Ender 3 V2 An Easy Way of Installing, Calibrating, and Printing with Mainsail Klipper 

Hello Neon, Thank you for commenting and kindness, I appreciate you very much. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Let me know how Klipper works for you. Best of luck with your mods!

Hello mthomas6272, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. I was in the same boat as you trying to piece together all the prices of this Klipper puzzle. Once you do it a few times it will click for you if not already. Check out my latest video on getting the filament sensor working in Mainsail Klipper. 3D printing is a blast, the hobby is extremely powerful and not too expensive for anyone to get into. Best of luck with your mods!

Hi Elias, Thank you for your kind remarks. My head was spinning trying to figure out how to get it working. I think I made just about every mistake but learned a lot about the process. Hopefully it will save some time. Enjoy your day my friend.

Great stuff Phill, Thank you for all your kind comments. I'm glad you are out there getting speeding tickets for printing above the speed limit. Klipper is another one of those game changer upgrades. My biggest problem now is trying to find more Raspberry Pis to upgrade my other machines without paying an arm and a leg. You mentioned the Voron but have you seen this thing? flsun3d.com/products/flsun-v400?variant=42441543057576 I like Amazon's FBA program to warehouse and ship products. I did sell on Etsy and eBay for awhile. It works well but you have to ship stuff out as it sells so there is a little more hassle factor.

@@vbared Yes, i just watched the first review of the v400. its the logical next step if you use klipper and like to go fast!! ( I'm a DSM guy too, we will chat about that another time. lol) I got my pi 4b 1gb for $115 on amazon, they are still out there in that price range, IF, that is in somones price range. BTT just launched their own pi board that is supposed to be as fast as a pi3 and can either mount right to their manta board or has an attachment that makes it the form factor of a pi with usb's ect. that you have to buy seperate. all in i think it is about $80. i have no idea if it is as good as a real Pi, but def a good alternative if you dont want to spend over $100. I got the pi 4 even tho it is overkill, i still have some headroom for adding another printer or using add ons such as timelapse. Do you have an email that i can send you some settings / ideas that i'd like to share with you, to see whats working or not with your setup?. lmk, thanks!

@@philbassi9241 Hi Phil, Thank you for pointing me to a Raspberry Pi alternative, I started looking at others myself. Doug O'Connor, a RU-vid subscriber, picked up 4 pre-owned Raspberry Pi 3s on eBay for $55 each. He only needed 1 and knew I was looking for 3. Just received a package from him of them Saturday. I'm looking forward to Klipperizing all of my machines. My email is vbared@gmail.com The 4G63T is an amazing engine. In addition to the EVO 8 I also have a 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS Turbo project car that I'll one day finish.

Hello friend, Thank you for commenting, encouragement, and subscription. Klipper is amazing, you are going to enjoy dialing it in and producing great looking clean prints. Just ask if you have any questions, I enjoy helping.

Hello Manny, Thank you for commenting and encouragement, I appreciate you very much. Great job getting Klipper set up, the new capabilities you've just unlocked are going to blow your mind. My latest video (linked below) elaborates on the hardware side of installing and using the accelerometer to measure resonances in Mainsail Klipper. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kg_jYL7ksEc.html Best of luck with your mods!

Hello Friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Klipper is amazing, you will enjoy getting the most out of your printer. Best of luck with your installation :)

@@vbared I understood more from your video than from other videos I saw in my language Greek 😂

Hello Colin, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Congratulations on getting Mainsail Klipper installed and working. It's an amazing system for running a 3D printer. I can't go back to a traditional firmware. Best of luck with your mods!

Hi Dennis, Thank you for your kind comment. You're most welcome, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Please link the git hub page you're referring to so I can take a look at what mean. Best of luck with your mods!

Hello Tony, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods!

Thank you friend, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Wow! $99 what a deal. I've been trying to come across that deal but haven't seen it yet. Best so far is $198. Thank you for considering to support my work. Best of luck with your mods!

Hello Shawn, Thanks again my friend, I appreciate you very much. Trying my best to help make sense of the sea of confusing information out there and sharing as I learn.

Hello Graeme758, Thank you for commenting. Yeah, I hear you and having to run multiple Raspberry Pis can be a real hassle if running many printers.

Hello Ozzie, Thank you for commenting. Are you using an Ender 3 V2? If so watching this video walks you though the whole process.

Hi Larry, Great job, yeah, you got it!

@@vbared Just tried to follow your great documentation on Mainsail OS Flashing Guide. That is the way to do documentation that is understandable. Thanks for the great doc.

