Your videos are cool but you should first learn/study about what you do and recommend on your videos, because I’ve seen quiet some wrong and cringe things from your videos
This is why NBR is my best educational channel for 3D printing... I'm a newbie that like to understand the details about thermodynamics, mechanics and physics, because those details are very important. Not just "do this and you will resolve your problems". Thanks
I agree. I was watching other channels, but they didn't teach well. This guy explains things for the average joe while doing challenging work. That's my learning style.
You should try the Rat Rig V-Minion. It shows that a cantilevered x can be reasonably rigid if you use wide-enough extrusions and a good-sized linear rail on the z. Not as stiff as dual z rails, but stiff enough. Especially when used with a NEMA14 36mm pancake based extruder.
Okay I'm assuming this was for humors sake but if anyone is watching for actual advice, with thermal paste less is more. You want a minimal thin layer, not a giant messy glob.
That may be true in computer hardware, but with this stuff any excess will be displaced by the significantly huge clamping load. An M6 thread tightened to 1.5 N*m equates to 200 kgf or 500lbf A typical cpu heatsink retainer only applies about 10 lbf
@@NathanBuildsRobots That's valid reasoning, but I still think it was an excessive amount, compared to for reference, slices own boron nitrate installation video. I had some other thoughts on the video, please don't take them as argumentative or critcisim, just a different perspective and possibilites from my own limited experience printing. I enjoyed the video and really like your presentation style. When it comes to scraping, I have two alternate possible reasons. I think the canteliever design is fine for small, light toolheads, but the sprite added a significant amount of weight and moving mass to the gantry. The effect of that mass is of course greater the closer it is to the end of the canteliever. My stock ender 2 pro has zero problems with scraping or flexing on the canteliever X, and I believe that is mostly to do with both perfectly adjusted v wheels and keeping the toolhead light. The sprite is really on the havier end, even compared to other direct drive options like a printed sherpa mini or saiflin extruder with a pancake motor. Another thing to look at that I didn't see you mention in the video is tuning flow. Most of the time if I'm expeceriencing scraping of any kind, if it's not a mechanical issue like misaligned axes, poor bed leveling, etc, it is pretty much always extrusion multiplier aka flow rate %. You didn't mention tuning flow. You should not only tune your esteps for the new sprite extruder (which I asssume you did) but also tune flow per filament and especially now that you have modified your flow characteristics with the CHT and UHF nut. If you have too much flow you will experience scraping. Another thought is the cooling, I know you said you were going to modify the duct to be properly aimed at the lower nozzle. I would suggest also looking into trihorn or any other tyle of duct that cools from multiple angles. The faster and hotter your printing the more helpful it is to have more coverage with your cooling. Not mentioned in the video but I think important to do when you make changes like this, is a PID tune for your heater. You can do this in marlin with pronterface or even just by putting the right commands in a gcode file on the SD card. This ensures you're heater is getting to and keeping consistant temperature throughout the print. A silicolne sock would help too, one possibility is cutting down both a rapido and sprite sock to properly cover both parts of the heater/nozzle. I did something similar on my CHC PRO hotend that I also put the rapido UHF on. I'm eager to see your experience with the Tronxy Crux 1, on paper I think it's one of the best desgined printers in the cheap canteliever segment, but I have no first hand experience with one yet.
@polurazonituc It spat those out on the first print. Little white chunks in there. On 0.4mm nozzles that can be very annoying, but 1.2mm nozzle just passes it no problem
@@caramelzappa Thanks, you have a lot of good points. My mods are the junk food of 3D printer mods. Just slapping things on and pressing go. I'm good with the mechanical stuff, but anything in firmware or tuning takes me ages to figure out - so more often than not I just leave the stock firmware and tuning. yeah the duct coming from multiple angles would be good. On the green one, the previous layers are still tacky. If you check out my other CHT video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CO3-sPOmD2k.html), I have a better cooling fan design on-hand. I should put that on for the 100mm^3 test, or use a much larger model with way longer layer times, and an external fan, or whole layer fan coming from behind. I actually modeled something for that! Might try it in a future video. I didn't re-level the bed. With the extra weight, the bed should probably be tilted a little bit so its lower on the right. Would also like to try the KP3 Pro , but Kingroon said they want me to review their PEX sheet first.
