Sorry but if you downloaded cura then you already have my profile. I dont change anything aside from support infill %, nornal infill %, and layer height depending on what i print
You should print a strain relief for the bowden/ wires on the hotend. You will also notice a massive quality improvement if you add a second cooling fan to the other side.
Just ordered the 5 Plus and all your recommended improvements, especially the silent board! Thanks for the advice. It’ll be a great upgrade from my Ender 3 and other smaller ones I have. I’ll keep those for smaller jobs.
Hello! Ender 5 & 5 plus owner here love the printers and all content related to them. Keep it up. Any content/upgrades with these printers will always peek my interest. I wish I can get another lol. Good luck with your channel.
Thanks for the informative content! I've got an Ender 5 + that I've converted with a E3D Hemera direct drive hotend which improved the print quality as I don't have to deal with the bowden tube stuff any more. With a 0.8mm nozzle it also prints crazy fast! It easily does 1-1.2mm extrusion width if I'm in a real hurry.
@@Chriss_Workshop I'd really recommend going for the direct drive. The ability to print flexibles was definitely one of the deciding factors when I made the upgrade. I have a Prusa MK3, but I wanted the larger print volume of the Ender 5+ so I got that as well. Adding the Hemera really made it comparable to the Prusa in all regards.
So glad i came across this video. I was in fact looking at buying this printer just today and wanted to do some research on it first thank's this video really helped me make my mind up
@@Chriss_Workshop I have the ender 3 pro and make figure's and such for me and my friend's but I have always wanted to do more like busts full size prop's etc etc
Hi Chris, I recently (Sept 2021) got my Ender 5 plus and so far I'm loving it. As for the noise, it's not any worse than my FF Creator Pro 2. So far, out of the box, I love the prints I'm getting. I've upgraded to Capricorn tubing, the all metal extruder, and after watching your video, I've ordered the silent mainboard. I'm hitting the subscribe button, and I'm going to look through your other videos to check out tips and tricks for this printer. If you have any other tips, I'd love to hear them! Thanks!
Thanks! No real tips really. You've got all the upgrades i'd recommend and I have. I do plan on doing a large mod in the future when i have the funds to enlarge the build volume to 500 x 500 x 500
Hi Chris from AU me I got a 3 Max over all very close to the 5 But a few bucks cheaper {but you have to take into account the difference in the exchange rate ] for but for me it works out to be A Very Large saving Thanks Luving what I've seen so far Keep up the Great Work .P.s. the piece you sis on sizing the armor items was Very Useful
I'm pretty sure the Ender5 is actually a cartesian style printer? And that the CR10 (Bedslingers) are called i3 printers? CoreXY printers have belt driven x-y axes using two motors to help control one big belt system?
@@Chriss_Workshop it will be my very first purchase. I watched another review and it appears very loud. So i might go for the CR 200B. Looks slick for living room space. The dimensions im printing in inches ( 6x2x8) but I'm guessing the 8 inches side can lay on the XY plane
It can be made quieter. If thats your issue, look into sovol printers. Sovol sv03 i believe has the same build volume, comes with a silent board installed already, and is a bit cheaper
Nice review of the ender 5 plus. I was thinking of pull the trigger on that one, however, I was also considering the cr10s pro v2. When you said "it so nice I bought it twice" made me think. Any advice?
Honestly both are great. The ender 5+ is slightly bigger and also can print faster by default. And the bed only moving up and down means no wobble on thin prints. In my own opinion, i would suggest a 5+.
Selling my prusa mini today then I will be upgrading to an Ender 5 Plus. Glad I watched this first! Gonna have to order the capricorn bowden tube with it. Do you have any advice on the firmware change? Does creality have options to upgrade the firmware? Thanks for the advice!
Hi. Been looking to buy a 3d printer and doing some youtube research and come across you channel and love it so far. I was wondering if you could make a video showing how you installed those updates you bought for this printer as?
Replacing the capricorn tube is easy. Same with the metal extruder. I may do a silent motherboard video but since my machines are in a different room i dont see a need personally to get one
@@Chriss_Workshop hey thank you for getting back to me. I managed to find a few videos showing how to change those bits and you're right they do seem very easy to replace, a video on changing the motherboard could be interesting though if you ever feel the need. I do have one last question for you, would you say that this printer is a good one to start with if you're just getting into 3d printing? I'm hoping to use this printer for printing larger items. Thanks for your time and keep up the great work.
