LOL the intro legit got me! I clicked on the video and started to eat then heard the brs intro music and was like wait what I don't remember clicking on a BRS vid
Thanks for the video dude. I had the a similar issue when I cleaned out my fuge and chopped back the chaeto and cleared back the hair algae, the next day my nitrates were up and I started to see diatoms on the sand. I quickly decided to leave the fuge light on for 18hrs a Day fed less and in a 2-3 days it was nearly gone. Thanks for the channel man.
Thanks for following along! Similar to your experience the diatom on my sand is pretty much gone and the macro in my fudge has exploded with the increase in hours!
Honestly, I really found that their hand gestures are unnatural, seem very scripted and are distracting to me. Especially the other Randy. He alternates raising and lowering the right and then the left hand over and over. :D It's like someone off camera is forcing him to use his hands like that.
I always associate diatoms with new rock - part of the cycle/colonization process. And have you ever put snails down in the refugium? They won’t starve and do a great job keeping things clean. I love your aquascape change, it’s always interesting to have to move around and look at the tank from different angles to see everything. Not BS, haha....justified!! 😁 👍🏻👍🏻 And OMG poor Mochi!!!
I only a few snails in the refugium, I will move a few more down there, thanks for the suggestion!! I added the additional rock just a few days ago (after the diatom issue) so they are probably not related... yet. I am bracing myself to see if I would get a second wave of the diatom like you pointed out! The good news is that the CUC actually cleaned up this current diatom bloom very well -- it is almost spotless already!
That’s awesome about the CUC. It always amazes me how much of a noticeable difference they make - you obviously picked the right combination for the team!
What is your secret behind keeping multiple chromis? I have a 91 gallon tank with three anthias, two clowns, royal gramma, and a yellow tang. I love open water swimmers and don't want to add more anthias because let's be honest, they can get expensive. Every forum I read about chromis' say they will end up killing each other. Thank you! -Shawn
You should figure out how you are going to scape a big tank, what are you waiting for? All joking aside, the tank looks good. Have you considered a stronger refugium light?
Lol, the larger tank is just a matter of time! I wanted a tall rectangular tank but recently started feeling the cube once again... I thought about maybe using my extra UFO in the refugium but not sure if it is way overkill...
I've said it before and I'll say it again, a diamond watchman goby will permanently solve the issue of algae on your sand bed. You'd also be getting an unaggressive fish with great character at the same time.
almost made me think i was watching BRS for a second and it's pronounced GY-ER! like acre, or massacre. =P and how long did your DI resin last for btw? (approximate gallons?)
Too soon! =O I haven't changed the DI resin since I got the RO/DI unit, it lasted around one year before the TDS jumped to 1, hard to say how many gallons went through it though because sometimes I would forget that I left the unit running... in fact, this reminded me that I need to turn it off right now!
I’m about to reach the one year mark soon, going to keep an eye on the tds readings But how do you know which of the several components is the cause? Ie the carbon filter, or the ro membrane, or the di resin? Btw have you watched the bbc documentary blue planet 2, it is really awesome!
I still need to scrub my glass every week - every other week, usually a thin film green algae. Besides that though, I try to make sure the refugium has a healthy macro algae population to compete for nutrient (which I don't have right now), use good clean water (which I also did not have), and don't over do it with the feeding and light schedule.
I was debating if I should put the GFO reactor back, but wanted to see if the tank could come into balance naturally before I hook it up again; figure it'd be one less equipment to maintain if I can go without it.
I have plenty of hair algae and macro algae growing and my sump and 0 algae in my display I think it works great as a nutrient export and keeping my display algae free
My friend has a Dino outbreak and is using Red Sea nopox4. Should he stop using it and turn his phosphate reactor back on and do a 5 day black out and dose h202?
Hey I can't really suggest since I have no experience with nopox4... if that is suppose to help with the dino issue, I'd give it at least some time first before trying another solution!
Nopox could be fueling the dino issue since it is removing nutrients that other things could be using to out compete the dinos. Dinos are very misunderstood in the hobby.
Couple myths need to be addressed... 1) Refugium algae will NOT out compete the display tank. Think about it. You have a ton of surface area and very strong lights to grow algae in the display tank. A small refugium with lower powered lights will not win that battle. 2) Blackouts and hydrogen peroxide will NOT kill dinos. This has been proven. At least it is not a good way to fight them since it kills a lot of good things too. Check out Reef2Reef thread Dinos: Are you tired of battling? Hydrogen peroxide will kill coraline algae though. That is not what we want when battling dinos. Dinos are present because they are better at surviving low nutrients especially when phosphate is limited. 3) 0 phosphates is not a good thing unless you are feeding a ton and your tank is just that good at exporting the excess. You should be shooting for .03ppm unless you have dinos then shoot for .10ppm. Nitrates should be between 5-10ppm. Bacteria, algae and coral all depend on N and P to survive. If you limit these, cyano and dino have the upper hand. 4) Amazon is your friend. $10 toy microscope will ID what you have. No reason to not have one at that price. Hope that helps
Ryan Thompson the points about adding nutrients to defeat dinos is not correct. Hydrogen peroxide doesn't kill coralline, as I have used it. Also, check the persons tanks who started that thread you mentioned. His tanks looks horrible so I would never take advice from him.
3 day black out and H2O2 completely got rid of my dynos. Rock, power head and overflow still covered in coralline. My tank also has very little algae on the glass running a 12 hour light cycle and the refugium is covered in film algae I have to scrape off the acrylic. Get a good refugium light and it will keep the algae confined down below.
Hey Ryan, first let me thank you for taking the time to finish watching the video and to type out a thoughtful respond, that's pretty rare for RU-vid. ;-) 1) In the past I have all the macro and nasty algae growing in the refugium and the display was clean, so something was working back then with the same set up. I am hoping that with a more aggressive clean-up crew in the display to help control the algae, the refugium will have a chance to out compete the display tank again. 2) I will have to check out that R2R thread you recommended as I read so many successful threads and the method has personally worked for me. But I am open to the idea that it may have been one of the other things that I have done during that period. I did not have issue with H2O2 killing coraline algae though. 3) I agree with you! 4) Great tip on the microscope, I will be picking one up. ;-) Again, thank you Ryan for taking your time to share your knowledge, I really appreciate it!
Turtle's Reef What form of dinos did you "cure" with H2O2 and a blackout? Little FYI, you don't cure dinos. You simply take away the conditions that is causing them to bloom. Dinos are always present in our tanks. Just depends on if they have those conditions needed to bloom and sustain themselves. Dinos are some of the oldest forms of life. They survive when other things don't.