@@larrymeans7046 Hi Larry, how did it go? Is Klipper working for you? Let me know if you have any errors that need to be resolved so I can help you. Enjoy your Holiday!

@@vbared Installed Klipper about three months ago and I like it. Gives you a lot of control. One thing I notice is the temperature changes as its printing. I can set the temperature to say 215 in Cura and while it is printing the model, the temperature will change, sometimes up and sometimes down. Also I am experimenting with .6mm nozzle. So far it is working good. Next project is to get the webcam working on Klipper. Just thought of something. I am using Cura 5.1.1 and their is no plugin subdirectory to add moonraker connection. Your video is using a older version.

Hello Noisy _bot_fpv_, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I made this video on how I wired and mounted the Raspberry Pi, it's linked below. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sSE37ehd-pY.html Best of luck with your mods!

Hello Vincent, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods!

Hello Crooker2, Thank you for commenting. Running Klipper on a PC will provide a lag free experience. Let me know how it all works out for you. Best of luck with your mods!

@@vbared Thanks Victor! For the record, I'm doing this with KIAUH which is an awesome helper tool. I still have lots to learn though. Thanks for your content. New subscriber. Appreciate it.

Hello SanyaDez, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods!

drive.google.com/file/d/1CGXSUiELi7z5i22eofCZzXMXNssIIu-0/view?usp=drivesdk

The serial in the printer.cfg ist the same like in putty

You're welcome friend, There might be something in the Mainsail Klipper update that needs fixing. Try a fresh Mainsail Klipper putty installation using only the files provided in the video description but skip the update all step. Complete the rest of the steps and see if it communicates with the printer.

Now ist works. I think there was an issue in the printer.cfg file for me. I used the example file and had succes. Thanks from germany. I love your channel!

@@Albi1893 Thank you Albi1893, I'm glad you got it working. Klipper is amazing, your going to love it.

Hi Este, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I made a magnetic mount in place of the stock display and am using an old cell phone with a thin sheet of metal between the phone and the rubber phone case. MainsailOS can be accessed from any device that can get on the internet by typing mainsailos in the address bar. I'll make a video soon on it.

Hi Decoder, Great job, learning about the screw tilt. I haven't played with that feature yet. The resonance measurements and pressure advance are super cool,

@@vbared I forgot another important thing which was switching to a piece of paper instead of a feeler gauge after seeing people say to switch online. The piece of paper gives me a better feeling of the nozzle then the exact distance the feeler gauge gives. That gave me much better results.

Hi Elias, I found this that might work for you. My printer.cfg is the last link gist.github.com/jasonehines/51b3bec00d6efdb23a006afa6969b105 drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19uuvaTZKA7knyECcFuNyRB-TQ6ydJte2 Enjoy your day, friend!

Hi Nick, Thank you for commenting, encouragement, and info about the new chip. I haven't tested this myself but a possible solution might be below. Please let me know if it works for you. klipper.discourse.group/t/support-for-new-creality-boards-4-2-2-with-gd32f303/3016?page=2

Hello Pieter, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm running my E3D V6 on bowden. My goal was to keep the hotend assembly and bed light weight so I can improve the print speeds. Using the minimalist fan bracket together with the lightweight G10 Garolite allows me to print parts at 175mm/s on it without issues.

Hello GP's DIY, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found in this video for your viewing time. My apologies for the response delay. The timing of your question is perfect since I just added the 4.2.7 board to my Ender 3 Pro. I'm working through one issue tonight and will share my complete printer.cfg file with you as soon as I complete my testing, stay tuned. Best of luck with your mods!

Hi GP's DIY, Just finished the Ender 3 Pro with a 4.2.7 board and CR-Touch video. All the resources are in the video description. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d0xTtVwTtc4.html Best of luck with your mods!

@@vbared Thanks a Ton Victor, with help and guidance from your video I was able to upgrade my ender 3-max to Klipper and also added the dual belted Z. Now it is running like a printer on steroids 😁 so now on to doing similar upgrades on my other 3 ender 3 Pro's. Thanks a Lot once again and greetings from India 🙏

@@Accessgp Hi GP, Thank you for your kindness. Great job converting your printer to run Klipper and adding the dual belted Z. Most people think that awesome 3D printers can just be bought but they can't. They must be built by people like you. Enjoy the fruits of your labor in every new print your machine produces. I can't think of many things that are more rewarding building something with your own hands and watching it work. Greetings from Texas, USA (:

@@vbared HI Victor, I am in the process of flashing klipper to my ender3pro which has the newer 4.2.2 mainboard (noisy one). I get mcu rpi unable to connect. I followed everything mentioned in your video and also the Klipper website. Is there something I am missing or is there a possibility of having a unsupported control board? The controller on my board says GD32F303 and not STM...