Hi there, thanks so much for this great video, as a true newbie I agree that it is completely overwhelming. I thought I was set on getting an Ender 5 +, but now I've also been thinking of the FLsun 400 as an option. I know this is an old video, but I'm hoping you might enlighten me further with a response. This is going to be my first ever 3D printer, that said, I'm not intimidated by swapping out mainboards or tinkering with firmware (I'm a quick study). That said, I'm using this to build prototype products from 3D models I build in Shapr3D, so I kind of need something reliable with high-quality prints (especially for printing gear assemblies). I can easily skimp on detail if I get quality in return, and though speed would be wonderful, it's not a deal breaker either. Print area however is more important. The product design I'm working on now needs at least 320 mm diameter build volume (z axis shouldn't be a problem), but if the FLsun 400 is THAT much better in all other respects, I could compromise that to design it to 300 mm, but it wouldn't be ideal. Since this is my first printer, and it's for prototyping, I'm trying to keep costs down but I'm willing to pay for quality and reliability. At the moment I've been oscillating between the CR-10 Max and the Ender 5 +, but the FLsun 400 has piqued my interest. Yeah, I'm just a jumble of confusion and need someone with more experience to advise me on what would be best for my needs. Hoping you can help???
So i cant speak to the flsun machines because i've never owned any. I hear good things but i dont promote stuff i have no personal experience with. The cr-10 max is a good machine but its nearly double the price of the ender 5+. Both have their uses, but unless you KNOW you'll 100% need the max's huge volume, i'd suggest the 5+. I would say look into the fl sun and 5+ and compare the two to see which fits your needs best
@@Chriss_Workshop I did a bit more research, and asked a few other 3D smart people, and ended up going with the FLSUN V400. The build volume is a smidge smaller than I would have wanted but the 400mm/s speed over compensates given that I’m prototyping with it, which involves many prints to test results. It also comes with klipper and a 7” touch screen out of the box, allowing for some advanced functionality. The Delta printer should “so I’ve been told” make for more reliable prints of larger parts since the bed doesn’t move. It is priced between the CR-10 Max and the Ender 5 but should need little upgrading and comes with a solid warrantee and customer support. It also has the capability to print a wider variety of materials, allowing me to evolve the machine from prototyping to early production (with the purchase of an enclosure). Thanks again for your advice and rapid response, much appreciated.
@@Chriss_Workshop Well yeah thats the first thing you should change on these printers IMO, most people stick around on the 50 mark cuz they don't know it can be many times faster or think it would break, i can understand that with the original noisy A4988 drivers tho, it gets so much louder when you crank the speeds, and most people don't know thats OK
why don't they just install the silent mainboard in them from the factory?? How does a motherboard make that much noise? How could a board even make noise???
Few things to answer here so please bear with me. They didnt install them from the factory at first because no one thought of silent drivers. They are preinstalled now with most machines which is why so many printers are so quiet these days. Next, motherboards dont make noise, the motors do. The motherboard has the drivers that tell the motors what to do. The silent boards have better drivers installed that communicate with the motors better so they run smoother. Smoother operation = quieter machine. Hope that helps
@@Chriss_Workshop thanks, I'm trying to find a decent large volume 3d printer on a budget and the ender 5 plus looks pretty good at $600 and I'm fine with upgrading the extruder and tubing for $20 but I don't also want to upgrade the board for $80. Now it's $700 and I already increased my budget $500. I'm far from making my final decision but tbh I think for $700 total it's still worth it for the value and for my needs because I want to make pretty large prints. I only started researching a day ago and today I've gone from looking at a small resin printer to this lol. Do you have any recommendations for large print volume?
I mean for a large volume i'd go with the ender 5+. However this is an older machine now. Frankly Built uploaded a video on good machines for each price point a month or two ago. I highly recommend giving it a watch
do u ever print above 260c these printers are stuck on 260 and i have no clue how to up that since i got the micro swiss direct drive setup with the all metal hotend
@@Chriss_Workshop pc-abs , PC some nylons needs temps right around 270 to 290, but alot of the times when u want to print faster u need to melt faster so u need to turn that heat up
Hey it's not a core XY printer just to let you know each axis has its own individual motor instead of a core XY printer where both motors are needed to move in just one axis. I would call the ender 5 a gantry style printer
15 seconds in, i state it is an imitation corexy. Because more associate the square frame with a core xy machine which is the only reason i stated that. Im very much aware it is a cartesian machine
@@Chriss_Workshop hey no worries I can see why that would make sense to people. I just thought it was a bit misleading, rest of the vid had some good information.
