Re Cliff Stamp. The objective isn't to dull the knife, so much as it is for removing the stressed steel of the cutting edge. Cliff explains why working a knife until it gets a burr, especially a heavy burr, bends the metal underneath the cutting edge, ultimately the cutting edge itself, and although it might be sharp, is compromised by that bending, (Like breaking a coat hanger by bending it back and forth. Stefan Wolf says the same thing, but with his accent, it sounds like distressing the steel, , , ,he really says DE-stressing the steal.
Haha. I mentioned this in my video, because I saw many people dull a sharp knife on Atoma or coarse stone first. Then cut paper to prove that the knife is dull. Then start sharpening. In the end, cut paper again to test the sharpness.
@@tailibaba yes, thank you for the response. I have seen that also. what do you think about removing the stressed metal ? Or doesn't it make a difference ? (I seem to have less trouble if I remove the old edge)
@@thomasgronek6469 I would say to dull a sharp knife on coarse stone or atoma, or to do the same for a used dull knife, that makes the sharpening work easier. Even the edge can't cut paper, but its profile has been re-created. The most difficult way is just directly sharpen a used dull knife. Because in such way, the dull knife's edge is never even.
@@tailibaba ok, you don't know what is that treatment? i put mineral oil on my board, but the very first layer of wood absorb some water(very little bit) i guess you have bee wax on the mixture?
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