I’ve watched this channel grow from like 2.2K to 54K in the course of a couple years. I can definitely agree with everyone else that your content is not only extremely underrated, but it’s also some of the most entertaining and interesting stuff I’ve watched in a while! Keep up the good work!
I actually find freewheeling more effective than a bell, as most people seem to have forgotten what that sound means. Some even seem to take offense when I try to be polite, using my bell; just turn around while still blocking the road with fists on hips looking scandalized like I just snapped my fingers at them or something.
Man this channel is highly underrated. The content is divine! Both entertaining and informative! I shall pray that the youtube Gods will bless this man for his good work!
@@roebbiej I try to spread the word about Luke as much as I can. His channel is essential viewing if your building a decent bike on a budget. He also has the courtesy to reply if you Email him.
@@2wheelsrbest327 exactly, there's no marketing bs in this channel. As a student, this hobby is pretty expensive for me. It would be great if everyone can get into cycling with lower price barrier.
Absolutely. It's my favourite cycling channel. Many of the others are "today we take a look at this £6500 bike supplied by our sponsors". OK great, but I'd be scared to ride a bike that cost £6500, let alone afford one. I was looking at buying used aluminium bikes until I found Luke's channel. Now I'm building a fully integrated, full carbon bike for under £1600.
I have a set of elite wheels on my winspace and can second pretty much everything you've outlined in the review! I had a nipple snap twice on the front wheel and elite sent me out new upgraded nipples and paid for the rebuild I was expecting a slammed door but communication was excellent throughout
excactly! I have Dati M5 hubs which are constructed in the same way (same manufacturer?). Had to change the bearings quite early since they developed play.
Bike shops probably will use a type of bearing puller that will expand and catch the edge of the inner race, then use a sliding hammer to pull the bearing out. The hard to remove rear bearing in the video may need to be removed this way. While you are at it, maybe upgrade to name brand bearings with better seals.
RE: your bead issue - I've experienced this before too. Try adding an additional layer or two or rim tape - this will likely reduced the shelf gap a tiny fraction and enable them to stay on
I'd just like to thank you for the Ali express addiction.. Handlebar, seat post, pedals, bibs... there is no end to it. I did get my wheels from Amazon, but you get full credit for the idea. Keep up the great content. Love the channel!!
Thank you Luke! Thanks to your tips I made a complete Chinese Gravel build from Rinasclta bike frames with Sensah groupset mixed with Zrace and Juin F1 brakes saving a lot of money. You gave me the confidence to make the big leap. Best cycling RU-vid Channel ever!!! I Love you man! ❤️
Love your channel and the fact that you test these Chinese products so we don't have to. So tired of the whole elitist attitude towards and in cycling. The only way we can make sure cycling is affordable to the most people is by supporting those companies who make quality products at a reasonable price. I have a set of Superteam carbon wheels and I love them. Had them for about three years now and they still look and ride really well and I will buy another set of them when these finally wear out. Thanks again for all you do and I look forward to your next vid.
I have a pair of Superteam wheels as well. 50mm. I’m really happy with them so far, but I do have to admit that they don’t get a ton of use right now. I’m a triathlete and between the kids at home and the wife’s work schedule I do most of my riding outside of races indoors.
The elitist attitude that you speak of is absolutely toxic. People who spend over-priced big brand parts don't like to see guys with chinese bikes overtake them at high speeds. Simply salty.
@@klaytonickinson Exactly, also domestically produced Chinese products have really shot up in quality in the last decade, that's not to say that absolute junk isn't made in China, because ofc it is, but you can get amazing quality stuff from China that certain people refuse to engage with in any way because of outdated stereotypes regarding the general quality of Chinese products.
A couple of ways to get the bearings out of the front. Move the small inner sleeve within the hub, and use a drift to gently tap the bearings out , or use a blind bearing puller.
MFW I'm too expensive for the posh-sounding British guy. 😢😢😢 Jokes aside: One love. Everyone enjoy their riding no matter who you ride (wait, what?) but definitely ride safe!
Ive purchased two wheelsets from Elite now. Both mountain bike wheelsets. Both with the Sapim CX Ray spoke upgrade. One had DT 240 hubs and the other Hope Pro 4 hubs. I actually did a review on MTBR and a unboxing video on my youtube account. I could never really find any reviews on them back in 2018 so its good to see someone else doing one. I have beat the hell out of the first set I ordered in 2018 and they are still going strong! not a single wobble, creak and I havent even needed to true them. I honestly cant believe how well they've held up for what I paid for them. I just made sure they were built on good quality hubs.