Im curious why you say that as well. While i'll agree creality has a spotty record with quality, all of my machines are creality and they work wonderfully
Ender 3. Its reliable and cheap. But it depends what your wanting to print. If you want to make bigger stuff for props, an ender 3 max, cr-10 v2, or ender 5+
@@Chriss_Workshop the problems I’ve had with creality printers are unbelievable it would be a whole story if I were to type it out long story short I fix the problem now a new problem occurs I fix the new problem and the first problem I fixed comes back and the cycles continues with many problems adding I know a lot of people with creality and they never had these problems it’s probably just my luck
I bought an Ender 5 Plus about 6 months ago, was using an Anet A8 previously as a starter printer. I haven't upgraded anything besides the silent board since it's in my bedroom and can sleep now without all the whirring going on. What do you use to clean your glass bed? I've heard IPA will damage the bed and have been using warm water and dawn dish soap, just wondering what you had.
Honestly ipa works perfectly fine. But yeah warm water and dish soap. I find i really dont need to clean it often, and soap and water works so well i havent really experimented with any other ways
Thank you for the video, I know I’m a little late to the party here but I was gonna purchase a $300 ender 5+ that is still in the box on eBay. In 2024 is it still a good value? I’m not sure if it has the silent motherboard or not or what has or has not been upgraded? Do the newer models have more standard features like direct drive, duel gear, all metal hot end, PEI built plates, and silent motherboards? Thank you 🙏
I got my Ender 5 plus and started printing, my first benchy I noticed I'm getting these annoying blobs/ zits and can't do anything to fix them, l've used brand new filament, used a good quality San disk micro sd and played around with settings, is my printer defective and should I return it?
The machine isnt at fault. Sometimes your filament needs tweaking. Basically you run at different temps to find out at which point it comes out the smoothest. The blobs and zits might mean its running too hot, so the filament is flowing out a bit faster than it should. Also make sure the parts fan is on and blowing on the nozzle
I know this is an older video of yours, but I just recently picked up this printer and I am wondering what kind of timing it takes to print those helmets out. I put a full, similar sized helmet into the software and it's telling me 110 hours and 22 minutes. What settings could possibly be used to speed that up a bit? I'm not going to run the printer for 110 hours and 22 minutes for one print. That just feels way to risky. I've seen claims that 4 to 6 hours for a full helmet print. What settings get one of these, to that kind of print time?
4 hour helmet? Sorry but thats b.s. unless its for an action figure. You can have the machine run faster. Maybe 70 or 80 mm/s print speed. Also put a larger nozzle on it like a .6. Also playing with support infill as well as the helmets infill. But theres absolutely no way to make a helmet that fast, sorry.
Is there something you'd recommend to mitigate the cooling bed when the print pauses? I know you mentioned firmware updating, but is there something already out there?
honestly not sure. i've not really looked into it too much. ive noticed my newer machines dont cool down when paused so im sure a firmware update would fix things. but i just havent tried
Hey Chris, awesome stuff. I just got the 5+ yesterday in the UK. Do you think there's a chance its already got the v2.2.1 TMC 2208 Mainboard_? How could I check_? Cheers :)
i tried capricorn but it caused under extrusion and jams as its too tight on the filament. maybe if i buy $30 rolls of pla i might not have a issue but with the $10-15 rolls i get the standard white works. even when printing tpu i get no issues. only thing i had to do to my e3 max is add capricorn tube right at the extruder fitting almost touching the extruder gear to keep it from jaming
Why are some retailers for this product offer a meanwell psu for $40 as an upgrade option? I thought that was standard. So if I don't choose the upgrade does it just not come with a psu?
