thanks for the feedback, Steven. This video was produced not for electricians or code inspectors, but for home inspectors who are generalists performing visual-only inspections.
As a home inspector I'm not going to stick my hands in a live panel for any reason. I'm not going to remove receptacles and if I see things wrong in the main panel I'm recommending a certified electrician check the system. Certified and qualified are two different things. I feel this video should be removed from InterNACI's inspection list.
I appreciate the feedback, Michael. This video is NOT teaching home inspectors to inspect the electrical system according to the Standards of Practice. Not. It's a video of a licensed electrician sharing his knowledge to home inspectors. According to the Standards of Practice, a home inspector is required to visually inspect the electrical system and components in the most safe manner possible, which includes NOT removing panels or removing receptacles.
33:00 there are not two phases of 120 coming into the panel. It is single phase 240. Phasing refers to the position of the sine wave of AC current as it flows through a conductor and to a load. In this instance, both hot feeds are on the same sine position, hence why you can achieve 240 on two legs (single phase).
@Jefe Julio el Gringo Judeo Yes, thanks for the correction. 180 split single, my mistake. I just did not like that he's referring to the busses as if it were 3 phase minus a leg.. being that you achieve 240VAC split single with one transformer on the pole as opposed to a 3 phase SE that's dropped down from 3-primary 13Kv lines (depending on the POCO) with 3 cans. Thanks for the clarification
Actually there are two phases. This has been argued over and over but the fact of the matter is, there are two phases 180 apart from each other. Sure it has a single phase source feeding the pole transformer, but that doesn't matter. It is too confusing for someone just learning to call everything single phase.
Steve// Video is correct and you are wrong. It’s 2 phases (dual phase or split phase, whatever) at home. Phase A to the neutral is 120V, Phase B to the neutral is 120V, and Phase A to the Phase B is 240V because they have 180 degree out of phase. 3 phase has 120 degree out of phase and 2 phase has 180 degree out of phase.
This video could've been shot better; with brighter lighting, and a high definition camera, with appropriate close-ups, to really show the details that they're talking about.
Thank you, S. Moeller. We have other inspection videos, such as www.nachi.org/tv/2016/11/03/how-to-determine-overfusing-at-an-electric-breaker/ all on our NACHI.TV channel at www.nachi.org/tv/
Thank you so much. I have worked in the electrical area for a bit now and I learned more from this video in about ten minutes than I have after years of being around it. - Susan
I found this so helpful. I'm probably weakest, have the most difficult time, during an electrical inspection. I also found this so awkward. I love Kenton Shepard but man is he dry. The electrician carried him lol.
No. Don't trust electricians based upon their jewelry. But seriously, the Electrical Wall of Defects was built to show hazards. And you're correct in making sure that electricians should be safe at all times, including those when wearing watches.
My dad used to ride me about any and all jewelry while in a box. No wedding rings, watches etc. But you are right the wall of defects is serving a purpose of showing issues not what jewelry people are wearing. I like the fact the one hand rule is covered etc. Important stuff.
Question: Can a person who has ZERO ground in a house, ground just ONE power outlet in the house by running a ground wire from the ground terminal out into a grounded stake in the ground? My house has old screw in fuses, and absolutely no ground wire anywhere. There's no plumbing or anything in the house to use for a ground either. I run a compost toilet/outhouse, and haul water there. I want to avoid the risk of frying my electronics but I cannot afford a full electrical update. It's 10,000-12,000 to do this (almost as much as I PAID for the house!!)... I won't be able to afford it for YEARS best case. SO what I want to do, is somehow protect my electronics by at least grounding ONE outlet cheaply. Is this possible? AND NO, I DO NOT HAVE INSURANCE, so I don't care if things are certified insurable, just so long as my gear is safe.
Hi, Fireblazer. To answer that question, I recommend contacting your local licensed master electrician. That's probably the best thing to do for the type of advice that your looking for.
fireblazer6661. As far as your electronics are concerned i would drive a 10ft ground rod ALL the way into the ground right under your panel and then bond it with the right wire to the panel above it. As far as some how keeping you and whoever is crazy enough to live with you in that house safe, i would run the right ground wire from your receptacle all the way to your panel and bond it to that panel. Good luck.
fireblazer6661, Aw, HELL no. This is an equipment grounding conductor, not just an "earthing" means. It has to run back to the service entrance ground buss bar. In your case, inside a fuse panel. Buy an NEC (Code) book, and follow it. There are condensed, abbreviated versions at Lowes and Home Depot. Also, check out all the DIY electrical books at your local library. I disagree with Max R. This conductor must be in the same conduit, tubing, or cable. Never run Any conductors separately! Run new non-metallic cable (type NM) to every location that you want "grounded". If the receptacle was not in an electric outlet box, get a new box plus receptacle. You will likely need Two 10' ground rod(s), daisy-chained below the soil surface and bonded to the service entrance correctly. Ask what the ground rod separation must be in your location. I think they will require minimum eight feet. Finally, hire an electrician to do all the wiring inside the fuse panel.
