Electronic ignitions; to use or not to use 

Please check out my friend Dave Tobin's channel, Mercedes Market! ru-vid.com/show-UCyABlrap-g2DK52rdgdQ-tQ

I worked on air cooled vw for years and every time a car came in running bad 8 out of 10 times they had a failing pertronics kit in them. I have thrown dozens of pertronics pieces in the 🗑. You can't beat a Bosch 009 dist. Bosch points .copper plugs and correct wire set. This was 20 years ago so don't know about Bosch points and cond quality anymore. You bought back allot of memories with this topic. Oldie but 👍 good. Thanks for the content.

Great content as usual. Staying at home during the covid-19 lockdown is a great opportunity to catch up on Pierre's videos. If I ever visit the US, I'd love to visit Pierre. Great guy! Thanks for educating us Pierre

As always, your killing it Pierre. Your a gold mine of classic Benz knowledge. This video just cured a big headache for me. I’ve been trying to hash out some erratic idle and running issues on a ‘69 280sl with a pertronix unit. I suspected it was due to the slop in the base plate for the original points ignition and now I’m sure of it.

It's interesting about what you said about electronic ignition but how do you keep these older cars going, when you cannot get these mechanical points in your country??? To acquire from outside your country can cost 30 times more, if you can get it.

Thanks

Saved by Pierre in the nick of time. I was literally about to but a crane ignition system that Some man named Kent suggested. Thank you

I'm sticking with my old cast iron Bosch distributor with points. Works fine. Points are cheap. I usually keep the old condenser and coil if they are made in Germany. The good stuff tends to last a long time.

Thank you SO much for this video. I have a 73 220 that I made the mistake of installing a pertronix kit in, and I’m removing it as soon as new points and a condenser arrives in the mail. That unit is very unreliable and I can’t wait to be rid of it!

Got on YT this morning for my Hedary fix.

I share your sentiments about keeping it with the original as delivered equipment.The electronic ignition conversion is a constant topic of discussion.I never convert the points and condenser type during our restorations.-Tony LaBella

Love the idea of a dual point ignition. I had a 74 Z28 Cameron which had one. Stock? Anyway, it ran great and never had a problem with it. They should have used dual points on all distributors just because of what you said about them. Thanks Pierre!

Randy Durrance made a superb properly engineered electronic ignition for the 6.3. RIP

YOU"RE RIGHT Pierre, I took out the Pertronix I installed 100 miles ago in my 1972 2.0 Pinto and put points back in because the car was backfiring, tac jumping up and down, I'm just done with that after market crap. I also Tried the cheaper HOT SPARK the 1st time ) anyways, Car runs awesome again on points, Now I'm trying to get pertronix to just refund me for it, Hassle. I'm making a youtube on the whole ordeal. I ran my pinto around the block a few times with the 40,000 volt Flamethrower coil part# 40511 that came with the pertronix as a kit USING THE POINTS and it seems peppy, But I'm hearing on some google sites that it's not good to run a hot coil like that with points. because it will burn your points faster. I'm putting the Stock Pinto coil I have from the 70s back in because of what I'm reading about the hot coil no no using stock points. ANYBODY WANT TO CHIME IN ON HOT Coil WITH POINTS??? I also have 8 ohms at the keyed hot to coil. So I'm guessing that I do have a resistor in the wiring somewhere. After sending back the hot spark that failed last year, I still ran the points with the 3.3 ohm Beru coil I had after I sent the Hotspark back for that refund. But I'm bone stock again factory coil / points and all.

Some great points made here!

Thanks Pierre, im sticking to standard after rebuilding my 250S engine in the near future.

Saw the title for this and Knew how this was going to go. 15 years ago I had the same conversation with my mechanic regarding my 4.5. The ensuing rant was pretty much the same .:_)

I’m keeping my ‘75 450SEL ‘s (I mention my y/m/m for everyone else’s benefit) points and original ignition. I like the idea of an original car- that’s cool it still works type of thing. If it isn’t broke don’t fix it!!! I never forgot my stupid ‘92 Ford Taurus that broke down all the time and for almost no reason, with my babies in the back in a heat wave! That was 25 years ago... By the way, we just celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary on the 13th. I’m going to watch this video a few times to take it all in. Very good information!

from the 6.3 m100 forum...... we have a Randy Durrance electronic ignition. Just a thought, we should go back to oroginal. I've felt this hesitation before on a stock 6.3 just after another electronic ignition was installed. Our quickest 6.3 uses the stock points. Brings to mind; "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". I have never been a fan of electronics after I felt that difference.

The only reason I'm considering switching to an electronic system is because Bosch ceased manufacturing the distributor. Its impossible to find even a used one! Vacuum advance is shot on my car.

Great video, Pierre! I'm looking at a brand new Bosch 02006 (Turkey) condenser I was about to put on my 65 220SEb. Guess it's going back....thanks! Found a proper German (gold) one on eBay and ordered it.

Does 1978 w116 350se auto come with a transistorized ignition from factory?

I got a 84 rolls royce silver spirt with Bosch fuel injection all video on repairs show springs with the little nickel size chips mine don't have the springs on them is that a rolls Royce thing or did someone leave them out thanks

Great content once again Pierre, thanks! Could an original condensor on a 72 350SL (4.5L obviously) contribute to the engine not idling and stall constantly? Cheers, Mike

Thx I'm a patron, and just now, I've not one question. Unless you can advise where to point me toward a 1985 C-126 workshop manual. When you have an opportunity in future, would you mind if I asked if you can demonstrate a method to self repair a headliner and make up replace faded burlwood dash veneer, mine's coming off passenger-side rear? Greatly appreciated, & no rush. At some point I'm going to demonstrate recolouring the speedo needles back to MB orange. I last used daughter's nail polish with EXACT colour, mixed in with thinner, and gently with earbud, dabbed it across each needle, using magnifying glass and paper guard. I'll try do it again

Hello sir i've acquired a 1970 280S that was sitting in a barn since 1999. On the surface it looks very good but I would like to know what steps i should take mechanically to get started on driving. After watching a few vids I thought of draining old gas and other fluids, removing carbs and cleaning/soaking, changing spark and wires and possibly changing vale seals. Can you give me some pointers? Thanks, Romel

what does the c class w202 use? Should I keep whats on their and maintain or upgrade/replace?

Can the vacuum advance be replaced or rebuilt? Either of my Benzes. I changed the vacuum lines there too. 🤞🏻

Good video. Do you put the 123 distributor in the same category as the pertronix? (i.e. Junk?) I've heard of a few people using them. BTW, the original points distributor has been trouble free in my high mileage 250SE as has been the transistorized system in my 450SLC.

Electronic ignition will get you stranded without warning. The points will never do that.

Oh man, I think I know who you're talking about at 6:00... nothing worse than a self plugging presenter at a non-profit club event!

Crane ignition with a MSD box runs good in my old 113 SL ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G__MPBmzpw4.html