In each of my videos, I try to include links to the exact parts I used for my projects. This is for two reasons: 1) I want to make it easy for you to find the parts if you choose to do the project. 2) If I link you to the EXACT part I used then I can almost promise you'll have similar results. I always try to avoid linking to "similar" parts because I have not tested them personally. With that being said, I have noticed that sometimes Amazon or their resellers will swap the part in the link for a similar part. Unfortunately, this is completely out of my control and I don't find out about it until someone complains or I just happen to notice. I always try to post the specs of the item in the description or talk about it in the video. Always verify what you're ordering! Check the specs and make sure the product is still correct. I apologize for any inconveniences but it really is out of my control.
Trust me when I say I have watched many of your videos and I love them they are very informative. The only problem is that I just got the ender 5 plus and most of the things that you complained about, creality has fixed most of the problems (like the power supply the printer came with a meanwell). It took a little while to get the profile but its in cura I'm going to test it out.
Thanks for the links to the fans and connectors for the Hero Me parts. One thing missing that I was hoping for is a link to a screw kit for the parts but I'm on the hunt now. Just thought I'd point it out as others may also benefit in the future.
Do you loose z height when installing the antibacklash nuts that way? I just installed mine and looks like it looses 10mm about. Why not install them in the orientation that the original brass nuts were? I don't think the orientation of the nut would matter right?
@@blitz355 I realize this is a long time after the fact, but I just installed the recommended plastic lead screw nuts with the anti-backlash springs. I tried the orientation indicated here, but found the springs have to support the entire weight of the bed, which makes actually worse than stock. Flipping the nuts over however leads to the lead screw not being long enough. I had to clamp the drive shaft of the stepper motors much higher than stock so there was enough lead screw for the smaller end of the nut to stay engaged when starting a print. Neglect to do this, and you'll be hunting for a spring and a little black nut.
3:50 - Upgrade #1, Bowden Tube 6:26 - Upgrade #2, Nozzle 9:28 - Installing Upgrades #1 & #2 11:16 - Before/After Test Prints 12:08 - Upgrade #3, All Metal Extruder 14:46 - Before/After Test Prints 15:52 - Upgrade #4, Lead Screw Nut 20:43- Before/After Test Prints 22:16 - Upgrade #5, Part Cooler 28:10 - Before/After Test Prints 30:51 - Review
Thank you for the first part of this video. There are so many Facebook groups and Reddit threads of people asking to solve a problem and they ended up doing 5+ upgrades at the same time and then have no clue where to start.
I have to say that this RU-vid channel help me being completely lost, to “holy crap I can’t believe I printed that”! I honestly didn’t think this ENDER 3 Plus could print like this. It’s completely unreal how amazing this printer is.
I did not only replace the plastic by a metal extruder but on a Bond-Tech BMG extruder which is way better than the regular metal extruder by using a dual drive.
The ultimate upgrade for the Ender 5 plus is a tie between the silent main board and direct drive extruder. Nice vid, but I am surprised you missed both of these.
Having an archived version of the hero me 3 is a life saver. I had looked at newer versions but hate how the hot end does not mount directly to the plate anymore and has a huge spacer there instead.
Another note. I own a Bondtech BMG and thought I'd replace the plastic extruder with that. No go, the body of the BMG covers one of the screws that attaches the extruder/filament out bracket so it won't mount. Even if it did the in hole of the BMG doesn't at all match the out hole on the filament sensor. a custom mounting plate would be needed.
This is a great vid. My E5 plus prints like a champ out of the box I am really impressed with how good the quality is over my previous printer. (FLSun Q5) So far I've only done Capricorn tube and 0.6m nozzle, so 15 bucks worth of upgrades - adjusted retract to 30mm/s from 25. That's it! Took a few prints over to my dad earlier and he was like: wow. Next job is cooling and quiet board for sure (i want to make it quieter) so just downloaded the minefield that is the Hero Me zip file.