You might consider switching the breaker off before servicing any electrical outlets, light switches, etc. Especially without eye protection or you're wearing gardening gloves.
Really weird that you say "You should always wear your safety glasses, but I'm going to take mine off since I don't see good with them on." Seems like a terrible way to start...
The guy with the grey hair can't seem to grasp the difference between a single pole and double pole breaker, and why it carries 220 volts as opposed to 120. Not someone I would trust to look inside my panel, or inspect my home!
Hi, Harborcbs. This video was produced not for electricians or code inspectors, but for home inspectors who are generalists performing visual-only inspections. And Kenton played the role of asking a lot of basic questions.
I don't think that was the point. It doesn't matter if the breakers are single pole or dual pole. There are two hot wires coming out of the romex - so they must be terminated at two breakers with the poles tied together (e.g. dual trip). It is commonly violated by amateurs and even some professional electricians. One of the most common places I can think of are the two 20 Amp appliance circuits in the kitchen. They run 12-3 wg romex, then terminate the two circuits in the panel with two single pole breakers.
Thanks for the feedback, Darren. This video was produced not for electricians or code inspectors, but for home inspectors who are generalists performing visual-only inspections. It's a big mock-up demonstration wall of electrical defects.
hands are protected, must be fine. wrists barely inches away, sometimes not even. why I don't like wearing gloves, it's a false sense of security. when working in an electrical panel, dead or live, you must be aware of what you're doing at all times. you cannot let your guard down. ooh well, I have gloves on, I'll just work on this here live circuit because I'm to lazy to turn it off. hell no, especially not in a training/demonstration video.
LMAO!!!!!! Not to mention, the breakers to isolate power is 1 foot away!! This is a firing offense where I come from.. Idustrial I/e local 624...Y'all single phase house inspectors keep on trying to look important with those gay ass gloves on...Come and grab ahold of some this 4160v
@@internachi You didn't think to put that description in the video? The main audience of the video, so all of us commenters know who the video is intended for.
Electricians nicknamed "Sparky" for some reason. My momma always used to say "electricity is all fun and games until someone gets molten copper in the eye". She made me wear ANSI Z87 rated eyewear lenses and frames since riding the short bus with a helmet after I fell off the back of a turnip truck. The women say I look especially sexy as the side shields accentuate my masculine cheekbones.
one of the least important things in this video that bugs me, cordless drills with lights on them. usually the light only comes on when you pull the trigger. what use is that???? I'm trying to line up with the screw head and the light isn't on. I pull the trigger now I can't seat into the head. useless annoyance! just leave the light out of the design and I'll provide my own work light.
Pete Lorenzo You must be working with cheap or older drill/drivers. New ones like DeWalts you tap the trigger and it turns on the light for about 10 sec. without spinning the bit. And after your done it stays on for a bit.
It's going to depend on the system you're working with. On a 3 Phase system, you're looking at 208V across two legs. On a 3-phase high leg, you'll get two legs of 120 and one leg of 240 (This is an older outdated system). On a single phase system, the voltage will end up anywhere between 220V and 240V depending on the transformer windings at the curb. Generally anything in the USA that's single phase dual-pole is just named "220V", even if the voltage is technically higher. If working with three phase, you just call it "208". It's similar to Europe -- The nominal voltage is 230V, but it can be anywhere between 220 and 240V depending on local conditions.
Two phases 180 degrees apart when one cycle is at it"s apex the opposite is at it's apex exactly opposite the first phase, add the two together and you will see the potential from the x axis is 110 volts above and 110 volts below thereby creating an out of phase wave that adds up to 220 RMS. Now, RMS means Root Mean Square, it means AVG for regular people, so since the voltage was originally 120 it narrows to 110 due to the fact that peaks are kinda flaky, Like, have you ever bought one of those Chinese amplifiers?, Have I answered your question?
208 is two phases 180 degrees apart and then you add in a single phase 90 degrees out supporting a much higher amperage carrying 208 volt supply because the 90 degree phase falls above and below the x axis adding 110 volts to the RMS value above and below (the 120 volts A phase and B phase) The RMS voltage that can carry 50 to 200 amps continuous is the 208 Three phase system and it is not going away. Consider factories that use induction to heat metals and glass. Do you think high amperage may go away for them?
check your math bud, three phase systems incorporate phases which are 120 degrees apart, equally... 120+120+120= 360. That is how there is so little drop out.
Scott Lundy, You are omitting all the older hardware that does not perform this bonding correctly. Also, everybody forgets that "outlet" refers to the *box*, not a receptacle.
Thanks for the feedback, Steven. This video was produced not for electricians or code inspectors, but for home inspectors who are generalists performing visual-only inspections.