Bought a pair of ENT from Elite recently and did a review as well - super happy with the whole experience, value, shipment, and packaging, wheels are perfect and now they are on a pair of Hope RS4 hubs!
I also ride this ENT DISC wheel in 60 mm with cx-ray spokes and they are quiet amazing for the price. They have now 5120km, still true and stiff, no issue in particular but i ride clincher.The disc rub a bit on the brake caliper when i apply some power out of the saddle but it's okay. Stay safe on the bike ^^
yeeeeeesssss finally! got a set of elite aswell, super happy with it. but they arrived with two scratches from the transporttation on one spoke and the hub. but the aliexpress found a good solution for the problem. luke keep on going, awesome channel!
Luke, I’m glad that you have taken the opportunity to review these wheels. There is a definite lack of informed opinion on the web about Elite wheels. When I purchased a set it was a bit of blind faith but I will say that I couldn’t be happier with the experience. I mostly agree with everything that you have said, with a few notable exceptions. Also, Sukie is amazing and I would like to re-iterate for the folks out there listening that the customer service at Elite wheels on AliExpress is nothing short of first class. Wheels arrived well packaged with no damage at all. I paid a small amount for customs clearance. Delivery was exactly as promised. I ordered a centrelock disk set, 38 mm, new style logo in black. These wheels ran amazingly true right out of the box. I never checked the dishing so I can’t comment on that. The finish was excellent. The hubs are almost exactly the same as the pair on my Bontrager Aeolus Pro 3V, right down to the “hum” that the 6 pawls make in the 108 tooth engagement. Of course, the bearings are better on the Aeolus hubs but, even with the inexpensive bearings on the Elites, they spin freely for a very long time. It will be easy to replace with better bearings when it becomes necessary because the bearing sizes are standard. I believe someone else has commented that the hubs are a knockoff of a DT Swiss hub which I believe Bontrager is fond of using. I’m happy with the performance of these hubs so far. My experience with the rim/tire situation has been completely different. I wrapped them with a single layer of Stan’s 22 mm rim tape (they are 17mm internal) stretched appropriately, Stan’s valves, and then mounted them with Continental GP 5000 TL’S in a size 28, by hand - no tools at all. I seated the beads with a standard track pump and amazingly, they held air for weeks without any sealant. Letting the air out of the tires did not result in the bead unseating, ever. It must be pushed off to get it to let go. As I commented elsewhere in this thread, it could be possible that your tires were at fault rather than the rim. Or the particular combination that you have chosen. (And speaking of weight restrictions, the Aeolus Pro 3V TLR rims have no rider weight restriction, weigh about the same as the Elites, have a 25 mm internal width , and carry a lifetime warranty with a 2 year damage replacement. For a brand name rim that performs like they do, they are competitively priced.) I have no reservations recommending these wheels and will now have to order another set before the inevitable price increase caused by the exposure of this review.
@@goldenretriever6261 I haven't replaced the front bearings yet but I believe that this is correct. I'm pretty sure I saw a video along these lines and that's how it was done. I think they used a wooden block to avoid damaging the axle. I did have to replace the outer bearing in the cassette body recently.
@@goldenretriever6261 About 4 weeks. I ordered them on 11Nov2020 and received them on 11Dec2020. The customer service is very good. I just ordered a replacement hub cassette body and they sent it out pretty quickly.
I had a similar bead seating issue with a cheap set of Ali rims that I had. It was a 2 part issue. 1: the circumference was too small, (needed extra tape) 2: the “shelf” profile was completely flat. I moved to a real set of real tubeless rims (Velocity Aileron) and it has made my whole tubeless life 100% easier
Yeah this could well be the case, i'd honestly never dealt with anything like it before. Like I said, on the road they are fine, but was SUPER annoying when setting them up!
For removing those front bearings use a dynabolt (pick a size smaller than the inner diameter of the bearing) as an expander inside the bearing. Then use a punch (or piece of 5mm rod or bolt) against the dynabolt to drive the bearing out. This will ensure a linear force is applied to drive the bearing out without ruining the races.
