I have a standard V2. I've added a flexible PEI sheet, metal extruder, capricorn tube, and ABL. The price of these total is around $90 - compared to the +$50 or so for the V2 Neo. That extra $40 is a couple reels of filament!
I already have an Ender 3 v2, so I bypassed the Neo, and went right to the S1 because I wanted to get away from the Bowden tube so I could do softer (TPU) material. They both work GREAT...
Great channels, you say that you are offered goodies, almost weekly, perhaps to help grow your channel. You could accept them, do honest reviews, and do a giveaway with items that it works with!
I'm a complete newbie, but I have decent mechanical knowledge, so when I got my V2 Neo recently, I spent two hours assembling it and adjusting it. I found several problems that I sorted out. First I tightened the screws fixing the gantry on with a torque setting screwdriver meant for gunsmiths. It wasn't about a particular torque, but making them all exactly the same. Next I greased the Z screw. Then I found the gantry rollers were off. Some were super tight, others refused to make contact no matter what, until I figured out that you need to loosen the screws that hold the wheel assemblies onto the main gantry bar and that allows slight adjustment because the screw holes have loose tolerances. Once I got the gantry moving smoothly with all rollers making contact, I then adjusted the bed rollers until there was no play in the bed, but it moved smoothly. Then I adjusted the bed levelling springs until I had the same distance between bed an nozzle at all four corners. From the factory the bed was way off, I can't see how ABL could compensate for that much tilt on it. Only then did I turn it on and mess with Z offset and auto bed levelling. After getting to grips with Cura, I'm getting really beautiful prints. The only bad prints I had were due to having the wrong Z offset early on, and one muck up when I used vase mode on a part that I soon discovered should definitely not be printed that way.
thanks for this dude. i just ordered mine and now I have a good idea of what to look for. greasing threads is something everybody should do on any lifting/clamping/torque threads. i have my gunsmith torque screwdriver so I'm glad to use it outside of it's intended purpose. comments like this make social media worth it. thanks again!
I am a new owner of an Ender 3 V2. I had not heard of the " Neo" model when I bought mine. I purchased a metal extruder just after I orded the printer and it actually arrived before the printer. I never assembled the plastic extruder on to my printer. I saw a CR Touch on special so I grabbed one of those, but I have not installed it yet, because I want to kind of "get a feel" for my printer as it is before I introduce other variables such as different firmware to enable auto bed levelling. So It's stored in the cupboard for now. The reason for my comment is to say that although I'm happy with my Ender 3 V2, and so have no desire or need to purchase a Neo, I still feel I got a lot out of your video. Good work Irv. Keep it up please.
As an owner of a heavily upgraded Ender 3 v2 I would also recommend the neo over the normal version. If you look at the r/ender3 subreddit you can see that the plastic extruders break very often so that's $10-$15 that you will have to spend sooner or later anyway. I also prefer a flexible print bed over the glass bed that came with my ender 3 v2. But the main benefit of the neo is the ABL. It saves so much time not having to manually level the bed. After getting a good starting point with manual leveling I just use the auto leveling before every print . And it works out of the box. When I set up my BLtouch it took me over 2 hours for the installation of the hardware and to set up klipper to use the BLtouch and to adjust the start gcode in cura and that's with having experience with that kind of stuff. It's not something I would recommend for a beginner.
I wonder what you'll think re-watching these videos when we're printing at 3 million mms at 10,000 degrees Fahrenheit using pure molten steel on a budget printer! 😂
I don't know WHY people adjust both springs on ONE SIDE first, then go to the other. Do Diagonals FIRST, that way, the CENTER pivot Point isn't unadjusted with when you go to the other corners. So basically 1 being the Upper Left, 2 being the Upper Right, 3 being the Lower Left, and 4 being the Lower Left, Adjust 1 - 3 - 1 - 3 - 2 - 4 - 2 - 4, then measure the center (call it point 5). I always go back and check all corners, but they usually are spot on every time. If you get 1 - 2 set, then go to 3 - 4, 1 and 2 are now OUT of adjustment because the pivot point between 1 - 2, 3 - 4 have now raised or lowered 1 and 2. Try it, you will be amazed...
