If you hate Creality so bad, sell your printer and buy something different. From a design perspective and business model, using universal harnesses and connectors makes sense. It's cheaper and more cost effective to manufacture. Creality is not responsible for unqualified end users who don't have the skill set to understand or install parts. Creality should be applauded for covering tons of "defective" parts that are customer induced from doing modifications.
I agree with you on that, they are very generous in replacing parts, even when it’s not their fault when things broke. I don’t hate creality, just providing my commentary on their design choices, take it or leave it. My main issue is with their decision to include “short plugs” that if plugged into something *will* destroy or damage your printer mainboard. Since they are covering the cost of repairs in many cases, it makes business sense for them to employ poka-yoke principals, to save the end user frustration and to increase their profit margin. You’ll notice, I did not install anything incorrectly or damage my printer because I have the expertise to understand and install things correctly. However, that does not mean anyone with less experience than me is dumb if they make a mistake. Engineering something so it is harder to make mistakes with it is a sign of a good and safe design. For example, you can’t plug a USB cable in backwards. Older models have keying features, usbC has a mirrored design so orientation doesn’t really matter. Those are good design practices. Letting someone plug something in that fried their printer when they could have just as easily terminated those wires with an insulated plug is negligent.
Been using the Sprite for about 2 weeks and really been enjoying it. Also definitely not going to be installing any Nactua fans due to the low air flow efficiency. But I would definitely love to see someone come up with somewhat of a simplistic LED light attachment.
what a beautifull video, you are so chill and relax, and at the same time you are talking from things that are curieus and smart(i am from argentina my english is bad so if you see an ortographic error, dont kill me)
Is this intended as a replacement for the S1 only or is it marketed as an upgrade for the majority of Creality machines? or are Creality ambiguous about this?
Its supposed to be installed on other machines. The cable they sent with it is supposed to work with most 3D printers on the market. I keep saying "suppopsed to" because this is creality we are talking about here :P
Good old Creality, snatching defeat from the jaws of victory. Once the parts fan header fell off the breakout board and took the pads with it right before the thermistor wires snapped I just sent it back to them. Just looking at the board is a great insight into how the magic at Creality happens, save space with smaller connectors, then make it totally redundant with the power connection but don't bother to go back to fix what are now multiple points of failure. 80N of raw retracting horsepower sadly was only enough to get an Ender 3 into the air, but not keep it there. I believe in you Creality!
Pls do more mods, I just got 2pro for secondary printer and ordered a Sprite for my 3pro, wouldn’t bother doing this stuff to the 2pro but it’s awesome to watch! Subscribed
One interesting note about the heater connector. When mine showed up, the red wire was not plugged in to the board. It was left loose with a tag that said "Please insert it in to the adapter board before using". I assume this is to prevent the stress on the red heater cables/connector that you're mentioning in the video. It LOOKS like yours had the same tag on the wires, but it already came plugged in from the factory, which is definitely weird. More of that fine Creality QC, I'm sure! Haha
Put the all metal hot end on my ender 3 s1 today. Back to printing nicely again. I had been doing a lot of ABS lately and I think that lining may of melted a bit on the old hot end.
Crimping the ferrule ends is definitely essential! I didn't crimp the ferrule ends and the plastic parts holding the wires to the mainboard completely melted on my Ender 3. It completely fried it. Do you have any recommendations for a new mainboard? Thank you, and great video as always!
I don't know what will fit in there. I do like BTT boards. A ton of ppl say you don't need to crimp ferrules, and say "oh it'll be fine". Fine and right are not the same thing!
Hello. the manufacturer said that it cannot be installed on this printer due to the fact that there is no firmware for such a printer. how did you get it to work? 😮Or is there no need for a special patch? thanks for the answer!❤
No idea what they mean. If it fits it works! However, there is an issue with the Ender 2 where I think you can’t flash firmware into it due to some dumb choices they made for the Mainboard design. Worst case you will need to put a new Mainboard in it to unlock all the features, but for me this works well enough
Wow, 94 comments and not one mention that the sprite extruder you installed is not at all compatible with the Ender 2 printer. You probably should include some commentary like " you will need to make all these mods and you will have extra wires" if you try to fabricobble this extruder with the ender 2. Surely, that would be a more scientific approach?