Lateral shock of hammering on the inner race of a bearing will destroy them. This is why bearings should always be pressed in or hammered in only on the outer race. If you hammer out a bearing by hitting the inner race then it should be replaced
@@mentals555“If you hammer out a bearing by hitting the inner race then it should be replaced” There's no problem then if changing/replacing the cartridge bearings is what you're trying to do anyways… Removing the cartridge bearings is one issue, hopefully there'd be no issues with installing new cartridge bearings as well. 😬
I bought a set of Ali Express wheels for my gravel bike, Spent about $500, 1300g Novatec 4 Bearing rear hub with Pillar Wing20 (same spokes that Hunt Wheels use). They are 29mm wide and 30mm deep. I have about 700 miles on them with no issues. Spend a little more and get the Powerway or NovaTec hubs for better quality and more serviceability. So spend just a little more and you can get the components that you want for a custom build instead of the bulkproduced wheels. I did have to retension the wheelset when they arrived (they were at about 80kgf I retensioned them up to about 120kgf. I suggest that you do this any set of AliExpress wheels.
@@TraceVelo Yeah, I've been waiting for it since your Chinese carbon disc build. Have you seen China Cycling Joe's video on the Shanghai bike show? Apparently there is a cheap Chinese Di2 in the making..
Bought my WokeCycle wheels after seeing one of your videos and they've been incredible. They were even packaged better than other sets of wheels that I've bought from large brands.
Got mine today, they seem ok! Took around 4 weeks to arrive. They'll need grease under the end caps when theyre fitted tomorrow. Didnt have to pay import tax, came to around £290 delivered
Luke, I am ashamed to admit that I have viewed all of your productions multiple times. That said, keep them coming my good man!!! I absolutely love, love, love your cheeky videos!
Something you could do to fix your issues with keeping the tire seated when deflated is using more, or wider, or thicker tubeless tape! its something commonly done in mtb to ride lower psi for more grip! some people even use gorilla tape because its thick and makes a super tight seal between the rim and tire! might be worth the test for road bikes also? maybe a vid idea to see if it fixes any issues or not?
Disc road wheels setups rub, even in the pro Pelton, the riders gripe about disc/pad rubage. Another great review wit, humour and real world views and common sense.
Just by watching how organised is the video ( the exactly moment to put the advertising after the intro ) makes you want to watch the whole video omds this looks like a bike reviews tv show 🤣 this channel is so nice.
Really great cheap carbon wheeset review even though they don't appear to look cheap.Nice Cross section drawing and explanation of tubeless tyres and rims and how they work together.Great videos and they're always a pleasure to watch.Safe cycling.👍👌💯
The fact that you put a lot of effort on reviewing these wheels make me somehow want to buy it since it seems fairly safe and it looks really cool. The biggest wall within cycling is always the price point for this type of product and im happy to see there is a company putting effort to make it cheaper while making sure the product is safe as a main point.
I'm 94kg and have done about 3000kms on the same wheels (60mm variety) with no issues at all (bar water ingress on the rear hub). They're heavier than my Zipp 303s wheels for sure (45mm) but great for the training/daily bike. I won't go 60mm again as they're 1 (heavier) and 2 dodgy in strong crosswinds although they look bling so horses for courses.
13:28 bro bro bro you really made me happy, ive been always thinking that hearing ping ping noises from pumping up my tires means theres something wrong with my tire. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for always making these videos. highly appreciate it especially here in our country where cycling is considered a very expensive sport. your vids help us find good quality products for a fraction of the price of the premium ones. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!
Another great review! Fun to watch as always! I got a set of MTB Elite carbon wheels, with the 12K twill finish and they look amazing! Also had to wait a long time for them to make them, so anyone buying those be prepared to wait, but you will get them for sure! About the free hub noise, that for me is the #1 pro! I actually serviced the free hub before the 1st use, just to get rid of the factory grease, and put a very light suspension grease. They are now ear bleeding loud. Next time I'll put some shattered glass in for more noise.
Trace Velo notification, I see, I click, I like and then I watch while admiring my 9 year old set of Chinese 80mm carbon wheels that are still as true as the day I bought then in 2012.
you will usually need a bearing puller and a heatgun to warm the alloy hub around the bearing,if you cold pull a bearing out of an alloy hub you may stretch the aluminium and refit may not be so good in which case you may need some bearing lock,all depends on the tolerance from factory.
I bought the deepest wheels, 80mm, rim brakes. It took quite awhile to manufacture and deliver, and there were issues at the customs. But they look gorgeous, very expensive and make me go faster! Kudos to Sukie for the customer support too!
