Thanks a lot. I have to replace my FEP too and was afraid to mess up. Even though everything is printed out on the package your explanations gave me the last bit of confidence to actually do it 🙂
Great advice there telling everyone to use an exacto knife to cut a slit into each screw hole. That's a HUGE step imo. Ya just gotta be careful not to scratch or put a hold in the fep.
@MechanicalFrog I'm about to change the fep on my Saturn 8K and being the old grognard engineer that I am, I even checked the proper torque rating between the stainless steel screws going into the holes in the frame! I'm crazy, I know. But I know if I strip out any threads, that section will get loose over time. And I've seen resin leaks. They aren't pretty! Thanks for taking the time to make the video! Appreciate your efforts!
@MechanicalFrog Thank you! I develop drill fixtures for high security gov filing cabinets out of aluminum. Those use S.S. screws and to insure the longevity of the fixtures in the field I recommend toque values to the locksmiths. Our fixture vendor also roll-form taps the holes instead of cutting the threads. That ensures a stronger thread. But.. the Chinese don't know what a roll-form tap is so I'm always wary of stripping threads. Lastly, it's hard to manage fine metric threads in such a shallow depth. Sounds anal, I know but sometimes it's the little things that can extend product life.
I didn't see you do anything for proper "slack" on the fep, it looks like you just straight laid the sheet and screwed it in and that makes me so relieved. I was worried I'd have to find something to give the proper slack. Thanks for the chill video!
While I have seen people recommend this, using a little sponge or a folded up paper towel. I haven't seen a need for it using the FEP sheets I have. They seem to be perfect with just a casual treatment. I'm glad you found the video useful. Take care and happy printing!
I'm a newbie, just fitted my fep on my saturn, but I fitted it tight, no slack, but it works perfectly 🤷♂️..no printer errors, I do use a little PTFE spray on a cloth and wipe the fep on the inside of the vat just to aid the lifting process ..I think when I replace the fep again, I'd do the same thing again, ( assuming i have no problems) I dont think it needs any slack, I think it may even last longer without slack as it will naturally slacken a little with use as the fep stretches.
I did my first fep change yesterday and only got 1 print to stick to the build plate out of several. I was taught by another video to put a spacer under your fep (stack of 25 playing cards) for your first set of screws to leave slack for the second set of screws to use. I think it made my fep too loose, causing failures. I'm about to try again with your method and see if I start getting successful prints again. I'll come back and drop an update if it works out for me this time.
Thank you for sharing. Do you know if it makes a difference if it is the Saturn 8k? My instructions that came with it say to insert a foam piece under the screen during installation.
Looks new compared to the one I'm away to change lol mine from new on Saturn 2 has completely delamination of the PFA it's like a wet and dry sand paper I've used it to the max still not effecting the quality of prints inface improved now its took the smotheness off the top layer but I had a stupid tiny part that came off its support and has put a crease dint in the film so I'll change it out but almost 8 months from it printing everyday I'm very very impressed with PFA
I'm a newbie, just fitted my fep on my saturn, but I fitted it tight, no slack, but it works perfectly 🤷♂️..no printer errors, I do use a little PTFE spray on a cloth and wipe the fep on the inside of the vat just to aid the lifting process ..I think when I replace the fep again, I'd do the same thing again, ( assuming i have no problems) I dont think it needs any slack, I think it may even last longer without slack as it will naturally slacken a little with use as the fep stretches.
The hardest part is cutting away the excess film. I wasn't able to cut through all of it and it left very tiny strips of film along some of the edges. :(
Right so you don't need a stupid bottle cap for the tension no? I've not replaced one yet I'm doing it now but reme people saying and showed the bottle top tension I'm sure it will tension fine once screwed back onto vat your's looks a tidy job looks nice n tight lol
Do a search for your printer and slicing software and see if you can find places where people have shared their ideal settings. Often that can help spot the issue and prevent many others.@@averagemordhauplayer4821
I can't imagine what I'm doing wrong. I replaced my fep and tried to make it as slack as possible, but when I bolted the frame back into the reservoir it was still really tight. Every subsequent print was sticking in a blob to the fep rather than the plate. It was so tight the fep was ripping the prints right off the plate! So I decided to look up videos to make sure I did it correctly this time, and I can't see you doing anything differently than I did. If anybody could offer any suggestions I'd really appreciate the help Otherwise I just have a £400 ornament sitting there doing nothing 😭
@MechanicalFrog Yha is for the swift reply Yeah I do all the usual levelling procedures and whatbot before and after every print The FEP just keeps ripping the prints off the plate. When I tap the FEP it's tight enough to drum like a tom tom. Sounds like a cheap bongo drum in fact
@@MechanicalFrog I can't see what would've changed, as it was never a problem before, but it's a good suggestion I'll have a look, and tha ks for the reply 👍
@@MechanicalFrog even though a frog elemental would be a clanner.. I won’t hold that against you. But as a fellow printer dweeb and battletech fan, subbed