@@caramelzappa Also, yeah, it was excessive. There was a little plug of dried material at the end, a nozzle clog if you will. So I was just trying to not let it go to waste! Probably would have used about 1/4 as much.
Those nozzle extensions really need some insulation. I actually saturated my 50 W heater at 263 C (target 270 C) and ~60 mm^3/s because it was losing so much heat from the extension.
As always a brilliant video, this is exactly the sort of upgrade I am looking to do. If anything faster prints convince others of 3D printing being something accessible. Also larger layer lines give functional prints
Yes, nobody will wait around at a store or market for you to print something for them in 5 hrs, but if you can do it in 10 minutes, that's going to be huge. Online orders and stuff are still fine with current speed printing, because it usually takes longer to ship them, but some kind of same-day on-demand service would still be pretty unique. Just like ordering dominos or doordash.
Another thing that determines the speed of heat transfer is temperature difference, bigger difference bigger speed. Therefore, without any upgrades just raise the hotend temperature. The downside is that because of uneven heating your "skin" of the filament could be burning before the inside is fully melted
Hey great informative video as always. I own a tronxy crux 1, it's a very nice machine especially the metal wheels that makes it very robust and reliable. I can't wait to see your review and ideas of updates.
It looks like the Crux fixed several of my complaints about the Ender 2 Pro. We will see if it survives judgment day! I definitely want to update the extruder. I kind of hate titan extruders. They are really great, reliable, solid extruders. But they crap out above 12 mm^3/s in my experience. I NEED MORE SPEED!!! Fortunately I have a Bondtech LGX Mini laying around that needs a host.
I love this! Time to do this on my printer that doesn't work yet. I don't know this printer board, but you may need to flash a boot loader to the printer. Its not that usual for that to be needed anymore.
@@NathanBuildsRobots probably silicone or mineral oil, do not eat it, but it should be fine unless you're allergic (silicone oil is used as a lube for sexual intercourse). the silicone grease may melt the silicone sock/make it sticky though, but that's not a big issue.
On stock boards you have to connect via ISP port with an Atmel programmer. Flash the bootloader on the controller, and after that, you can flash your firmware on it via a USB cable.
Thanks! Any thoughts on doing a 1-armed DIY printer running klipper? I have some drawings on how to make this thing a lot stronger, by having 2 arms, but placing them both on the left side. There are some pretty nice and compact ways of doing it.
@@Rolohaun I just watched the modbot video. Looks like a solid printer. Not a huge fan of the external electronics box. They need someone to work on the packaging!
I feel like I haven’t heard any of your thoughts, comments, and information from any of the other people presenting their 3D printing experiences. Your views and knowledge are very appreciated.
Yes, my background is a little different. I'm not really a "maker", more like a professional engineer with a lot to say about the state of 3d printing 🙂
I thought so too, but CNC Kitchen did a pretty good video on topic. I watched it after making this video, so I added a reference to it in the video description.
I really don't understand why it's complicated? If you bought a wonderful paste, then you have the opportunity to buy a normal volcano block. For better heat transfer to the nozzle, we must remove the air barrier. Any paste for the processor is suitable for this. You also need to apply the paste on the throat at the junction with the radiator. Once again I want to say that any thermal paste and any heating unit like volcano will do. You will get a fairly large flow of plastic and therefore a high print speed. I would pay attention to the extruder mechanism for stable printing with any filaments. Good luck
No. You can't use any thermal paste. The stuff for pc parts are rated for around 100c. Here we print at up to 300c. Three times the limit. You don't fuck around with limits.
I picked up an Ender 2 Pro this weekend. I'm considering picking up a Sprite Pro to put on it. I have an S1 Pro and I like the Sprite on that. I'd be interested to see a video of you installing klipper or some other firmware on it, so that we can see those higher temps.
Some other channels have shown the application of Boron Nitride Paste to every union in the hot-end, this should not be done under any circumstances, manufacturers make their throats from low conductivity metals to stop heatcreep so the last thing you need to do is increase that conductivity between the block and the throat, personally I dont use it at all!