Hi AZWildk4T, Thank you for commenting. Yes I'm running a genuine E3D V6 all metal hotend (linked in the video description). I haven't had to do a thing to it since I originally installed it on one of my Ender 3 V2s. The max print speed for it is 150mm/s printing PETG at 230c. The way to tell you're at the limit is by listening to the extruder. Once it starts clicking you're at the max speed and should back down some till there is no clicking during the entire print. Yeah, I got tired of dealing with the Micro Swiss all metal hotends also. The issue for me has been the heat block loosening from the heat cycles resulting in some ugly blowouts. I got tired of dealing with fouled thermistors and heater cartridges also. Best of luck with your mods!

Can not open the installation files

Got it. Right clicked on link. It copied the link. Opened up a new browser window and copied in the link. Opened up the files to the zip files.

It's one of those game changing upgrades like using G10 Garolite for the build plate.

Hello Juan, No need to apologize, I understand you perfectly. Below is my complete CURA start g-code. You need to make sure that bed mesh is loaded prior to the print starting so after the G28 ; Home all axes add BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default" ;Ender 3 V2 Start Code M117 Pre-heating the extruder! M104 S150; start warming extruder to 150 M117 Getting the bed up to temp! M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature G28 ; Home all axes BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default" G1 X245 Y218.5 Z1 F5000.0 G92 E0 ; Reset extruder M117 Getting the extruder up to temp! M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface G1 X228 Y200 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position M117 LET THE PURGE BEGIN! G1 X228 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line G1 X225.2 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to side a little G1 X225.2 Y200 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line G92 E0 ; reset extruder G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface M117 Autobots! Roll Out! ; End of custom start GCode

​ @Victor Bared Yes, that's checked, the g-code it's the same as you! I found out a command in Klipper: PROBE_ACCURACY, tried it 4 times and the results are completely innacurate: #1: standard deviation 0.025200 #2: standard deviation 0.007267 #3: standard deviation 0.032750 #4: standard deviation 0.059517 So maybe the problem is that the sensor is not original, sadly in my country everything is very expensive, that's why I bought the cheap one haha. Anyway, thanks you again Victor, for sure one of the best channels of 3d printing!

@@juanignacioschulz5015 Wow, the probe accuracy is really bad. Thank you for sharing your experience with the 3D-Touch.

Hi Burbycian, Great job getting things working. I haven't tried installing Klipper on anything other than a Raspberry Pi. What netbook are you running it on, Eeepc?

Some ancient Lenovo ThincPad 2015 or 16 - so many do not live!))). There is only 2 Gb of RAM, though I changed the disk to a Chinese SSD 128 Gb. But Debian 11 and everything else is doing very well. Of course, Khadas is more productive and I will still try to put another *Nix on top of the existing one. (As I understand it, this model has a specific bootloader that requires a special assembly of the distribution, and this kung fu is not available to me ...). I have a general question. Why, having the include chain, are some macros located in printer.cfg and not in macros.cfg? Does it have to do with order of execution?

@@burbycianburbycianovich9274 I hear you, there are a couple of EEEPCs sitting in a storage box. I'm still learning Mainsail Klipper so double check me on this but I believe macros can be put in either file. My printer.cfg is very basic so far. If you have a lot of custom macros then putting them in macro file makes more sense to keeping the printer.cfg file cleaner.

​So I did, I liked the division of the program into logical modules, but you still have to follow the commands.)))

Greetings! It's going hard, but it's going!)) The bed and extruder temperatures are controlled and maintained correctly, the BL Touch probe responds correctly, macros work, but unfortunately not all. Trying to enter the menu bar of the SD Card printer screen causes a complete hang. (By the way, in the Klipper documentation was a reference to the file menu.cfg, but on GitHub I could not find it). But that's all unimportant for now. The main problem is with the motors. Command M119 - x:open y:open z:open, and right after it command G28 - No trigger on x after full movement, and any attempt to move axis -Must home axis first, PROBE/PROBE_CALIBRATE - Must home before probe. I have a suspicion that the problem is in the board configuration, especially since there are two configuration files on GitHub that fit my machine - 'printer-creality-ender3pro-2020.cfg' and 'generic-creality-v4.2.7.cfg', BUT they are ZERO(!!!) marked step_pin and dir_pin for all axes. But switching needles back and forth in printer.cfg had no effect. When a motion command is given, you hear a slight 'duk' and that's it. I want to ask you what needles are written in your printer.cfg, because you must have a similar Creality 4.2.7 board. And in general, maybe you have any thoughts on this subject. I would be grateful for any answer!))