If your paper is 0.1m thick, and you set Z=0.00 at where the paper drags, then a 0.2mm first layer will be 0.2mm+0.1mm=0.3mm thick. I set my Z=0.1mm when I level using a 0.1mm paper as a feeler gauge. Near 25:49 20.01 and 19.98 the difference isn't 0.3mm, it is 0.03mm. And, with zero being the top of a 0.1 feeler gauge, I'd guess your height error is at least 3x the x/y error.
NEVER NEVER NEVER move you head at ZERO on the Z-axis. I did this ONCE, and destroyed my magnetic bed plate. Always move it up first so you are certain that you aren't scraping the bed, and possibly damaging your hot end as well.
I've just set up my ender 3 v2 neo and when I go and auto reset it goes all the way back and hits the motor. Any idea as to why that is happening?many thanks from uk.
Why didn't you also heat the nozzle tip for the leveling, my understanding is that during heating it also expand, as so it needs to be compensated. Correct me if I am wrong 😃
Good question. You are correct but for some reason manufacturers are split as to if this is necessary. In addition if you heat up the nozzle you want to keep it below the glass transition point of any filament you have loaded or remove the filament so it does not drip out if the nozzle and impact the procedure.
Great printer but I really find the manual levelling a headache, it takes too long and inaccurate. I just wish it had auto levelling like the next model. Wish I could upgrade it...
I bought an Ender 3 Max Neo for $300 during the Black Friday sale, with all the advancements plus dual-z axis, filament sensor, better bed springs, and a larger print bed.
great video, just this printer and had no idea about the manual bed leveling, so that was a life savor, great video, transparent and to the point. Thanks!
afaik, the prusa has an inductive probe for bed leveling. I do not believe these are as accurate as the bl/cr touch type, and if you use a glass plate with a prusa, then offsets need changing, as it is not in fact measuring distance from nozzle to print surface. Inductive probes are cheap and reliable, however.
Hi hi. I've enjoyed several of your videos. I'm looking at 3D printers for model making, and I know I will eventually want to make models that are just over a foot long. I'd rather spent a little more than hit a wall in a year or two as my skills increase to the point where I can make the models I want. Is the Ender-3 Max Neo worth looking at for someone like me? Thank you so much for the great videos!
I just bought one. It's a great decision, it's just like this printer but a larger bed size. My recommendation is to investigate installing custom firmware. It's not easy, but there are quite a few bugs in the stock firmware.
Many thanks for your videos and I'm really enjoying the learning. Especially around the 3D printers. Keep up the excellent work. G'day from South Australia 🇦🇺
If I can get an S1 for about the same price of the NEO V2 what would you recommend? Is the NEO more quiet or or faster? Upgrading from a regular Ender-3 so we are not beginner (not advanced either). I print stuff with my son as a hobby.
Should I be terrified of his filament spool being on the verge crashing down at 15:30? Also great video. Helped me a lot with my Ender 3 V2 Neo. Keep the videos at this quality plz.
I have ender 3 V2 and I skipped ''Neo upgrade'' and went straight to S1, to convert ender3 V2 to Neo is actually pretty close to that 50$. Converting it to S1 with Sprite kit, double Z's and CR touch was about 110$
Your are responsible that I have order the Ender 3 V2 Neo :-) . Will be my second 3D Printer, fist is a Mono price select mini V2. Thank you for your work to explain so many things.
One of the things I don’t understand and can’t seem to find any information about is those special nuts on the left side (front facing the printer). On the right side it adjusts the traction of the wheels but on the left, regardless of what I do, they don’t seem to do anything. Any help? Thanks!
Just ordered a V2 Neo, my very first 3D printer. I'm super excited and I'll be watching this video as I run through the bed leveling process, for sure. Thanks for the awesome video. Subscribed.