@@bradsolomon6542 For smaller packets, you pay the taxes directly at ali express. But for packets over $150 you have to go to the customs, declare the value, prove that it is the correct value you paid, and pay the import duties. And they charged me some extra import taxes. I paid around 200 euro at the customs. Bulgaria
I bought a pair of 50mm Chinese carbon fibre disk wheels from Winspace and am very happy. Chinese quality is good these days. Note that without a brake track the designers have so much more latitude to design the rims. Keep up the good work
For Schwalbes -- take the valve core adapter off the AirShot and screw it on right over the valve core while it is inserted. Then, keep your floor pump attached to the AirShot so that when you release the air and the tire fakes you out with the bead sound, the valve core is already in there, and you can start pumping up to beading pressure. Finally, when you pop the AirShot off you won't lose any pressure.
Great review- as always, I love your channel👌🏼 Re: getting the bearings out of your front hub. I'v recently serviced very similar hubs. The front looked like a real a conundrum... But. They came out very easily using a fairly long tube which fit inside the bearing quite tightly & very gently rocking the bearing side to side whilst pulling outwards just on the resistance of the rocking bar. To my suprise, they actually came out straight away.... While they were out, I cut notches in the inner sleeve, so that I could tap the bearings out next time. Hope this helps. All the best. Marc.
Another great video, I have some Zipp 404's and the hub/axle design looks very similar and the process to strip I would say is the same, the bearings are probably 6903's and there are plenty of high quality bearings available NTN, SKF etc at very reasonable prices, both Hambini and Zipp have videos on how to strip.
What a top guy! Luke delivers a wealth of knowledge in an informative easy to absorb way, definitely worth following and way way way more entertaining than some of the other channels out there. Leep at Lukie baby
FFS yardy o7😄😄😄 loving the depth of analysis and homework you've done for our benefit, thank you and a pleasure to watch with strong level of honesty and integrity, kudos 👏👏👏
I got my 88mm Elite-brand wheels on my backup bike for $400 from Amazon. Arrived in a few days, they’re pretty great. No complaints at all here save for the not-so-amazing stock rim brake pads. Had the same issue, though, I could NOT get these to inflate with a track pump despite setting up tubeless multiple times. As soon as I deflated, everything popped back out.
On servicing the front hubs, I think there is a tubular spacer bridging the two centre races. I've seen Hambini push this aside allowing you to then access the back of the opposite bearing and tap the bearing out using a drift of some sort (a pin punch from screwfix and the like). I'd advise resting the hub on some sort of cup shaped object so the force of your blows aren't dissipated. Alternatively, if you don't want to whack em out, have dig about on youtube. There are a few good vids on how to make DIY bearing pullers.
Ordered some after seeing your build video. Very pleased with them. I would echo all your comments except my delivery time was 1 month and no duty to pay 😀. I ordered a converter from Amazon so could use on quick release forks.
Either you catch the lip of the front bearing with a "chasse-goupille" of the wide diameter you can find and that still catches the inner lip, or go with a flat screwdriver and just hammer it out bits by bits while placing your tool across the lip so it doesn't come out sideways. For your back bearing place the hub on something solid so your hammering energy doesn't go wasted. Alternatively you can also hammer it out without the shaft but using the screw-drive or pin pusher. All should come out. One last trick would be to apply heat to heat-up the hub shell and let it expand and make it easier to push the back bearing out.
11:50 Tip to getting those front bearings out: Take a 8mm anchor bolt from the hardware store (this can be named a solid wall anchor bolt), tension it up (not to much) then give the bold some good smacks to get the bearing out.
I’ve been waiting for this since I first spotted them on your bike, I think the pros easily outweigh the cons so I think I’ll pull the trigger on them. Thanks
Wahayyyyy , here we are , the review we have all been waiting for. I plumped for the scribe wide+ 50 HDs in the end , still to take delivery but I did consider these and could not justify the chance of hurtling down a hill at 40mph on a set of wheels of undetermined quality. Thanks for your review , if budget is really top priority then they might be worth a punt but I think the takeaway message is, pay a bit more if you can but not Envy prices . Thanks Trace ... keep these reviews coming, love the presentation style.
You can get replacement bearings through the bearing company, you can order direct. The numbers on the seals tells you the size you need for replacements.
