Thank you for the comment. Setting the attachment up is really simple. Once you have bolted the column onto the back of the lathe bed, you simply slide the milling head down the column from the top to the desired height for your current job.
Thank you for your speedy reply, I've actually fitted the milling attachment this afternoon. Apologies for asking another question, but how do I now attach the chuck to the milling column, in fact, how do I remove it from the lathe?
@@seasidegreyhounds3670 The chuck is threaded onto the headstock using a 14x1mm thread. The same thread is used on the milling spindle. The thread is a standard right hand. You can use the tommy bars that you would use for your chuck to hold the spindle still while the other to loosen the chuck off. Hope this helps!
I've just found your channel and enjoyed the first video on your modification. The screws holding the vertical column on my Unimat 3s are also pretty tight, so it could be that Emco cut the threads in the bed deliberately tight. I really like the concept of your modification, having experienced the same problems as you. Sadly, I don't have a milling machine to cut a keyway and I don't think that the cross slide travel on my Myford would make cutting the slot accurately very easy. Best wishes.
I quite agree with your point of view regarding a machine.....it is a machine per se and was designed to do a job, not as a museum collector piece item......if it lacks credibility in any aspect it should be modified to make it better......why tolerate bad design when a few tweaks can work wonders. I have a 1930 Colchester Bantam lathe, originally designed to run off of vertical belts from a line shaft, back in the "good 'ole days," but I fitted a countershaft and 1 HP motor to the back of the headstock and never looked back.
A better method is (And I know you would have thought of this) is to do the slot in the milling head and screw on a key stock or bar stock onto the round post without flattening it on that one side, as far as the milling head going up and down, it will track very accuratly as there is a longer slot that is lining it up vs a set screw that makes point contacts only. and again ,if you want to rotate the head, you won't be able to, and there's the rub.
Hello there, thanks for the comment. It is a mod that I made myself using my horizontal milling machine. If you want, please do email me through the 'About' section and I would be happy to discuss me doing a similar mod for you.
hello again !been after a milling machine got one ! but sadly no vertical head ..! then if and when i get my vertical head the distance from the bed to cutting head will be greatly reduced..! so then i will need a raiser block ! or make one have you seen the price of 100square x 300mm long ? £ telephone numbers ! one good thing going for centec millers is everything fits everytning !so its plunder on . visit the scrap yards ! and who knows ..i could stumble upon another centec,,!i can but dream ! enjoy the videos ,,, regards laurence
i think a setscrew is not a really precise and good solution, because after some days of usage its wiggling in the milled slot and so you loose the location anyway. Keep in mind 0,05 mm of play in the slot and you have 0,15 or 0,20 at the milling spindle. A key is in my opinion the much better solution. 😉
Gday Mark, new subscriber here! Have found your channel whilst looking for info on my new (!) unimat 3 lathe and mill. I’m not sure if you are a member of the youtube machinists forum on Facebook, but if not, jump on and give a heads-up about your channel, sure to be some new subscribers there too :-) I’ll be putting a first video of my emco up shortly, and will shout out to your channel as well! Stay well mate