Thank you for your kind comment. I'm using Mainsail Klipper on my two Ender 3 V2's both of which run 32 bit boards. Klipper's advanced features, pressure advance and input shaping allows me to print at 175mm/s on my machine using a E3D V6 hotend with a BondTech nozzle. My other Ender 3 V2 uses the stock MK8 hotend. I print at 125mm/s with it. Mainsail Klipper is another game changer upgrade. Printing on G10 is also an amazing upgrade that resolves all the bed adhesion and print removal issues. It works with PLA, PLA +, ASA, PETG, and Nylon. Just hit print and walk away, it's that simple. amzn.to/3U5h0oB Have a great night.

@@vbared Thank you! Your experience inspires joyful expectations and I personally trust it completely. As soon as I figure out the Z-axis problem, I'll start exercising right away.) What do you use as a host for Klipper - single board, thin client, old nettop? And what OS - Ubunta, Debian, Ambian?

Hi Gryzounours, Thanks for commenting and I hear you. If it's not broken don't fix it. All my machines are super dialed in but one of the aluminum beds has a high spot along the center from side to side. So big prints were a crap shoot. I tried the Jyers UBL and it created an awesome mesh that resolved the problem but when it would probe for tilt it altered the bed mesh in a bad way. So I decided to give Klipper a shot. Quickly I discovered that the speed limitations on these machines are due to the low processing power of the control board. The STM32F103 is a single core 72mhz processor. Loading Klipper on a Raspberry pi 3 B+ gives you a quad-core 1.4ghz each worth of processing power. The MainsailOS dashboard displays the CPU usage at 6% so there is plenty of headroom for more speed. My bottleneck now is my E3D V6 hotend that maxes out at 150mm/s. Realistically the safe speed is 125mm/s. I'm just ordered Bondtech CHT nozzle which is supposed to flow 3X more than the stock E3D V6 nozzle. A 3D benchy at 50mm/s on the Jyers firmware looks the same as the one from my MainsailOS Klipper machine that did it at 150mm/s. Best of luck with your mods!

@@vbared Nice, I am going to give Klipper a try then ! What speed do you think you can attain with Bondtech CHT nozzle ?

@@Gryzounours Good morning, Bondtech claims the flow rate at 3X better than the stock nozzle on a E3D V6. If I can get it to print at 200mm/s that would be awesome.

@@vbared Hey again, I am printing my first benchy with Klipper thanks to your tutorial. Thanks again. It looks promising

@@Gryzounours Awesome! You're going to love it. It's a one of those game changer upgrades like switching to G10 Garolite for your build surface.

Hello, Thank you for commenting and the heads up about the Google Drive Link. It looks like they made a change that is causing issues. I copied those files to MEGA - mega.nz/file/VIVHTZpQ#niYdBTV32IiXy8ZyVoK-JOdce8Yvwg-if5yvQAokkoY

Hi Decoder, thank you for commenting. I haven't printed with PLA since switching to Klipper, but printing in PETG I can print most things between 100-125mms using a stock nozzle. I recently switched out my nozzle for a Bondtech and it improved flow enough for me to print between 175-200mm/s. I did printed a benchy at 250mm/s but had to print 10-15 degrees hotter. The problems I encountered at this speed was parts cooling. I haven't figured out a fix yet but, it's coming!

Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. Yes, my Ender 3 V2 Klipper.bin file will work on yours. I'm not sure if anything else is created in the the raspberry pi or in your case Android phone when the bin file is generated so if it doesn't work just run the Linux commands to generate your own klipper.bin on your device but just use mine, which should be the same.

Thanks for your answer.

@@user-uk9pl2iw9b Anytime (:

Hello Skylark, Thank you for commenting. Hands down for me would be the Ender 3 V2 (which I own 2). They are by far my favorite among the other printers that I have. The Ender 3 V2 has a huge development community around it and is sold at an affordable price. Mine has all the parts listed below but the Dual Z Axis Kit which will be my next upgrade. The build list is below and if you run into any questions, just ask. I'd be happy to share what I've learned over the years to help save you time and frustration. My Ultimate Ender 3 V2 Build List - Ender 3 V2 - amzn.to/3BF2XwF Upgrades in order of importance: You should consider the five upgrades below out of the gate since they will require a great deal of disassembly later to install. The G10 Garolite will eliminate all the print adhesion and print removal issues normally associated with 3D printing (which was my greatest frustration when I first started 3D printing. Creality 3D Printer Accessories Kit - amzn.to/3wuaq1Q Anti Backlash Nut with Lead Screw Support - amzn.to/3opukWR G10 Garolite Build Surface - amzn.to/3tNSGg8 Creality CR-Touch - amzn.to/3AFBytd Micro Swiss dual gear extruder kit - amzn.to/3quGWx6 The upgrades below should be considered after you've had some time using your machine and getting used to the 3D printing processes. E3D V6 All-Metal Hotend - amzn.to/3zcu3wo Adaptor E3D V6 to the Ender 3 V2 mount - victor-bared.myshopify.com/products/minimalist-e3d-v6-fans-bracket-and-ducts-for-dual-4010-blowers-single-4010-or-4020-heatsink-fan-stl-files-for-diy-3d-printing Compatible blower fans for the mount above - amzn.to/3tuKfqm M2 X 8mm self-tapping (need 8) - amzn.to/3qulw3o M3 X 12mm pan head (need 4) - amzn.to/3fqjP0B M3 x 6mm hex button cap screw - amzn.to/349l6Hy Install Video of E3D V6 - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dZz-eR3d5YE.html Super Quiet Upgrades & How-to Video: 4 Dunlop Squash Balls (Need 2 Sets of 3) - amzn.to/32jPqhH Noctua 40x10mm Fans (Need 2) - amzn.to/3JjSTxq Noctua 80x25mm Fan - amzn.to/3Jk2u7i How to install the quiet fan - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ycvHpMbo5Hw.html Dual Z Axis Kit - amzn.to/3AVYAzx 3D Printable Files - drive.google.com/file/d/1EP_I6gEWe-FosKM378UJI-PVBOrBvQaV/view?usp=sharing

Hi Duncan, what printer.cfg are you using? Is it the one for the 4.2.7 board or are you using the 4.2.2 printer.cfg?

I have tried Both!! and from differing sources too. So still scratching my head but I will get to the bottom of it. @@vbared

Hi Decoder, what build plate material are you using, stock glass?

@@vbared yeah I am using the stock glass flipped over since the textured side is a bit scratched

@@decoder33 Hi Decoder, I had the same problems printing on textured and smooth glass but since switching to G10 Garolite all the problems are gone (mine linked below. No more stick glue, tape, and scrapping. The parts now stick when hot and pretty much pop off on their own when cooled. amzn.to/3C7TfEw Best of luck with your mods!

Hi Albi1893, Thank you for your kind comment. What trouble are you having?

Hi Jessica, Thank you for commenting. Try this revised version of the guide, Klipper had some updates that required this revision of the process. Let me know if you run into any problems with it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DZMUmiNEheM.html

Hi Larry, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I found most of the tutorials I watched on installing this more complicated than it needed to be. Here is a great resource for you on how to setup time lapse video in Klipper. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I7XJ-cgOgzE.html Best of luck with your mods!

Hi Evan, Thank you for your kind comments. Is the Mainsail interface loading via the web browser for you but shows the MCU error? If so make sure that the USB cable has data transfer ability. I usually test my cables using an old cell phone that has a USB mini plug and plug the USB side into my computer. If I can access the files on the phone then the cable is good. If it only charges, the cable may be either bad or is a charge-only cable. I've had cables right out of the wrapper not work so try a few to make sure that isn't what is causing the issue. Check communication between Klipper and the printer by copying the "ls /dev/serial/by-id/*" line below and pasting it into the PuTTY session. If you get a file not found error, check your USB connection between the Raspberry Pi and the Ender 3 V2. This messed me up for some time and it was just a loose cable. It should report something similar to the following: (if different than the values below copy the output and paste it into the printer.cfg file in the [mcu] section replacing what's after serial: ls /dev/serial/by-id/* The Raspberry Pi should return something like the line below if it can communicate with the printer. /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB2.0-Serial-if00-port0

@@vbared Oh okay so the printer needs to be connected when running that code?

@@evankulper Hi Evan, did you confirm that the printer can talk to Raspberry Pi using the ls /dev/serial/by-id/*

@@vbared It definitely is connecting to the printer. I was able to run a print. I think the problem is that it’s missing the “klipper-mcu-start.sh” file. Is there a way to add that file so it can use it? Edit: it turns out that I needed to run the klipper-mcu.service file. But even though I figured that out, it still when I type the make flash command tells me “failed to restart klipper mcu service: unit klipper mcu service not found.

