Using a 32 bit Raspberry Pi to boost your 3D printer mainboard - Klipper Ender 3 guide 

Error found 2:56 The command cd not ch (like shown on the right site)!

Klipper is the best thing ever happened. Printer movement is so incredibly smooth and fast. Also the config file editing with the klipper octoprint plugin makes changes to the firmware super easy. Macro support.. Much better pressure advance.. Just amazing!

For posterity, SSH is now included in cmd and Powershell on Windows 10. No need for PuTTY, but PuTTY does let you save connection settings and other nice features. Helpful video as always, thank you.

me: I will not change or upgrade my Ender 3 pro again. Michael: release another video... me: hmm... I change my mind.

I've been using Klipper exclusively for months now. It's fantastic. I can push my prints to 150mm/s and 3000mm/s/s acceleration and still retain 90% of my print quality. I love it. Glad it's finally getting some of the attention it deserves.

I just wanted to say thank you for this video I follow these instructions with a raspberry pi 4 with 4 gigs of RAM and my printer is working better than it ever has

Once you have Octoklipper installed, you don't need to use WinSCP as you can edit the klipper settings in it's section inside the Octoprint settings.

After toying with the idea of using this on my ageing MK2s, your video inspired me to give it a go. It was a bit harder than I would of liked (largely because there is no MK2s cfg available), but I now have a working config, with mesh bed levelling, pressure advance etc - which is producing some of the best calibration prints I have seen, and the speed boost is great (using re-configured prusa slicer). I would definitely recommend this to anyone with older hardware looking for an upgrade...

I first want to thank you for all you great help, I have just started 3D Printing and as I was checking out video's, I came across your channel and have learned a lot before my first print. I have already done some of the mod's you suggested on my Ender 3 Pro and I am very happy with what I have done, with your help. Keep up the great work.

VERY IMPORTANT: For rectangular beds, min_point and max_point have been renamed to mesh_min and mesh_max respectively.

Inspired by this video (and by peeking in to klipper before) I decided to give klipper a go. It's really good and I'm getting really awesome results and great speed! I had one problem though. My Ender 3 printer is equipped with a capacitive Z sensor which started to get a lot of interference. Apparently the klipper has a lot higher steprate for the motors that they start to interfere with the sensor. I solved the problem with connecting a GND cable from the control board to the aluminium plate behind the hotend and sensor, which shielded the sensor enough to get me printing. Electical engineer relative of mine also said it might help even more if the cables to the motors were shielded, and the shield connected to the GND, but I have managed without that so far. The interference comes specifically from the motors because they are driven by such high frequency signal, which again affects the sensor even if the cables are nowhere near the sensor itself.

I noticed a couple of things setting up mesh for the BL Touch; maybe there was an algorithm update since you made the video. Hope I got the offsets right. 1) mesh_min and mesh_max are the location of the probe. Klipper takes the offsets into account when positioning it. Because of 1 above: 2) mesh_min and mesh_max should be the exact coordinates you want to probe but each probe mount location needs a different calculation for them. 2a) for left/front probes (mine): i) The mesh_max X value should be your bed size but reduced by your X offset value and any buffer from the bed edge you might want. ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the travel limit before the probe tip. ii) The mesh_max Y value should be your bed size but reduced by your Y offset value and any buffer from the bed edge you might want. ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the travel limit before the probe tip. iii) The mesh_min X value will be the the bed size minus the coordinate from 2.a.i. above to make the mesh symmetrical. ---- The probe tip will reach the origin before the nozzle carriage. iv) The mesh_min Y value will be the the bed size minus the coordinate from 2.a.ii. above to make the mesh symmetrical. ---- The probe tip will reach the origin before the nozzle carriage. v) i.e. my probe offsets are X-34, Y-5, my bed is 235x235, I chose a 10mm buffer. For mesh_max X that's 235 + (-34) - 10 and Y it's 235 + (-5) - 10, or 191,220. For mesh_min we keep it symmetrical with X 235 - 191 and for Y 235 - 220, or 44,15. 2b) for right/front probes: i) The mesh_min X value should will be your nozzle X offset plus any buffer from the bed edge you might want ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the origin before the probe tip. ii) The mesh_max Y value is calculated the same as 2.a.ii. above. ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the travel limit before the probe tip. iii) The mesh_max X value should be your bed size minus the value from 2.b.i. above to make the mesh symmetrical. ---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the travel limit. iv) The mesh_min Y value will be the the bed size minus the value from 2.b.ii. above to make the mesh symmetrical. ---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the origin. 2c) for left/back probes: i) The mesh_min Y value should be the nozzle Y offset plus any buffer from the bed edge you might want. ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the origin before the probe tip. ii) The mesh_max X value is calculated the same as 2.a.i. above. ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the travel limit before the probe tip. iii) The mesh_min X value is calculated the same as 2.a.iii. above. ---- The probe tip will reach the origin before the nozzle carriage. iv) The mesh_max Y value should be your bed size minus the value from 2.c.i. above to make the mesh symmetrical. ---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the travel limit. 2d) for right/back probes: i) The mesh_min X value is calculated the same as 2.b.i. above ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the origin before the probe tip. ii) The mesh_min Y value is calculated the same as 2.c.i. above ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the origin before the probe tip. iii) The mesh_max X value is calculated the same as 2.b.iii. above ---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the travel limit. iv) The mesh_max Y value is calculated the same as 2.c.iv. above ---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the travel limit.