I had Elites recommended to me by a bike shop owner(in Aus) who uses the Marvels as his everyday wheels. Have exceeded all expectation, the hubs in particular are real standouts. Will be getting Drive wheelset on my next build, superb value for money with exceptional quality. Customer service was excellent in my experience too. 👍
@@THEMONSTER047 Yeah, its inexpensive after all. The hub seal is not very good, so water can get in. Set it up tubeless. I've gone on chunky gravel and doing small jumps on them offroad. To be fair, you are much better off buying a different wheelset for gravel, the internal rim width is only 17mm and I use it with a 35mm GravelKing SS+
I have been able to tackle more of my own bike repairs because of your videos and have the confidence to try building my own thanks to you!!! great video.
I have 2 pairs of elitewheels. Both rimbrake. One is 50mm slr2 with ceramic bearings. The other is a 38mm with bitex hubs and only weighs 1270 grams. Both wheels run perfectly
I have some elite wheels and they've been great for the past 2 years, need to replace the freehub now and just wanted to say this video has been super helpful for doing so. cheers.
Yes you can REMOVE a bearing by hitting or pushing the inside race. But it will be damaged. Do it only if you have a new bearing and a press tool that can push it in by pushing the outside race. Some threaded rod washers nuts and big sockets could be used to improvise a tool. You can also use a punch and hit the outside race but you have to go slow and move around to push it in evenly.
Thank you for that video. I own a set of 38mm slt disk and just order a 50mm BWA Front. I am really really happy with the wheels and experienced very good service and communication with the seller. Regarding to Yuan An : it is the main company ,and Elite wheels is a brand (or sub company) of that company
For the rear wheel, removing the drive side bearing. Insert the axle, reverse so more is sticking out the non drive side. Should help a little to get the stuck bearing out.
Brilliant review! I'm riding Elitewheels since 2019 for my "everyday setup" and got quite the same impressions as you. I have the SLR wheelset with ceramic bearings / rimbrake which was double the price as yours, but they are very performative for that pricepoint. My other wheelset is Durace and they can compete in speed, stiffness and brake performance (even when decending Pordoi Pass or Stilfers Joch, which is quite challenging for rimbrakes). Still, the hubs are difficult to service and not very reliable. My freehub broke in 2 pieces (I don't know why and luckily the cassette kept it together) and a view months later I broke the axis while servicing the hub. Elite is very helpful providing spareparts, but delivery takes really long. If I would buy this wheels again, I would opt for the dt swiss hubs, to make this easier and the wheels more reliable. But overall you get good value for the money.
Just had some of these delivered this week. Not set them up yet but just wanted to say, they came with tape and two spare spokes👍 also, didn't pay any tax on them👍
I love a loud hub... i ride along the beach "bike only" path on the sand and during busy weekends we get 10-15 head count herd group of wide-bodied raised voice black folks walking along the bikes only path and it's nice to have a loud hub to let them know i am coming so we can all traverse safely. Louder the better.
OK nice, thanks for the comment. Had someone else in the comments mention this too, so ill def give it a try when the bearings wear out. Bearings on the front tend to last MUCH longer in my experience, so hopefully won't be too soon 😂
@@TraceVelo When I saw your front hub bearing dilemma, it reminded me of how the bearings are fitted into my motorcycle wheels. The bearings can be replaced by pushing the centre tube to the side and then knocking out with a punch, which is fiddly, but doable. A bearing press really helps with refitting too. Good luck, even though I am retired from cycling these days, I love your videos.
Another great video. I have a set of these just waiting to be paired with my Velobuild R-099 frame that's being painted right now. Glad you didn't have many issues. Kind of pleased I kept it simple with 50mm clinchers as a beginner to all this. I ordered mine in 8th March and received them on 16th April, so delivery seems better now. Paid £292 with upgraded Pilar spokes and didn't pay any import duty. (I think because AliEx now have to add UK VAT).
Really good to see ytour channel doing well and growing as it is Luke. Your content is great. I bet you've got crap loads of people building budget Chinese carbon rides all over the place.
I bought a pair of 47mm disc wheels from Elite about a month before you. I similarly had about 12 week period from order placement to receipt in the UK though the majority of this did seem to be down to the shipment period rather than manufacturing. Few comments I have on them: - very good customer comms and service - upgraded the hubs to DT Swiss 350 and don't have the noise problem. Also makes servicing of and getting spares for the hubs easier. - paid around £550 with the upgrades (Inc Sapim CX Ray spokes) and customs charges. At this price they are incredible value and at least half the price of comparable branded wheels of similar spec. - I had the same tyre seating issues as you too with Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless tyres. I thought this might be a tyre issue but probably not. My LBS were able to sort it without any problems in the end. GP5000s, whilst renowned for being a tight fit, were an absolute no go before reverting to the Schwalbe tyres. Overall I've been really impressed with them and would definitely recommend them but would strongly suggest upgrading the hubs and spokes when ordering.