Hello Burbycian, My only OS experience has been Windows and a little playing around with Linux. I would imagine that this topic has been explored. I would ask on the Klipper forums since there are many eyes on them to help you increase the chances of a solution to your needs. My apologies for not having the answers to your questions. Best of luck with your endeavors!

Thank you Victor, you have already helped me enough and without your example, I would not have decided on this adventure with Klipper`s.)))

@@burbycianburbycianovich9274 Klipper is awesome, I'm glad you are taking the time to make it your own. At this point you're learning more things about it that I haven't looked into. Keep in touch and let me know how it all comes together for you. After experiencing Klipper I don't think I can go back to regular Marlin firmware.

I will definitely report my progress.))) For example, I managed to set up KlipperScreen for Android via USB, but so far I have not been able to communicate via Wi-Fi. And the most annoying thing is that on the old tablet, which I also wanted to use problems with the USB connection, and on the relatively new Xiaomi Readmi6, everything is fine, but I need a tablet with its 8 inch screen. Marllin are familiar and worn slippers, but Klipper is... I don’t even know what to compare this hemorrhoids... Probably, this is - weapons can be simple, complex and German!))) Good luck to you and all the best!)))

Greetings! Thanks to you, I can congratulate myself, the three-week epic under the name Klipper seems to have ended successfully. I was able to connect my smartphone as a remote screen. KlipperScreen via ADB(Wi-Fi), there was a problem with the autostart script, but I figured it out and everything worked as I wanted))) So your example and your efforts were not wasted, at least they motivated me to this wonderful venture))). But I did not think it would be so difficult and long ... Once again, a huge THANK YOU!

Hello Robby, Thank you for commenting and pointing out the trouble with the link. Try this one below. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19uQZPEWKl3zY7l9Dv3gnl18uXSxv0F40

Hello Burbycian, How goes your Klipper journey? I'm aware that some start G-Code can reside on Klipper but I haven't used them there. My start G-Code is in CURA. The only thing I added to CURA after installing Klipper is loading the bed mesh. I believe that my start G-Code is in the video description of the Klipper video. Let me know if it's not there and I'll send you the link.

Hi Victor! Thanks for the reply!))) My Klipper is still at the very beginning of its flight and I'm still learning, using only the basic features.))) But already printed a lot of Christmas and New Year's decorations. So far I can say that the quality of printing is not worse, and maybe even better than Marlin, and the speed is clearly higher. In addition, I successfully printed a TPU plastic part!))) (Though quite a simple geometry). Why did I ask my question. PrusaSliser has its own command language with which it is convenient to automate many things, for example to lower the bed temperature after a specified layer or flexibly control retracting, but Klipper doesn't accept those commands and ignores them. Klipper has a GET_POSITION command, but it gets all the printer head position prameters, and in units of length, and I just want a layer count. I suppose I could get that value from the height of the hotend position, but I have no idea how to do that yet. I'll dig the forums and figure it out... By and large, it's all my petty niggles and numny to use a tool called Klipper, but I will definitely learn!)))

Hi Lloyd, Make sure you look at your [stepper_z] fields and make sure that the endstop info between the spaces below matches what you have. The hashtags at the beginning of the lines determines whether it's active of not. I'm assuming you don't have a BL/CR- Touch so your endstop lines should match the ones below. Call me 478-227-3301 if you can't get it resolved, I'll help you trouble shoot it. [stepper_z] step_pin: PB6 dir_pin: !PB5 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 8 #endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop # Comment out if not using BL/CR-Touch endstop_pin: ^PA7 # Uncomment if not using BL/CR-Touch position_endstop: 0.0 # Uncomment if not using BL/CR-Touch position_max: 240 position_min: -2

@@vbared thank you for the answer but my cfg file seems to be just like what you said. I can't call you since I'm in France but if you have facebook or instagram so we can chat and share screens and files it would be great. Thank you very much!

@@lloydg8750 Hi Lloyd, can you email me your printer.cfg file so I can load it into Klipper to figure out what is going on? vbared@gmail.com

@@vbared yup on the way!

@@vbared if you want to go on discord or else I'm available if you are!

Hello Masgras George, I'm sure it can work off a laptop running Linux but I haven't tried it. Let me know what process you find to get it working.

Hello Decoder, Thank you for commenting. Try a different SD card and see if it completes. Sometimes SD cards can have bad sectors. Normally this isn't a problem when just storing files on the card but if the card contains an operating system like Linux then a bad sector in the wrong place can cause the failure. Let me know if this solves the problem for you

@@vbared I am using the sd card reader that came with the ender 3 v2. Could that be a problem? I just bought a SD card for this. The only other one I have is the one which came with the printer. I am formatting the SD card I just bought and am going to try again. If that doesnt work I will wipe the card that came with my printer and try that one.