20:19 I myself use the Printer's X axis Gantry for setting the Z axis heights on both sides. Check first at the at the Lead Screw locations, then check the outer areas, in case the Z axis/bed mount bar might be bent as you move out further near the slides & end, or the main frame is tweaked or the mounting locations of each Z axis units are not 100 Percent identical. That way it is parallel to the gantry with the extruder.
That's a great idea and technically more accurate than my way. Let's just hope my frame is square! To the point, luckily I still have to manually level the bed which should square anything else up.
@@kerseyfabs Ya, after i did the Z axis off the Gantry, I then did the initial manual bed adjustment off the Gantry also, before firing it up for the first time & using the software & paper. Just to try to have everything close & hoping for a easy go at it.
Great video Kris, I've done a few of these upgrades now on my printer. One thing I would recommend as a 6th upgrade is lowering the front crossbar. That drove me bonkers for months until I sorted it out. I can finally see the print getting done. I've found it really helpful for just monitoring the first couple of layers.
I know this is old, but that plastic extruder arm is and always will be a "must change". It breaks in the rear at the pivot point causing massive underextrusion. Some break right away, some after quite a while. But it's a printable fix that takes < 1hr, or as you mentioned, you can buy a metal one cheap. It will save a ton of headache and confusion since you can't actually see that it's broken without removing it.
Thanks for sharing these and I CANNOT WAIT to try the replacement POM Anti-backlash Nut upgrade you showed! My Ender-5 Plus was/is making horrible squeaking noises when moving the Z-axis bed up/down in certain places. White lithium grease has helped some, but I am looking for something better, so thanks!
Upgrading everything you suggested except the part cooler. Fingers crossed this gets me the accuracy I am looking for on this new 5 plus! So far between your videos and Teaching Tech my quality has improved drastically. Thanks!
I gotta thank you again for all the stuff you share with the community! Ive gotten some great info tha helped from you and all that you do in the groups and chats as well! cheers to you!
Not sure if it applies to 3D printers with twin screws... but in automation applications on production lines where twin+ screws are used, having one with slight play is pretty normal. It helps prevent wear on either screw by preventing excessive force/friction if there's minor misalignment. As I say... this is in regards to significantly larger/longer screws 🤷♂️
The capricorn tube has one big issue. You cant use cheaper filament. I bought one and i wasnt happy with the tube. you always need the perfect filament. The second rocket looks better and the herme 2 gen3 is the best fan ever. Great work again. Thanks :)
Great video. Thanks for all the information. Doing the before and after is something that I always think about after. Thanks for taking the time to do this. You're doing great things.
awesome! =D i think that that printer should have a direct drive buying option because even if one uses a high quality bowden tube, it is still waaaay too long and requires quite a bit of tuning.
Your videos helped me very much with my ender 5 plus and all the upgrades,very informative, excellent explanations and everything, thank you very much Kersey!!!
Thanks very much for this video I was having trouble finding the correct cooler head with the two radials this made it alot easier :) keep up the great work!
Great videos, Good Information well explained and much appreciated. After watching all your videos I ended up on deciding to add an ender 5 plus to my collection. And I was able to make an informed decision on what to order for upgrades before the unit even shipped. And as a bonus it shipped with a meanwell powersupply. Something I wouldn't have even known to look for if not for your videos. Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Every time i have to change filament during a bring (usually larger ones that take 1.3-1.8 kg) i always get layer shift. the print always seems to shift back towards the rear of the machine, and I've taken extra steps to avoid touching the print and the bed because i did not that the print bed does move very easily. I added more clips and ran tape along the edges to better secure it. I access filament and change it from the side and even moved the spool holder to hang off to the side to afford me more room to work. I have made sure the X and Y were properly homed, i re ran my wiring thinking maybe something got in the way and tricked the hotend into thinking it had homed when it really had not. The prints are 100% adhered to the bed, and the bed itself is no longer moving, so i have removed those as potential causes. I ensured that nothing was hitting the end stops that shouldn't be, and i am still seeing this albeit less severe. any thoughts on this? I am not opposed to swapping out anything, and am more than capable to do any upgrade, wiring, etc that needs be done, i just can't find the source of this shift to be able to apply a solution to it. The only thing i can think is that these larger prints (protoman helmet from thingiverse at 120% for example) might be over running the stock boards capacity? or maybe a stepper voltage is off?
