VERY WELL DONE. CLEAR, EASY TO UNDERSTAND DIRECTIONS BY SOME ONE WHO CLEARLY HAS DONE THIS AND MUCH MORE COMPLICATED PROCEDURES. I'LL LOOK FORWARD TO MORE BY THIS INDIVIDUAL.
You probably don't have this truck anymore, if you do here are some tips. 3:40 That is your EGR Valve. They usually go bad after a year or so, but it isn't a necessity. You can tell if its bad if it isnt blowing by putting your finger on it. It pretty much leads to the intake valve, next to the thermostat (black one is your intake, white one is your thermostat). It pretty much reburns exhaust gases or heat to improve engine performance. Make sure to plug other holes on the valve to avoid a vacuum leak. The thermostat valve connects to vacuum source. It's used to cool down thermostat faster for more accurate temps but isn't required. Plug other holes.
Glad I found this video. Planning on doing this with my 86 GMC K2500. Spent 2 days just trying to replace the fuel pump. Next is the fuel senders, or the driver side at least. What exactly is the orange connection on the firewall exactly? People on the square body groups on Facebook can't really give me a straight answer. Also that valve on the exhaust is to help it warm up faster. That valve just about cost me the engine when the thermostic valve on the intake manifold or thermostat housing kept vacuum to it when the engine was up to temperature.
So basically your vacuum advance is run to your card and manifold vacuum is run to your tranny valve, that's what I did but I have a standard so I plugged the manifold vacuum and it runs ok but in 4th gear and has no power and pops through the carb, I don't know if I did something wrong
2 questions - hopefully you or someone on here can answer them... 1) The second Transmission looking switch on the passenger side of the firewall next to the A/C box, what is it and where does it run to? 2) Did you finally remove the heat riser or alter the butterfly flap inside the riser in the passenger side of the exhaust (it is the question you "What is this")? All in all, great job on the video, I have been looking to clean up my '84 C10 engine and finally found some one that has done it! Did you happen to finally vent the tank line to somewhere else?
That switch on the passenger side is the switch for the windshield wipers I believe and I have it t'd off to the rear intake vac and Trans switch on my 84 C10
ok guys you have to be very careful if you block off all the vacuum lines in a 350 engine you will have to much pressure in the block and it will fuck up ypur head gaskets if its not vented correctly Larry B
Where did you find your trans lock vac at? I have an 81 c10 and I don’t have anything but what looks like a cut hose and nothing on the transmission to indicate where it would’ve gone
I have a question about the part in 1:15 i’m not far from getting my 83 c10 ready to see if it moves but i have a part missing which is to the left of the part in 1:15 . Do you know if that vacuum can just be blocked off or what would I need to connect there? Also thanks for this video genuinely helped remove a lot of worrying about what goes where.
When you deleted the EGR I know you plate it off. But on my chevy the little hose goes to a sensor looking valve. What did you do with it? Do I just leave it alone since the EGR isn't hooked up anymore?
I removed my canister as well. The only problem is that the line from tank going into canister , get fuel coming out during driving truck around for a few minutes. Wondering if this should be capped or replaced with something . Thanks
I'm thinking of putting the drive train from an 85 K 10 in a 64 dodge A100 and just stripping all the emissions everything off of the engine. Basically take it back to the 60's or at least emissions wise.
no, its an EFE valve. also known as a heat riser. its vacuum actuated and meant to warm up the engine quicker to burn more efficiently. you just need to make sure its in the OPEN position and cap it off.
Always wondered if taking off all that emissions gear would make the car reek of fuel after driving it? Does it also affect how warm the engine runs? I thought it might since of all the recirculation of the hot exhaust gases & vapor.
Remove it all. It’s to only burn any fuel that doesn’t get used. And then air is pumped into the catalytic converter to finish up the burn. Throw away that carburetor and update to an edlebrock or a Holley. Take the catalytic converters off also. It’s like uncorking it’s to breathe better
@@DominiAeternum I’ve always called them quadrajunk. These late model Rochesters aren’t any good without all the smog crap. So either remove the intake and all the exhaust features for the smog or leave it to have a air starved engine. I’m removing all of mine to down to the exhaust. Stripping the whole engine of the crap to open it up.
Question: Where does that wire plugs into?, the green wire connected behind the brake booster which you touched / pull with your hand. I have the same connector but no wire, just hangs in there. Thanks
Hello nice mod.. But you either don't live where they require a emission test or you don't plan on driving this rig on the street. If you remove any emission equipment from these 80's chevys they don't pass smog
@@baynmods hey bro... im watching your video and trying to pay attention...I need a little more info on how yu got all them vacuum hoses removed... please help before I mess some up...
@@baynmods I didn't understand the whole process of how yu are getting rid of all those vac lines... is there a better way for me to contact yu...I just need help cuz my 350 crate motor is running like ish and can't nobody identify the problem...
Those are not fuel lines. It's a gas tank vent. One you need to keep. Or you can pull your bed off and run a vent line from the tanks as you wish and rip out the hard lines. The canister is 1980's emissions garbage and you can toss it.