Great video. I set up klipper on my CR10S with BLTouch v3 but didnt really like it. Seemed too fiddly and Marlin TH3D was just giving me way better results. The faster print times didn't really mean anything since underextusion is guaranteed if you dont upgrade your hot end and extruder motor so it can keep up melting plastic. CoreXY seems better for klipper since it's not a bed slinger

Hope you do more videos on Klipper. I see a lot of nasty comments but please ignore them, I think you'r edoing the world a service by exploring these types of things and educating others the best you can.

yesss!!! finally! I use klipper on my printer and it's ABSOLUTELY amazing! and I wanted more people to know about it and try it!

Heads up for anyone wanting to try this, it seems you do in fact need to flash a bootloader first so it isn't as simple as just doing everything through the Pi.

Thanks! Love your videos everything worked out. I just did not know before doing all of this that my printer's board needs a bootloader (good thing I had an Arduino Uno lying around and googled another of your videos) would be nice if it was mentioned at the start :)

Awesome tutorial as always Michael. Never tried Klipper yet, but when I do I'll be re watching this so I do it right.

You should make a video of the Ender 3 + SKR mini e3 (silent drivers!) + Klipper. Switched from Ender 3 stock -> Ender 3 + Marlin 2 -> Ender 3 + SKR mini e3 + Marlin 2 -> Ender 3 + SKR mini e3 + Klipper. Klipper looks *very* promising.

I don't know if I'd have I'd every got this ro work if it wasn't for you. Thanks a lot for this video

I see Klipper is out for the Ender 3 v2. Can you do an update?

nice to see you getting used to klipper. use a bowden setup if want crazy , crazy speed. and do not forget to check the multi mcu ! you can use multiple boards to do crazy stuff!

Hi Teaching Tech. I really respect the amount of work and effort you put into your videos. Well done, you have made my entry into 3D printing much easier. Thank you.

I've been using Klipper for a while now, and I'd never go back to Marlin on the machine that have a Raspberry Pi. Other than that, I've just discovered this great video, and this made me consider using the [safe_z_home] rather than the [homing_override]. After test, there is one major difference when it comes to resetting a BL-Touch that is in error mode. The safe_z_home can reset it by means of the activate_gcode defined at probe level, but the moment it does so triggers the Z_endstop and the homing is done far above the buildplate. So I'm back to the homing_override, where I reset and stow the pin while homing XY, then proceed to homing Z.

It would have been really nice to see some prints or printing at the end. So that we know whether or not there is a point to this.