That's really strange. The most common cause of this would be bumping the X/Y gantry or the gantry slightly moving due to pushing and pulling filament out. On the stock firmware, the run-out process is controlled by the display. This means if you're not happy with its operation, you could swap the display for a 12864 display (Marlin text) and then rebuild the firmware to let Marlin handle filament run-out which _may_ be more reliable.
Hi Kris, I have an old cocoon create i3 touch printer and hopefully move to sla printing soon. I have followed your videos for a long time and think that you have an ability to cover everthing thoroughly and methodically. Keep up the top grade reviews and how to videos, they are a great help here in Brisbane ,Queensland ,Australia. Very very good work. John Hennessy.
Hey! You've been an amazing help with the 5 Plus so far, there just doesn't seem to be much material out there on it specifically. In this video you mention adjusting the e-steps and calibrating the extruder, but I can't find anywhere that has information on how to do that with the firmware on the 5+. Is there anywhere you have by chance made a video or have information on how to do that with the touch screen firmware? Everything I find is for the 3 or 5 with completely different settings options than I have.
Thank you! The trick with the E5+ is that it has to be done via hooking up the USB cable to your computer since the display doesn't have the setting. Then you can set the values via g-code commands. I plan to do a series of short tutorials. This one is going to be at the top of the list.
@@kerseyfabs that would be beyond helpful. I seem to have some fairly nasty extrusion issues, and I'm sure a lot of it has to do with the flow rate and retraction levels, but all of that seems tied into calibrating the extruder. Learning all of this is an absolute blast, but the info that exists for the 5+ is EXTREMELY limited at this point. A tutorial on how to connect and update all that would be extremely helpful! Hitting on subscribe now!
@@caseyfrederick9887 Totally agree. Great video first of all. Taping into upgrading the firmware would help especially doing the upgrade you suggested. Thank you
At the end of this video, you mention that you're going to do a video on upgrading the electronics. I've nearly finished upgrading my E5P with a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209s. It's very non-trivial. For one thing, it's impossible to keep the existing DWIN screen with the current (2.0.4.4) Marlin release. I've switched to a BTT TFT35-3.0. As time goes by, I'm learning to appreciate its ugly 12864 mode more than it's slick touch-screen mode. If you like, we can exchange notes on the process.
Thanks Don for the offer. You're absolutely right about it being non-trivial and about the display swap being a must. Not only from a functional perspective do you need to change out the display but you also gain so much control from the traditional LCD. Feel free to drop me an e-mail or message me on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with your details. My contact info is in the description. Thanks!
How did you compile the Marlin firmware? I just bought the same setup for my E5P, but am having serious trouble finding configuration.h files for the Plus. The other Enders are easy to find, but the Plus seems conspicuously absent from the 'examples' file. Any insight you could provide would be *greatly* appreciated!
@@jetthreat5000 - I'd be happy to share my notes and config files. I'm not sure how best to do it. I'm sure my config files aren't perfect, but they're close enough that I'm printing with them.
my plastic extruder broke a few days ago. I got horrible filament off amazon that broke and got stuck in my tube causing the motor to continue spinning and adding force pushing the tube to pull it until it cracked from what i can tell since i wasnt home. i upgraded mine for 20$ or so for a metal one. Highly recommend it because of the amount of damage it can do if it does end up cracking. Not something i thought would ever be an issue until it happened.