The Copperhead heatbreak uses a copper upper and lower portion joined by a insulating stainless steel tube. The idea is it essentially turns the lower part of the heatbreak into a part of the nozzle. The difference in heat transfer is marginal. I think what this cht is doing makes a whole lot of sense, because it's moving the "impinging" area from the nozzle taper at the end of the nozzle, up to the top of the nozzle. The positron does a similar thing with their 90 degree angle heater block. This way, the rest of the nozzle is just mixing the filament up to give it a nice uniform consistency by the time it exits.
@@NathanBuildsRobots The video I saw of Boron paste being used everywhere was a stock Micro Swiss hot-end with it applied to the nozzle thread and both ends of the heatbreak, I won't mention who it was but he should have known better, I was absolutely gobsmacked and thought he would have taken the video down after it was pointed out by myself and half a dozen other people but no, the video is still there to this day, I have a CHT nozzle that I intended to use with my Copperhead but haven't got around to using it as yet, pure laziness on my part!
@@pmcquay1 @ᗩᑎᗪᖇEᗯ ᕼᗩYEᔕ Yes, but on the cold side of the hotend, you want to lower the thermal resistance as much as possible, including use of thermal compound, so it immediately dissipate any heat that makes it through the heatbreak. The optimal resistance for all components is 0, with the exception of the heatbreak, whose optimal resistance is infinity. I was working on a thermal model of the hotend system earlier this year. I want to make a online simulator that shows the effect of increasing/decreasing thermal resistance at different locations on the hotend. Things get complicated when you look at dynamic response of these thermal systems, which accounts for the thermal mass of each item, and the on/off cycle of the extruder and heater cartridge.
Nathan what do you think about combining an S1 with Klipper firmware/input shaping (via 2-step Creality Sonic Pad), CHT nozzle & nuts (as Stefan on CNC kitchen did), and upping the print speed to max? great vid as always. Thanks again for designing that wicked fan shroud - I've got it on my S1 and did similar fan mods to you too (albeit with buck converters rather than zenner diodes or resistors). Also have the all metal hotend from creality loving my heavily modified, silent S1 with Octoprint. Still to be done: enclosure and klipper/CHT nozzle so I can print high speed and/or high temp technical materials like the PA6-CF I bought a few weeks back. I'd love to install linear rails for the X axis as the gantry has so much play that no amount of nut tightening resolves, but I'll also have to buy new 2020 extrusion to replace the X-axis as creality brilliantly only got extrusion that is open on top/bottom rather than all 4 sides plan is to eventually 3D print a 3D printer (structure)
I don't like klipper all that much. With how many machines I have, and always switching them around, I prefer the old-school workflow. Its annoying to browse through 12 printers on your local network compared to pointing at a printer and inserting an SD card. But I'm not "most people", and I think most people will prefer to have 1-3 printers set up on their network, and printing away. CHT can't do CF reinforced. The flow splitting features are pretty delicate and would probably get worn down pretty quick. They are working on a Tool Steel version. Should be pretty exciting. I imagine they are going to have to use Electric Discharge Machining or metal 3D printing to realize the geometry, since it's hard to drill small holes in tool steel, because it's so hard. Plus they have to do their own testing and quality assurance. I think they are taking their time to get it right. On this machine, I had issues with the printhead plate barely having enough adjustability to get it tight. So I think they didn't design enough range into this thing to reliable snug things up... Thanks Creality! Best bet would be to get another carriage or maybe loosen the bolts for the 2 top wheels, and retighten them while pushing down to lock them in at the narrow end of things.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for the reply I'm planning for klipper+cht for high speed PLA prints only. TPU will still be regular speed for material property reasons. The enclosure + all metal hotend + hardened steel nozzles are for PA6-CF and PC, probably at only slightly higher speed than usual depending on what I can get away with and if klipper is any help The S1 is an amazing printer and with a few upgrades is becoming one of the most capable printers on the midrange market. I only paid £220 taxes in here in the UK, and probably £100 in purchased upgrades. Yes octoprint isn't for everyone but I like the spaghetti detection ai plugin, octolapse photography, live previews, and the option of not having to incessantly plug and unplug the sd card between multiple devices.