Excellent video! My ANYCUBIC i3 caused T0 or T1 sensor problems, which are fragile connectors on the extruder. I understood that the Ender 3 produces very precise printed results. Thanks again.
I am looking at a ender 3 neo (non V2), how would that compare to this ender 3 V2 neo? I can't really find a big difference aside from the display. Is the V2 neo so much more worth over the ender 3 neo?
Hi there thank you for your great advise, our local store has a v1 neo as a starter kit on special but cant find details on the difference between the v1 and v2 can you briefly explain please TIA
Love your videos. Have you installed Marlin firmware on this? I started looking into this and am wondering if the firmware for the non-Neo will work on this display? I would think so, just wouldn't have the image preview?
This helped me out so much my neo I just got first ever printer, every print went horrible as it wasn't sticking to the surface I thought I would need hair spray, no I calibrated manually like 5 times after watching this to be right, then sent Z axis for center that was what was off, the center was off so as it moved in center on test bunny or boat, it just ended up graging the print all over making a hot mess that when I did a stop it then draged off the center lol. Also didn't help I bought black filiment for ease with painting, and its black magnetic bed cover so as sun went down I had to get in real close to check and go no no its dragging the print again, I did all 4 corners 5 times now!" Then I watched the manual bit again and must zoned on the go back to home and set the z level then do the auto leveler after that. Like I was so stocked I got the hood mostly keep cats and dust out. In desert so humidity not a real issue, but cat hair and dust very much so. Pluse noise reduction for when roomates walk by so they don't go "has that been runing for like a day straight?" As I want to do some big prints later where it might printing for 18 hours or more lol.
I purchased this model around 2 weeks ago and as a beginner into 3d printing, I am delighted with my choice. Thank you for confirming my choice as a newbie.
Love the content thanks very much for sharing your passion for desktop technologies ....will there be any new monoprice printer videos in the future ☺️ love to touch base with upgrades or even a upgrade video in used condition printers.... From trash to treasure 3D printers resurrected would be amazing 😍 sending all the best wishes thoughts and positive vibes your way😁
This is true. Since delta printers have a fixed bed your are really just adjusting the z offset and calibrating the bed. I love my Flsun Super Racer for high speed printing. However the Ender 3 S1 is much better quality.
@@MakeWithTech Personally, I would go with the ender 5 plus which has a fixed bed in the x-y vector and has two z-axis screws. Much easier and no movable bed to slow the print down. I had an ender 3 in the beginning and returned it because of the constant adjustments. Also, the flsun doesn't have to print at high speed. For greater details, print at 40mm/sec, .2mm height, .3mm width with a .4mm nozzle. If details aren't an issue, I print at 70mm/sec. If I had the room, I'd get the ender 5 plus.
I just got an Ender 3 V2 Neo, and after reading and following the Very Limited paper setup guide, I still cannot get anything (the Rabbit Benchy & the Boat Benchy) that came on the preprogrammed SD Card that was in the box. Nothing seems to print right. If I knew what I was doing wrong, I could probably fix the issue. But at this point I am totally baffled. In other words, HELP!!
You need to manually level the bed, then use automatic bed levelling, then set the Z offset. From the factory the zero position has the nozzle way off the bed. If it's like that, then your printer will extrude filament into then air.
I just resent got an V2 Neo but iv been having issues trying to level the X-Axis, I loosen the wheels, level it and tighten everything back up but it still off. Nozzle hits the left side of the bed but prints fine on the right so iv been just using half my bed for small prints. Any tips or maybe a vid that can help me out.
I have done it manually. I did tighten the manual adjusters to lower the bed max, then told the printer to go to home position. After that disable the motors and adjust all corners to a thickness of paper from the nozzle. And that was it, all problems solved for me
Could you share from where you bought it? I'm afraid I got scammed today while trying to buy it - it seems there are multiple fake "Creality" web sites, plus a multitude of fake "wholesale" web sites "selling" this printer... I still can't tell which one could be legitimate
while you're speaking of line segments to make curved prints I thought I"d mention using arc welder in your slicer. it converts those segments into actual arcs and gives you smoother prints.