Don't forget to change the Z step_distance under [stepper_z] *# Use .000625 for 1600 steps* *# Use .001250 for 800 steps* *# Use .002500 for 400 steps*

Very inspiring to see how other firmwares do it.

if you end up fighting the printer.cfg remember to put in the direct location of the serial port! eg.. for my CR-10S: (found using ls -l /dev/serial/by-id in PUTTY) [mcu] baud: 115200 serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-FTDI_FT232R_USB_UART_AO000V8E-if00-port0 pin_map: arduino Then go into OctoPrint setup (gear in upper RIGHT) and under serial connection general, make sure '/tmp/printer' is selected and you type /tmp/printer in the 'Additional Serial Ports'. You MUST reboot the system after changing for it to take effect... Took me 3 hours to figure out because of a mis-type but it does work.

Very nice video on setting up Klipper. I’m not sure you’d see the value as quickly on a Cartesian printer as on a CoreXY or Delta, where stuttering on 8-bit boards is obvious. Great to have alternatives in the marketplace!

Since this video a lot of instructions became obsolete in the Klipper configuration. Can you post an updated version of this file for Ender 3 with bltouch and creality (Silent) boards?

Using Klipper for months now on my Ender 3 with mks gen 1.4. Very happy with it. Have configured it to include bltouch and controlled fans for board and hotend. Runs like crazy, love it. Too bad, the octoprint plugin looks orphaned....

You produce top content

Great video Michael, thank you for dedicating your time and making the 3D Printing community better. Also, on the commands shouldn't be CD to enter the directory and CD.. to exit the directory? on the handy cheat sheet on the right it says CH. Thanks again.

Big fan of the channel and the usual thoroughness of the content. That said, this video seemed more of a "how to" rather than "should you" video. That is, it lacked any before/after comparison of any print variables. What shortcoming is addressed by installing Klipper and when does that shortcoming typically present itself any any given system. Large, somewhat ambiguous, question; true. That may be the reason for the video being a "how to" but this one does seem different in that regard from others in this channel.

Any klipper install walk thrus for the SKR Mini E3 V2 on the ender 3? C:

Shredded my whole board and display somehow. I bought an Mini V3, filament sensor and a touch screen and I think, it´s time to try out something new, make the best out of it and improve some things. Thanks for the how to. Can´t wait for my spare parts

About time man. Klipper reigns supreme!

Hey i see the X3D board in the background, that's awesome. I'm going in to see Mark today and i'll let him know.

I jusk checked the Printhat but at €92 I really don't see a reason to purchese it.

I followed all the steps, but I do not have that tune option on the printer and would like to add it.

I recently set up Klipper with my Ender 3 with an MKS Gen L and UART 2208s. So far I struggle to tune PA with the Bowden setup and my desired acceleration (>1000mm/s^2) because of the extruder skipping steps at higher speeds (100 mm/s). Seeing your success with direct drive I am considering upgrading to one.

I started using Klipper before it had auto-leveling and printer screen support and it was worth it even then, 250 mm/s printing circles and curves using 8 bit board :)

I believe the proper homing of an individual axis syntax is G28 X, not G28 X0 as shown in the video. So if you wanted X and Y: G28 X Y

Wow !!! I have a print going on myender 5 and am installing rails on my CR-10. I most likely will attempt this one. Thanks

install octoklipper plug-in in octoprint, very important and useful

Which one would get better print quality and speed, Klipper with Raspberry Pi or Marlin on 32bit SKR Mini E3?

I find that i cant keep my PI running without it disconnecting so the klipper option would be bound to fail surely. I've got a SKR board to fit so I might try it then. I do like the idea of the speed . Thanks for another informative video Michael.

Since you are running Klipper, do you really need the add inboard for the BLTouch or a filament run-out sensor? The Pi has extra unused IO pins. Can you connect straight to those?

With great power comes great responsibility. Super user.

You have the patience of a saint, great video. I am hoping I can use this on my printerbot simple metal since I already use Octoprint.