Great video! Thanks again for showcasing my Hero Me cooling system. I'm sorry you had the issue with the lightweight 5015 ducts. When I completed them I had not fully tested the dual setup with the other options (BLTouch and EZABL mounts) before I had to take a break for a few months. There's a couple great remixes that resolve the spacing issue for the BLTouch mount when used with the lightweight ducts. I can't take credit (or blame) for your choice of the 40mm fan shield as that is not my design. ;) There are now some brands of 5015 fans where the width of the exhaust port has changed. I am currently testing with TH3DStudios.com a revision of the Gen 3 cooling ducts to allow for these slightly larger 5015 fans. I hope to have them posted in the next week or so.
Thanks for stopping by again MediaDog. I'm still quite happy with the solution. Switching back to the joined fans was no big deal. It just took a little extra time.
I was sold on your design thanks to his videos and that is hat I will be running with now. Any chance gen 3 V6 parts will be on the way soon?(or even dream, Mosquito).
@@kerseyfabs Here is the BLTouch mount remix for the Hero Me to work with the light weight 5015 parts you wanted to use in the first place in your video: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3884550
Take it from me. Got less than 3 months into 3d printing. Ordered first 3d printer. Was like well damn upgrades are cheap. I ordered like everything no f's given. Well I got 2, 3d printers now. One untouched and one modded to hell. That has all sorts of problems that I had to learn to fix cause I went crazy with upgrades. I got them both working but a lot of upgrades barely do anything imo and give you problems if you don't know anything about 3d printing. Except make it quieter. Feels nice to see printer being silent as the print fails knowing at least it's quiet now.
Pt. 4 The new spring/knob configuration may not result in any significant improvement now, but I would assume that the risk of a failed print later on, due to a shift will be less? Pt. 5 How much weight would you estimate that the new cooling configuration add? My main concern here would be that the added mass could cause some additional wiggle when the gantry (?) including the extruder assembly, moves back and forth. Have you tried configuring "Linear Advance" on the Ender 5 Plus? Teaching Tech has a video showing quite and improvement on corners and edges. Also, you seem focus mainly on stringing, but I couldn't help notice that the layering on the final tubby came out a lot smoother than the initial print. One thing I miss is an overview of the estimated cost of each upgrade and if you thing the upgrade is worth it. Maybe you could at it at the end of the 2nd (last?) video? Thank you for putting out this video. Looking forward to the next one :)
Pt. 4 - That's correct. Pt. 5 - I have you covered! Check out my video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nGxC0QkL4Mc.html I included the timecode to the graph in case you didn't want to watch the entire thing. I can tell you from my experience that I haven't noticed any additional print artifacts. I have conservative jerk and acceleration settings.
Kris, Thanks for the video. I'm working on a complete upgrade on mine. I won't be using any of the parts you suggested, except maybe the POM fittings. The best advice you gave me was to do one upgrade at a time and check the results. I have been more - tear it all apart and rebuild with all new parts. I will follow your advice. Now have to plan the process. Keep up the good work.
I see people pulling out rulers and calipers all the time and trying to wedge them into various places.......for instance, when I measure the distance between my hotbed and it's support plate i initially found it to be ~15 mm and that's generally where it stays. It's profoundly annoying trying to read a vernier caliper when it's facing away from you because you have to measure the same spot in 4 corners. Do yourself a favour and grab a piece of metal, wood, or print a small bar with a handle you can use as your 'standard' measurement and keep it handy. When levelling the bed it's not so much the 'measurement' it's about having the 'same measurement'. This method is the most accurate.
I liked the video. I just got mine and have been going through and getting it set up for service now. I did want to make one comment though. Backlash compensation on the z axis should be completely unnecessary. This is because the bed moves fairly freely under gravity and the accelerations in the z moves are nowhere near gravitational accelerations. Thus there is always a downwards force that pushes the bed down onto the lead screws. This will keep the bed registered on the right side of the screw unless there is binding in the bed or somehow you get the accelerations so high that you exceed 1 g. I suspect that is why you didn't see any improvement in your prints after upgrading. Save the money and put it elsewhere.