Is that in Cura? I am trying to do a scope sidewheel for field target based on a logarithmic spiral, and in Freecad I had to use a python script to make the spiral. The spiral is not an arc it's points and lines, and no tool I've found in Freecad can smooth it. I'd be very interested if that could be fixed in Cura.
On the S1 Pro they fixed the ABL XY offset firmware error that is in 99% of their printers where the nozzle is in the postion that the probe should be when probing the bed, this results in an ununiform and incorrectly probed mesh but they have not fixed this error for this printers firmware, when it comes to larger prints that use the majority of the buildplate this can result in a bad first layer and people will drive themselves mad trying to fix this when it is only fixable by flashing a third party firmware that has addressed this error, It seems Creality are not interested in fixing this in the Ender range but Soval have in their budget range, Soval are a subsidiary of Creality and use the same boards, because of this I don think Creality deserve your money and I would advise novices to avoid Creality unless they are confident in flashing a third party firmware.
So different from how I do it on my Sidewinder X2. I level the 4 corners with a piece of paper, then run the autolevel and last do the Z-level. Here I was told that it's important that the nozzle touches the bed so that 0 really means 0, there should be no gap. Working fine here. And I don't have to run autolevel every time, I just save the level data and load it on each print. It's also a good idea to remove the springs and put the wheels in their place. You can still adjust the bed height with them and once satisfied lock them in place with a nut on the other side.
One question that comes to mind is : Is it possible to upgrade my existing Ender 3 max to the new "standards" with the factory creality "high temperature" hot end and whatnot or is does it require modifications beyond swapping out existing components.
@tradde11 I'm not quite sure what is involved in overriding factory setting sin order to have access to those higher temps. Creality's website has 2 different "high temp" hot ends, one advertised at 300 the other at 500C. I'm tempted to try an upgrade (because why not), have replaced my hot end once already so I'm "familiarized" with that part of the process, but not the one that involves overriding factory settings.
I'm a complete newbie, but I have decent mechanical knowledge, so when I got my V2 Neo recently, I spent two hours assembling it and adjusting it. I found several problems that I sorted out. First I tightened the screws fixing the gantry on with a torque setting screwdriver meant for gunsmiths. It wasn't about a particular torque, but making them all exactly the same. Then I found the gantry rollers were off. Some were super tight, others refused to make contact no matter what, until I figured out that you need to loosen the screws that hold the wheel assemblies onto the main gantry bar and that allows slight adjustment because the scre mw holes have loose tolerances. Once I got the gantry moving smoothly with all rollers making contact, I then adjusted the bed rollers until there was no play in the bed, but it moved smoothly. Then I adjusted the bed levelling springs until I had the same distance between bed an nozzle at all four corners. Only then did I turn it on and mess with Z offset and auto bed levelling. After getting to grips with Cura, I'm getting really beautiful prints.
@@Patrick-857 yeah i dont mind tightening stuff and adjusting stuff, i just dont like all the re doing firmware and pid tunes on a brand new machine to have it still alarm out and not work. i use it for the heated bed, its my filament dryer now,
@@Patrick-857 yeah it's faulty, $300 paper weight, i don't recommend buying one, you can find a small rock in the yard to use as a paper weight instead,
i think this guy is used to using 3d printers where he had to manually had to set the level, u dont need to do all the steps he does, the auto level will do it just fine
I would caution people not to take your advice. The adjustment range on the bed is massive, and from the factory mine was was way off, like over 3mm off level. Powering on in that condition is a recipe for disaster. I did the basic paper trick to manually level it once and after that ABL has worked great. You don't want to use ABL to correct a huge adjustment error like that. If it works at all it's making the machine work extra hard.