About the firmware, I've been flashing my ender 3 that came with a weird GD32 MCU compared to the usual STM32 MCU. All i have to do is instead of writing firmwarexxx to the bin file, i renamed it to GDFxxx. Works for me and i honestly don't see any problem.
You removed your vid before i got to finish watching it this morning. Thought my WiFi went out. Thank goodness I have another ender 2 pro to try this on. Gotta check to see if i can still purchase your board. Been waiting for this video. I noticed you and CHEP have used this printer in recent videos. I like it. Thanks
Dude, WHY does everyone use SO MUCH paste?!? It's simply not necessary. I see all these youtubers doing this and if you harken back from the computer building days you'll know you're just trying to fill in gaps - microscopic gaps - in the surfaces of your two items. Too much is actually no bueno although since, in the case of 3d printer nozzles, you're screwing things together I guess it matters a little less but yeah. Save yourself a messy cleanup. Just use enough to coat the threads ;)
You're right, i did some tests on stock bowden setup on the V2. It's not too bad! www.nathanbuildsrobots.com/testing/ender3v2 However,I never liked the print quality I get out of bowden setups above 8 mm³/s. And I'm too lazy to set up linear advance
I am well aware that printing a speed benchy and phat layers are very different types of flow however keep in mind that the fastest printers in the world are bowden. Minus Vez3d but he also doesn't have the world's fastest benchy. He's slowing himself down dragging along all that weight. I think for absolutely consistency the shorter the distance between the drive rollers and the nozzle the better but even then a well (tuned) printer outperforms everything else.
@@Leviathan3DPrinting all good points. My approach to speed is to put a monster extruder/ hotend on a basic printer. This makes my printer very fast in terms of filament feed rate, but no improvement in the print speed in terms of the speed that the print head is moving. I want to do a deep-dive on this topic, but I feel like I need at least one real speed printer, with 250+ mm/s motion system and input shaping.
We've time I try to flash firmware it takes me 20 hrs. I'm not too good at that stuff. I don't know how Chris's basement can make hour long firmware tutorial videos without throwing his printer off a bridge halfway through. I think I'm just going to swap this hotend over to my Ender 3 Pro, which should already have 300C unlocked in the firmware.
This one was a 1.2mm nozzle with 3mm width, 1.2mm layer height, vase mode with 3 bottom layers. I set the max volumetric flow rate to 25mm^3/s in the "filament" tab of PrusaSlicer, then increased the print speed multiplier on the 3D printer screen to increase it to 50mm^3/s, 75mm^3/s, etc.
I currently have an ender 3 but I can never really get the non z screw side of the arm tight enough. So I would like to buy an ender 2 however I mostly print functional stuff with asa and my preferred bed temp for that is 100°C and I believe this tops out at 80°c any chance you can fix that with a firmware update? Also love the content!
As designed the Ender 3 is overconstrained. A proper design would allow left/right float on the right side z axis rail. There is a trick to get it to work perfectly, which i do on all of the printers that i assemble. You need to loosen both plates from the x gantry, then get the left and right wheel groups right, then retighten the x gantry extrusion onto the plates. It's a complicated procedure. Creality either doesn't understand the concepts, or they don't bother putting it in their manual because it's confusing. Having dual z lead screws compensates for the poor design. Any part of a mechanical assembly has 6 degrees of freedom (x,y,z, and rotational x,y,z). Ender 2 has 2 degrees that are weak(up/down, forward/backward), Ender 3 has 1 degree that is weak (up/down), and dual z machines have no clear weaknesses.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I don't mind glass however, I switched to pei and don't intend on going back(I have an extra magnet and pei sheet I could cut and switch in place of the stock "fridge magnet"). I was also thinking about running an ender 2 with the ender 3 motherboard to bypass the temp problems, not sure if this would give me issue. also toying around with petg to see if it can replace my go to filament, Polymaker asa.
Waaaaay too much thermal paste! The voids left between threads once tightened is so minimal that you just make a huge mess and waste most of the paste when using that much.
@@NathanBuildsRobots 1.5% more performance from globbed on and making a mess that has to be wiped off (not to mention the contamination from what got squeezed out internally) vs the proper amount? That's debatable! You can only increase heat transfer based on surface area, that's what the paste does, once the voids are filled, no more can be had by using more.