Nice. I have the same Sprite Pro in the box as a spare part, you are giving me nice ideas. Btw I would like to see ABL on that small Ender so if you get a chance, I know you have CR Touch on S1. cheers :)
hello. I also installed sprite extruder pro on my ender 2 pro. But I have a problem. Due to the new extruder, the printing area has shifted to the right by about 3 cm. I thought it was the end caps of the X axis, but after printing the mount, the offset remained about 1 cm from the center. Tell me, how did you fix this problem?
I think you can cut off a bit of the aluminum off the left side of the hotend plate. It has a piece sticking out for some reason, maybe to shift the zeroing trigger further to the left for compatibility with some other machine.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for the reply. After reserching this problem, I was able to fix it without mechanical intervention in the design of the extruder. I had to print out a new X-axis end cap mount with an increased actuation distance, after which I set the nozzle offset along the x axis by 10 mm , and along the y axis -5mm in the cura settings. After that, the printer started printing as before. without offsets of centre
Added one to my ender 3 pro, it's working great, had to adjust y limit switch 10mm closer and reduce x bed size by 8mm , due to the nozzle being out of bounds.
Yeah, I'm missing an inch of the already small bed. I can get most of that back by just sendinf an X-offset update in gcode but I'm lazy. The rest can probably be gained back by moving the x-axis limit switch further to the left.
I just bought the same Sprite Pro kit today for $75. Couldn't pass up such a good price on it so I guess I'll be doing this mod soon, myself. I also have a CR Touch that I picked up for $21 so I might as well throw it on for fun. My printer has the 4.2.3 mainboard so I'll have to check on the extruder wires to see if mine are the same as yours. Can you provide any info on the wiring you ended up with for the extruder, just in case I need to do the same? Thanks for all of the hard work!
www.th3dstudio.com/product/ender-2-pro-stepper-motor-adapter-cable-4-pack/ You might find these handy. If you want to make your own, basically they are all in sequence, left to right. If the motor turns backwards like mine did, just reverse the order of the wires, or flip the plug 180 degrees
@@NathanBuildsRobots thank you for that! Which pin is the extra ground wire? I can't tell from those pics, unfortunately. I was thinking i would probably shorten the wires and re-crimp the pins for the connectors, then I'd just take the extra ground wire and ground it in the same spot as the common ground.
Thanks for the review. Also I don't mind not having abl and especially for such a small bed. I usually only probe my bed when needed which isn't often. Otherwise it's easier once it's tuned but adds more weight if you like to print fast.
If you're putting a stepper motor on your hotend you might argue that the BL-touch wont make that big of a difference! But I agree, I don't think it's necessary on a bed this small. Unless you plan on swapping out different bed types.
@@NathanBuildsRobots every gram counts when you're trying to go faster with accuracy. I was looking at the sprite but may still go with the Sherpa mini instead.
Perfect work, thank you very much your job. Could you send me the correct e - motor pin sequence. Because on the mainbord colors Black-Green and Blue - Red VS Black - Red and Orange - Blue on the extruder. My extruder try moves up/down in the same time. Thanks in advance
Hello i can't wait, and i tested the variant. The correct wired sequence is From Ender 2 Pro motherboard - to Sprite Pro motherboard wired colors: Blue - Black / Green - Red / Red - Yellow / Black - Blue.
I just saw in your video that you got the black sheep mainboard like me. v2.4. s4.170 you can't find any documentation about this so no bl touch or klipper. Just left change it for another. Very good video
Very interesting! I was planning on keeping it stock, but now I don't have a choice! I almost never update firmware on my machines anyways, so it is not that big a deal to me. But could be very annoying for others.
yeah ferrule ends....go nathan, since they used ribbon cable they were stuck but could have used the extra wires for extra current capacity. but proper purchasing of ribbon and separate high current wiring would have been nice
The only other way to reverse the extruder direction in marlin is recompiling the firmware with it set reversed. God I don't miss the days before klipper.
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They might use those "Shorted cables" to transfer higher current for another model.
That is possible, but not likely. You would need 4+ and 4- to go to the boater cartridge to do that. The negative line is 4 wires split into 2x heater, 2x shorted. The positive is 4 wires split into 2x heater, 1x heatsink fan, 1x part cooling fan. So they would need to do something about the fan cables. This is typical of Creality. They get something done and move to mass production ASAP, instead of spending more time optimizing the design.