Thanks! I actually agree with you unless you're using pretty agressive Z-hop. 👍 I recommend switching to POM to end the notorious squeaking. I use the ant-backlash just to tighten up the tolerances. It may not be necessary but if I'm replacing, might as well.
@@kerseyfabs yeah... If i cant solve some of the print quality issues maybe ill try that. I put white lithium grease on the threads and it stopped squeaking.
I would love you know more about the eateps . Also it’s a shame that the bed cools down when the sensor detects the filament running out. I also appreciate your comments about how people should test their printers first before modifying them many people on Facebook groups modify their end or three’s as soon as they get them out of the box before even testing them first.
Pasted from another reply: "Thank you! The trick with the E5+ is that [e-steps have] to be done via hooking up the USB cable to your computer since the display doesn't have the setting. Then you can set the values via g-code commands. I plan to do a series of short tutorials. This one is going to be at the top of the list."
hey, greetings from Germany. I am currently installing a Skr 1.4 with tmc2209 drivers in my Ender 5 Plus. just try to get the standard display to work, thanks for the helpful videos. keep it up !
I still haven't gotten a pin-out on that display from Creality, so I can't help you. If you find someone else that's figured it out, let me know. I plan to replace the display. It's missing too many features anyway.
I don't know at this point if they make a huge quality difference but it solves the squeaking problem a lot of people have and the motion of the Z screws is just smoother in general.
fantastic. I was looking for a good printer review and upgrade guide for getting into hobby busts as well as doodads and thingums for around the house and fixes with CF nylon filament for more sturdy purpose-built solutions. I see now the why behind the whats and loved the logical and practical approach. Thanks!
Three years later, and the 300x300x300 K1 Max now as an option .... would you recommend an upgraded Ender 5 Plus, ignoring the slightly larger build plate traded off against the K1 Max on-board features ???
I just went with this upgrade for cooling. I decided on the gen 3 because i didnt want to move my CR touch. My problem i am having is now my nozzle temp will get to 201 Celsius and then stall out. I can shut the cooling fan off and it will reach the proper temp. But the ender 5 plus defaults to cooling fan on while heating up.
2 year old video, but it still helps. I just recently purchased this printer and assembled it today. Tested out a pre-file of a rabbit with hardly any issues. Some small string between the eyes and a little roughness. I did an extra orde for the Tubing, nozzle and the Extruder and swapped out the stock so far and tested. 2nd print is a fireplace with small details and have no stings, but still have a little roughness. Should I move forward and do steps 4 and 5? Would that make the difference for the roughness? Also thank you for the education, tutorial and all that for this printer. This made my decision to buy. Thank you 👍
I love your videos but the idea that loose nuts on lead screws that are free-floating at the top have anything to do with lateral stability lost me. The squeaking and squealing of those brass nuts is reason enough to upgrade. They may not improve your prints but they will preserve your sanity. Those 4 steel guide rods keep your bed stable, not the lead screws. If anything, new lead screws could possibly improve your z positioning accuracy, but I doubt the nuts are that sloppy. Keep up the good work and I'll keep watching. Thanks.
Direct drive does not come without trade-offs usually. 1) They add a lot of weight to the gantry and can slow down printing for similar quality, especially when the whole gantry moves. 2) They are more involved for people with less experience to install. I know the cooler is also involved but I tried to keep them easy and the Hero Me does have simpler options.
@@kerseyfabs I've read about weight being a tradeoff but the articles I've read seem to concurr that there is a net gain in most cases. Also, in the Ender 5 series weight of the extrude system isn't an issue because the Z axis motor isn't moving the extrude system. Only the X & Y motors move the extrude system and they see only the mass not the weight. Direct drive will be my first mod when my Ender 5 arrives. Besides increased efficiency, I've been told I need direct drive and all metal hot end to use carbon fiber reinforced nylon filament.