I think they're clearing out old stock. Every machine ive seen shipped in groups im in all have upgraded psu's. If you dont upgrade it may just come with a normal one. Theres no way they'll ship a machine with no psu installed at all
If you only make small things, i'd recommend an ender 3 and save yourself some money. This is more for if your printing larger things. You can print small on here, but if you never make anything larger than 4-5 inches, theres a lot of wasted money on build volume
Creality has issues with quality control. This can happen sometimes. But 99% of the time its fixable yourself. Theres also a large community of creality users that all help each other fix stuff all the time
are you able to show us you printing and wearing a helmet made on the ender 5 plus? i wanna know if it can print wearable helmets in one print without having to slice and do multiple pieces
@@Chriss_Workshop thank you bud. I will be buying the ender 5 plus in January. I have the ender 5 pro and love it. But I want to print helmets in one piece . So I will max out usage of my ender 5 pro until January unless I get a stupid good deal on Black Friday or cyber Monday
I'm starting to suspect there's a conspiracy here with all of the good reviews. I've had this printer for 2 weeks and haven't gotten a single good print out of it yet, even when I can get it to print at all. The BLtouch doesn't work. It goes through a lengthy routine and then the nozzle sits 10mm above the platform and starts printing in midair. Manual levelling doesn't work either because there isn't enough adjustment in the manual screws to get the bed within an appropriate distance to the nozzle. The filament sensor has such a small opening or else some sort of obstruction, so you can't feed filament through it. I have been unable to load filament without disconnecting the Boden tube at both ends and manually feeding the filament into the extruder. Is this normal? Even for those of you who have managed to tweek your Ender 5's to get decent prints, you must admit that the drive belts are really chintzy and rubbing on the frame, these things are going to wear out quickly.
So with the air printing, you have to adjust the z axis until it gets close enough, when i built mine they did the same thing. The filament sensor issue can be worked with by cutting your filament at a 45 degree angle so theres a point to it, then rolling it in your fingers as you feed with through the sensor. The issue is creality. The machine is great but the "conspiracy" is thay creality has really poor quality control. So theres a chance you just happened to get a bad machine. I've been printing aith mine for a year now. And yes i'll have an issue here and there. But at least for me its always been user error. I'll find out what made the print fail, realize it was my fault, and fix it
it will be z axis offset, i suggest finding a random object thats about the same hight as the gap your getting, then changing the z axis offset it a little, then check your going in the right direction.. and then you can repeat working your way down till you get to just off the bed with the nozzle.
Its not just you. I never got a single print out of the one I had. BLTouch was trash and the nozzle and bed never got within 6 inches of each other. Replaced damn near everything troubleshooting. A crappy dud. Numerous others I know have their BLTouch fail and it bricks the whole unit. Cant use it without it (as of last year IIRC)
Look at my most recent video where i compared 5 different printers. Every machine i've showcased on my channel can 100% do the same quality. If you wanna see how detailed any of these machines can get, look at my aitbrushing video
Right here Creality Upgraded Ender 5 Plus Silent Mainboard, Silent Motherboard with TMC2208 Driver, Customized Super Quiet Mute Board for CR-10S/ CR-10 S4/ CR-10 www.amazon.com/dp/B085DM75Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_LND1qSj6tDpXf
So i dont keep up with all the printers out there because so many have come out. However i still use mine, and the silent upgrade is basically needed. Its still a good machine in my opinion and worth looking at
@Chriss_Workshop bought this machine the day after watching this video along with the silent drive and metal extruder for $350. Its been an absolute machine. Have fast have you pushed it on prints? It seems to handle 80 mms fine with good quality
See this is where I disagree, my ender 3 pro prints at 120mm/s with absolutely no issue to quality or structural integrity. I do have direct drive which probably helps but my printer is sonic speed
Direct drive 100% helps because you can also cut down time from retractions. Which bowden style printers have issues with. However this is all stock. I have an ender 3 pro. Technically a handfull of them. But without modifying them, a nornal customer will think it can only print 60-80 mm/s. This is all stock for the sake of the video. Aside from the bowden tube upgrade and silent board. I can most likely get the same speed with ny ender 5+'s but havent tried. This is all just what you get from the box and going from default cura settings.
@@Chriss_Workshop yeah this video we extremely helpful though because I just purchased an ender 5 plus. It’s on the way here and I took your suggestion and just bought Capricorn tubing and a metal extruder. Great videos man!