Hopefully, your little fella will hold with that added weight on his one little arm :) but overall really looks nice. I have S1 so i just bought the full metal hotend, downloaded mriscoc and put my max temp up via gcode. so far so good but i m always scared of any kind of big improvements :D so this is probably the last thing i done.. maybe ill make some LED strip light around :D
I'm definitely interested in what you'll do with it. Seeing it running clipper could be interesting. Or maybe an enclosure for real high temp printing? 🤔
@@AreanApple I think it does. Someone spotted it in the video and left a comment Ernesto Galban: I just saw in your video that you got the black sheep mainboard like me. v2.4. s4.170 you can't find any documentation about this so no bl touch or klipper. Just left change it for another. Very good video
Morning, Nathan. In ten hours or so I’m going to see if I can install my Sprite Pro on my BIQU Hurakan. I’m going to be using your video as a guide. I’m doing this because the original hot end on my printer is a pos. The all-metal extruder is also a pos. I bought a CR-Touch for the Sprite. The Manta M4P has BIQU’s Micro-Probe plugged into a BLTouch port on the board. Of course the Manta board isn’t a Creality product. But you did say this Sprite could go on any printer. That’s why I bought it a few months ago. Anyways, I wanted you to know because I’m hoping you can help me edit the generic config file for the Manta to accommodate the Sprite’s e-steps, which are 424-something. I’m going to connect with you on Discord in case you’re willing to assist me. I will compensate you if you do that. And the Sprite ends up working as advertised in the Hurakan-Manta board.
ngl i was somewhat wondering between this to kingroon kp3s this video looks very damning on the actual build quality and design of an ender 2 it's always nice to get people living with a printer instead of just reviewing it, give it more true to live review i guess
@@NathanBuildsRobots durability and reliability doesn't seem so though, what do you think? because if with all the upgrade it's gonna cost 500$ anyway, may as well buy something like ratrig mini
I don't understand the draw for watercooling. Seems like a vanity project, unless you plan on using a chiller to go sub ambient, or in a heated enclosure.
@@NathanBuildsRobots it definitely is mostly vanity, but if for some reason you were to get a crazy hot heating block that for whatever reason still fit the stock extruder, then it could work I guess. I got it because it looked funny. It is noticeably quieter, but I'm sure you can achieve that with noctuas and resistors. If you're going for absurdity however, I believe it's a must.
i just got the creality metal extruder feeder parts today with the blue capricorn tube and i just found a video with a little bit better extruder and now this. direct fucking extrusion on the tiny e2p. when i searched over the web not more than 6 months ago nothing. in reddit searching and asking nothing. ARGH! 🤬 great vid. this tiny printer can get such useful mods and it is so underrated and ignored
This has nothing to do with actually installing the ribbon cables. Thanks for the helpful warning. But randomly sperging about circuit paths for 15 minutes is dumb. I just want to know if this thing will work with the Ender 5 Pro because boden tube setups are awful.
Yeah, the "standard" that they came up with for the 24 pin sprite interface is awful. Just seems like they randomly assigned pins, and despite having enough conductors, they merged heater cartridge power with fan power... Real sloppy.
Good day, great video. Is it possible for someone to provide a wiring diagram of the stepper motor 5 pin to 4 pin. I will be very grateful if someone does, thanks in advance :) .
it wouldnt fry your motherboard the creality boards use straight hot on the fan plug thats not controlled and only the mosfet would blow if you plugged it into the control one you know this though so this is obviously malicious content
Thz ,You probably save me about 6000 "wtf's" This sht is gettn on my nerves.. After gobs of time and money replacing bout everything on my CR-10 Mini. And thought is was finally finished . It decides to in the middle of a print.to do a full speed retract and doesnt stop. It rips the filament right out of the hot end and keeps retracting. and wont stop. Have to shut down the pos at that point. Does it on every Print now . WTF? BTT SKR mini v3 nothing but troubles. Latest ,The USB connector falls right off the mother board. ! 1/16 mm bit of solder on the POS.
You can get the Creality E-Fit extruder for $57. It’s worth looking at as an alternative to that ugly Sprite abomination. But you’ll need to design and print a bottom end for it to install some better hot ends, I think.
hi man nice job on the upgrading i also want to upgrade but there is one thing that i didnt understand with the 5 pins connector to 4 pins can you exsplain me witch wire you connect to where and i would be happy to have your email or some way to speck with you i will appricate it very much