Could you do a video on the cable management for the ender 5 plus? There are not any good tutorials on RU-vid for this using drag chains like I want to use
Thanks for the video but on the leadscrews did you try the POM nuts that were not anti Backlash? Reason I ask is on a Z axis since the weight already loads the nut there is no need for antibacklash on a Z axis. In fact the added drag of the spring could cause inconsistency and have my hysteresis (lost motion) between each screw. Your thoughts on this?
Hey Marc! I do have the non-anti-backlash nuts and they do work of course. The only reason I added the anti-backlash is because I thought it would help with rigidity and reduce some potential issues with z-hop. I think the motors have plenty of torque due to the shallow angle of the screws to resist and drag created. If I had more time, I would love to test accuracy of both solutions using a gauge.
Tryed this upgrade and one side of the bed keeps dropping just a little. Micron 14 on one side and it drops to 15.5 on the other I am not sure if it is the nuts or the cuppler as it just slips a little and you can watch the moter turn and it stops at the 15.5 mark. Any ideas or sujestions on this?
I am wondering iff every 3d printer owner will let thoose test boats to float away in nearest river at same time then how soon there will be a big mountain off thoose in ocean?:-)))
Silly question. This is my first time upgrading the cooling component and wanted to know where you get the screws for the one-piece BLTouch_adj_mount_dual_fan part.
I'd buy screw assortments in the beginning that should have what you need for a number of projects. Something like this: amzn.to/3NjZxo1 Unless you know exactly what you need.
Here you go: PLA: drive.google.com/file/d/1q6kF3OXzcyDK_gIoXxw2yvWRd2lUABmB/view?usp=drive_link PETG: drive.google.com/file/d/1tOlskgASv8PaFmRkQrnnwR3uwi29tB68/view?usp=drive_link You may need to adjust the retraction distance based on your extruder.
I'm very much looking forward to the next 5 Plus video!! I've been researching my face off looking for my first printer (total noob), and so far this one is winning the race. But what mods it needs out of the box is the big question, and this video helps a lot. I hear the PSUs in these things are total poop if they aren't Meanwell, so I wonder if that should be on the list as well, along with that silent board option. Those Creality PCBs look pretty 'minimal' (aka cheap), so I'm very interested in the upcoming video on that subject. Keep up the good (and detailed!) work!
I've definitely seen that some people have had power supply issues and this one surely isn't top notch. I haven't proactively replaced mine yet since it seems to be doing just fine so far. If anyone chooses to though, I completely understand. I know that others have had questions about the reliability of the Creality boards. Again, I have not personally had one die on me and I've been running the silent board in my regular Ender 5 for some time now. I think their silent board is still a valid options. I'll be covering two other options though in my video.
Thanks! Sorry about the speed. It's always difficult to find the right balance without the video taking too long. In my next video on coolers, I'll try to take a bit more time.
thanks for saving the gen 3 files, i have it on the ender 3's i have and wanted for the ender 5 plus. its a good mount. the news ones are just to complex
Kris, thank you for your great vids. I have the ender 5 plus, and have completed a couple of the top 5 upgrades. All worked well before and after upgrade! An issue has just appeared. I am trying to print a flat bottom print approx 300mm x 300mm. The first 4 were fine no adhesion issues with no skirt or brim. The last three attempts have resulted in warping, so I added a brim to see if that helped. This is where the issue really became apparent. The brim prints but has poor adhesion. I have tried levelling the bed 3 times and it seems fine, and have adjusted the amount of resistance to the test paper from tight to able to just slide between the tip and bed. Each time much the same happens, back right side has rough to touch surface and after about 6 rounds of the brim starts to lift and is quite hard and is twisted off the bed on the right angle of the brim. Tried items from 195 to 205 and 55 to 65. Do you have any suggestions, you assistance would be greatly appreciated. I am sure its a simple enough thing I'm missing. Latest Cura for slicing.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad they're working for you. There's a couple of things. 1) Make sure you're using the auto bed leveling on a piece that big. It will need an accurate mesh. 2) If you're printing on the glass side of the build plate, wash with dish detergent and hot water. Dry with paper towels. Don't touch with your fingers. If you're printing on the textured side, I think cleaning with IPA will be your best bet. 3) Curling corners usually means too close, so I'd back off a bit. I hope this helps.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks Kris. I will use the auto bed levelling as suggested, I have been using the smooth side of the build plate, it seems to offer better adhesion and have been washing as per your suggestion. Thanks again, I look forward to a more successful next print. Stay Safe. Bill
So layout the principals and steps for the upgrade process then completely disregard them ? Is tubing diameter the problem? What is the test and how do you determine the problem is fixed? Because the diameter is now smaller?