I too am awaiting my first set of Elite 50mm wheelset with DT-Swiss hub and Sepim CX Spokes in Dubai. Would appreciate your review/experience at this point after few months of usage. I am planning to fit Conti GP5000 clinchers on these. TIA.
@@paragp14573 don't even bother trying to fit GP5000 tyres if you are going for tubeless. It is impossible to get them on to these wheels. I tried it for hours but gave up
yuan an is actually the Elite Wheels. Hubs are made by another company called something like ferei and you can find the same hub by ztto, etc. Actually the weakest part of wheels are hubs. After 2.5 years of use of my Elite Wheels I had to change bearings just now. And no issues with decals, or anything else. They catch quite a bit of cross winds. And bearings used to be ceramic, made in Taiwan, not China. I had problem with rear hub and they responded and supported. Also, I have their gravel version and those are wicked! Mud, snow, typical English terrain and "gravel" roads, fields - Love those wheels! And I have the same noise hub - on gravel roads and trails this is so helpful as I freewheel approaching people, works as a bell! :) people give me the way :)
I have the same set but upgraded to the dt-swiss 350's. Well worth the upgrade as the hub is almost silent. I love the wheelset but I had the exact same issue getting the tire seated with tubeless. I ended up putting the sealant in through the valve and making a mess but got it done. They have been good ever since.
Would comparisons to things like the Vel 50 RL (£699 - 1610g) or the Prime RR-50 (£540 - 1635g) be more fair? Let's be honest, the people on Rovals and Zipps aren't buying Elites. The people on Primes, Vels and (maybe) Pacentis might.
I heat the hubs up with a paint stripping heat gun to get the bearings out of hubs, bearing usually drops out around about the point that residual grease and oil start to smoke
To push the second bearing out you need to push it all the way through the opposite side, opposite to the pawl or remove the pawl (with a special tool). The front ones you can just knock-out by slightly displacing the internal tube that holds them in place and push new ones in with a proper bearing press tool. I have several sets of Elite wheels, problems only occur at the rear hubs. All my sets have ceramic bearings (hybrid ones i.e. ceramic balls with steel races). The wheels are great after thousands of kilometers, some rear hub issues but nothing major, no complaints and excellent value. My advise for anyone considering a pair of carbon wheels from Elite: - Definitely go for them but customize them when ordering with DT Swiss (or Chris King or other hub) and Sapim CX Ray spokes. This way they will offer unbeatable value for money and fantastic performance.
I bet this Luke guy is gonna be recruited by GCN in a very near future. Love your videos! Bought these wheels some time ago, maybe same time like you, but I still haven't given them a go...
@@rodneynolan9435 Ohhhh that's right, I completely forgot how anti chinese they are, those sellouts xD yes, I'm a fan too but they became too corporate-y
There are a lot of bargians to be had with cheap hubs cost and weight savings... The downside is that they require regular servicing, grease packing and bearing replacement. Worth a video on the topic I think! It's not that hard :-) :-) Adding an ickle bit of grease (not oil) will quieten the spawl noise out too.
I had very similar wheels, but unbranded rims and hubs from ebay (the cheaper spokes). Weighed in at 1780. No issues with seating tubeless tyres.... But managed to pick them up for less than £200 Inc shipping.... That was a couple of years ago - sold them on a couple of months ago and upgraded to some Nexties.
The CSC wheels with straight pull huns I got from AEx for.my wife are spot on.. she's loved em, brake well and gub sounds sweet.. not too loud.. more like a cat humming.
Pretty standard hub arrangement front and rear. Only downside is you need an over axle press to put the bearings back in. Getting them out is very easy.
I am pretty sure that the rubbing of the disc out of the saddle has nothing to do with the wheels. Its just the carbon fork flexing. I experienced this on almost any road bike with hydraulic disc. The gap at the brake pads with hydros is just 0.2-0.3 mm each side. With mechanical discs you can " cheat" a bit by setting the gap a little wider but the principle stays the same.