Yep. One example is him talking about an "A phase" and "B phase" in a residential distribution. That is improper terminology. Home wiring is "Split single phase", so call the two hot paths what you wish EXCEPT phases.
This is a good video. It does warrant some criticism but that's ok. I think you guys should definitely make a new one that's modern and with a more professional production. The production quality is 1980 ish.
You know that is how the human population is brought into line right? War, famine, pestilence. And now idiots like the commenters on this video doing their own work.
I believe the standard states that switches, and circuit breakers used as switches, shall be installed so that center of the handle of the switch or circuit breaker is not more than 6 feet 7 inches above the floor.
The $5 GFCI cube shaped outlet tester cannot detect reverse polarity when a false (a.k.a. "bootleg") ground has been installed. This crime increases the risk to fire and electrocution. This crime is most commonly committed by general building contractors engaged in “flipping” pre-1965 built real estate and is found across the country. Motive: Money. It costs several thousand dollars to rewire a single family residence to meet code. It costs less than one hundred dollars in material and labor expenses to pre-fabricate 30 to 50 wall receptacles with a short jumper wire installed from the ground terminal screw to the neutral terminal. Purpose: To willfully deceive both private professional home inspectors and city inspectors who rely on a basic GFCI receptacle testing device alone. This results in the home buyer erroneously believing the electrical system is properly grounded and safe, thus increasing the perceived value of the home to justify a higher sales price, and an inflated profit. The buyer pays for the rewiring twice, once in the higher mortgage, and later to actually rewire the home. Solution: Either physically inspect the wiring connections to the new receptacles or use the Extech CT70, the IDEAL Electrical 61-164 Sure-Test Circuit analyzer, or the Amprobe INSP-3 which have the capability to detect a bootleg ground. Both InterNACHI certified and municipal inspectors appear to resist resolving this due to their aversion to liability and risk of litigation. Search for "bootleg ground" to learn more.
Stan Benton RU-vid is good for background "TV" when you don't have cable. I was going to say how it's more educational too, but I think I lost a few IQ points watching these two.
Yeah, he should have turned off the power and used a tool to insert into the removal slot, instead of twisting, twisting, twisting. That can damage the push terminal inside the receptacle.
they want you to learn what the possible cause is for the issues you find has a home inspector. you are totally correct these are not repairs that home inspectors do, we don't do any repairs... but after seeing this it can help you sound more knowledgeable to have a further explanation has to what the possible cause for the receptacle issues you have found may be caused by instead of just saying call an electrician
David seems like a great guy, but boy oh boy, what a nutter. "Always wear eye protection" and them promptly takes off his eye protection. Going on about how his thick gloves protect him, when they're not actually rubber. And that damn METAL WATCH was within a centimeter or two multiple times, of live conductors. Any electrician should know better than to wildly twist and yank on backstabs to get a wire out. And any electrician should know that they don't 'go bad' and you need to 'use a fresh one'. I guess unless of course, he always damages them by ripping wires out like that. The fact that he doesn't like the NEC allowing ungrounded 3 prong outlets with upstream GFCI protection exposes the truth that he doesn't know how GFCI's work, or how they were designed, or how they protect people. When used the way he "doesn't like", people are still protected because within a half wave cycle of you receiving more than 5milliamps of live current, the gfci will cut power, and prevent injury. In fact, the proliferation of GFCI actually made grounding largely irrelevant as far as preventing shock injury to humans. Of course grounding is still important for preventing fire and equipment damage. You DO NOT touch the main lugs, or feeder wires at all unless the meter is pulled, or it's otherwise disconnected. When he reached in with both hands and shook on it, I just about threw up. What an absolute loon! I hope he's still alive, but seeing as this video looks like it came off a VHS tape, I'm don't have high hopes. I've downloaded a copy of this video in case it gets deleted, and I'm forwarding it on to the Colorado Electrical Board to get David's license revoked before he kills someone.
I couldn't watch more than 15 minuets of this video. I cringed and it pissed me off that you claim to have "adequate" gloves and you both kept touching live metal components. That is a recipe for and accident because you know it's live and that your gloves are not rubber low-voltage gloves with leather protectors, tested and certified to have no defects. You are working entirely unsafe and I would never work alongside of you.
House hold wiring/motors appliances are so easy compared to analog electronics. You can do all the math in your head. i'm always aurprised when people can't figure it out. Plus when in doubt follow code or better and you don't have to figure out math and loads.
An objection I have to arc faults, is they place active electronics inside the breaker panel. Active electronics, which can themselves malfunction and cause a fire. And they take up too much space in panels. When CAFCI, AFCI, and GFCI breakers were introduced, panels should have been required to be larger (Another 12 inches wide, or perhaps even double-stud-cavity. Or make panels be twice as tall, and have only a single column of breakers. The physical volume that AFCI's consume in today's panels is absurd.