That gasp at 4:36 lol

Worth noting. If you are running a silent board with 2208s, klipper does not play well. Noted on the klipper github, the 2208s default UART mode runs into a bit too much granularity in klipper and will stop the 2208s in their tracks mid print when trying to run pressure advance. Without pressure advance enabled the 2208 on the extruder plays well.

sudo comes from "su" + do su stands for switch user and it will switch to a user specified by either a name or an id and if you dont specify anything it will default to root. Just fyi

thank you very much for this video. its exactly what i was after. im looking forward to the next in the sequence to see what ya results are. this really does seem like the smarter move. i am not a fan of doing all the heavy processing work on the wee micro in the printer. the reason we cant print over USB apparently is because the wee 8bit boards are too limited to transfer the gcode in a timely manner and print. when i go to raspi on my mk3 i think i will investigate klipper

Can you update this tutorial, I have an elder 3 pro that shipped with the 4.2.2 board and has a bltouch pluged in the dedicated port and where the z_end_stop used to be and I’ve been having such a hard time installing klipper and it has become very frustrating, can you please do an updated version

Klipper supports multiple mainboards for 1 printer. So you can have 2 ramps boards plugged into a RPI controlling 1 3d printer. Why might you do this you might ask. Well 4 stepper drivers controlling z axis for example or multiple extruders.

Klipper is not aimed at those new to 3D printing. Klipper is for those who would like to make their 3D printer the best it can be. Klipper is also the default firmware for the Reprap project, Voron.

Klipper really shines for delta printers. My delta was struggling with the tradicional arduino+ramps+marlin, changing to klipper made the small pauses in complex prints go away and made the surface finish a lot better, also, I was able to speed prints up significantly... But in my cartesian printer, I still uses marlin (with 8 bit processor), klipper didn't appear to make big changes in print quality for this printer...

Way beyond my pay grade Michael but you are doing amazing. Lots of great videos, you are working hard.

Not sure about skr but official creality 32 bit boards like 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 comes with ARM not Atmega so there you will choose one of Stm processors

PLEASE allign your TT infinity mirror - i can't see it anymore not alligned horizontal -.- Nice video anyway :D

This channel has the best instructional content. Thanks so much for your efforts! - Voultar

Sorry for the noob question but do you have to put a bootloader on the ender 3 board before uploading the klipper firmware?

At 13:22 you said you have to do the probe setting manually. Maybe they did not have it a year ago. But now it is dead simple to get the exact positioning with a built in command.

Thank you for this guide!

I'll be interested to see your video about the PrintHat...I bought one a month ago, tested it and ended up sending it back. It's a good idea but in the end I couldn't get it to work correctly with Klipper on my Ender 3. I emailed their support on various occasions but they weren't able to help either. I previously had Klipper running well on my Ender 3 with a Fysetc F6 board at a third of the cost.

Hello, maybe you have a video of the installation of klipper for the geeetech A20M printer

I went through every step and they worked as shown in your video. Now I get this error message in octoprint? Error reported by printer Your printer's firmware reported an error. Due to that OctoPrint will disconnect. Reported error: Shutdown due to M112 command Any suggestions to fix this?

Looks very informative, but way over my head!

FYI = This is only for the earlier V1.1.3 boards or any other board that DOES NOT use the TMC2208s in STANDALONE mode. This is not supported on the new Creality silentboard (V1.1.5). See: www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ctiuar/the_new_v115_silent_board_and_klipper_dont_bother/

Looks to have been an update in the code and docs since your video. It now uses a command that will print a taller part with stepped PA changes every few mm.

Hey Michael! First of all, thanks for a really great channel! As i can't get neither my TMC5160 or TMC2130 to run at all, and I can't find any examples for how to run these drivers properly on Klipper, I would like to ask you to do a tutorial about it? Thanks again for a super channel!

If I've already got an skr 1.3 with marlin 2.0 and I'm using the fancy stuff like linear advance and BLtouch ABL, is there any benefit to this? I have a raspberry pi sitting in your rear mount case in my ender 3 with the SKR and they work together really well. Would it be beneficial in any way to switch to klipper with a setup like this?

It appears that my board 4.2.2 doesnt have a bootloader so I cant flash klipper from the pi, is there a way around this?

So basically if I have Ender 3 without BL-touch and I am into buying original one and installing it for a first time, basically second half of the video is also an tutorial how to get BL-touch working together with Klipper right ? Thank you!

Very detailed how, but not much about why. If you don't already have a raspberry pi it's an expensive option. Do you get better prints? Are they faster?