I'm sorry. Did I fall short in one of my descriptions? The inner diameter of the tubing is the problem. With too much extra space in there, the retraction is loose an can be sloppy. This can result in stringing and other artifacts. You can test to see how this affects your prints by running example prints, particularly stringing test or tests that results in "zits" and seeing if they've improved. If you don't have such issues, there is probably no reason to upgrade the tubing. Although, it can also sometimes allow for shorter retractions which are quicker.
If I remember correctly, when I published this top 5, I didn't have a favorite silent board yet. If I chose one now, it would probably be the E3 Turbo.
Replacing a Cre ality cr-10s with either an Ender 5 pro or a Plus (already have an E3 Pro). Was on the fence about which one but after seeing you are wearing the same glasses as me I've taken it as a sign and said screw it, Plus it is ! :) As a side not I literally get perfect prints on both, I just need something new to play with. I print literally everything at 0.2 Nozzle, 0.08 layer as I need the quality
Congrats man! And cool on the glasses! Given that you already have those other two I would have definitely recommended the Plus. You have good experience with Creality printers and I'm sure you can figure out how to use the extra print volume. Happy printing!
I know this video came out a while ago now. I ended up upgrading my extruder and tube right as I was assembling the unit. The extruder that was sent to me looks identical to the one you are using and the link that I followed but the tube coupler is not threaded you push the tube holder into the extruder then push the tube into the extruder like normal but without the brass bit. Have you ever had experience with that type of extruder. My next upgrade is cooling Any project that I’ve been doing looks better when facing the right side towards the fan
My personal favorite and a nice drop-in replacement is the all-metal Micro Swiss hotend. I've done several videos on it here. Here's a product link: amzn.to/3dYkndP
great video as usual , I will be trying a couple of these upgrades. Would love to see you make a video on calibrating the E steps on the Ender 5 plus. I haven't found a single video online and mine doesn't seem to have the options in the screen menu for adjustment that my Ender 3 pro has.
You're a huge help Kris, I'm running BTT SKR 3 with TFT35 on my ender 5 plus through your videos, just started from 0 about a year ago. What are your thoughts on cooling in 2023 for this printer?
@@kerseyfabs Hah, just watched your new video. I have exoslides as well, so might be going that route. From one engineer to another, can't thank you enough.
Finally a YT thats real world, You woulnt jsut start throwing mney out to fix your Car with out finding out the exact problem thats stupid, I was lookin into direct drive in aside from soft plastic in speed no said anything about quality
I've ordered the PALM anti-backlash nuts, but I'm thinking about it and it seems like it would be better for these nuts to work WITH gravity and push the bed down. Unfortunately, there isn't room on the lead screws above the bed. Have you ever seen or heard of anti- backlash nuts that can pull rather than push?
Man I need some help!! My hot end keeps colliding with my hot bed! I’m trying to Re-level and the bed is ramming my hot end and I can’t get it to stop. My printer is only a few months old maybe 60hours on it. I can’t find any help.
where can I find that cooler mount for the dual fans that fits with the BL touch on the ender 5 plus? I like that setup and bought all the parts / fans etc to replicate this, but I can't find the files for that mount anywhere. the bantamount site seems like it's not really kept up with anymore?