Hello JamieLee2k, Thank you for commenting. Yes, this guide will be the same for the B versions.

Hi Mica, that response indicates that the Raspberry Pi doesn't see the printer. Try a different USB cable. Keep in mind that it must be a data cable and not be a charge only cable. I've had brand new data USB cables not work so try another one.

Hello, I'm glad to, linked below. mega.nz/file/NINA1YhC#bPCik5d3eAuV-KHh02LmO_evXflw0kG83a3BX0IEEyM

Hello Greg, My apologies for the late reply. Thank you for commenting and info on the dead link. I moved the file over to Mega link below. mega.nz/file/VIVHTZpQ#niYdBTV32IiXy8ZyVoK-JOdce8Yvwg-if5yvQAokkoY Best of luck with your mods!

Hi Shawn, Call me 478-227-3301 and leave a voicemail so I can call you right back to help you resolve it.

Hi Shawn, Make sure that the USB cable has data transfer ability. I usually test my cables using an old cell phone that has a USB mini plug and plug the USB side into my computer. If I can access the files on the phone then the cable is good. If it only charges, the cable may be either bad or is a charge-only cable. I've had cables right out of the wrapper not work so try a few to make sure that isn't what is causing the issue. Check communication between Klipper and the printer by copying the "ls /dev/serial/by-id/*" line below and pasting it into the PuTTY session. If you get a file not found error, check your USB connection between the Raspberry Pi and the Ender 3 V2. This messed me up for some time and it was just a loose cable. It should report something similar to the following: (if different than the values below copy the output and paste it into the printer.cfg file in the [mcu] section replacing what's after serial: ls /dev/serial/by-id/* The Raspberry Pi should return something like the line below if it can communicate with the printer. /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB2.0-Serial-if00-port0

I may have jumped the gun. When I go to mainsail and try to home the printer, nothing moves. I get an error "no trigger on x after full movement". The hot end works, the bed heater works. I have tried to sync the endstops and check that but nothing. Ender 3 v2. 4.2.7 board. Just added a CR touch before installing klipper. nothing else added. Can you help?

Hi Larry, Please provide some more information on your setup. What extruder, hotend, etc... are you using. Describe the Moonraker issue in more detail. Are you saying that when your type mainsailos into the address bar it doesn't connect to the Mainsail interface? Does it work when you type in the IP of the Raspberry Pi?

Just noticed something. Under printer.cfg, I need to change the rotation distance since I am using the stock hotend and stock extruder. I have the Ender 3V2. This might fix the erratic extruder. [extruder] max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0 step_pin: PB4 dir_pin: PB3 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 22.546 # Change value to 34.406 if not using Micro Swiss Dual Gear Extruder

Forgot to tell you I have the CR-Touch.

Found some more changes in printer.cfg. I never changed the printer.cfg. MY lines are still commented. [extruder] max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0 step_pin: PB4 dir_pin: PB3 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 22.546 # Change value to 34.406 if not using Micro Swiss Dual Gear Extruder nozzle_diameter: 0.400 filament_diameter: 1.750 heater_pin: PA1 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC5 #control: pid # tuned for stock hardware with 230 degree Celsius target #pid_Kp: 22.605 #pid_Ki: 1.215 #pid_Kd: 105.112 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 300 pressure_advance = 1.0 [heater_bed] heater_pin: PA2 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC4 #control: pid # tuned for stock hardware with 80 degree Celsius target #pid_Kp: 74.533 #pid_Ki: 1.854 #pid_Kd: 749.059 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 130

Hi Larry, The PID tuning tests will comment out the stock data in the heater bed and extruder fields and move the new values to the bottom of the printer.cfg file. Yes, your stock extruder rotation_distance: should be 34.406 Call me +1 478-227-3301 if you need more details.

Hi Defiant Mods, Thank you for commenting. Great point, all the Klipper files are located on the same drive. I stumbled around pretty good when building mine that I thought including it already built might save someone else time. Best of luck with your mods!

Hello Burbycian, Please describe what you are wanting to do so I can help you look for a solution. I'm learning Klipper as well and the settings, aside from pin: PA0, you are working with aren't familiar to me.