When my bl touch doesnt work its usually because it his the frame when turning it on. The bl touch needs to be able to freely extend and retract the peg when first starting up. Also sometimes just a quick power cycle usually fixes it
Those cost a few thousand dollars i think. I believe prusa made something. I dont have any multi material printers so i really cant recommend anything off hand
Man had two tronxy printers and both where returned withing days. Horrible leveling nightmare. I'm deff staying away from that company. Just because it has a bigger build volume does not mean better. Lesson learned.
Tronxy printers are complete garbage. Never buy them unless to use as a frame for a completely custom build like making a voron or something. But i can at least say the ender 5+ is a gpod product. It has its issues at times, creality is far from perfect. But at least with my experience i like mine and a few of my friends who have them like them too
@@Chriss_Workshop I got the Creality metal extruder and capricorn kit and silent board on its way. I record VR game vids and it will be in the same space....
No one should ever buy a creality. I bought this printer on Amazon and was sold by creality on Amazon. The bltouch didn't work and the bed is really warped. I sent an email to creality for support with my order number on amazon only to get a generic reply of "you should contact the seller on Amazon and they will help you" I will just return it to Amazon and leave a negative review. Seriously don't waste your time on creality.
Creality has bullshit customer support. I'll never deny that. But their machines are easy to work on. I have 8 creality machines with a 9th preordered and honestly they all work amazingly. And when any go down for any reason its an easy fix and its back to printing.
@@Chriss_Workshop not much work can be done on a warped bed. Really hoping I can get a person on the phone today as from the reviews I've seen it looks like a real good printer but if not I'll return it and never buy creality again.
Granted your comment was so bland its hard to tell if your just spamming to hate everyone. For example. What does "this subject" mean to you? Worst review video ever? Or worst in 3d printing? Worst ender 5 plus video? All you've successfully done is confuse me as opposed to upset or insult me as i think was your actual intention. So please let me know, what were you looking for exactly?
@@Chriss_Workshop you make it seem like a simple thing to level out an ender 5 plus. Its so fucking hard. I have one and it took me months to level it out and perfect my prints.
I own 9 machines. To me it is easy. Reading the BL touch's display also helps a lot. You first use the paper method. Moving the nozzle to each corner then using paper to make sure the nozzle is very close witbout touching. You do that for each corner, then once again to dial in further. Then you have the bl touch measure points. You can use the readout afterwords to further dial it in. So your issue with my video was with the bed leveling. Now i feel we're getting somewhere. I didnt make this video specifically to focus on how to level a bed, only to review the printerm if you'd like i can make a video right now showing step by step exactly how to get it perfectly leveled
No. But i've never had any issues with that. In the winter it gets pretty cold in there. And in the summer it roasts. However i've never seen it affect my printers
Horrible printer and company. My Ender 5 decided to change menus to Chinese. The almost non-existing support insisted that I open the main processor box to identify the motherboard. Idiots! They sold me the printer directly and the information (SN etc) was not sufficient for them. They then provided a new firmware that did not solve the problem. This was months ago and the printer is now out of warranty. I'd have to learn Chinese or toss it out. I do not recommend this printer or Creality.
Creality has basically non exsistant customer support. But the communities help a lot. I would've reached out to a facebook or discord group for help. I know many people with this machine and it runs just fine. It is a bit dated now as theres better machines coming out all the time. But i still stand by my statement that its a fine machine
@@Chriss_Workshop: You are also ignoring the fact that this "fine machine" is amazingly noisy. Creality sold these machines while at the same time offering a "quiet" replacement board for an extra ~$69. IMO this is somewhat underhanded; why ship a crappy product when you know how to fix it? I regret to say that IMO it is fair to question your recommendation when you couple the fact that they can't write software with the lack of technical support and the poor quality of the various components.
Several 3d printers are noisy. Anker's latest printer can be compared to a jet engine. It isnt software, its the modules that run the stepper motors drivers. But im not gonna argue this. You clearly hate creality and their machines. I dont get paid by them, or anyone for that matter. So i wont fight to change your mind. I just wanted to make a fair review of my 2 ender 5+'s because i like them. And i feel i did my part. Im not sorry you dont like them. Just sucks to see so much negativity
@@Chriss_Workshop: The negativity reflects my experience and it could useful for prospective buyers. I have two Ender 3's that have been working without a problem. They are extremely primitive with Byzantine software but they work. I had a CR-10 that was so bad that I gave it away for parts. What "sucks" is to see a company that could have been the DJI of printers but is the exact opposite.