You seem to be the RU-vid ender 5 plus pro. I got one about 6 months ago and didn’t take to long to get the z home and start printing. I’ve had 80% success rate with just the glass bed no hair spray or glue stix. I’ve used 7kg + off filament and about a week ago everything stopped sticking I’ve used hairspray for a week now and it no longer holds a print, they start good the lettering on the bottom of my benchys are crisp and clear. Has the glass already worn out? is there a aftermarket flexible mag bed that will fit the large print area?
Have you tried to simply take the bed and clean it with dish soap and hot water on the smooth side and try that? That's what I used. I also love Vision Miner Nano Polymer Adhesive. If you're looking for a flex sheet, I think TH3D sells a complete kit.
1) It's only 2 screws to remove the fan assembly, so it's not a big deal. 2) It was easier to film with the shroud removed because I didn't have to have multiple camera angles.
Just upgraded to the Hero Me 5015 dual duct. Best thing (and first mod) I've done and worked well once installed. Think I've got to dial in the z-offset just a bit but otherwise I'm happy with it. Thank you very much for your detail in covering it in this video. This definitely helped me give this one a go! Regarding the z-offset, any tips on getting that dialed back in?
Thank you for the feedback! It's really good to hear you're happy with the results. On the Z-offset, here's what I've found (your milage may vary): 1. From the leveling screen, adjust the Z-offset to one tighter than you think it should be. 2. Print a test print from SD with a relatively wide base and plenty of skirt or brim lines. 3. While that first layer is going down, adjust your Z-offset from the menu to get it just right. It should be flattened but not too thin. I hope this helps.
The Ender 5 Plus can be tuned and upgraded to be a very precise machine thanks to it's frame. Out of the box, it's a good printer but it's not as good as it can be. Also, quality and precision is very relative to expectations, so I'm careful not to over-promise here.
Hate to be that guy but I think the high temp claims of capricorn is a lie.. i've had them still melt and cause jams printing at 230C with petg same as with regular ptfe tubes. Using an all metal hotend makes this a non-issue.
I didn't change the screw, only the nut. It would have been difficult to find a particular flaw from print to print to demonstrate any improvement. I was more worried about some mechanical issues or the odd print quality issue.
The BLtouch is realy not so close, How can i change the location info in the firmware, Also ik you install the new extruder cooler the X length is not fully usable, how to correct this
It depends on which firmware you're running. If you're running the stock or silent board with 1.x firmware, check Configuration.h: #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -45 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle] #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -7 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle] #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -3 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle] If you're running 2.x firmware, no need to recompile: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html
My rough estimate is about $70. It's variable though depending on which components you may already have around. For example, the fans a link to come in a pack of five but you don't need all five for this project. Also the nozzles vary in price depending on which one you choose.
Thank you again for this wonderful video. Question with the firmware. I just purchased the 1.4 turbo, TFT35 V3.0 screen and i just installed a dual gear extruder and almost everything is stock. can i still use your BIN firmware to flash and install the new marlin? i dont have any knowledge on doing all that stuff. also, do you have a file for that screen cover that you use for the new screen?? thank you so much.
Upgrade 5, fastener list would be helpful, plus print orientation you used (I read the remarks at URL, but would like to know your selected build orientations)
I realize that since publication, the Hero Me Gen3 has been removed. I'm working to republish it for the Ender 5 and Plus and will post information when it's available.
In the Gen4 replacement files, it also appears here is an interference between left duct 5015 and the BT mount.. two pieces trying to occupy same space. I look forward to a dual 5015 complete solution, and thanks for your in-depth research. As to the delrin anti-backlash nut, that would help most if z-hop is enabled, but the real deficiency in the Ender 4 and Ender 5 is the rod slide, a MGN7 would be so much stiffer.