Hello Victor, glad to hear you!))) Thanks, I too am studying the Klipper as I go along, and everything else too.))) I think I figured it out - I want too much from my board. She have only one PA0 control pin for the fan(s) and the connectors are wired in parallel. I guess I will use the signal which is designed for the filament sensor, but I need to find a board with mosfet`s ready to use, so I don`t have to risk with hinged mounting. At the same time we should think about controlled cooling of the MCU - i had a temperature of up to 62 degrees... In the first approximation everything already works and quite satisfactorily. True on smoothing the top surface gets a rarefied print, but it can be cured.))) I was pleased that the PID coefficients of Klipper and Marlin were close enough, and the Z-Offset matched up to the third digit. Thanks again for your feedback!)) Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

Hi Ozzie, Try a different USB to micro USB cable. This error is telling you that there is no communication between the Raspberry Pi and the Printer. When I got this error it was due to the Raspberry Pi side USB cable not being inserted all the way in. My friend Doug had the same issue and his problem was caused by his cable being charge only, it had no wires connected to the data pins.

@@vbared Copy all I will try another cable thank you!

Victor, that was it!! Now to continue on. Thank you!

@@ozziesoto2955 You're going to love Klipper, it's awesome!

@@ozziesoto2955 Excellent 👍

Hello Taylor, Thank you for commenting. All the lights links needed are in this video's description. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sSE37ehd-pY.html Best of luck with your mods!

Hi Noisy, What are you typing into the address bar?

Is the connection issue you are having browser related or does MainsailOS connect but the printer isn't communicating with it? Your mainboard details is linked at the bottom. You can place your printer specific details in place of the ones I have in my printer.cfg. Also the flash settings need to match this below. # This file contains common pin mappings for the BIGTREETECH SKR mini # E3 v3.0. To use this config, the firmware should be compiled for the # STM32G0B1 with a "8KiB bootloader" and USB communication. # The "make flash" command does not work on the SKR mini E3. Instead, # after running "make", copy the generated "out/klipper.bin" file to a # file named "firmware.bin" on an SD card and then restart the SKR # mini E3 with that SD card. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ALUb-24qSiTV1KNuXVKod4DTaBGPqny7

@@vbared many thanks got that all done now. I missed that. Now do I need to still set up Linux as per your tutorial please. Many thanks

@@noisy_boi_fpv_3920 Great! Yes follow the rest of the tutorial so everything in my printer.cfg will work for you.

@@vbared cheers man will give it another go. Thank for the pointers. Great tips. Awesome man Got my sub dude

Hi Mick, give me a call 478-227-3301 so I can get more details about your issue and help you resolve it.

@@vbared Thank you for the offer, but I think I resolved it by chmod 777 the relevant folder. Didnt work with the config_examples folder. So it may be some witchcraft. Just got to resolve "BLTouch failed to raise probe", none of the debugging commands do anything.

@@mickeyred Hi Mike, What control board are you using?

@@vbared morning, it is the 4.2.2 board. The borough is the type that uses an adaptor between the 422 board and screen and two wires that use the z stop. I have a cr-touch delivered today that connects directly to the board so that should hopefully fix it. If that doesn’t work I have a BTT v1.4 board gathering dust

@@mickeyred Let me know if the CR-Touch resolves the issue.

Hi Larry, email me vbared@gmail.com the link you tried to send so I can take a look at what is happening. I'll do my best to help you resolve the problem. Happy Holidays!

Hello, I just did a fresh Mainsail Klipper on Raspberry Pi for a new printer. The following sequence is still working: cd ~/klipper/ sudo apt update sudo apt install python3-numpy python3-matplotlib libatlas-base-dev ~/klippy-env/bin/pip install -v numpy /home/pi/klippy-env/bin/python3 -m pip install --upgrade pip Let me know if you have any trouble with it.

@@vbaredit works now. I probably screwed up in the beginning. thank you

@@pinggoyadventures5010 Awesome! Glad it's working for you.

Would I need to change anything if I were to upgrade mine to sprite extruder?

@@pinggoyadventures5010 The only thing I can think of is the rotation distance (aka e-steps).

Hi Jordan, What chip does you board have STM32F103 or GD32F303? Look at right side (square chip) of each picture linked below to determine which you have. image3.pushauction.com/3/0/0/cdffea97-1da1-412d-ab6e-f577ed76508d/d4c430f0-1a4c-4f34-b8a3-422bf6fd2176.jpg canada1.discourse-cdn.com/free1/uploads/klipper/optimized/2X/8/86baabe462ec66f23502d369945d902737171272_2_1023x686.jpeg

Hello, Are you installing it on an Ender 3 V2 or something else? Is your computer running Windows or Apple? If Windows are you running an antivirus program, then don't like bin files. Feel free to call me 478-227-3301 so I can help you troubleshoot the issue.