What is better raspberry pi or skr1.2 for ender 3?? Thanks

pressure_advance_lookahead_time seems to have been deprecated, 20191121: The pressure_advance_lookahead_time parameter has been removed. See example.cfg for alternate configuration settings.

Hi Michael. Great VDO. However, if you put on the VDO that we need bootloader first before flash klipper to Ender 3 board would be great. I forgot the step and forgot to put 10uF on Arduino (RST & GND) that take me hours.

Nice vid. I cannot get the Ender 5 Plus stock screen to work with Klipper. Show only the Klipper logo.

Hi, I got stuck at 6:04 & made sure i wasnt connected to octpi when i put in make flash FLASH_DEVICE=/dev/serial/by-id/usb-_uart_ac00zfrh-if00-port0 i get programmer is not responding. do i need to have an adruino to complete setup?

Hi Please do a video on octoprint with Pi 4B and ender 6 V4.3.1 mainboard and BLtouch. All the other options did not work for my because there is different options when compiling Klipper and then the "MCU" cant connect as a final connection with printer.cfg

Next video will be skr v1.3 and tmc drivers ?

Can you still run OctoPrint with that configureration?

I guess time will tell if the gaff of setting Klipper yields better print results. You’ve piqued my curiosity, but it looks like I’ll need to block out a fair amount of time if I want to do the job. Thanks for taking those steps and sharing them.

Well that was easy... (rolleyes) Actually, it WAS relatively painless, but the Bootloader install was tough for someone with no Arduino knowledge. I eventually got it all installed and working. Quick question; How do I go about installing Klipper on a second Ender 3 Pro. (It arrived yesterday) All the files are now already on the Pi, so how do I go about putting it on the new printer? I'm thinking (hoping) that I won't need to go right back to the beginning of this tutorial? (I'll have to find the bootloader install tutorial video though...) Also, once you install Klipper, can I still print from a MicroSD card?

"connecting wirelesly to a linux device is called SSH" no SSH is just a method of connecting it doesn't matter if it's wired or wireless. another way of connecting is through uart or telnet.

Ok, this is the bit that really interests me, "Klipper supports printers with multiple micro-controllers." all my controllers have ethernet so don't care about octoprint but being able to have more than one board controlled from this thing is pimp..

I was wondering if I'd have to revert to original/stock firmware (typically modded Ender3) before integrating this Klipper/rPi shift -- so now I am wondering if I understood correctly: the answer is ?NO? @1:25 I heard "nothing that requires adjustment of the firmware" or something like that (sorry, my Aussie interpreter runs on an 8 bit Z80 machine running CP/M) What I have to decide is which rPi to try first - but THIS sounds like FUN! So what's the bottom line re firmware?

I have been using Klipper with my Ender3 and MKS gen L for a while, printing is faster due to the calculations being planned ahead, I get some glitches now that I have a bltouch clone configured as well. Usually need to pre-heat and home manually, then everything works OK.

Is this still the way or is there a better way.

hello i have problem 6:14 the terminal tell me make: *** [src/avr/Makefile:32:flash] error 1 how to solve?

Love the videos, and in depth but easy to follow explainations! However, The camera's autofocus has been really bugging me, Can it me set to manual? Love the channel!

Not able to get past 19:50 because I am using the SKR E3 1.2 and following the instructions in the link I posted above, the folder /dev/ is not being made so /dev/serial/by-id/* is not running.

does this work with ez-abl probe?

Klipper looks awesome, excited to try it!

Cant seem to get passed the step you describe in minute 8:56 of your video.Keep getting this message. Your printer's firmware reported an error. Due to that OctoPrint will disconnect. Reported error: Unable to connect

Very interested in the follow-up - i.e. can you get better and/ or faster prints with Klipper?

Keep getting mcu error on my 32bit boards 4.2.2 and 4.2.7. Yes I changed the processor to match my board. Yes I tried flashing by USB and SD card.

I get this errors Failed to stop klipper.service: Unit klipper.service not loaded. Failed to start klipper.service: Unit klipper.service not loaded. what i have to do?