The foam used at 2:36 seems to be much bigger than 40x60mm. In fact that piece looks downright square. So… what should we be doing, Elegoo…?? Could you also send your machines with the appropriate foam size to be used?
Note that my replacement PFA films came with a blue protective cover on one side and a clear cover on the other side. At first I only removed the blue one as I thought that was the only one on it and so had to redo the whole process!
For those that are struggling with the foam piece, for my larger printers i have always used a note pad at about 7mm thick! Never failed me yet ahah and ive replaced a few
I asked Elegoo about the differing opinions about the foam spacer, and got this response: "Please don't worry, the foam here is used to keep the FEP tensioned and not sag, it just acts as a gasket. The 40 mm*60mm*5mm foam shown in the video will not make your FEP too tight. You can also use other items of different sizes, such as bottle caps, 80*80*8mm sponges instead." So I think there's a tolerance here. I used 80mm x 120mm x 8mm, cutting the foam from the FEP replacement kit and using plywood to make it the height I wanted. It was easy to install in the tank and just had a leak-free and perfect print, so I feel confident about that one.
This is so frustrating. First time replacing the fep sheet and I can't the screws to thread when rejoining the retaining bracket to the vat. When i thread 1 screw it lifts the opposite side so i can't get that screw to thread. 😰
s Hello, I am not able to distinguish which part is the upper from the lower part, I see that one of the faces of each part has a letter S. Can you help me?
If you look at the packaging foam for the Saturn 2 you'll see that it is laminated from a number of thinner sheets of foam. Each of these sheets is approx 8mm thick - they peel apart quite easily to give you a single thickness. Just changed my FEP using a 60mm x 60mm square of it. It worked pretty well. It's a chore doing the 28 smaller screws particularly - the supplied allen key is pretty weedy. It helps if you puncture the film through the screw hole when the plates are lined up. I used an awl for this.
What information they missed was the thickness of the foam piece. I just piled a few index cards to be about as thick as the frame. But when done fully reassembled it is tight as a drum surface so I hope it done right
For me the foam needs to be 80mm by 80mm and 8mm in hight, works perfect, at least with the origin PFA Film. haven't tested other PFA films so far. The foam that came with the elegoo 8k resin, but you need to reduce it to 80by80. The foam that is included in Anycubic resins need to be cutted down to 80/80 and then remove the top of the 3 layers (there are clearly 3 lines visible.. remove one and you are good do go! aswell)
@Elegoo Official I have contacted elegoo Support. They informed me that the foam used for installation is 8mm thick. The foam in the packaging is around 3.5mm thick. I do not believe this would give a good result. Getting the film installed exactly right can determine the success or failure of your prints. It would seem only logical to make sure you have the right supplies.
The depth of the FEP frame is 5mm on it's own exactly so there's zero chance the foam we're supposed to use is 5mm deep. Wasted 2 FEP sheets trying to follow these instructions only to realize the instructions are wrong.
@@user-ck8de5yy4w the last measurement is used was 10mmx80mmx80mm and even with that I felt It was probably still too tight but haven't had any problems will prints so far. I think the other misleading thing about the video is when the flip the Fram over and start tightening the last 12 bolts to stretch over the Vat frame, they make it look so easy but in reality, it actually requires a lot of pressure to get those first 4 corners attached.
@@wesleybowles6172 those first four corner bolts did go in with massive force applied but now the remaining plastic frame is now bowed. I believe I will snap the plastic as with all my grip I can't get the other bolts to grab. I think I may have destroyed it.
At 4:46, right before you cut the excess film off, you angle the sheet into the light and it's very clear that the film is loose, based on the reflection of the light onto the film. That can't be right, can it? The sheet that came preinstalled on my machine was drum-head tight. Why the discrepancy? Don't you want the material to be tight? When installing a new one, there's no need to "pull" it tighter before screwing it down?
This method enssures even tension while preventing over stretching. The bracket sinks down lower than the bottom stretching the film over a ring making it even more taught and a perfect seal to prevent seepage. This guy actually DIY's his own version of this technique for other printers and shows how it works ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9YY5MNZw_6w.html
I am having such a hard time getting these last screws in.. holy hell. I used 8mm Eva foam in the center and I’m really having to wrench on this. I’m afraid I’m gonna break something. There has to be a better way @elegoo
this is just my guess but based on the fact that the person in this video would not have been able to tell the difference and I doubt that "pfa release film technology" has changed since then, I think both sides are the same.
Had to replace mine for the first time on my Saturn 2 after 7 weeks from purchase as it developed a small hole in the centre of the FEP. At that rate I will be getting through a lot of these unless I was just unlucky? How long are they supposed to last for?
Had this now happen to me on a tiny spot in the corner aswell; i used a bit too high burn in for the first layers (was a new resin i haven't used before). Best guess to start checking those settings if you continue to observe this issue i guess.
1 year later but i write here for the record based on my personal experience: I put a Coke bottlecap under the sheet for years and diferent machines(brand and sizes) and never have a leak or break.
Does anyone know what the correct frequency is for PLA film on the Saturn 2, using the Spectroid app? I'm guessing at 360hz, but I don't know. Edit: I've just this minute replaced the film of my Saturn 2. I used Spectroid to measure the hz, but it will NOT go above 199hz - I've got the frame tightened all the way down. Too tight? No idea. I shall find out soon.
Forget Hz measuring, pointless and over complicated way of applying the sheet, just put the screws and tight them and print (in 5y of resin printing I had 5 fails maybe)
